Good Tyres And Tubes For Honda Wave

[pete600]

Yes , about those tyres...

As so many people here do indeed ride scooters[ waves, clicks etc] and may be mislead by the multitude of bullsh-t being posted by two particular contributers , i as a career motorcyclist feel that i have the knowledge and experience to factually point out the bullsh-t and have made an effort to do so, mainly for the safety aspects of it all. Riding any bike on Thai........any roads is a challenge in itself, so ensureing that your own bike is up to scratch is a vital step and as i said tyre pressures are the NO1 priority everything else being equal , and tho inconvenient ,the one good thing about having slow leaking tubes is that you do ckeck the pressures more often... Everything i have said is factual ,gleened from 46 years of motorcycling and near 850,000 ks of riding under my belt.From a proficiant junior trials bike rider[ the best learning experiece for anyone IMO as controlled slow riding is the key foundation to developing further riding proficiancy] Also b grade racer,basic rider instruction and high speed instruction, drag bikes,bike/tyre shop owner and near ever facet in between, including hours and hours of free tuition to juniors/beginners so i believe i can present the facts and not just hearsay or cut and paste or as the other guy said ''google it'' .Joking ..right? Heaps of stuff you google is often just the same crap from the same crap talkers !Yes?...I will welcome any intelligent debate on all aspects of M/cycling but i'm not going to continue banging my head on the wall in this absurd to and froing with the legendary highposter guy..A total time waste IMO..poor guy who has ''everything '' if you believe half his yarns..but is bored sh-tless obviously. Would not be easy to find a thread that he has not added his ''two bobs worth'' to..Follow his trend..first he manipulates a thread to suit his agenda, then you point this out and he gives a condescending smartass reply, then if you persist with his game he goes off on a different direction, then when you finally have obviously proven him wrong..he doesn't ever have the decency to admit wrong, but finds another post to play his game with....meanwhile totaly destroying a good thread...

He constantly posts nonfacts as factual on the theory of ''bullsh-t baffles brains!!'' You can paint this guy a picture and he will still twist and turn the presented facts to make himself look knowledgable and never, ever accept that he is wrong. Will either post some condescending smartass reply or go off on another tangent..or when he's finally beat, just ignore you!! On another forum he has this quote..''a closed mouth gathers no feet'' and i wish he would heed this himself as he is often caught ''foot in mouth''

The only reason i responded to pcallens OP for info regarding slow leaking tyres and wanting ''good quality tyres'' was because of this reply...: I get extra wide road tyres for my scoot there which improve the bike enormously. Tho that does come at a penalty for acceleration and gyroscopic resistance (added rotating weight, simple physics)...heres the manipulating the OP as i said ''bullshit baffles brains and obviously a cut and paste!!''

When i commented that 99% of riders of scooters would have no idea about this ..he comes back with this gem;Well if you dont understand the simple physics of why spinning more weight takes more work and the gyroscopic effect of resisting turning of a spinning wheel (didnt you sit in a office chair with a spinning wheel in high school ??) then just skip over the bits that you 'dont have a clue' about' ...... and heres the '' condescending remarks...

He can do and say and pass as fact many of his posts on electronics and gadgets ...i honestly dont know about or care about this stuff, tho there are a few people who do so its up to them to decide if hes talking crap or cut and pasting to big note himself....

PS as a side note to this, another already destroyed thread, i agree with you 100% oldcroc about this forum and you will notice thats its always the same 'self interests' group who do the destroying..and would not have the gonads to turn up at a social event, because they would be out of their precious secretive safety zone...you know, the one where the threats and keyboard warrior stuff can be made without fear of facing the consequences...

PPS to petercallen..no doubt you're shaking your head in disbelief at the mess that your simple post has again turned to..but did you solve the original problem ? As in a better quality tube or did you have to indulge in ''simple physics''...

Dam fine post well done

[transplant]

In a nut shell, I know everything about bikes, and I am the only reliable source of information about bikes on the net.

[fatcatkamala]

How do I figure out the optimal tire pressure (or at least reasonable), for a Honda Click with 17inch IRC EAGLE 60/90 max 36 psi?

The manufacture stock tire pressure (for 14 inch tires) is around 25 psi front and 29 psi back (36 psi back with passenger)

Is 25 front 29 back fine when switching from 14 inch to 17 inch tires? Or should I go with 28 front 32 back which is a common setup for a lot of bikes?

For all road bikes you simply go with the bike manufacturers recomendations.The max 36 psi you refer to on the tyre is as it implies, ie the maximum cold pressure that that tyre is designed to safely take without possible/probable damage occuring damage .

The bike manufacturers recomendations are made by the manufacturer taking into account all parameters so do as they say..easy and correct ,[unless you believe they dont know what they are doing....] regardless of your changing to a larger dia wheel....[out of curiosity, why did you do this?] I figure its a good idea considering the potholed roads and that is one benefit of larger diameter wheels but will also alter your final gearing giving slower pick up, better fuel consumption,but your speedo will show a lessor speed than true.

Whilst underinflating is the worst thing for tyres[ and why i check at least weekly] overinflation is also not advised. One very minor benefit , you may get slightly better fuel consumption,because of less contact patch,is also the major downside.ie less contact patch equals less traction and braking ability, and also tyres are more susceptible to impact damage, cuts etc,and make you feel like you are riding on solid tyres..why would you want these disadvantages? Also the tyres will wear more in the centre [because of smaller contact patch carrying the weight ] than they would if correctly inflated.

So, yes stay with the manufacturers recommendations,and if you mostly have a passenger do as they say.It takes only seconds to put extra pressure in if you need to.But realistically , unless you are out and about hard riding,big miles on a big bike the consequences of altering a scooter are minimized IMO.If you are real keen to get optimum pressures, you must start with a good accurate guage, take a cold reading,ensuring it is not below recomended pressure, go out and ride hard enough and long enough to bring tyre up to temp, stop and check immediately. If temp has not increased by more than 10%, then you have your optimum pressure.If more than 10% decrease pressure accordingly.

[fatcatkamala]

In a nut shell, I know everything about bikes, and I am the only reliable source of information about bikes on the net.

Not at all...Fact is that it is my lifes experience..not some googled cut and paste stuff....experience gained the hard way, and if i can correct nonfacts posted by the few who do, and help just one person...cool by me.... bored are you??

[fatcatkamala]

Yes , about those tyres...

As so many people here do indeed ride scooters[ waves, clicks etc] and may be mislead by the multitude of bullsh-t being posted by two particular contributers , i as a career motorcyclist feel that i have the knowledge and experience to factually point out the bullsh-t and have made an effort to do so, mainly for the safety aspects of it all. Riding any bike on Thai........any roads is a challenge in itself, so ensureing that your own bike is up to scratch is a vital step and as i said tyre pressures are the NO1 priority everything else being equal , and tho inconvenient ,the one good thing about having slow leaking tubes is that you do ckeck the pressures more often... Everything i have said is factual ,gleened from 46 years of motorcycling and near 850,000 ks of riding under my belt.From a proficiant junior trials bike rider[ the best learning experiece for anyone IMO as controlled slow riding is the key foundation to developing further riding proficiancy] Also b grade racer,basic rider instruction and high speed instruction, drag bikes,bike/tyre shop owner and near ever facet in between, including hours and hours of free tuition to juniors/beginners so i believe i can present the facts and not just hearsay or cut and paste or as the other guy said ''google it'' .Joking ..right? Heaps of stuff you google is often just the same crap from the same crap talkers !Yes?...I will welcome any intelligent debate on all aspects of M/cycling but i'm not going to continue banging my head on the wall in this absurd to and froing with the legendary highposter guy..A total time waste IMO..poor guy who has ''everything '' if you believe half his yarns..but is bored sh-tless obviously. Would not be easy to find a thread that he has not added his ''two bobs worth'' to..Follow his trend..first he manipulates a thread to suit his agenda, then you point this out and he gives a condescending smartass reply, then if you persist with his game he goes off on a different direction, then when you finally have obviously proven him wrong..he doesn't ever have the decency to admit wrong, but finds another post to play his game with....meanwhile totaly destroying a good thread...

He constantly posts nonfacts as factual on the theory of ''bullsh-t baffles brains!!'' You can paint this guy a picture and he will still twist and turn the presented facts to make himself look knowledgable and never, ever accept that he is wrong. Will either post some condescending smartass reply or go off on another tangent..or when he's finally beat, just ignore you!! On another forum he has this quote..''a closed mouth gathers no feet'' and i wish he would heed this himself as he is often caught ''foot in mouth''

The only reason i responded to pcallens OP for info regarding slow leaking tyres and wanting ''good quality tyres'' was because of this reply...: I get extra wide road tyres for my scoot there which improve the bike enormously. Tho that does come at a penalty for acceleration and gyroscopic resistance (added rotating weight, simple physics)...heres the manipulating the OP as i said ''bullshit baffles brains and obviously a cut and paste!!''

When i commented that 99% of riders of scooters would have no idea about this ..he comes back with this gem;Well if you dont understand the simple physics of why spinning more weight takes more work and the gyroscopic effect of resisting turning of a spinning wheel (didnt you sit in a office chair with a spinning wheel in high school ??) then just skip over the bits that you 'dont have a clue' about' ...... and heres the '' condescending remarks...

He can do and say and pass as fact many of his posts on electronics and gadgets ...i honestly dont know about or care about this stuff, tho there are a few people who do so its up to them to decide if hes talking crap or cut and pasting to big note himself....

PS as a side note to this, another already destroyed thread, i agree with you 100% oldcroc about this forum and you will notice thats its always the same 'self interests' group who do the destroying..and would not have the gonads to turn up at a social event, because they would be out of their precious secretive safety zone...you know, the one where the threats and keyboard warrior stuff can be made without fear of facing the consequences...

PPS to petercallen..no doubt you're shaking your head in disbelief at the mess that your simple post has again turned to..but did you solve the original problem ? As in a better quality tube or did you have to indulge in ''simple physics''...

Dam fine post well done

:emot-kiss: Thanks ,shame that the know-it-alls can't comprehend huh..

[fatcatkamala]

How do I figure out the optimal tire pressure (or at least reasonable), for a Honda Click with 17inch IRC EAGLE 60/90 max 36 psi?

The manufacture stock tire pressure (for 14 inch tires) is around 25 psi front and 29 psi back (36 psi back with passenger)

Is 25 front 29 back fine when switching from 14 inch to 17 inch tires? Or should I go with 28 front 32 back which is a common setup for a lot of bikes?

following fatcats rant I guess nobody dares to reply, but I would run 35 front and rear if you are a typical 90 kg farang with an occasional chick on board

Wow i expected this response from the Walter Mitty guy...tag teaming again are we? Luckily i don't care about your use of '' rant'' ...Bit too much for you to understand beachbum huh...Your advice above is too rediculous for words re' tyre pressures... anyway, not to waste to much time on your type.. As for nobody daring to reply..you might be surprised to know that their are actually some intelligent, comprehending members on this forum..and i actually said,..;will welcome any intelligent debate on all aspects of M/cycling but i'm not going to continue banging my head on thetable. Maybe the ''intelligent debate ''bit threw you huh!!

I used to really love guys like you, would turn up on highspeed tuition days...yeh,yeh, mate i know it all,let me out there and race...very hard to keep a straight face when they blew it big time..... Naa Deang..lol But of course you'd be fine...PS The fact that you don't follow the manufacturers specs may explain why you and your bitchbike parted ways a little while ago Live and learn mate!!

[BangTaoBoy]

In a nut shell, I know everything about bikes, and I am the only reliable source of information about bikes on the net.

That's not it at all. Some posters on here (one in particular) go out of there way to make themselves appear more knowledable than others, and will think nothing of making things up to win an argument. Most of the time it gets through peoples BS radars, because they're either a bit naive or just can't be bothered to check it out.

In this case, the well known poster came up against someone who had more knowledge in his little pinky than he did, and decided to pull him up, highlighting to those who may be none the wiser, not to take this advice as it was, as most of the time is, innaccurate.

The post should be pinned as a warning to others.

[llp]

out of curiosity, why did you do this?

Having had a year on the stock 14 inch and another year on 17 inch Thai style, I would defiantly choose 17 inch (almost the same size as a Honda Wave). Feels a lot more stable at higher speeds and more control. Only downside is slowing down considerably for speed bumps, or taking my time to bring the bike down a sidewalk curve.

My preferred tire pressure would actually be one that is the safest, that attains the best braking & good control while having normal wear (as opposed to best acceleration & fuel efficiency). However, if you have the tire pressure set a tad too low (to try to maximize the contact patch), this can cause a big problem braking on wet roads as water won't be passed efficiently through the tire thread unless a a certain or higher psi is met.

On the Ninja I run factory specs 28/32 psi. Took both hot and cold pressure and not too much variation.

Note to all: check/fill your own pressure on all your bikes, Thai shops that will add 70 psi to a 36 psi max tire. While a high pressure perhaps is safer then being serverly under inflated because of less heat built up at high speeds & allows for breaking on wet roads, you will have accelerated center tire wear.

[katabeachbum]

How do I figure out the optimal tire pressure (or at least reasonable), for a Honda Click with 17inch IRC EAGLE 60/90 max 36 psi?

The manufacture stock tire pressure (for 14 inch tires) is around 25 psi front and 29 psi back (36 psi back with passenger)

Is 25 front 29 back fine when switching from 14 inch to 17 inch tires? Or should I go with 28 front 32 back which is a common setup for a lot of bikes?

For all road bikes you simply go with the bike manufacturers recomendations.The max 36 psi you refer to on the tyre is as it implies, ie the maximum cold pressure that that tyre is designed to safely take without possible/probable damage occuring damage .

The bike manufacturers recomendations are made by the manufacturer taking into account all parameters so do as they say..easy and correct ,[unless you believe they dont know what they are doing....] regardless of your changing to a larger dia wheel....[out of curiosity, why did you do this?] I figure its a good idea considering the potholed roads and that is one benefit of larger diameter wheels but will also alter your final gearing giving slower pick up, better fuel consumption,but your speedo will show a lessor speed than true.

Whilst underinflating is the worst thing for tyres[ and why i check at least weekly] overinflation is also not advised. One very minor benefit , you may get slightly better fuel consumption,because of less contact patch,is also the major downside.ie less contact patch equals less traction and braking ability, and also tyres are more susceptible to impact damage, cuts etc,and make you feel like you are riding on solid tyres..why would you want these disadvantages? Also the tyres will wear more in the centre [because of smaller contact patch carrying the weight ] than they would if correctly inflated.

So, yes stay with the manufacturers recommendations,and if you mostly have a passenger do as they say.It takes only seconds to put extra pressure in if you need to.But realistically , unless you are out and about hard riding,big miles on a big bike the consequences of altering a scooter are minimized IMO.If you are real keen to get optimum pressures, you must start with a good accurate guage, take a cold reading,ensuring it is not below recomended pressure, go out and ride hard enough and long enough to bring tyre up to temp, stop and check immediately. If temp has not increased by more than 10%, then you have your optimum pressure.If more than 10% decrease pressure accordingly.

bike manufactorers tyre pressure recomondation is for a Click at max load 130 kg. Most farang load a Click more, thus tyre manufactorers max pressure to obtain tyres max load capacity often works best. For a Click

[katabeachbum]

How do I figure out the optimal tire pressure (or at least reasonable), for a Honda Click with 17inch IRC EAGLE 60/90 max 36 psi?

The manufacture stock tire pressure (for 14 inch tires) is around 25 psi front and 29 psi back (36 psi back with passenger)

Is 25 front 29 back fine when switching from 14 inch to 17 inch tires? Or should I go with 28 front 32 back which is a common setup for a lot of bikes?

following fatcats rant I guess nobody dares to reply, but I would run 35 front and rear if you are a typical 90 kg farang with an occasional chick on board

Wow i expected this response from the Walter Mitty guy...tag teaming again are we? Luckily i don't care about your use of '' rant'' ...Bit too much for you to understand beachbum huh...Your advice above is too rediculous for words re' tyre pressures... anyway, not to waste to much time on your type.. As for nobody daring to reply..you might be surprised to know that their are actually some intelligent, comprehending members on this forum..and i actually said,..;will welcome any intelligent debate on all aspects of M/cycling but i'm not going to continue banging my head on thetable. Maybe the ''intelligent debate ''bit threw you huh!!

I used to really love guys like you, would turn up on highspeed tuition days...yeh,yeh, mate i know it all,let me out there and race...very hard to keep a straight face when they blew it big time..... Naa Deang..lol But of course you'd be fine...PS The fact that you don't follow the manufacturers specs may explain why you and your bitchbike parted ways a little while ago Live and learn mate!!

On my 2010 Ninja 650R I run 32/36 as recommended by kwaker. If you witnessed me and my "bitchbike" Ninja 650R parted ways, I would like you to witness since we are unable to read the cars reg plate on recording. My first accident in 31 years, and I chose to ditch bike and myself rather than beeing run over by oncoming traffic on the wrong side of the road.

by the rest of your posts content, I can see you dont know me

Edited November 18, 2010 by katabeachbum

[robbrookes]

[

following fatcats rant I guess nobody dares to reply, but I would run 35 front and rear if you are a typical 90 kg farang with an occasional chick on board

Hello to you fellow bikers,here on holidays and as a bike enthusiast found these articles and infomation interesting and also confusing. llp did you have any clearance problems to the gards when you put on 17 inchers in place of originalls?

i found the fatcatkamalas articles to be quite correct and inline with what i have been taught as a biketyre fitter at home so well done i think and specifically so on tyres sizes to rim size and the all to often ignored vital tyre pressures.

actually we get more damaged tyres returned because of wrong pressures than any other single reason and we urge riders to take the advice of bike makers specs and strickly adhere to them and constantly monitor pressures and check for damage at least weekly. i mean to say who would know better than the factory people as to whats best for their bikes.sometimes the factory fitted tyres are not hi performance and this goes hand in hand with not all riders are hi perf capable.

heaps of bikes come in with rossi would bees type owners wanting hi perf tyres and wont accept our advice that they are not neccessary for most riders and they come back 4or5000 clicks later with no tread left in centre and barely used on the outer complaining about the cost to replace again already.They all want big wider tyres too,but we now have a video presentation showing the pitfalls of such and only a few refuse to acknowledge the advise.If a rider is very capable then by all means pay the extra for hi perf rubber but size and pressure for normal ops must be as per factory specs.In fact you will not pass your roadworthy inspections with tyres that are not same size as spec.

am wondering why the rider kbb that sets his own tyres to spec would tell llp to not go with spec and to put 10 lb more than adviced in his front tyre. This is as bad advise as i have ever heard and would be very dangerous and also uncomfortabley hard riding as the weight on the front wheel on click which is called LEAD in aus and UK is this below

Kerb Weight114kg (F: 48kg; R: 66kg)Max. Carrying Capacity176kgLoaded Weight290kg (F: 90kg; R: 200kg)so you have given incorrect info in all aspects here as with max loaded weight the front wheel is carrying only 90kg with 35lb pressure in it like riding on steel.maybe a typo error on your part?

[BangTaoBoy]

Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.

I hope people can see now, the difference between people who know what they are talking about, and people who are just desperate to be heard.

I have a sneaky feeling, that a certain TV member will stay clear of this thread for a while.

Enjoy your holiday Rob, and be careful, driving/riding in Phuket is entertaining to say the least.

[katabeachbum]

[

following fatcats rant I guess nobody dares to reply, but I would run 35 front and rear if you are a typical 90 kg farang with an occasional chick on board

Hello to you fellow bikers,here on holidays and as a bike enthusiast found these articles and infomation interesting and also confusing. llp did you have any clearance problems to the gards when you put on 17 inchers in place of originalls?

i found the fatcatkamalas articles to be quite correct and inline with what i have been taught as a biketyre fitter at home so well done i think and specifically so on tyres sizes to rim size and the all to often ignored vital tyre pressures.

actually we get more damaged tyres returned because of wrong pressures than any other single reason and we urge riders to take the advice of bike makers specs and strickly adhere to them and constantly monitor pressures and check for damage at least weekly. i mean to say who would know better than the factory people as to whats best for their bikes.sometimes the factory fitted tyres are not hi performance and this goes hand in hand with not all riders are hi perf capable.

heaps of bikes come in with rossi would bees type owners wanting hi perf tyres and wont accept our advice that they are not neccessary for most riders and they come back 4or5000 clicks later with no tread left in centre and barely used on the outer complaining about the cost to replace again already.They all want big wider tyres too,but we now have a video presentation showing the pitfalls of such and only a few refuse to acknowledge the advise.If a rider is very capable then by all means pay the extra for hi perf rubber but size and pressure for normal ops must be as per factory specs.In fact you will not pass your roadworthy inspections with tyres that are not same size as spec.

am wondering why the rider kbb that sets his own tyres to spec would tell llp to not go with spec and to put 10 lb more than adviced in his front tyre. This is as bad advise as i have ever heard and would be very dangerous and also uncomfortabley hard riding as the weight on the front wheel on click which is called LEAD in aus and UK is this below

Kerb Weight114kg (F: 48kg; R: 66kg)Max. Carrying Capacity176kgLoaded Weight290kg (F: 90kg; R: 200kg)so you have given incorrect info in all aspects here as with max loaded weight the front wheel is carrying only 90kg with 35lb pressure in it like riding on steel.maybe a typo error on your part?

the clicks parked outside my house here in LOS do not have carrying capacity of 176 kg. The much larger PCX does, equipped with 46 front and 57 rear load index

However we foreigners tend to load the clicks (and all other small bikes) with more load than bike manufactorer has expected, thus my recomondation is to follow tyre manufactorers recommneded max pressure to obtain max load capacity for A CLICK. braking this overload shifts to the low load index front tyre, and higher pressure than bike manufactorers recommondation makes tyre able to handle the load

On my big bikes, load capacity is sufficient, so I use bike manufactorers recommended pressure to obtain best handling and traction

If a bike user do not overload the bike, bike manufactorers tyre pressure should be used

Edit

Just had to go downstairs to get the facts straight. A new Click in Thailand comes with 34 front and 46 rear load index. IMHO a 34 load front tyre with 25psi on a 290kg bike is totally unable to drain any water braking on wet road. My recommended 35psi for this particular overloaded bike, is perhaps slightly to much, but much safer than 25psi. If tyre pressure is checked every week, perhaps 30-32 is ideal, but since most of us dont do that on these scoots, I suggest overinflate slightly. Which is what I do myself on the scoots. Tyre wear? 20k km and still thread left when replacing due to 2 years old

Riding bikes in Phuket daily for 8 years (approx 2500 days), past year as a Highway Police Volunteer, I see some bike accident. Some of them are single accidents, 2 farang on Click/Mio/Step/Fino/Scoopie. Overloaded. Underinflated. By posting here and sticking my neck out, I hope to reduce these accidents

Perhaps you could tell us if 25psi is sufficient to carry 290kg on a 34 load tyre?

Edited November 20, 2010 by katabeachbum

[robbrookes]

the clicks parked outside my house here in LOS do not have carrying capacity of 176 kg. The much larger PCX does, equipped with 46 front and 57 rear load index

However we foreigners tend to load the clicks (and all other small bikes) with more load than bike manufactorer has expected, thus my recomondation is to follow tyre manufactorers recommneded max pressure to obtain max load capacity for A CLICK. braking this overload shifts to the low load index front tyre, and higher pressure than bike manufactorers recommondation makes tyre able to handle the load

On my big bikes, load capacity is sufficient, so I use bike manufactorers recommended pressure to obtain best handling and traction

If a bike user do not overload the bike, bike manufactorers tyre pressure should be used

Edit

Just had to go downstairs to get the facts straight. A new Click in Thailand comes with 34 front and 46 rear load index. IMHO a 34 load front tyre with 25psi on a 290kg bike is totally unable to drain any water braking on wet road. My recommended 35psi for this particular overloaded bike, is perhaps slightly to much, but much safer than 25psi. If tyre pressure is checked every week, perhaps 30-32 is ideal, but since most of us dont do that on these scoots, I suggest overinflate slightly. Which is what I do myself on the scoots. Tyre wear? 20k km and still thread left when replacing due to 2 years old

Riding bikes in Phuket daily for 8 years (approx 2500 days), past year as a Highway Police Volunteer, I see some bike accident. Some of them are single accidents, 2 farang on Click/Mio/Step/Fino/Scoopie. Overloaded. Underinflated. By posting here and sticking my neck out, I hope to reduce these accidents

Perhaps you could tell us if 25psi is sufficient to carry 290kg on a 34 load tyre?

whoops i guess i made an error in trying to clarity your misinformation, im on holiday and i honestly dont have the knowledge about Clicks or the time to do so.you are all over the place with your comments and stats so maybe if i am inclined i will get back to youand put you right Bit like being back at work to be honest and dealing with no alls gets quite monotonous.I have only been in tyres for a 5 years so maybe i dont know anything you must be right , about everything i suppose,Crying shame that you are so confused , one thing tho,,do you agree that the Lead[ click] has 290 k capacity as you did seem to agree on that point?Give me something to work on.Also please tell me where the specs are on a click i looked at one now and load carryiong and stuff is not on the spec card.Thanks

[katabeachbum]

whoops i guess i made an error in trying to clarity your misinformation, im on holiday and i honestly dont have the knowledge about Clicks or the time to do so.you are all over the place with your comments and stats so maybe if i am inclined i will get back to youand put you right Bit like being back at work to be honest and dealing with no alls gets quite monotonous.I have only been in tyres for a 5 years so maybe i dont know anything you must be right , about everything i suppose,Crying shame that you are so confused , one thing tho,,do you agree that the Lead[ click] has 290 k capacity as you did seem to agree on that point?Give me something to work on.Also please tell me where the specs are on a click i looked at one now and load carryiong and stuff is not on the spec card.Thanks

Sorry can not confirm any info on Lead, as I only know the specs for bikes here in LOS.

Written info in Honda shops state Click(single shock and low load index tyres) can carry 130kg and Airblade(dual shocks and higher load index tyres) 160 kg.

Beeing in tyres for 5 years, you must know how to read load index on any road legal tyre?

I learned it working for the auto industry, and have spend 100sk km testing vehicles to find correct tyre pressure before launching them to the public.

PCX front says 90/90 - 14 M/C 46P. 46 is load index at tyres recomended max pressure and P is max speed at 25C and correct airpressure. Agree?

[petercallen]

I hadn't bothered to read this thread because I had no interest in the subject. However, I see it is staying near the top of the list and has passed the 50 replies mark, so I had a look.

Illegal activities, posts removed! Is there no subject that doesn't turn into a factional brawl in this sub-forum?

I noticed the CM forum mob are having a sponsored xmas party soon and all seem happy and friendly there, making such a show very feasable.

The last get together in Phuket was several years ago, and the efforts of a couple of members to organise one last year fell into disarray because of disagreement by people on virtually every aspect of the party.

One member tried to get a semi-regular social outing for couples going a few weeks back and was attacked on all sides by some of the ratbags on this forum. What's wrong with you people?

I guess the chance of Thaivisa sponsoring another function here is close to nil. If it did get off the ground it may be necessary to come armed with guns, tasers, pepper spray, dogs and paring knives!

This forum is too big for it's own good. It has so many members, with so many different types of people taking part. What with the mix of long termers, short termers, holiday makers, old boys, youngsters, the I've been here longer than you crew, and of course, a huge amount of posters who don't even live or visit Phuket, but get some wierd, perverse pleasure (I believe derives from jelousy) in slagging the place off.

I would guess the CM forum has a lot less traffic going through it, and I would think they are a much smaller, more simmilar aged group of ex-pats and therefor find it easier to get on. (We'll ask LivinLOS, he's moving there soon apparently)

Anyway. I don't think this forum should be about making friends particularly, that's what Lonely Hearts is for, people should get out in the real world and make friends.

Everybody from this forum in a room together, all juiced up, Not for me thanks.

Anyway about these tyres.....

Yes , about those tyres...

As so many people here do indeed ride scooters[ waves, clicks etc] and may be mislead by the multitude of bullsh-t being posted by two particular contributers , i as a career motorcyclist feel that i have the knowledge and experience to factually point out the bullsh-t and have made an effort to do so, mainly for the safety aspects of it all. Riding any bike on Thai........any roads is a challenge in itself, so ensureing that your own bike is up to scratch is a vital step and as i said tyre pressures are the NO1 priority everything else being equal , and tho inconvenient ,the one good thing about having slow leaking tubes is that you do ckeck the pressures more often... Everything i have said is factual ,gleened from 46 years of motorcycling and near 850,000 ks of riding under my belt.From a proficiant junior trials bike rider[ the best learning experiece for anyone IMO as controlled slow riding is the key foundation to developing further riding proficiancy] Also b grade racer,basic rider instruction and high speed instruction, drag bikes,bike/tyre shop owner and near ever facet in between, including hours and hours of free tuition to juniors/beginners so i believe i can present the facts and not just hearsay or cut and paste or as the other guy said ''google it'' .Joking ..right? Heaps of stuff you google is often just the same crap from the same crap talkers !Yes?...I will welcome any intelligent debate on all aspects of M/cycling but i'm not going to continue banging my head on the wall in this absurd to and froing with the legendary highposter guy..A total time waste IMO..poor guy who has ''everything '' if you believe half his yarns..but is bored sh-tless obviously. Would not be easy to find a thread that he has not added his ''two bobs worth'' to..Follow his trend..first he manipulates a thread to suit his agenda, then you point this out and he gives a condescending smartass reply, then if you persist with his game he goes off on a different direction, then when you finally have obviously proven him wrong..he doesn't ever have the decency to admit wrong, but finds another post to play his game with....meanwhile totaly destroying a good thread...

He constantly posts nonfacts as factual on the theory of ''bullsh-t baffles brains!!'' You can paint this guy a picture and he will still twist and turn the presented facts to make himself look knowledgable and never, ever accept that he is wrong. Will either post some condescending smartass reply or go off on another tangent..or when he's finally beat, just ignore you!! On another forum he has this quote..''a closed mouth gathers no feet'' and i wish he would heed this himself as he is often caught ''foot in mouth''

The only reason i responded to pcallens OP for info regarding slow leaking tyres and wanting ''good quality tyres'' was because of this reply...: I get extra wide road tyres for my scoot there which improve the bike enormously. Tho that does come at a penalty for acceleration and gyroscopic resistance (added rotating weight, simple physics)...heres the manipulating the OP as i said ''bullshit baffles brains and obviously a cut and paste!!''

When i commented that 99% of riders of scooters would have no idea about this ..he comes back with this gem;Well if you dont understand the simple physics of why spinning more weight takes more work and the gyroscopic effect of resisting turning of a spinning wheel (didnt you sit in a office chair with a spinning wheel in high school ??) then just skip over the bits that you 'dont have a clue' about' ...... and heres the '' condescending remarks...

He can do and say and pass as fact many of his posts on electronics and gadgets ...i honestly dont know about or care about this stuff, tho there are a few people who do so its up to them to decide if hes talking crap or cut and pasting to big note himself....

PS as a side note to this, another already destroyed thread, i agree with you 100% oldcroc about this forum and you will notice thats its always the same 'self interests' group who do the destroying..and would not have the gonads to turn up at a social event, because they would be out of their precious secretive safety zone...you know, the one where the threats and keyboard warrior stuff can be made without fear of facing the consequences...

PPS to petercallen..no doubt you're shaking your head in disbelief at the mess that your simple post has again turned to..but did you solve the original problem ? As in a better quality tube or did you have to indulge in ''simple physics''...

I decided to just keep pumping up my tyres every week or so.

It never ceases to amaze me the codswallop posted on this forum by just a few members.

They rarely post themselves because they are to worried about being chewed up and spat out.

And as everyone knows if we had a get together( and there are quite a few people i would like to meet)

they would not turn up, keyboard hero's is what i call them..

[robbrookes]

whoops i guess i made an error in trying to clarity your misinformation, im on holiday and i honestly dont have the knowledge about Clicks or the time to do so.you are all over the place with your comments and stats so maybe if i am inclined i will get back to youand put you right Bit like being back at work to be honest and dealing with no alls gets quite monotonous.I have only been in tyres for a 5 years so maybe i dont know anything you must be right , about everything i suppose,Crying shame that you are so confused , one thing tho,,do you agree that the Lead[ click] has 290 k capacity as you did seem to agree on that point?Give me something to work on.Also please tell me where the specs are on a click i looked at one now and load carryiong and stuff is not on the spec card.Thanks

Sorry can not confirm any info on Lead, as I only know the specs for bikes here in LOS.

Written info in Honda shops state Click(single shock and low load index tyres) can carry 130kg and Airblade(dual shocks and higher load index tyres) 160 kg.

Beeing in tyres for 5 years, you must know how to read load index on any road legal tyre?

I learned it working for the auto industry, and have spend 100sk km testing vehicles to find correct tyre pressure before launching them to the public.

PCX front says 90/90 - 14 M/C 46P. 46 is load index at tyres recomended max pressure and P is max speed at 25C and correct airpressure. Agree?

Oh dear me cobber, now you bring in PCX, we were on clicks lets try to keep a constant here.You are getting more and more confusing with every post and posting more and more incorrect stuff.As i said before>>

As i said im on holiday and relaxing and not needing to be talking with someone who can not accept facts.The fatcat post sorted everything very factually and you said it was a rant. It is unfaultable and factual.

Maybe if i am inclined i will get back to you and put you right. Bit like being back at work to be honest and dealing with no alls gets quite monotonous.Crying shame that you are so confused and not willing and able to understand the most basic stuff as is presented to you.

Tell you what, if i get really really bored and have the inclination to disprove your words <and there is a huge amount to easily disprove> i may do so but i feel that you are similar to one of our regulars at the shop a right knowall who goes against all presented facts and figures to try and big note himself and ends up just looking rather ignorant and arrogant.Gives us a good laugh at times

I have read your replies to kamala and see that you make a habbit out of denying facts and mixing words and this confirms what i have said about comparing you with our regular customer.

You very nearly got it right regarding load index. P means rated to 150KPH at MAX pressure 46 is indeed max weight rating which is 170 kilos. Two points right out of a multitude of wrongs congrats to you.

[katabeachbum]

whoops i guess i made an error in trying to clarity your misinformation, im on holiday and i honestly dont have the knowledge about Clicks or the time to do so.you are all over the place with your comments and stats so maybe if i am inclined i will get back to youand put you right Bit like being back at work to be honest and dealing with no alls gets quite monotonous.I have only been in tyres for a 5 years so maybe i dont know anything you must be right , about everything i suppose,Crying shame that you are so confused , one thing tho,,do you agree that the Lead[ click] has 290 k capacity as you did seem to agree on that point?Give me something to work on.Also please tell me where the specs are on a click i looked at one now and load carryiong and stuff is not on the spec card.Thanks

Sorry can not confirm any info on Lead, as I only know the specs for bikes here in LOS.

Written info in Honda shops state Click(single shock and low load index tyres) can carry 130kg and Airblade(dual shocks and higher load index tyres) 160 kg.

Beeing in tyres for 5 years, you must know how to read load index on any road legal tyre?

I learned it working for the auto industry, and have spend 100sk km testing vehicles to find correct tyre pressure before launching them to the public.

PCX front says 90/90 - 14 M/C 46P. 46 is load index at tyres recomended max pressure and P is max speed at 25C and correct airpressure. Agree?

Oh dear me cobber, now you bring in PCX, we were on clicks lets try to keep a constant here.You are getting more and more confusing with every post and posting more and more incorrect stuff.As i said before>>

As i said im on holiday and relaxing and not needing to be talking with someone who can not accept facts.The fatcat post sorted everything very factually and you said it was a rant. It is unfaultable and factual.

Maybe if i am inclined i will get back to you and put you right. Bit like being back at work to be honest and dealing with no alls gets quite monotonous.Crying shame that you are so confused and not willing and able to understand the most basic stuff as is presented to you.

Tell you what, if i get really really bored and have the inclination to disprove your words <and there is a huge amount to easily disprove> i may do so but i feel that you are similar to one of our regulars at the shop a right knowall who goes against all presented facts and figures to try and big note himself and ends up just looking rather ignorant and arrogant.Gives us a good laugh at times

I have read your replies to kamala and see that you make a habbit out of denying facts and mixing words and this confirms what i have said about comparing you with our regular customer.

You very nearly got it right regarding load index. P means rated to 150KPH at MAX pressure 46 is indeed max weight rating which is 170 kilos. Two points right out of a multitude of wrongs congrats to you.

so we agree a PCX tyre can carry 170kg if airpressure is MAX, IOW approx 35 psi.

Now Clicks tyre is only 34 loadindex, and may I suggest it needs 35psi to carry two foreigners load

and can we agree bike manufactorers suggested 25psi is unsifficient to carry such overload?

rather than comparing me with your customers, could you please point out any lacks of facts in my posts? Thanks :jap:

and for all other scoot riders, pump up your tyres according to the load you carry. keeps the rubberside down

[cdnvic]

One flame removed. Please address members respectfully or otherwise just stay quiet.

[robbrookes]

Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.

I hope people can see now, the difference between people who know what they are talking about, and people who are just desperate to be heard.

I have a sneaky feeling, that a certain TV member will stay clear of this thread for a while.

Enjoy your holiday Rob, and be careful, driving/riding in Phuket is entertaining to say the least.

Thanks for the well wishes i agree the driving is full on but enjoyable and entertaining .Out of here Monday back to work where at least you can have a one on one with the know alls that come in to the shop.i guess i made a mistake before as my previous reply was removed and obviously you have to bite your tongue a bit.

I will think about the beach guys articles and maybe get back and rectify all the non facts that have been posted.

A lot of work because he changes his direction so often, and has involved many facets of his original posts.but he has made the challenge and i will clarify things for him .

Quite enjoyed phuket after not holidaying here since 03 but has really changed maybe that will be a starter thread later.

[fatcatkamala]

I decided to just keep pumping up my tyres every week or so.

It never ceases to amaze me the codswallop posted on this forum by just a few members.

They rarely post themselves because they are to worried about being chewed up and spat out.

And as everyone knows if we had a get together( and there are quite a few people i would like to meet)

they would not turn up, keyboard hero's is what i call them..

Good idea peter, to just check and inflate weekly...so easy takes allof a minute huh [not too many simple physics involved then

As for the rest of your p[ost...Thats it in a nutshell .The absolute truth!!

[cdnvic]

Seems nobody can post without insulting someone else. Enough.