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CarlBkk

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My very great pleasure.

I have been enchanted by 2 channel since I bought my first reciever at age 15. Back then KLH speakers were about $100 each. A Dual 1019 or 1219 was a killer front end.

Those Bryston will run your speakers fine. 20 year warranty says it all. Built like tanks.

You don't really need to bridge them - 1 amp will run those speakers fine. If you want to seel one PM me.

If you need help to find a preamp PM me.

What front end are you running?

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I am running a Spectral DMC-12 preamp - but I am currently looking for something with a bit more "convenience" and have so far been able to locate a ATC SCA-2, which I can get a good deal on - but also looking at the Ayre... Anyone have info on any decent DAC's - as most "serious" preamps have neither SP/DIF (Coax) or Optical.

The ATC SCA-2 gets rave reviews - and actually comes with a remote, volume up / down... heh - and have been offered a mint - McIntosh C712 for 28K.

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By the way - once I got the AMPS - I sent them both to 4D to have them checked - which was done in 2 days (reason - they have hardly been used - and stocked up for a while). - But both passed their checkup - and a friend picked up 1 already, as my speakers don't support bi-wiring, and that in bridged mode the AMPS require impedances equal to or higher than 8 ohms, mine are 4... But all in all - the sound improved immensely (especially the bottom end tightened up), but I have found that I really like "dark/warm" midrange. The voice of Sarah Mclachlan is not as "full" as it was with the Yamaha DSP-Z7.

But I would appreciate some advice - going for a preamp.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Here is the end result : McIntosh MC252 - Marantz SR6003 - Oppo BDP83 SE - Dynaudio Contour 3.3 & Klipsch RT-10D,

thanks to everyone for advice. Now time for listening!!!

post-2747-1271347834_thumb.jpg

Edited by JackA
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Nice. How have you configured the wiring? Does your Marantz have pre out to bypass its power or are you using two amps (bi-amping) to drive the Contour?

I'm using the preout on the Marantz - with Townshend Isolda DCT300 cables (same kind of cables run to the Bluray).

As all Dynaudio only have single posts, it's not possible to biamp. - And running Isolda Speaker cables (with zobel netowrk)

to the McIntosh.

As the Marantz have the possibility to disable it's internal AMPS, it's working great as a Pre/Pro...

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The McIntosh Ltd blokes will have a heart attack! One of their beauties dumped on the TV cabinet?! Come on....let's go equipment stand shopping. Get yourself to hi-fi centre where the workmen copy some of the established brands for a fraction of the price.

I like the look of your sub. How does the system sound on tiled flooring though, or do you have a big rug to absorb the high frequencies?

Gis' a listen!

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The McIntosh Ltd blokes will have a heart attack! One of their beauties dumped on the TV cabinet?! Come on....let's go equipment stand shopping. Get yourself to hi-fi centre where the workmen copy some of the established brands for a fraction of the price.

I like the look of your sub. How does the system sound on tiled flooring though, or do you have a big rug to absorb the high frequencies?

Gis' a listen!

Well - I have ordered our local "furniture guy" to come and remove the tv cabinet - to make room for something better - and there's someone doing hifi furniture (KTT).

I have no rugs - but I think the hard tiled floors are least of my problems - the glass cabinets all around is a much bigger issue.

If you notice - my choice of components are all on the "neutral/warm" side and actually the system sounds quite good @ low volume, I've yet to "crank" it up, so consider my answer "incomplete". What you can't see is the opposing wall, which have windows as well, but everything is "curtained up" and beside a coffee table - there's leather furniture.

Well after having owned several subs, the Klipsch have been the easiest *for me* to integrate into my system - and the room correction works.

If any of you guys have an AVR, and considering getting a high quality transport, everything is not lost - you can bypass all the AVR processing by using the MCH (Front L / R) - this is the only real analog domain within your AVR - try it and notice the difference it makes.

(before plugging anything - check if there's any sensitivity differences between the inputs). By using the MCH - your AVR should basically work like an "attenuator" only - using any other input, the AVR will do D/A conversion (Even if pure mode is enabled).

Some higher end AVR's do bypass the internal DAC's (NAD / ARCAM) - but most don't. I believe that it's called (EXT IN).

Ok, now you guys can "rip me a new one"....

Edited by JackA
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Hey Jack, what's KTT? I'm looking for someone who makes hi-fi furniture (from wood) so pass on any info if you can.

I've just found a nice glass Stands Unique.com wall shelf on ebay that will look (and hopefully sound) quite nice with my Wadia, and save some space.

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Here is the end result : McIntosh MC252 - Marantz SR6003 - Oppo BDP83 SE - Dynaudio Contour 3.3 & Klipsch RT-10D,

thanks to everyone for advice. Now time for listening!!!

Looks like a wonderful combination. Im trying to imagine the sound. :) Congrads.

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