Penang: Good Place To Live?

[chickencurry]

curious as to your costs, ( food,rent,eating out) compared to Phuket

To obtain the visa what did u need to show>

good luck selling the home here. seems phuket has a glut of condos/homes and they continue to build

Sold mine in 2009 and am sooo glad

I cannot compare rent as I wasn't renting in Phuket and, in any case, depends how big the unit, what condition, how old, and location. Food in supermarkets and markets comparable with Phuket pricewise. Locally grown produce from the Highlands quite cheap. Beer is more expensive in Penang though there is a black market supply if you know where to go I am told (Langkawi island which has duty free status is just up the road of course.) Wine prices in supermarkets are similar to Phuket, but they do tend to bump up the price in restaurants. Eating out is I guess about the same but, like Singapore, you can pay anything really. You can pay top dollar at some glitzy eateries in Straits Quay if you're inclined. We tend to eat in foodcourts mainly where you'll pay equiv 35 to 50 baht for a plateful. One other indoor eatery we go to (and with aircon) Laotian Laksa is equiv 130 baht, western pasta dishes and sausage dishes around equiv 160 baht. The Thai restaurants look a bit strange to me - I think they are all Pattani Thai. Yet to try them out. Petrol is currently half the price of what we pay in Thailand. Petrol is subsidised.

I would say that total costs overall are probably comparable to Phuket. Some things more, some things less. Very very nice to have power on full time - no powercuts or brownouts

Getting the visa is a VERY big subject. The Thai one year retirement visa is of course very easy. MM2H needs a lot of reading up and they twiddle with the rules from time to time. There's a government website all about it. Cannot remember the URL but it's easy to find if you google. There's also an independent forum www.my2home.info which is run as a hobby by a British MM2Her and I got a load of useful info from that website if anyone is interested. There's a lot you have to currently do. Put down deposits in bank, get medical insurance (though they will accept a rejection letter from any insurance company), bank statements, basic medical test (if you're breathing, you pass), forms to fill in, Letter of Good Conduct from the police (got mine from Bangkok even though I'd only lived in Thailand a couple of years). Yes there's a few hoops to jump through and some may not wish to go through it, but at the end of the day you get a lifetime visa renewable every 10 years. We're happy anyway, or at least we would be if we could flog this house in Phuket

[Louie77]

If you're interested in renting a house, I recommend driving around in neighborhoods you like and ask around. Always lots of places available. Much cheaper than through a real estate agent.

We paid 950RM for a giant house (couldn't find a smaller one with a yard) in Tanjung Bungah. It took us about a week to find a nice place.

You will see signs with phone numbers on gates. Phone them all! The house we ended up renting varied from 950 to 1500 RM/month depending on the phone number! Just don't let them know, you know

[fajarini11]

I have not go to penang yet, But look like it is a good place to visit, couse my friend tell me a good story when she go there.

[PhoenixRising]

I have to agree with the last post. We lived in Penang (after Thailand) and it drove me crazy that I couldn't go anywhere on my own without being followed, having to listen to sexual remarks. It restricts your freedom (as a woman) and you have the feeling that you always have to watch your back. They don't think much of women, local or foreign.

People in Thailand stare, but they stare because I'm a foreigner. In Penang they stare for different reasons.

We enjoyed Penang in the beginning but I would advise everyone to spend some time there before moving permanently. We were both fed up with Thailand and the place made us appreciate Thailand again Go figure.

And don't underestimate the heat, there is no cool season.

We didn't live in Georgetown b.t.w. but on the other side of the island (before Batu Ferringhi). And I definitely agree: Georgetown feels like a ghost town!

The place has its own problems: the races don't get along, pollution (and yes, you can tell when they're burning in Indonesia), noise, I hated the traffic. In a nutshell: looking back I'd say it is similar to Thailand (with some differences of course) but without the sanook. We found it a rather stale place. I'll go back to Thailand on holidays but I don't think I'll ever go back to Malaysia.

But everyone has their own agenda, likes and dislikes.

I'll agree with most of this post! I've lived in Malaysia and spent quite a bit of time in Penang. At first,, it seems like a decent place, but you have to get on the inside of it all to know what Malaysia is all about. I had a lot of problems with racism and discrimination. Most places will not rent to foreigners because they are Muslim Malays who are extremely xenophobic and intolerant. They do not let people rent their homes who are not Muslims! If they do rent their homes to you, you have to be careful of many things. For example, if they promise to do something, you can't count on it, especially if you pay them upfront! And don't expect to get your deposit back as they will find ways to eat that up. Promises are usually broken!

Malaysians still have a serious hangover from the British colonization. They are ANGRY and they will find ways to take it out of you just because you are of the same race. I've never seen such a racist attitude anywhere in my life. For example, I walk into a bank where I have an account and the security stops me and yells, 'hey, you can't just walk in here! You have to go to information first! You can't just come in as you please, we have rules here that you have to follow.' Me: 'I need to talk to customer service. I have an account here. There's nobody at the information desk!' Him: 'so you have to wait in line.' A girl comes to the counter and asks me what I need and I tell her. She gives me 'special permission' to go see customer service. While I'm in there, the security did NOT stop anyone else from going in to see customer service! It's like this all the time in Malaysia. It's worth mentioning that it's usually the Indian males who have this ego trip and they have no respect whatsoever for women.

As an end note, I was attacked by an Indian man who nearly killed me. There were witnesses everywhere. We knew where he worked. When I called the police, they flatly refused to make any notes or ask my witnesses their names or information. The police would NOT help me, but demanded that I go to the police station to make a report! Penang does not have any safety measures in place and it's thee most dangerous place I have ever visited in my entire life.

Thailand, Malaysia, there is no comparison! Anywhere but Malaysia! The good Malays understand my point of view and they support me because they know what I'm saying is true as they've experienced much of the same as I have. The country is about to self destruct within my lifetime on account of their racist, sexist, xenophobic attitudes.

[jackers]

I am going to be in Penang for a few days next week before going to kuching for three weeks. I'm looking forward to seeing much less sex tourists and beer swelling chavs. Heard a lot about the racist attitudes of Malaysians but my initial thoughts are it's probably no worse than some of the racist attitudes on this forum,in England or many other places.

[Penefattore]

I'm looking forward to seeing much less sex tourists and beer swelling chavs.

if there are no sex tourists it means the place is dead boring.

[Penefattore]

'Lazy muslims,' 'greedy Chinese,' and 'dirty Indians' are phrases you hear in conversation almost daily.

I'm glad to hear the truth is openly spoken

[jackers]

I'm looking forward to seeing much less sex tourists and beer swelling chavs.

if there are no sex tourists it means the place is dead boring.

Not for me.

[thaifkrlim]

I have to agree with the last post. We lived in Penang (after Thailand) and it drove me crazy that I couldn't go anywhere on my own without being followed, having to listen to sexual remarks. It restricts your freedom (as a woman) and you have the feeling that you always have to watch your back. They don't think much of women, local or foreign.

People in Thailand stare, but they stare because I'm a foreigner. In Penang they stare for different reasons.

We enjoyed Penang in the beginning but I would advise everyone to spend some time there before moving permanently. We were both fed up with Thailand and the place made us appreciate Thailand again Go figure.

And don't underestimate the heat, there is no cool season.

We didn't live in Georgetown b.t.w. but on the other side of the island (before Batu Ferringhi). And I definitely agree: Georgetown feels like a ghost town!

The place has its own problems: the races don't get along, pollution (and yes, you can tell when they're burning in Indonesia), noise, I hated the traffic. In a nutshell: looking back I'd say it is similar to Thailand (with some differences of course) but without the sanook. We found it a rather stale place. I'll go back to Thailand on holidays but I don't think I'll ever go back to Malaysia.

But everyone has their own agenda, likes and dislikes.

I'll agree with most of this post! I've lived in Malaysia and spent quite a bit of time in Penang. At first,, it seems like a decent place, but you have to get on the inside of it all to know what Malaysia is all about. I had a lot of problems with racism and discrimination. Most places will not rent to foreigners because they are Muslim Malays who are extremely xenophobic and intolerant. They do not let people rent their homes who are not Muslims! If they do rent their homes to you, you have to be careful of many things. For example, if they promise to do something, you can't count on it, especially if you pay them upfront! And don't expect to get your deposit back as they will find ways to eat that up. Promises are usually broken!

Malaysians still have a serious hangover from the British colonization. They are ANGRY and they will find ways to take it out of you just because you are of the same race. I've never seen such a racist attitude anywhere in my life. For example, I walk into a bank where I have an account and the security stops me and yells, 'hey, you can't just walk in here! You have to go to information first! You can't just come in as you please, we have rules here that you have to follow.' Me: 'I need to talk to customer service. I have an account here. There's nobody at the information desk!' Him: 'so you have to wait in line.' A girl comes to the counter and asks me what I need and I tell her. She gives me 'special permission' to go see customer service. While I'm in there, the security did NOT stop anyone else from going in to see customer service! It's like this all the time in Malaysia. It's worth mentioning that it's usually the Indian males who have this ego trip and they have no respect whatsoever for women.

As an end note, I was attacked by an Indian man who nearly killed me. There were witnesses everywhere. We knew where he worked. When I called the police, they flatly refused to make any notes or ask my witnesses their names or information. The police would NOT help me, but demanded that I go to the police station to make a report! Penang does not have any safety measures in place and it's thee most dangerous place I have ever visited in my entire life.

Thailand, Malaysia, there is no comparison! Anywhere but Malaysia! The good Malays understand my point of view and they support me because they know what I'm saying is true as they've experienced much of the same as I have. The country is about to self destruct within my lifetime on account of their racist, sexist, xenophobic attitudes.

Thai muslims wont let their houses to foreigners too............you are right, in no particular region, usually indian males who are egoistic do not have respect for women. Attacking another indian is a reflex by the ego trip

[NALAK]

went for 3 days, 2 days to long, mates said i did not give it a chance. 2 days later they could not wait to come back. booze, nightlife not good. curries ok. thailand to a muslim country, one extreme to another.

[jaideeguy]

Come on JR....you started this post and haven't heard your trip report......or maybe I missed it. But it looks same same as LOS from the reports.....there is no perfect place anywhere, but I'll settle for 2nd best and after spending the last 12 yrs in LOS and at age 64 and reluctant to go thru another major life change, I am taking off tomorrow for a return trip to the Philippines, which I left in disgust at the culture, polution, corruption and lack of infrastructure. I'm hoping that either I'll return with a renewed appreciation for LOS or find that things have changed for the better in the Phil.

#1] they [mostly] speak English and you have the illusion that they understand......here there are no illusions.

I still have some good contacts there and may look around at the possibility of spending the hot summers in the highlands of Luzon @ 3,000mtrs elevation, the weather is much more comfortable.

I have heard some reports of high elevation settelments in Malaysia or was it Indonesia??....but my main goal is to beat the heat!!

FYI, there has been a long running thread on the S E Asia forum on 'alternatives to LOS' with some insitefull posts.

[anotheruser]

I am pretty sure JR has been banned a long time ago.

[thaifkrlim]

Malaysia has come a long way since gaining its independence from Great Britain. A recognized powerhouse in several industries including rubber, tin, palm oil, textiles, and consumer electronics, Malaysian’s flourished even through the Asian monetary crisis of 1997. The capital city of Kuala Lumpur displays the tallest buildings in the world, The Petronas Towers, as a symbol of Malaysia’s arrival as a modern economic world player.

A Variety Of Cultures

There are roughly 23 million Malaysians and they are an eclectic mix of widely varied cultures—58% are ethnic Malays or other indigenous peoples; about 30% are Chinese; 10% are Indian. All were subjects of the English Empire until 1957, and so English is widely spoken and colonial influences abound. The official language, Bahasa, is surprisingly easy to pick up. The alphabet is the same as English-speaking nations and pronounced exactly as the words are spelled. This was quite refreshing, as most languages in this part of the world are tonal and extremely difficult to learn. In Bahasa, if you can read it…you can probably pronounce it.

Malaysia is a predominantly Muslim country, and heavy Ramadan and holiday air traffic made it difficult to get the flights we wanted, so we opted for the overland route. Penang is a nine-hour drive on smooth black ribbons of well constructed highway from my home in Phuket, Thailand. We passed through the surreal landscape of Krabi, the sleepy southern Thai city of Trang, and the frenetic border town of Hat Yai. We reached the border about 9.30 p.m. and were lucky the Duty Free Shop had an outside ATM so that we could load up on the local currency—Malaysian Ringit (RM). Upon entering Malaysia the change is very apparent. Thailand is quite well equipped with infrastructure, but Malaysia takes it a step further. The conditions of the highways with their freshly painted lines and manicured landscape made me think I was in the U.S., not deep in the heart of Southeast Asia.

Our destination was Penang, a big island off the West Coast of northern Malaysia. To get there we had to cross the Penang Bridge, which must be several miles long and a marvel of modern architecture. I’m not sure if it’s a suspension bridge or not, but it looks like something right out of a sci-fi movie. We settled in to a cozy little Chinese hotel full of a thousand or so excited Chinese teenagers on holiday. So much for lounging quietly by the pool.

Stylish And Efficient

In the morning we met with the hotel manager, Mr. Tan, who courteously and efficiently collected our passports, had us sign the appropriate forms, and informed us that our visas would be ready at 2 p.m. that coming Friday. This is a service offered by many of the hotels in Penang, but I doubt many of them do it with as much style as Mr. Tan. He also informed us that we were very lucky to arrive when we did. Apparently the weekend was the beginning of a very important religious festival for Muslims in Malaysia—Hari Raya Puasa. Many people believe it to be “Muslim New Year,” but it actually signifies the end of the fasting month, Ramadan. After a month of self-restraint and abstinence, the Malaysian faithful were ready to celebrate. In fact, Hari Raya means “Days of Celebration.” Had we come two days later, we would have been stranded in Malaysia for a week with no way to get our visas—all government offices were closed for three days!

We spent the next day and a half exploring the sights, sounds, and most importantly, flavors of Penang. This little island city is a wonderful blend of Chinese, Indian, and Muslim culture. The architecture can change radically from Sino-Portuguese to Hindu Temple to Mosque all in the same city block. What stood out the most in Georgetown—the area of Penang where we were staying—were the Indian-style buildings. I fell in love with a particular color of blue that I will henceforth refer to as “Hindu Blue.” It is prevalent in almost all Indian-style structures and even in some Buddhist compounds.

I was also mesmerized by the mosaic of statues and sculptures that adorn the entrances to all Hindu temples. One could stand for hours and continue to see new deities and characters materialize every minute.

So Much To See…

Most interesting was M. Maha Mariamman Temple on Lebuh Queen. Built in 1833, it is the oldest Indian Temple in town and features 38 statues of gods and goddesses.

Equally impressive was the G. Kapitan Keling Mosque. This structure was founded by an Indian Muslim merchant in 1801 and stands proudly in the center of Georgetown with its regal Moorish architecture.

But, the big daddy of our self-coordinated sight-seeing tour was the Kek Lok Si Temple. The Kek Lok Si Temple remains the largest Buddhist temple complex in South East Asia. Upon entering the Ban Por Thar, or Ten Thousand Buddhas Pagoda, you are overwhelmed by the sheer size and scale of the inner room. Not to mention the 10,000 Buddhas!

Luck was with us once again as we arrived in time to witness afternoon prayers from all the apprentice monks living at Kek Lok Si. Perhaps 300 monks, both male and female, marched solemnly in single file to the beat of an ancient wooden bell calling them to prayer. They gathered in formation waiting for the Master to arrive and lead them in the afternoon prayers. If you’ve never seen a Buddhist ceremony of any kind, the rhythmic chanting and shear focus of the participants is a spiritual experience not to be missed.

We stomped around several buildings of this huge compound for hours. The entire complex is a clash of architectural styles including Burmese, Chinese, and Thai.

Perhaps one of the most endearing features of Kek Lok Si is the fact that if affords an excellent view of the city of Penang on one side, and the beautiful countryside on the other.

Have A Cold Beer On Standby

The rest of our time was filled with deciding on where to eat. Malaysian cuisine is like everything else in Malaysia…a mixture of many cultures. We had three meals that most would characterisse as Indian food, but always carried a South East Asian twist. The curries are a little sweeter than in Thailand, but with more fire than traditional Indian food. The flatbread called roti or naan is fresh from the Tandoori oven. And, KFC has nothing on Muslim fried chicken!

If you find yourself in Penang, I recommend taking a ride in a rickshaw down to “Indian Town” and picking the most crowded place you can find. You won’t need much money, but make sure you have a cold beer on standby at all times as it is hard to tell which dishes will set you on fire and which will not.

[dunkin2012]

Stylish And Efficient

the bus system is not efficient... my conclusion

when I was at a town, Melaka. I took a bus to the main bus station to get back 2 KL. It went 'round and 'round. Luckily, I calculated my extra time in case things go wrong for 'bout half hour It took me more than 30 mins to get from downtown to the bus station ,Sentral.

[bangkokburning]

If I did not have a girlfriend here in Thailand,I might very well be living in Malaysia.

I like:

Easy entry

Decent food

Good value

Respect for nature (that isn't tied to oil)

Stunning Chinese girls

If I had a ton of money, I'd score me a Chinese beauty in KL or on Penang and move out to a condo overlooking the water there. I have half dozen Chinese/Malay young women as FB friends, two are heart-stoppingly beautiful. I met them thru a Malay woman and she has a zillion more beautiful friends as well.

You can come up to the Andaman and island hop all winter in Thailand. Also have Sabah and Sarawak.

How long do you have to be in Thailand before a grubby bar with overpriced beer and cheap issarn hookers that insult you to save their own face gets a bit tiresome...? 2004 was the last year it mattered anyway, then came the attitudes, the crime, the dope....

[bangkokburning]

jaideeguy - if you want to beat the heat and live in sea buy an ac unit.

There is no where that is livable I am aware of that is elevated enough to cut the heat in the summer months dramatically. Maybe Baugio as for somewhere that MIGHT be liveable.

Have you thought of Himachal Pradesh India?? THAT works!