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When charging ev car cannot use micro wave

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Thai son's buddy (qualified electircian) now claims that when you charge your EV car using a basic household electrical outlet you cannot use your microwave oven, could cause your m'wave oven to explode.

Question to our electrical engineers, Is this correct?

If they are off the same circuit then certainly it could cause the breaker in your fuse board to trip due to overload. And of course the microwave will not like depressed voltage at all,

Edited by JAS21

Question to whomever qualified that idiot as an electrician ...

... are you nuts ?

I wish I could use the microwave from the car, while the car was charging. An outlet would be nice.

"Honey, can we get the RD6 ? "

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  • Popular Post

If an EV charger and microwave oven are on same circuit (i.e., same set of house wiring and circuit breaker) it "could" overload that circuit and caused wiring to fail and/or circuit breaker tripping. Or, for a while, until the circuit fails it could cause the voltage on that circuit to be dragged down that creates a brown-out condition where the typical/approx 220 volts drops down to say around 170V which could be out of the safe operating voltage for any electrical item plugged into that circuit.

When "any electrical item" (doesn't matter if it's an microwave or whatever) is forced to operate outside of its designed input voltage/power rating strange things can happen to include "damage" to the item such as "it trying to operate at a lower than designed voltage which causes it to damage itself."

Example: This can routinely happen to home water pumps during brownouts (says PEA/MEA voltage drops to 170V or lower) and the pump begins to just run & run trying to build-up the required water pressure for its pressure switch to turn off pump power but what happens is the pump can't reach the required speed to generate enough water pressure to turn itself off and then the pump overheats until a built-in auto reset circuit breaker (built right into the pump motor itself) turns the pump off for 30 minutes to an hour until it cools off to a safe temp.....then the auto breaker resets, the pumps starts running again and if the input voltage is still low the overheating cycle repeats. Maybe repeats so many times if no one is home to notice the problem until the pump damages itself....won't turn on again as the motor burnt out.

A typical microwave oven will draw around 8 to 10A while cooking.....a 7KW EV wall charger will draw approx 32A while charging....that adds up to around 40A on that circuit assuming there are no other electrical items also using the circuit like lights, TV, fans, kitchen appliances, etc....etc...etc. A typical "granny" EV charger draws around 8 to 10A.

Typical household circuits use wires/circuits made to handle a maximum of around 16 to 20A and use 1.5mm2 to 2.5mm2 wiring between the resident consumer panel and the outlet. Amperage draw above that 16-20A has now entered the danger zone, circuit breaker tripping, possibly even causing voltage sag throughout the house, etc.)

EV wall chargers (excluding granny chargers) like a 7KW wall charger draws up to 32A and require a dedicated 40A (forty) circuit which uses a 40A circuit breaker and 10mm2 wiring between the resident consumer panel and the charger.

I expect your qualified technician has probably placed your charger on a circuit that other electrical items also uses like you microwave, lights, refrigerator, etc....etc...etc.....this can causes overloading on that circuit and "not-so-nice" issues as talked above.

Maybe the tech did this because upgrading the wiring would be costly, maybe the tech did it because of the "lax electrical safety attitude" common in Thailand".....that is, as long as the circuit breaker don't trip too many times and there is no smell of burnt wiring its all OK-fine.

18 hours ago, Pib said:

If an EV charger and microwave oven are on same circuit (i.e., same set of house wiring and circuit breaker) it "could" overload that circuit and caused wiring to fail and/or circuit breaker tripping. Or, for a while, until the circuit fails it could cause the voltage on that circuit to be dragged down that creates a brown-out condition where the typical/approx 220 volts drops down to say around 170V which could be out of the safe operating voltage for any electrical item plugged into that circuit.

When "any electrical item" (doesn't matter if it's an microwave or whatever) is forced to operate outside of its designed input voltage/power rating strange things can happen to include "damage" to the item such as "it trying to operate at a lower than designed voltage which causes it to damage itself."

Example: This can routinely happen to home water pumps during brownouts (says PEA/MEA voltage drops to 170V or lower) and the pump begins to just run & run trying to build-up the required water pressure for its pressure switch to turn off pump power but what happens is the pump can't reach the required speed to generate enough water pressure to turn itself off and then the pump overheats until a built-in auto reset circuit breaker (built right into the pump motor itself) turns the pump off for 30 minutes to an hour until it cools off to a safe temp.....then the auto breaker resets, the pumps starts running again and if the input voltage is still low the overheating cycle repeats. Maybe repeats so many times if no one is home to notice the problem until the pump damages itself....won't turn on again as the motor burnt out.

A typical microwave oven will draw around 8 to 10A while cooking.....a 7KW EV wall charger will draw approx 32A while charging....that adds up to around 40A on that circuit assuming there are no other electrical items also using the circuit like lights, TV, fans, kitchen appliances, etc....etc...etc. A typical "granny" EV charger draws around 8 to 10A.

Typical household circuits use wires/circuits made to handle a maximum of around 16 to 20A and use 1.5mm2 to 2.5mm2 wiring between the resident consumer panel and the outlet. Amperage draw above that 16-20A has now entered the danger zone, circuit breaker tripping, possibly even causing voltage sag throughout the house, etc.)

EV wall chargers (excluding granny chargers) like a 7KW wall charger draws up to 32A and require a dedicated 40A (forty) circuit which uses a 40A circuit breaker and 10mm2 wiring between the resident consumer panel and the charger.

I expect your qualified technician has probably placed your charger on a circuit that other electrical items also uses like you microwave, lights, refrigerator, etc....etc...etc.....this can causes overloading on that circuit and "not-so-nice" issues as talked above.

Maybe the tech did this because upgrading the wiring would be costly, maybe the tech did it because of the "lax electrical safety attitude" common in Thailand".....that is, as long as the circuit breaker don't trip too many times and there is no smell of burnt wiring its all OK-fine.

Yes… you expanded on my four lines, And explained in depth.tks microwaves certainly don’t like low-voltage.

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Just been through this myself with a 30,000 BTU non-inverter air conditioner, and bought a voltmeter — just a simple device you plug into a socket anywhere around the house.

A sensible first step is to check your voltage while the EV is charging, then turn on other heavy loads such as a water pump, microwave, kettle, or water heater. That will quickly show whether the supply is stable, or whether the voltage drops too much under load.

The risks are overheated wiring, hot plugs, overloaded sockets, tripped breakers, or, in a poor installation, fire.

An EV charger should be on its own proper circuit, with the correct cable size, breaker, earthing, RCD/RCBO protection, and a good quality socket.

When we installed our solar system, I also installed a voltage regulator to protect the equipment and to see what the supply was actually doing. PEA was delivering anywhere from about 198 V down to 153 V, depending on what we were consuming at the time. It also gives a real-time amp reading.

Btw, we also upgraded the lines to our house from 35 mm² aluminium cables to 50 mm² aluminium, and it improved our voltage stability.

Edited by Hummin

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