Buy An Nsr 150Sp Or A Cbr 150Fi

[ola33]

Is it worth buying a Nsr 150 sp before a Cbr 150 fi

I know that nsr is more thirsty but is the nsr 20% more thirsty or 80% more thirsty when driving normal

And how much does the insurance cost

Plus all the advantages and disadvantages of the motorcycles

So help me now

Why should I buy an NSR instead of a CBR and why should I buy a CBR instead of a NSR

Thanks in advance

[ttakata]

I suggest you research 2 strokes on the web but based on the four 2 stroke pocketbikes I used to race, I know the following:2 strokes are more powerful on the top end but you have to wind the engine up high to make that power.

2 strokes burn not only gas but oil and later spit out that oil all over the bike.

2 strokes will require more cylinder rebuilds and will foul sparkplugs more.

The 4 stroke CBR will have lower top end power but more usable power down low.

It shouldn't burn oil as its not part of the combustion process.

It's going to be cleaner, cheaper, and more reliable in the long run.

If the NSR isn't going to be a collectible or track day only toy, I'd get the CBR.

For daily driving, a 4 stroke is the way to go.

That's why most new cars and bikes have been 4 strokes for the past few decades.

[ClareQuilty]

That's why most new cars and bikes have been 4 strokes for the past few decades.

In fairness up untill around 10 or 15 years ago a very large percentage of bikes (probably the majority) sold in Thailand were two-strokes, and quite a lot of them are still on the road offering trouble -free service. I'm talking about Tenas, Tiaras, Belle-Rs, etc., but most Thais I know who have these things say they're much more reliable than the newer bikes. I know the three I have never give me the slightest trouble, and the maintainence is minimal - just add 60 baht worth of auto-lube to the auto-lube tank about every 20th tank of gas.

[submaniac]

Maintenance wise, two strokes are easier to maintain. Two strokes are a much simpler technology with the corollary being that they are also simpler to fix.

Back to the original question, they are thirstier than a 4 stroke. Since the power stroke is every other stroke, a 150cc 1 cylinder two stroke will probably use as much fuel as a 300cc two cylinder bike. So my "guestimate" on fuel economy (I have a 150cc TZM two stroke but really never checked fuel economy) is that it would be on par with a 250cc ninja.

[JonnyF]

I've seen very clean NSR's for 15-20k. In a couple of years if you look after it then I'm guessing it will be worth about the same as it is now or maybe a couple of thousand less. Spares are available and very cheap. The new FI CBR150 is nearer 80k as far as I know so it's going to be a long time before you make that 60k difference back on gas savings. Also the NSR150 makes more power and will be a more fun ride (assuming you're not averse to riding at high RPM's to make that power). I believe the insurance is the same but it's only going to be a few hundred baht either way anyway.

The notion that a well maintained 2 stroke is unreliable is nonsense. I think Thanh (sp) from the forum has done tens of thousands of kms on his 2 stroke, and I'm always seeing the 20 year old Kawasaki 2 strokes bashing their way through Bangkok with a gas canister on the back and the token old guy smoking a cigarette up front. If they were that expensive/unreliable then I don't think you'd be seeing this.

[Gippy]

I have a NSR150 but I never checked the fuel usage, it does seem quite thirsty though. I think the answer depends on the kind of riding you will be doing. The NSR is great on the open roads but with the low power at low revs I don't find it so good around town. Unless I thrash it the Fino's beat me off the line every time and the turning circle isn't the best for weaving through traffic. It's great fun at over 7,000 rpm though

[thaicbr]

there is a bike shop in Petchabun that STILL has some BRAND NEW 2 stroke bikes in stock.

They had a Honda Tena and a few Kawasaki 2t's and also the king of 2t underbones a Cagiva.

Dunno how much they were selling them for.

But the shop is the big one on the main road just down from the Burapa hotel.

[Semper]

I've seen very clean NSR's for 15-20k. In a couple of years if you look after it then I'm guessing it will be worth about the same as it is now or maybe a couple of thousand less. Spares are available and very cheap. The new FI CBR150 is nearer 80k as far as I know so it's going to be a long time before you make that 60k difference back on gas savings. Also the NSR150 makes more power and will be a more fun ride (assuming you're not averse to riding at high RPM's to make that power). I believe the insurance is the same but it's only going to be a few hundred baht either way anyway.

The notion that a well maintained 2 stroke is unreliable is nonsense. I think Thanh (sp) from the forum has done tens of thousands of kms on his 2 stroke, and I'm always seeing the 20 year old Kawasaki 2 strokes bashing their way through Bangkok with a gas canister on the back and the token old guy smoking a cigarette up front. If they were that expensive/unreliable then I don't think you'd be seeing this.

But not the SP.

[bbradsby]

I've seen very clean NSR's for 15-20k. In a couple of years if you look after it then I'm guessing it will be worth about the same as it is now or maybe a couple of thousand less. Spares are available and very cheap. The new FI CBR150 is nearer 80k as far as I know so it's going to be a long time before you make that 60k difference back on gas savings. Also the NSR150 makes more power and will be a more fun ride (assuming you're not averse to riding at high RPM's to make that power). I believe the insurance is the same but it's only going to be a few hundred baht either way anyway.

The notion that a well maintained 2 stroke is unreliable is nonsense. I think Thanh (sp) from the forum has done tens of thousands of kms on his 2 stroke, and I'm always seeing the 20 year old Kawasaki 2 strokes bashing their way through Bangkok with a gas canister on the back and the token old guy smoking a cigarette up front. If they were that expensive/unreliable then I don't think you'd be seeing this.

But not the SP.

Exactly right, NOT the SP. These are rare as hens teeth, esp in good shape... like mine sorry, couldn't resist! As for my vote, I'd never get a CBR 150 over the NSR-150 sp. Fast, light, great handling, great banshee sound & smell, single sided swingarm, simple to work on, less parts to break/fix/pay for, stone reliable, and a resale value of 100% of cost. Only better comparable bike is a Cagiva Mito 125ev - unobtanium, unless you want to buy mine in SF and import it to LOS...

When I bought my NSR, it was basically good, but prety much EVERYTHING was just a bit out of adjustment so it started & ran like $h1te if not full on the gas. but I sorted it out and LOVE the bike. Its very streetable with surprisingly good midrange due to its exhaust power valve, which re-tunes the exhaust port based on rpm.

Edited March 6, 2011 by bbradsby

[bbradsby]

I have a NSR150 but I never checked the fuel usage, it does seem quite thirsty though. I think the answer depends on the kind of riding you will be doing. The NSR is great on the open roads but with the low power at low revs I don't find it so good around town. Unless I thrash it the Fino's beat me off the line every time and the turning circle isn't the best for weaving through traffic. It's great fun at over 7,000 rpm though

but they're thrashing those girly finos to do so... is yours an SP? Heard they were tuned up a bit over the previous model... chamber, ecu, something like that.

Anyway, mileage? Who cares... c'mon, just buy a Yaris if its about mileage.

[Gippy]

I have a NSR150 but I never checked the fuel usage, it does seem quite thirsty though. I think the answer depends on the kind of riding you will be doing. The NSR is great on the open roads but with the low power at low revs I don't find it so good around town. Unless I thrash it the Fino's beat me off the line every time and the turning circle isn't the best for weaving through traffic. It's great fun at over 7,000 rpm though

but they're thrashing those girly finos to do so... is yours an SP? Heard they were tuned up a bit over the previous model... chamber, ecu, something like that.

Anyway, mileage? Who cares... c'mon, just buy a Yaris if its about mileage.

Yes it's an SP. The wife bought it in a bad state for pretty cheap and the brother in law restored it for us (free labour!). It runs very nicely now I sorted out the electrics and it will idle instead of cutting out every time. The Finos get the jump on it but when you catch them you can easily be going twice as fast so they really know they have been over taken

[bbradsby]

the NSRs hold their own quite nicely, and for BKK traffic you can dispatch pesky cagers w/o problem. also, its small & narrow and the lock-to-lock of the handlebars is surprisingly good for a sportbike in threading through gridlocked cage ragers as ya say.... haha,-c'ya suckers!

[JonnyF]

I've seen very clean NSR's for 15-20k. In a couple of years if you look after it then I'm guessing it will be worth about the same as it is now or maybe a couple of thousand less. Spares are available and very cheap. The new FI CBR150 is nearer 80k as far as I know so it's going to be a long time before you make that 60k difference back on gas savings. Also the NSR150 makes more power and will be a more fun ride (assuming you're not averse to riding at high RPM's to make that power). I believe the insurance is the same but it's only going to be a few hundred baht either way anyway.

The notion that a well maintained 2 stroke is unreliable is nonsense. I think Thanh (sp) from the forum has done tens of thousands of kms on his 2 stroke, and I'm always seeing the 20 year old Kawasaki 2 strokes bashing their way through Bangkok with a gas canister on the back and the token old guy smoking a cigarette up front. If they were that expensive/unreliable then I don't think you'd be seeing this.

But not the SP.

I saw clean SP's for under 20k when I was looking 2-3 years back on Phuket. Not on the farang websites but just parked up on main roads or in mechanics shophouses with a sign on them. They looked good aesthetically and even if they had mechanical issues it would have only taken a few thousand baht to sort them out. Just have to keep an eye out and take your time.

I've also seen them advertised for 30k or even more on bahtsold, TV etc. but I'm not sure if people are actually buying them at these prices.

[KRS1]

if you plan on going out of town often id get the CBR150.

The NSR is a bit bigger than the CBR, fyi

[RED21]

Saw an NSR150SP converted to a naked streetfighter for rent/ sale two blocks from my house last weekend.

If anyone's interested, the bike is just across Wat Papao in San Kamphaeng in Chiang Mai a few meters from the old market, along the road to the police station.

[ClareQuilty]

there is a bike shop in Petchabun that STILL has some BRAND NEW 2 stroke bikes in stock.

Neat. There is a similar one in Khon Kaen - old fellow with a Yamaha dealer has a lot of brand new Tiaras, a few Belle Rs, some two stroke family bikes, and about six 150 cc two stroke sport bikes, which are the Yamaha equaivalent of the NSR, buI can't remember the name of that model. He's asking about 30K for the Belle Rs and family bikes, about 38-40 for the Tiaras, and 60K for the bigger bikes.

[MaiChai]

I saw a CBR150 the other day with a NSR SP Proarm on the rear; thought it looked a bit odd, but it looked pretty good; big tyre on the rear. Maybe the guy upgraded but wanted to keep the SP Proarm he had on his old bike?

I don't think you can compare an old NSR150SP and a new CBR150? I mean the NSR will most likely be quite worn and need alot of work to bring it up to scratch; while the new CBR has the latest fuel injection technology, etc. It depends what you want; a nice new (expensive) bike that you have to worry about or a cheap old bike and you probably won't care too much if it gets nicked. The new CBR and NSR SP look about the same size, although I suspect the NSR is heavier. Parts can be pricy on the NSR SP (eg forks or anything to do with the proarm). With a new CBR you don't need to worry about parts.

I have an NSR150SP; makes a great noise Its very manoeuvrable around Bangkok traffic. I certainly keep up with the Finos although the gear shifting can get tiresome.

Have you considered a Kawasaki KR (assuming you are interested in a cheap old bike)? Lots of them about, easy to get parts for, cheap to run?

While I am here, anyone know where to get a rear shock for the SP? I was quoted 7,000baht for an original (list is 10,000). The guy also told me that Showa does a replacement for the SP. I tried Chinatown a few weeks back but alot of the shops were still close taking a long Chinese New Year holiday.

Edited March 14, 2011 by MaiChai

[MaiChai]

Bought a Belle R for the ex wife back in 1996. Tough bike having spent most of its life on country roads. My 10 year old son now uses it. Recon these go for about 5k baht now. These are officially called Y100's. I bought a new carb for it (not fitted yet), I think it had a new piston/rebore once, never had the clutch replaced nor had anything internally repaired. Just carb cleans from time to time, front mudgard replaced once. Probably needs new shocks on the back. Think I paid 26k for it second hand. Very tough bike, and has had alot of abuse. These have a clutch, but can be driven like an semit auto.

Also the Honda Novas about the same size and maybe a little more; maybe 7k baht.

[MaiChai]

Just a quick update on an NSR150 rear shock. YSS do a replacement shock, contrary to one bike shop telling me they don't. Actually the YSS NSR150RR shock and NSR150 SP shock are physically identical; only difference is the SP one has a 10kg higher capacity. I understand this as meaning it has a stiffer spring, also meaning a harder ride. Thus most bike shops don't bother stocking the SP one, since the RR one will fit and is good enough for an old bike. Also assume its cheaper (more sold normally means cheaper tooling meaning cheaper end price). Hence why it was hard to find a replacement; if I had just asked for the RR one, most bike shops would have it. I know this is off topic, but hopefully it will be useful to someone. I got mine from a bike shop near the Shell petrol station behind Worachak in Chinatown.

Back on topic: there is another alternative: an old cbr150. Lots of these about and probably cheaper now that the new model is out. Actually the new model is the 3rd cbr150 released by Honda, so if you go for 1st generation, you will probably get a cheaper price again. If I didn;t have a NSR SP I would consider a 2nd hand cbr150. I mean cheap to run, lots of parts available, 4 stroke, etc.

Edited March 16, 2011 by MaiChai

[MaiChai]

Fitted the shock today. Easy, BUT the proarm is not designed by Honda (actually Elf from France) and it has a poorly designed lower bolt. Hard to explain but the head side is slightly tapered and designed to fit into a tapered hole on proarm. Problem is the tapers dont lock but the bolt slides right out the other side, so i had to cut up a Birdy can and use the sheet metal to buffer up the tapers so the bolt does not come out the other side. Sounds like a bodge but alternative is to a buy a longer nut and bolt or a new proarm. Old and new shocks look the same, but despite reading the specs in the Yss brochure the new one must be shorter as the side stand is too big now! It doesnt seem lower at the back however. So bike is in danger of toppling over so remove two buffer washers someone has put in the side stand, allowing the bike to sit less vertical. Just a temp work around; I will either shorten the stand (i have sledge hammer somewhere) or buy a shorter one, since it looks a pretty standard design.

Its not the first time i have been disapointed with the design of the proarm. Also i have had problems with original Honda parts before, so on the whole i am not disappointed with the yss shock, and the price is good.

Before you guys flame me on hijacking some elses thread, i just wanted to give complete info on the shock install; it may be very useful to someone.

[bbradsby]

Fitted the shock today...Old and new shocks look the same, but despite reading the specs in the Yss brochure the new one must be shorter as the side stand is too big now! It doesnt seem lower at the back however. So bike is in danger of toppling over so remove two buffer washers someone has put in the side stand, allowing the bike to sit less vertical. Just a temp work around; I will either shorten the stand (i have sledge hammer somewhere) or buy a shorter one, since it looks a pretty standard design...

A few YSS shox are length-adjustable, and I'd recommend getting one that is - and raising the rear ride height to quicken up the steering on the relatively conservative geometry of the NSR-150SP. Ditto for the RR version in all likelihood, but do your own homework. My YSS shock length is adjusted to raise the rear radically - about 30mm - and the bike's on-track turn-in was transformed - its now very light & agile. And high-speed, straight-line stability is still very good. So I'd suggest that lowering the rear may be good for urban street use, but would ruin the handling of your bike. My sidestand is now too short, so needs a quick welder shop visit for a cheap fix, or I'll do up a zoot one in aluminum.

[MaiChai]

Well I have been doing some research. Basically the YSS NSR-RR stock is 250mm and the SP is 260mm. The one I took out was 265mm. Thats hole centre to hole centre. All the Honda Thailand bikes that are monoshock seem to have the same mounting holes. Well cbr, sonic, etc. So I kind of thought about getting one thats about 265mm again, but your idea sounds good too. I noticed with the lower shock that the bike was less manoverable, although maybe more comfortable? I am definitely disappointed since I changed the shock. Mind you gf complains the old setup was too high so she will probably like the drop (she is short). I was looking at yss.co.th yesterday and they have a coding system, but the site is not responding at the moment. Do you have the code for your shock so I can look up its type? Mine is MD302-250P-1-02-4. I will paste in the page for looking up the codes when its back. The shock I have is fixed length, the P means you can adjust the tightness of the spring (but not the length), M means rear monoshock, 302 means piston length 30mm and 2 means 12mm wide. A bog standard non gas monoshock.

I also managed to get a replacement sidestand; it seems a bit tricky finding one that is shorter that has the notch at the back for the spring and the metal loop at the front for pulling the stand down. However one of the bike shops at Sapan Kwai today took the time to find something suitable (Kawasaki Tuxedo); it had a ball welded on top of the foot of the stand making it easy to pull it down with your toes; 60 baht. Made a nice change from alot of Bangkok bike shops in that they can't be bothered to spend the time to find what you want (eg 'no have'). I will keep the original stand incase I change the shock.

A cbr150 looks a possibility, but I need to check on the yss site for its length!

[MaiChai]

Site is back: codes: http://www.yss.co.th/code.php

cbr150 is the shock to fit. Now I understand why no one stocks the NSR150SP shock; you can install the cbr one instead!!!

YSS shocks for cbr150:

ME302-265T-06

MO302-265T-06

MX302-265TRC-06

MZ302-265TR-06

MZ302-265TRL-10

M means rear mono shock

E means ECONOMY EMULSION GAS SHOCK

O means ECONOMY EXTERNAL RESERVOIR ON HOSE GAS SHOCK.

X means EXTERNAL RESERVOIR ON HOSE GAS SHOCK.

Z means EMULSION GAS SHOCK

T means THREAD SPRING PRELOAD

R means REBOUND ADJUSTABLE

C means COMPRESSION ADJUSTABLE

L means LENGTH ADJUSTABLE

I am rebuilding the forks on Monday, but after that will be out to buy a cbr shock. Woopie

[bbradsby]

My YSS shock is an MX 302-285 TRC, not the spec'd shock, but after researching the site your reference above I was able to determine it'd work and with the length adjustability & remote reservoir it is a very high end shock with its length, preload, compression & rebound damping adjustability.

Do raise your rear ride height if you want to get quicker steering, as it steepens the fork angle. But be careful - you don't want to make a bike twitchy or tank-slapper happy, and too much steepening of steering angle will do just that. I noted that the NSR's handling was very lazy, so decided to experiment and am now extremely happy with the handling of the bike - but for the forks, which are original. What are your fork rebuild plans?

[MaiChai]

Bugger, I am confused. I bought a yss cbr shock and its 260mm not 265mm. Not the same as the yss site. Then again the site says the SP shock should be 260mm but in fact mine was fitted with a 265mm. I am not sure if I should fit it and just try it out or take it back and try and get a longer one? Paid 850 baht. Your shock will be much more expensive. Certainly the RR one isn't good enough because I hit road bumps when the gf is on the back; anyway the bike is like a dog now.

I have rebuilt the forks once already. New seals and teflon coated bushes. However they still leak, so figure its not the seals/dust caps. Trouble is the upper bushes were wider than the forks meaning sidewards movement and the oil gets squirted out through the gap; either the bushes are not right or more likely the fork is worn down. So what I did yesterday is I forced open the top bush with a screwdriver and filed 0.8mm off the edge. This means it can get a closer fit round the fork. Then I cut a strip of tin off a Birdy can and slide that between the bush and the fork body. I kept cutting it down until I get a good fit with the bush and fork. Only did one for as a test (the worse leaking one); it takes much more time than a rebuild since you need to get the sizing right. Put 200ml of oil in it (lowish); done about 10km since and so far its dry. It would not be the first time I have had Honda Thailand parts that are not up to spec, and anyway you would think they would do different sizes to cater for wear? I will test it out a couple of weeks before doing the other one. Otherwise the alternative is probably new forks.

Edited March 21, 2011 by MaiChai

[MaiChai]

Correction: my original shock was 270mm long. Took back the 260mm cbr shock and they let me swap it for a Honda Beat one (mini NSR) which is 265mm long. This has to be fitted upside down as one end of it is wider and this will only fit at the proarm end; thats not a problem since there isn't any cup to fill with water from the wheel arch, etc, when it rains. Anyway its fitted now, and I installed a new lean stand, which is the correct one and exactly the right size. The bike now looks similar to before. Spring seems quit soft so probably needs to be tightened up. I will try and get an adjuster spanner next time I pass a bike shop. This setup will do for now; I will keep an eye out for a longer shock and buy one when I see one; I like your tips on raising the back. Do you have an idea of the length of your current setting? I assume your shock is adjustable 285 thru to 302mm?

Fork I rebuilt is still dry so decided to put a further 50ml of fork oil in (total 250ml) so as to balance out better with the existing fork. I will run with it for a couple of weeks and if it remains dry, I will rebuild the other and balance out the oil (shop manual says use 330ml of oil, but that depends on how thick the oil is, so I just keep adding oil until the damping is optimum). Its not the first time I have had to adapt new parts to fix an issue; such is the nature of mechanics, sometimes need to adapt and improvise to get the desired effect.

[MaiChai]

Fork I did the other day is good, and have done at least 50km since I did. Conclusion: when you replace the bushes, they are probably oversized since they are designed for NEW forks. If the forks are old then the bushes will need to be filed down a little so that they have a tight fit around the fork. The second fork was quite close fitting after filing the bush down so it didn't need much of a shim between the bush and fork body. Here are some photos; how to file down the bush, and inserting a shim made from a Birdy can to force closer fitting around fork. Hope this might be useful to someone who has similar problems.

For the mods: if you think I have taken over the thread: feel free to move my posts to a new thread. You might want to call it something like: NSR150 SP: how to fix leaking forks. Thx.

Edited March 24, 2011 by MaiChai

[bbradsby]

...Do you have an idea of the length of your current setting? I assume your shock is adjustable 285 thru to 302mm?

My MX302-285 TRCL (remote reservoir, fully adjustable) length is adjusted to its shortest setting, whatever that is... not sure as it's been a few months since I measured & installed it. Let me get some assistance to hold the bike and I'll get you the unladen & static sag lengths. Will say the shock is not the NSR-spec'd unit, and it's added length almost prevented it from fitting, without removal of swingarm, into the top shock mount flange at the frame cross member. But I don't give up easy! One last, minor detail: I had to gently hammer the chamber weld seam just a bit to add some clearance between it and the tire when unladen - it rubbed a bit when maneuvering bike around garage, so would do the same when unweighted during heavy braking while setting up for a turn!

I'd say the shock is a HUGE improvement to stock item, and is a joy on-track - with the added ride height being a big payoff dropping into turns. If you could get one w/ the same specs, except shorter by about 20-25mm, you'd have a very easy to mount, high-spec, fully adjustable rear suspension solution. Which would highlight the problems with the FRONT stock suspension - like a new pair of shoes shows how tattered your pants are... but isn't that just the way of life in general?

Here are the settings for rear ride height, shock length set to shortest length, for my sweet handling '98 NSR-150sp w/ above YSS MX302-285 TRCL shock; measurements taken between centerlines of axle & blinker mounting screw reference point:

54.4 cm unladen length

52.3 cm static sag length, w/ approx 150 lb (68 kg) rider w/ gear

02.1 cm sag (±3/4")

NEXT up, tires!!! would anyone care to share with me who has the best farang price on track rubber in BKK?

[MaiChai]

It must be on 285mm if its on shortest, which is 20mm more than the Honda Beat shock I installed. To be honest I have not had a chance to really test it out, since I rebuilt the other fork yesterday, and had to take the gf with me to Carrefore Ratchada (must be the best women watching location in BKK!). Need to ride it a bit, but it seemed pretty sweet yesterday. The front forks probably need a bit more oil and maybe the back is not as soft as I think? Not been well today; maybe go for a spin tomorrow.

I will compare your measurements against mine.

A couple more tips on replacing the oil seals:

The dust covers can be easily prised off with a flat blade screwdriver without damaging them; if they are pretty new try and reuse them (I did).

The inner oil seal will come off easily if you deliberately damage it; these are 50 baht so no sweat, and you can buy them pretty much everywhere. Firstly remove the Alan key bolt at the bottom of the fork. This is easily done by laying the fork on the floor (with some rags), putting the long end of the Allen key in, and supporting it outside the fork with a plug spanner, etc, to keep it central, then hit the Allan key with a hammer, which should be enough force to unlock it. You can use this technique when you reassemble. Lots of oil will poor out when you unscrew the bolt so have a container ready to collect it. Make sure to collect the copper washer as it seals in the oil. Now the inner seal: this is fitted very tightly against the bottom part of the fork. You can try and pull the fork out, but it will probably damage the teflon coating on the bushes (which wear down over time until no teflon is left). What you need to do is damage the seal with a thin screwdriver so it comes out easily; you force the blade between the seal and aluminium on the bottom of the fork by tapping it with a small hammer. You need to do this all the way round the seal. Then pulling the silver fork part will pull out the seal, the bushes and piston thingy at the bottom. You can probably use the wheel bolt to hold the bottom of the fork to the floor while you yank out the silver fork. Now you are done!

Reassembly is not just replacing worn parts, but ensuring new parts fit properly against parts that have some wear. This is the mistake I made when I rebuilt them a couple of weeks ago. For me the top bush, which I replaced, was not a close enough fit. You can put it round the fork, in an area where it normally operates (very shiny), and squeeze your thumb and finger around it. Then see how much movement there is. If its not a tight fit, you need to file the bush down a bit; say 0.5 to 0.8mm. I also replaced the bottom bushes and one of the piston rings; didn't need to mod these.

I have a parts book for the NSR150SP; I need to get round to scanning it in and putting it on scrib. Let me know if you need any part numbers, etc.

I think one of the guys mentioned there are loads of tyre places around Hualampong train station?

Edited March 25, 2011 by MaiChai

[jbeck]

If you want to go fast you have no choice but to to get the NSR Pro-arm model.

It has the potential to be MUCH faster, with a few simple mods.

The ride is nothing like the CBR at all.

It's a 15 year old bike and will need a lot of work if you like your stuff to be like new, but everything can be ordered form any Honda dealer.

If you are okay with going slow but want a brand new bike, super smooth, reliable, etc,,,, get a CBR.

If you can drive one of each, (you can at least rent the new CBR) it will help you a ton, you'll know immediately.

Driving my 150 is like being on a motogp bike compared to the CBR, that about sums it up. (of course I don't mean this literally)

For longer distances, cruising, touring, shopping, buy the cbr.

For an adrenaline rush every time you get on the bike, buy the NSR,and do a few mods. Or consider the CBR 250.

Here's a link to my page with some videos...http://thaimotorcycyle.wordpress.com/honda-nsr-150-sp/ for more info about the NSR and what to expect.

jeff