Modified Pickup's

[ALFREDO]

Where would I have to go if I want to push the power of my old boy 2003 Ranger 2,5 l a bit.

And how long does it take to finish the work, cost?

Thanks, Alfred

[Bpraim1]

I'm running a slightly tuned Navara, never dynoed but pulls hard.

Plug N Play ECU jump, with common rail washer for higher rail pressure, before limp mode.

Boost Fooler

Mod airbox

Mod exhaust

[philipm]

Bpraim1,

what plug and play are you using????

you get an engine check light?

that is not right... i believe you are using a commonrail presure unit,

they cause alot of engine check lights when tuned to high.

we have a new unit DMS piggyback, DMS boost cut, DMS FIC-fuel injection controller, this setup on STD TURBO on 3L vigo,

163hp stock, it got dynoed at 230HP!!!!!!

with this special DMS package it will give you between 50-70HP!

did you go for lightbox????

[Bpraim1]

I'm useing a box from TDC Tech, CRPlus,

I have also added another washer at the end of my commonrail to get rid of the fail safe limp mode. This is loctated in the pressure control valve.

I also used a 8k ohm restistor on my intercooler pressure control to tweak out some etra boost.

Airbox mods are my own doing along with my exhaust.

Other then that is all stock. Daily driver.

[philipm]

not bad not bad,

so u want to do more mods?

[Bpraim1]

Nope! Thanks, pulls good enough for me.

I used to own a diesel mod shop in Canada, those days are over, I like daily drivers, no trouble shooting, or spending huge lumps for small gains.

I have enough power now to get myself in all kinds of trouble,

Plus the old Automatic will not take anymore, Warranty is a nice thing.

But glad to hear someone here is playing hard.

Drive fast, Take chances.

[philipm]

thanks no problem

the gear should handle close to 270hp no probs.

[philipm]

Gents,

Special promotion,

Diesel commonrail Extream piggyback kits,

45hp-55hp 150nm std kit

55-80hp 170-230nm monster kit

SPECIAL PRICE

send me a pm if you want to get more power out of your truck.

100% free tuning 2yr, 2yr warrenty on the product.

application:

Toyota Hilux(vigo)/Fortuner (2.5 and 3L diesel)

Mitsubishi Triton/ Pajero (new generation) (2.5-3.2L diesel)

Nissan Navara (2.5L 144hp and 174hp verison diesel)

Isuzu Dmax/Mu7 (2.5L- 3L diesel)

Chevrolet Colorado (2.5L-3L ---same engine as the isuzu dmax)

Ford Bt50 (2.5L-3L diesel)

[Bpraim1]

Why don't you smack a propane injection kit on your diesel, then you will never have to worry about someone beating you on the dyno.

Works beautifully on Diesel engines, Much like NOS on a Gas pot.

They have been using them for years in Canada/ America.

I had one on my cummins before I moved here.

Can see why it wouldn't work on these smaller lt pots.

[RRL]

Hi Philip,

That's some impressive power from your triton! Congrats!

How much boost are you running? And is this done on diesel alone?

Thanks

Ryan

[thaicbr]

Where would I have to go if I want to push the power of my old boy 2003 Ranger 2,5 l a bit.

And how long does it take to finish the work, cost?

Thanks, Alfred

I notice no one has answered poor old Alfreds question above.

I would also like to know if a standard non turbo, non commonrail diesel engine can be modified for any extra gains.

Also as the rear diff is on the high side (lots of revs for a given speed) can it be replaced for a different ratio. If so which one from what model etc.

Thanks in advance.

Allan

[Bpraim1]

I believe you will need to change your fuel plate, or just bump it ahead to the limit.

Though I am not to sure about this engines fuel pump.

As for the rear diff ratio, you can try in North Rangsit along thw Hwy to WangNoi. I have seen some used Fored parts in there.

[RRL]

I'm useing a box from TDC Tech, CRPlus,

I have also added another washer at the end of my commonrail to get rid of the fail safe limp mode. This is loctated in the pressure control valve.

I also used a 8k ohm restistor on my intercooler pressure control to tweak out some etra boost.

Airbox mods are my own doing along with my exhaust.

Other then that is all stock. Daily driver.

Hi Bpraim1

I am thinking of adding the 8k ohm resistor to up the boost in my navara also how much boost are you hitting now?

And also what happens when you hit the limp mode in the navara with too high pressure?

Thanks!

[thaicbr]

Thanks Bpraim

[peterd1961]

Hi guy's,

Do anyone of you have experience with dte chiptuning????

Edited August 26, 2009 by peterd1961

[Bpraim1]

I'm useing a box from TDC Tech, CRPlus,

I have also added another washer at the end of my commonrail to get rid of the fail safe limp mode. This is loctated in the pressure control valve.

I also used a 8k ohm restistor on my intercooler pressure control to tweak out some etra boost.

Airbox mods are my own doing along with my exhaust.

Other then that is all stock. Daily driver.

Hi Bpraim1

I am thinking of adding the 8k ohm resistor to up the boost in my navara also how much boost are you hitting now?

And also what happens when you hit the limp mode in the navara with too high pressure?

Thanks!

Sorry I can't tell you what kind of boost improvements the resister has made, but seems to hit harder in the lower to midrange.

I have only gone into limp mode once, and that was my own doing, as I was showing a friend the different setting and dialed the chip to the max! Then from a stand still, stomped it. What happened??

Tired screamed, Black smoke poured then changed to blue and turbo spooled up.(IE Blue is result of under fueling)

This is a direct problem with not modding or replaceing my injectors or Adding a piggy back system such as..PDI from DTE.

As for what happens, Yellow engine light with turn on, Complete loss of power. Just pull to side of road and turn truck off and restart. Better yet while truck is turned off TURN DOWN you chip if possible.

Adding a washing just allows for higher commonrail pressure.

I think if I was to buy a chip again, I would just go with a PDI.

[RRL]

I think i had that problem happen to me once. But its kinda weird i am also using a chip which attaches to the rail pressure sensor and i let my friend drive it. I think he over rev'd the 1st gear tires spun too much and then sudden loss of power after that. Check engine light didnt come on we just turned the engine off and on again and everything seemed normal again.

Didn't you notice gains in the higher RPM band with the 8kohm resistor?

How about the DTI? Do you think this would be able to support a bigger turbo running higher boost levels? Is this tunable?

Edited August 26, 2009 by RRL

[esprit]

Phil,

pm'd you to see if you can breath life into a MB Vito 115 CDI !!

[lannarebirth]

Maybe this is a silly question but why would someone lower a 4WD truck? Especially a Chev/Isuzu which doesn't have that much ground clearance to begin with. Thanks

[philipm]

"Hi Philip,

That's some impressive power from your triton! Congrats!

How much boost are you running? And is this done on diesel alone?"""

yes it ran only on normal diesel,

I just dynoed again last week for more recent update,

325HP 725NM of torque! 41psi, holset turbocharger (high cfm flow based on high boost) diesel turbo.

I took the title of TORQUE KING

--currently thailands most torque produced from a four cilinder turbo diesel.

regarding modification for older diesels, if it is not a commonrail, then the following will need

to modify the fuel pump directly, and then you will need to opt for a bigger turbo. to help control the air to fuel ratio, which if you run to rich,

will causes high egts and will start melting your pistions etc, that is why we always have to add more forced air for the more fuel we increase.

to avoide running to rich.

if you have a commonrail generation, there is always a piggyback upgrade for it,

which will grant you with significant power and torque gains! generally speakin there are different types of piggybacks and different power packages,

so you have to be relastic, and say i want this much gain, and with this gain, what needs to be done.

you can ofcourse opt for a larger turbokit also with the commonrails, but ofcourse you will need atleast a piggyback to run it.

as for the chevy, some people like lowered trucks for better center of gravity, better steering response and better highspeed stability.

not all tastes are alike, we ofcourse modify according to the customers desires and wants. To that point, the 4x4 truck, has atleast the 4wd option,

which is excellent when concidering the amount of torque and hp these trucks are making, and if you dare drive them in the wet or in the rain,

i am sure you would thank god for the 4wd with the available tracation.

ofcourse rwd is always going to be lighter etc, but when it comes to streetability everyday, 4wd would be more "sabai" on local terrians,

considering frequent heavy rains here.

Edited August 26, 2009 by philipm

[RRL]

impressive numbers,

Can you share your dyno chart and video of the run?

How does it feel on the street does the power come in too late?

How is the power in first gear? How much boost do you reach in first and 2nd gears?

[philipm]

"impressive numbers,

Can you share your dyno chart and video of the run?

How does it feel on the street does the power come in too late?

How is the power in first gear? How much boost do you reach in first and 2nd gears?"

Thank you,

sure i will upload the video of the dyno run, i just need some time to shrink the video slightly, its way to big,

on the street, to be honest with this holset turbo, the turbo boost really kicks in at 2300-2400rpms,

which is great for me, because i am making so much torque, i really dont need much boost with over 400nm of torque

at 1500rpms it can travel where ever with ease, i never have to rev it.

the fact boost comes a bit late i like, because only when i want to give it hard throttle it will just go! no downgear nessary,

and ofcourse its safer for me not to have high boost in low rpms in bangkok traffic haha....

power in 1stgear i think there is to much to notice, its over always in a flash, ending up with finshing tailing on smooth roads on the higher rpms, and ofcourse as soon as i throw it in 2nd gear, the truck just fishtails for a 2 or 3 seconds, so i am counter steering the power and torque to keep it going stright frankly, after that traction kicks in, then hit in 3rd gear powerful wheel spin,

4th gear traction is on, boost is blowing to 40psi heavy torque kicks in, 5th gear feels like just 1st, when boost is on, very easy to accelerate or deacclereate, it takes minimum effort to get up to 180., after 180 i have to give it some diesel (applying the throttle full)

to get to 203+

boost 1st gear, very quick probably 5psi with no load, 2nd gear up to 30psi, 3rd 35-38psi, 4th 38-42, 5th 38-45psi. (i turn down the boost to 41psi, instead of 45psi, for slightly quicker response).

[RRL]

Thanks for the detailed description of how it feels on the street.

I'm personally not a fan of hitting high torque at very low RPM so your truck seems to be right on with what i am want haha. Do you have a hard time feathering the throttle to control wheels spin? I think its pretty dangerous for people to drive your truck if they are not used to the torque coming in. Congratulations on your achievement!

[philipm]

hey RRL,

when starting from idel or in traffic, i have to feather the throttle to get of the line without wheelspin,

if i build up the rpms and let the clutch go it will just wheel spin, so i have to feather the throttle,

it is easy to spin out in my truck in the rain esspecially in the rain, so thankfully i have 4wd to help out in those situations where i feel like planting my foot in the rain.

and yes it is dangerous for those who are not expecting it with how the torque comes on.

[RRL]

Now that sounds real fun to drive! In your case bigger is lways better. I wonder how much the 2.5 navara engine can make?

[philipm]

the 2.5navara, with all nessary mods

i am sure i can take it up to 300hp and perhaps even higher

it really depends on thick the wallet is.

i know i can achieve 330hp with it, but it will require also boring out the

the piston walls and getting oversize pistons. and also pump modifications,

which are the two mods i have yet to do.

i am just setting up the compound turbo kit (two turbos)

and see how it will run. most likely i will being doing the pump mod at that time,

and will wait untill i have to open the head will i concider doing the piston mods.

i am trying to achieve 400-420hp lets see how the std pistons will hold up haha.

the tuning and low egt concept should make it a really performer with the compound turbo setup,

after i have completed the kit and dynoed and test the kit, will i putting it up similar

kits up, for those who really want to stand out. and make serious power. haha

Edited September 1, 2009 by philipm

[philipm]

here is the dyno video....enjoy

325HP 725NM of torque, my monster triton.

offically not only most powerful 3.2 4m41 in the world,

but has also now taken Torque King title in thailand,

for the most torque generated by a four cylinder turbo diesel.

Edited September 4, 2009 by philipm

[IslandLux22]

Hilux this is the 2wheel drive model, 4x4 models are very strong and a better base to work with even.

I need better braking on my vigo 3.0l 4x4. Still have the stock wheels (15 inch), any suggestions...Keep in mind that I live uphill and I have to drive down everyday, since my toy has an automatic Trans. the brakes have a tendency to fade if I get to "enthusiastic" on the way down!

Keep up the good work!!!

[philipm]

hey mate,

for 15" rims, (i assume you dont want to go slightly bigger 16-18"?)

15" is highly limited to what we can do with the brakes.

as we will not be able to even fit the rear converison disk brake kit.

and the front brake calipers are just right for the 15"rims in terms of clearence,

so your only suitable option will be changing to slotted front brake rotors. and going for better brake pads,

either one of the brakes pads are good, Bendix metal king, Runstop Cermaic brake pads and better then both is

EBC i believe the "yellow stuff" -model name is suitable for higher temp with better braking feel, less brake fade.

what i do for all automatics, anything i drive i always downshift when breaking, use the autogear and shift to 2-1 or even D with OD off, depending on your speed. it helps tremendously in slowing down the car/truck, sometimes you wont even need to use the brakes when you just pop it into a lower gear.

for a manual you need to blip the throttle before you downgear. auto just shift. (please dont go 120 and put it in 1st----thats just stupid).

you need to monitor what speed each gear reachs to without touching redline, and then do it according to that.

for example on the triton,

it has 4 gears for the automatic verison each gear goes upto 50km, at redline.

1st-50 2nd-100 3(D)-150 4(OD)-200.

so if i am at lets say 85km/hr (if i was in D i would be running on OverDrive gear-topgear).

if i need to slow down, i will shift it to 2nd gear. it will help alot.

same thing if you are going 130km/hr, you will shift to D with OD switched OFF. (3rd gear in essence)

try that with your current vigo with your brakes, and see how it goes.

i would advise you to go atleast 16" rims so you can fit better calipers, rotors, and rear converison kit.

[philipm]

an update on some other trucks and cars.