Broken Water Pipe

[chang35baht]

I am pretty sure that we have a cracked water pipe somewhere between the water pump and the house. Unfortunately it`s all under concrete. I think this because the pump will run all the time if I ramp the pressure switch up to full, it will never cut off. If I turn the pressure switch down to a lower setting it wil cut off but wil still come back on for around 10 seconds, go of, then come back on again about 10 seconds later. The sequence continues. The times vary according to where I set the pressure switch.

If I am correct and this is caused by a cracked pipe, Is there a method whereby I can: A) detect distance from pump to crack Or is there some sort of solution that is available to pour into your pipes to mend any cracks like you would do with a car radiator? (I know the 2nd questionis a long shot. thought I`d ask anyway even at the risk of sounding stupid

Obviously I don,t want to dig up all of the concrete on the pipes route to the house.

Any suggestions humorous or otherwise would be gratefully accepted.

Thanks.

C35b

[Naam]

unfortunately tricks like "radiator sealant" do not work unless you are willing to block all your taps and water heaters.

how many entry points do you have leading into the house? normally there are more than one as the bathrooms are separately connected. try to dig at these entry points first, i assume they are not covered by concrete. if the leak is between entry points and pump it might be easier to lay a new pipe than digging up concrete although you have to cut a slot in the concrete for the new pipe.

[jackr]

The pump could be cavitating (air in the system) and may need priming. Switch off power > close feed to pump > drain excess water from system by turning on tap in house > remove drain plug from pump > open up water supply from tank to pump so that water flows out of drain thus removing air pockets > turn off tap > screw plug back in > turn on. If still the same, close off the pumped circuit to the house and run on mains only. If there is still zero pressure (making sure there is adequate mains pressure) coming through, then you may indeed have a leak.

[cmsally]

Once you have checked the pump which could be the problem - do you have any valves in place, so you can section off the pipe that goes from pump to house. If you don't have valves it is very difficult to check where the leak is.

Biggest offenders are the toilet tanks with water leaking out of the tank so they constantly have to refill.

Once you have satisfied yourself that it is the section of pipe you first mentioned, then you will have to dig up the concrete and the best place to start is where the pipe joints are. You rarely get cracked pipes , it is more likely a join has come loose.

[p_brownstone]

I’m not sure where you live in Thailand but many parts of the Country – Bangkok in particular – are subject to land subsidence; if you have pipes running under concrete Patios or a Car Port etc. you will eventually have leaks as the concrete sinks with the land it is on and the pipes are pushed downwards.

I had similar problems and the only way to truly solve it for now and the future is to lay a completely new pipe system running above ground, disconnecting the old underground network and leaving it where it is.

Patrick

[chang35baht]

Thanks for all the replies(no wisecracks, I`m disappointed).

Unortunately, I bought the house ready built (8 years old) and the builders never put in any valves to isolate anywhere.

Even the entry points to the house are under concrete Naam/Sally so I may have to install a new pipe and connect it to the ground floor toilet pipe and see if that goes directly up to the ist floor toilet somehow without feeding it back into the existing pipe. Though I fear that may be difficult if not impossible. So it may be new pipes all the way, as per Mr Brownstones sugestion BAH!!

Our Kitchen is a separate outhouse so easier to re-pipe.

Jack, thanks, but I`ve already re-primed the pump. I knew how to do that.

Thanks again all

C35b

[chownah]

could be a leaky check valve at the pump....the one that should be keeping the pressure from bleeding back into the supply line that supplies the pump.

[lopburi3]

Most often leaks are the toilet filling higher than the center overflow pipe (due to sand in rubber valve at input). Look to make sure all stay below. Sometimes very hard to see and may have to lower water level to be sure.

I have changed to exterior pipes everywhere in our house. Only took one day to do five bath house so not hard or expensive (did not do kitchen but that would not take more than a day if and when required).

[Guest mascot]

Has your water consumption increased as this will indicate leakage although it does not take much to make thye pump cut in.

Your relief valve could be stuffed or the pump worn and allowing water to leak back.

But if you live bkk it probably is a cracked pipe caused by subsidance and will be close to where it enters the house b ut outside. It might look nice to have the pipes hidden but above ground is more sensible. Before you start digging, make sur it is not the pump or one of the garden taps.

[sometime]

Has your water consumption increased as this will indicate leakage although it does not take much to make thye pump cut in.

Your relief valve could be stuffed or the pump worn and allowing water to leak back.

But if you live bkk it probably is a cracked pipe caused by subsidance and will be close to where it enters the house b ut outside. It might look nice to have the pipes hidden but above ground is more sensible. Before you start digging, make sur it is not the pump or one of the garden taps.

I thought had the same problem with my pump running and the water in the tank getting lower, seeing that I had recently bought the house I was not to sure where the pipe work ran.

It turned out that the adjacent land that had just been sold had a stand pipe connected to my system; luckily the pipes only ran under the grass, so it was out with the spade and hacksaw, and a stop end did the trick.