Is It The Router

[ignis]

Sorry if been asked before but cannot find anything... I AM NOT Wireless

Can anyone help or advise please

Bought a new Aztech DER600ER Router when my house was built in 2004, connected to True [only option] since then True have increased the speed many times.. I have built a new computer 3 times since then, gone from XP to Vista to Windows 7, never changed anything on the Router [if any problem just switched off Router and all appeared to re set itself] Added 2x DM boxes [internet TV]... Never had any issues with True or the connections.

Last week True upgraded the speed again to 6 MB, still for the same price as I paid for 512 connection back in 2004.. Now I appear to losses the signal constantly.... If it stays on long enough will do a speed test and shows just above 6 MB.. so my thinking is it is not True ?

It has now righted itself and working fine, but for how long ? not every day this happens, there again can happen many times in a day.. Latest was watching TV yesterday and it was on off all the time, switched on PC to try to fix re-enter true password, re boot modem, still constant on off, did do a speed test and again showed 6.2 MB.. It never worked again, this morning from 5am till 7:30 still the same, tried many things...... suddenly stayed on, and has not disconnected for an hour.

Can this problem be something to do with the Router ?

On Aztech website there dose not appear to be any driver download or upgrade on the DER600ER only for the 600EU wireless.

Do not know anything about Routers so have no idea if they can go wrong or maybe cannot handle 6mb ?

[lomatopo]

You should contact TRUE and have them test the line. Does your telephone work? They may have screwed up the physical line change, when they moved you to a new ADSL+2 line card port, and forgot about the voice splitter in the CO, or maybe the chipset in your modem is incompatible with the one in the new line card (although they should be backwards compatible, and that unit seems to be ADSL2+ capable). Maybe take a look at the management UI for your router to see the current stats, and maybe change try changing the DSL protocol to ADSL2+, or Auto.

Default IP address 192.168.1.1

Default admin username Admin

Default admin password Admin

I can't find a DER-600ER model from Aztech, only a DSL-600ER, are you sure of the model number?

There have been quite a few threads in the past ~ 4 weeks here re: TRUE connectivity issues.

I manage two TRUE lines and have not seen any problems; one with a 3COM router and one with a Linksys unit.

[ignis]

You should contact TRUE and have them test the line. Does your telephone work? They may have screwed up the physical line change, when they moved you to a new ADSL+2 line card port, and forgot about the voice splitter in the CO, or maybe the chipset in your modem is incompatible with the one in the new line card (although they should be backwards compatible, and that unit seems to be ADSL2+ capable). Maybe take a look at the management UI for your router to see the current stats, and maybe change try changing the DSL protocol to ADSL2+, or Auto.

Default IP address 192.168.1.1

Default admin username Admin

Default admin password Admin

I can't find a DER-600ER model from Aztech, only a DSL-600ER, are you sure of the model number?

There have been quite a few threads in the past ~ 4 weeks here re: TRUE connectivity issues.

I manage two TRUE lines and have not seen any problems; one with a 3COM router and one with a Linksys unit.

Yes DSL-600ER,

Talked to 2 different neighbours today as again at 8pm yesterday TV went out and Internet on off every 2 seconds, both have the same, one called True it would appear that somewhere it was raining = loss of internet........ strange never happened when we were all on 4 mg speed.

[Prasert]

Ignis,

the physical phone line has a certain capacity to transmit signals. Pushing 2Mbps through the phoneline can be easy: the equipment on both sides pick the best frequencies (called 'bins') for the 2Mbps.

Going up to 4Mbps means the equipment now needs double the amount of useable bins. And so on when the bandwidth increases.

Most routers tell you something about this with the SNR values, signal-to-noise-ratio. It's a relation between the noise on the line and the signal being sent through it.

Noise is always present and magnetic fields influence the amount of noise.

When the noise increases, for instance during rain, the SNR goes down. When it drops below a threshold, the router and DSLAM will drop the line and start re-negotiating a new speed (called training). This could take minutes and when the DSLAM is not configured for lower speeds, the signal will not be established until the noise decreases.

The solution: go back to a stable speed. Something your ISP has to do.

To confirm that this is actually happening:

measure the SNR values (upstream and downstream). And not once, but many times during the day. A single measurement does not give any insight, but multiple measurements during the day will.

[siamect]

When the noise increases, for instance during rain, the SNR goes down. When it drops below a threshold, the router and DSLAM will drop the line and start re-negotiating a new speed (called training). This could take minutes and when the DSLAM is not configured for lower speeds, the signal will not be established until the noise decreases.

Why would this take longer than it does the first time?

[MaiChai]

Can I resurrect this thread since its a similar problem to what I am experiencing. I have been using a Level1 ADSL2+ wifi router on True since about 2004. As the OP said, True keeps bumping up the speed, and what I find now is that anything that streams (radio/video) gets interrupted after about 7 mins. After doing some checking, it seems I get a new IP address on the Internet. According to the Level1 diags, the connection is being diconnected and reconnected as the 'connected to adsl' timer gets reset. So ADSL is disconnected, renegociated and connected, and a new IP is assigned which breaks my streaming.

Now if I plug in the crappy looking single port nlink router they gave us when we last moved, I don't get the diconnect/reconnect, and the ip address doesn't change.

Have checked level1 for a new firmware, and I have the latest. I have limited setting changes on the Level1, and the nlink does appear to have alot more control over the adsl link (and more diags).

The only thing I can guess is that the router was never really tested in earnest at current high adsl speeds (8Mb/s down and 600kb/s download) or maybe doesn't support features on the later generation adsl equipment (although the Level1 is adsl2+ compatible). Basically I think the router is being maxed out even though in theory it should work! The thing is my Level1 has 4 UTP ports while the nlink only has one, and I have a high gain antenna on the Level1 which gives me better wifi connectivity (guess I could move it to the nlink). Maybe its time to buy something up to date?

I must say I am becoming a fan of TP-Link equipment. Bought numerous TP-Link cards and use a TP-Link in the UK, and so far cannot fault them. The PCI wifi cards have a proper screw on antenna rather than the cheap clip in type that you can't change. So I would probably go TP-Link for a new router.

[MaiChai]

Took the nlink apart (screws under feet) and it is a decent router inside. Lots of capacitors, filter inline on the antenna. It has three Realtek chips (rlt8271, rtl8671p, rtl8185) a ram chip and a flash chip. The fact that its based on a Realtek chipset means its pretty decent. Basically Realtek are the reference design incorporated in alot of laptops/pcs/etc.

The rtl8185 is the wifi chip 801.11a/b/g, the rtl8671p and rtl8271 are the ADSL2+ SoC chipset (system on a chip; everything integrated together).

I recon True took a reference design and got someone to manufacture for them. Thats why you can't find nlink as a brand if you google it. Probably Realtek will supply you with the software too, which just needs 'branding' (eg the webpages) and minor customisation. Cheap solution that you throw away when it breaks or is no longer compatible.