Buy An Nsr 150Sp Or A Cbr 150Fi

[Semper]

If you want to go fast you have no choice but to to get the NSR Pro-arm model.

It has the potential to be MUCH faster, with a few simple mods.

The ride is nothing like the CBR at all.

It's a 15 year old bike and will need a lot of work if you like your stuff to be like new, but everything can be ordered form any Honda dealer.

If you are okay with going slow but want a brand new bike, super smooth, reliable, etc,,,, get a CBR.

If you can drive one of each, (you can at least rent the new CBR) it will help you a ton, you'll know immediately.

Driving my 150 is like being on a motogp bike compared to the CBR, that about sums it up. (of course I don't mean this literally)

For longer distances, cruising, touring, shopping, buy the cbr.

For an adrenaline rush every time you get on the bike, buy the NSR,and do a few mods. Or consider the CBR 250.

Here's a link to my page with some videos...http://thaimotorcycyle.wordpress.com/honda-nsr-150-sp/ for more info about the NSR and what to expect.

jeff

I would like to add city driving to your list. I have an SP myself, and it's a bitch driving around in city traffic.

[jbeck]

If you want to go fast you have no choice but to to get the NSR Pro-arm model.

It has the potential to be MUCH faster, with a few simple mods.

The ride is nothing like the CBR at all.

It's a 15 year old bike and will need a lot of work if you like your stuff to be like new, but everything can be ordered form any Honda dealer.

If you are okay with going slow but want a brand new bike, super smooth, reliable, etc,,,, get a CBR.

If you can drive one of each, (you can at least rent the new CBR) it will help you a ton, you'll know immediately.

Driving my 150 is like being on a motogp bike compared to the CBR, that about sums it up. (of course I don't mean this literally)

For longer distances, cruising, touring, shopping, buy the cbr.

For an adrenaline rush every time you get on the bike, buy the NSR,and do a few mods. Or consider the CBR 250.

Here's a link to my page with some videos...http://thaimotorcycyle.wordpress.com/honda-nsr-150-sp/ for more info about the NSR and what to expect.

jeff

I would like to add city driving to your list. I have an SP myself, and it's a bitch driving around in city traffic.

Anyone wanting to sell their NSR proarm contact me via PM.

I guess you can shop without driving in the city, but I think shopping had it covered. Ok, add it.

It's not really a bitch, just annoying because you want to go fast and everyone is in your way and then you take risks accelerating to 120 in third gear in a few seconds from a standing start, when everyone else is gong 40 or 50 and driving like idiots.

have a nice day.

[MaiChai]

NSR150SPs seem to be increasing in price 2nd hand. Mind you RRs can be had much cheaper (and can be made to look almost as good).

My forks fix is still good. Bone dry. Trial and error on the oil level: Using the fork oil you buy in Thai bike shops (20baht; yellow bottle Daikyo) it seems I need about 240ml of oil for a soft ride (soft meaning you can fly over speed bumps without feeling you hit them). 270ml and the ride is pretty hard. Shop manual says 322 cm3 (surely mm?). Suppose it depends on the thickness of the oil and the age/stiffness of your springs? Springs seem to stiffen up over age (this is certainly the case with clutch springs). You might argue why soft, but most of my biking is around Bangkok with some pretty poor surfaces, so soft is good for my biking.

You can use a large syringe to fill and attach a piece of plastic hose to the syringe and wiggle it down the fork to drain off too much oil. You can do the draining off quite accurately; over extract oil and then squirt the excess back in until you get the amount you want to reduce by. I reduced 270ml to 240ml by extracting 30ml (get the idea?).

Edited April 4, 2011 by MaiChai

[jbeck]

NSR150SPs seem to be increasing in price 2nd hand. Mind you RRs can be had much cheaper (and can be made to look almost as good).

My forks fix is still good. Bone dry. Trial and error on the oil level: Using the fork oil you buy in Thai bike shops (20baht; yellow bottle Daikyo) it seems I need about 240ml of oil for a soft ride (soft meaning you can fly over speed bumps without feeling you hit them). 270ml and the ride is pretty hard. Shop manual says 322 cm3 (surely mm?). Suppose it depends on the thickness of the oil and the age/stiffness of your springs? Springs seem to stiffen up over age (this is certainly the case with clutch springs). You might argue why soft, but most of my biking is around Bangkok with some pretty poor surfaces, so soft is good for my biking.

You can use a large syringe to fill and attach a piece of plastic hose to the syringe and wiggle it down the fork to drain off too much oil. You can do the draining off quite accurately; over extract oil and then squirt the excess back in until you get the amount you want to reduce by. I reduced 270ml to 240ml by extracting 30ml (get the idea?).

As an ex-racer/mechanic, most of this 'information' does not make sense. So, those listening, beware. Grain of salt. Advice given here should be taken with careful consideration.

Example- even the most expensive fork oil is cheap, so little is needed, it needs to be changed very infrequently, why use the cheapest available?

SP and RR's are not about looks, but the SP looks WAY better - t's about technical improvements (SP), power output(SP), older age(RR), parts availability(SP), and more wear and tear and less care (SS).

[MaiChai]

Just using locally available oil. I don't have access to race materials nor do I want to pay those prices. For example your adjustable gas shock cost more than I paid for my bike. Depends on what you want. I am just sharing information about repairs to an old bike that in my opinion does not warrent alot of money spending on. Using local materials, spare parts and tools available. Each to his own. Personally if I wanted a fast bike, then I would look for a bigger 4 stroke bike; something around a 600cc. For my biking around Bangkok, this bike is fine, and I won't be too upset if it gets nicked.

If you are looking to build a race spec bike, then my experiences would not be useful to you. I can understand your point of view too. I am just sharing my experiences in our community, hoping it may be useful for someone. I did find the info on your site useful; it gives an idea of what can be done with the bike. So there you go, information sharing is good?

Edited April 5, 2011 by MaiChai

[bbradsby]

OK, just did a track day last Sunday at Bira on my NSR-150sp. And I'm still grinning, and a bit sore from throwing the lil screamer around the track & hangin off. With real tires, this thing could embarrass some serious sport bikes on the Thai tracks with their short straights. DEFINITELY bought the right bike for Thailand fun.

Also, I don't get the poster's point about the NSR being a problem in traffic. I breeze through with the scooters, as the bike is just as narrow, and the lock-to-lock works fine in BKK. What specifically is the issue? To me the NSR is the ultimate Thai Urban Assault Vehicle.

[curious17]

Bugger, I am confused. I bought a yss cbr shock and its 260mm not 265mm. Not the same as the yss site. Then again the site says the SP shock should be 260mm but in fact mine was fitted with a 265mm. I am not sure if I should fit it and just try it out or take it back and try and get a longer one? Paid 850 baht. Your shock will be much more expensive. Certainly the RR one isn't good enough because I hit road bumps when the gf is on the back; anyway the bike is like a dog now.

I have rebuilt the forks once already. New seals and teflon coated bushes. However they still leak, so figure its not the seals/dust caps. Trouble is the upper bushes were wider than the forks meaning sidewards movement and the oil gets squirted out through the gap; either the bushes are not right or more likely the fork is worn down. So what I did yesterday is I forced open the top bush with a screwdriver and filed 0.8mm off the edge. This means it can get a closer fit round the fork. Then I cut a strip of tin off a Birdy can and slide that between the bush and the fork body. I kept cutting it down until I get a good fit with the bush and fork. Only did one for as a test (the worse leaking one); it takes much more time than a rebuild since you need to get the sizing right. Put 200ml of oil in it (lowish); done about 10km since and so far its dry. It would not be the first time I have had Honda Thailand parts that are not up to spec, and anyway you would think they would do different sizes to cater for wear? I will test it out a couple of weeks before doing the other one. Otherwise the alternative is probably new forks.

Hello MayChai and Bradsby,

Please tell me where I can get Honda FSX 150's parts? sorry, I know it is not the right thread to ask

thanks

[jbeck]

Bugger, I am confused. I bought a yss cbr shock and its 260mm not 265mm. Not the same as the yss site. Then again the site says the SP shock should be 260mm but in fact mine was fitted with a 265mm. I am not sure if I should fit it and just try it out or take it back and try and get a longer one? Paid 850 baht. Your shock will be much more expensive. Certainly the RR one isn't good enough because I hit road bumps when the gf is on the back; anyway the bike is like a dog now.

I have rebuilt the forks once already. New seals and teflon coated bushes. However they still leak, so figure its not the seals/dust caps. Trouble is the upper bushes were wider than the forks meaning sidewards movement and the oil gets squirted out through the gap; either the bushes are not right or more likely the fork is worn down. So what I did yesterday is I forced open the top bush with a screwdriver and filed 0.8mm off the edge. This means it can get a closer fit round the fork. Then I cut a strip of tin off a Birdy can and slide that between the bush and the fork body. I kept cutting it down until I get a good fit with the bush and fork. Only did one for as a test (the worse leaking one); it takes much more time than a rebuild since you need to get the sizing right. Put 200ml of oil in it (lowish); done about 10km since and so far its dry. It would not be the first time I have had Honda Thailand parts that are not up to spec, and anyway you would think they would do different sizes to cater for wear? I will test it out a couple of weeks before doing the other one. Otherwise the alternative is probably new forks.

Hello MayChai and Bradsby,

Please tell me where I can get Honda FSX 150's parts? sorry, I know it is not the right thread to ask

thanks

Unless you enjoy this sort of thing, sell it and get an NSR 150 SP or something that you can just ride!! Nobody should have to do anything special just to get the stock forks to work.

What you describe is 'hack' repairs, what if the oil leaks on to the front tire in a turn?

[curious17]

Bugger, I am confused. I bought a yss cbr shock and its 260mm not 265mm. Not the same as the yss site. Then again the site says the SP shock should be 260mm but in fact mine was fitted with a 265mm. I am not sure if I should fit it and just try it out or take it back and try and get a longer one? Paid 850 baht. Your shock will be much more expensive. Certainly the RR one isn't good enough because I hit road bumps when the gf is on the back; anyway the bike is like a dog now.

I have rebuilt the forks once already. New seals and teflon coated bushes. However they still leak, so figure its not the seals/dust caps. Trouble is the upper bushes were wider than the forks meaning sidewards movement and the oil gets squirted out through the gap; either the bushes are not right or more likely the fork is worn down. So what I did yesterday is I forced open the top bush with a screwdriver and filed 0.8mm off the edge. This means it can get a closer fit round the fork. Then I cut a strip of tin off a Birdy can and slide that between the bush and the fork body. I kept cutting it down until I get a good fit with the bush and fork. Only did one for as a test (the worse leaking one); it takes much more time than a rebuild since you need to get the sizing right. Put 200ml of oil in it (lowish); done about 10km since and so far its dry. It would not be the first time I have had Honda Thailand parts that are not up to spec, and anyway you would think they would do different sizes to cater for wear? I will test it out a couple of weeks before doing the other one. Otherwise the alternative is probably new forks.

Hello MayChai and Bradsby,

Please tell me where I can get Honda FSX 150's parts? sorry, I know it is not the right thread to ask

thanks

Unless you enjoy this sort of thing, sell it and get an NSR 150 SP or something that you can just ride!! Nobody should have to do anything special just to get the stock forks to work.

What you describe is 'hack' repairs, what if the oil leaks on to the front tire in a turn?

I got your point but Im not going to repair the front forks, I just want to buy front fender , cowl of this bike and hoping somebody will tell me where I can get the parts... thanks anyway. if you wanna help, tell me where is the Honda part shop that still have the parts available? detail please how to get there, name of the store, the address...

[jbeck]

Bugger, I am confused. I bought a yss cbr shock and its 260mm not 265mm. Not the same as the yss site. Then again the site says the SP shock should be 260mm but in fact mine was fitted with a 265mm. I am not sure if I should fit it and just try it out or take it back and try and get a longer one? Paid 850 baht. Your shock will be much more expensive. Certainly the RR one isn't good enough because I hit road bumps when the gf is on the back; anyway the bike is like a dog now.

I have rebuilt the forks once already. New seals and teflon coated bushes. However they still leak, so figure its not the seals/dust caps. Trouble is the upper bushes were wider than the forks meaning sidewards movement and the oil gets squirted out through the gap; either the bushes are not right or more likely the fork is worn down. So what I did yesterday is I forced open the top bush with a screwdriver and filed 0.8mm off the edge. This means it can get a closer fit round the fork. Then I cut a strip of tin off a Birdy can and slide that between the bush and the fork body. I kept cutting it down until I get a good fit with the bush and fork. Only did one for as a test (the worse leaking one); it takes much more time than a rebuild since you need to get the sizing right. Put 200ml of oil in it (lowish); done about 10km since and so far its dry. It would not be the first time I have had Honda Thailand parts that are not up to spec, and anyway you would think they would do different sizes to cater for wear? I will test it out a couple of weeks before doing the other one. Otherwise the alternative is probably new forks.

Hello MayChai and Bradsby,

Please tell me where I can get Honda FSX 150's parts? sorry, I know it is not the right thread to ask

thanks

Unless you enjoy this sort of thing, sell it and get an NSR 150 SP or something that you can just ride!! Nobody should have to do anything special just to get the stock forks to work.

What you describe is 'hack' repairs, what if the oil leaks on to the front tire in a turn?

I got your point but Im not going to repair the front forks, I just want to buy front fender , cowl of this bike and hoping somebody will tell me where I can get the parts... thanks anyway. if you wanna help, tell me where is the Honda part shop that still have the parts available? detail please how to get there, name of the store, the address...

ANY DECENT HONDA shop with parts dept can order parts from bangkok if they don't have them in stock.

[bbradsby]

uh, what's an FSX? Yes, wrong thread. Anyway...Almost all parts for the old NSRsp's are still available and often made in Thailand. So an CBRFSXRRwhatever, assuming its newer than '98, should still be easily available, eh? call a dealer.

And I HIGHLY recommend Sumet Cycles for a better than Western standard of care in customer service & English communication in the parts they've taken the time & pain to source for me recently.

In the US at least, most bike shop parts counters seem to be manned[?] by attitudinal, hung-over idiots who'd rather see you dead than walking into their hazy stupors and asking them to actually look something up for order.

[MaiChai]

FSX was a revamped late model NSR that has similar styling to the LS125. I saw one around here in Huey Kwang; looked quite nice. Google 'Honda FSX150'. Any decent Honda main dealer should help you out; if they have a decent sized workshop they should be used to getting parts!

I don't see why resizing new bushes to fit old forks is a 'hack'. New bushes are designed for new forks, if you put them on old forks they will be too big. Quite simple. As a race mechanic you will know that things don't always fit together properly and adaptation is sometimes required. Its certainly not the first time I have had to modify parts (including so called original parts). The alternative is new forks or inner forks; much more expensive. If someone chooses to go the more expensive route then its their choice, so I am not sure why you are so rude about my fix? Its not as if I am forcing anyone to do anything? Forks had been leaking for months and the oil doesn't end up on the tyres. If anything the oil gets in the brake pads and reduces your braking as it soaks into the pads. That's what I experienced (and also on another bike that I replaced seals on).

[jbeck]

FSX was a revamped late model NSR that has similar styling to the LS125. I saw one around here in Huey Kwang; looked quite nice. Google 'Honda FSX150'. Any decent Honda main dealer should help you out; if they have a decent sized workshop they should be used to getting parts!

I don't see why resizing new bushes to fit old forks is a 'hack'. New bushes are designed for new forks, if you put them on old forks they will be too big. Quite simple. As a race mechanic you will know that things don't always fit together properly and adaptation is sometimes required. Its certainly not the first time I have had to modify parts (including so called original parts). The alternative is new forks or inner forks; much more expensive. If someone chooses to go the more expensive route then its their choice, so I am not sure why you are so rude about my fix? Its not as if I am forcing anyone to do anything? Forks had been leaking for months and the oil doesn't end up on the tyres. If anything the oil gets in the brake pads and reduces your braking as it soaks into the pads. That's what I experienced (and also on another bike that I replaced seals on).

so, what's the difference in price? Didn't you want advice? I offered straightforward advice, I was not rude. And my advice was to buy the new proper parts. Rude? Ok, whatever makes you happy.

Internal fork parts are so cheap I got nsr fork springs for 60 baht each from Honda.

Good luck (again: straightforward, not rude)

[bbradsby]

The NSR-150sp is a quick, fun, reliable & sure handler. And with a suspension upgrade & geometry set-up (YSS, per previous posts) and proper tires, is sure to be a scream & big surprise to larger bikes in track corners! As for tires, I've found in the manufacturer's websites - not necessarily available in LOS - as follows. Front stock is a 90 width, with some clearance to use a larger tire. The rear swingarm more limits tire oversize selection by its close tolerances on the left side. Stock is a 120 width. HOnda list the stock tires as being IRC 90/80/17 & 120/80/17. Let me know if you have any thoughts/alternatives to these

Bridgestone:

Sports: BT-39ss: 90/80/17 & 120/80/17 (don't like the 80 aspect ratio... too tall a sidewall)

Sports: BT-39: 110/70/17 [may fit front...]

Track slicks: R0Z1 90/580/R17 & 120/595/R17 (purpose-built for 125 GP racing)

Pirelli:

Sports: Sport Demon 100/80/17 & 130/70/17 (not sure of cornering feel with this mix of 80 front & 70 rear aspect ratios)

Street/sport?: MT-75: 90/80/17 & 13/70/17 (again, mixed aspect ratios; also, would love to hear any reviews of these tires since Pirelli's website description is vague to say the least)

Jeff, what rubber ya running and where did you get your intake for the 32mm carb? If I could add some ponies w/ a bit of effort short of sistering three engines together ala the old Kawi H2 widowmaker... hey, there's an idea!

[jbeck]

The NSR-150sp is a quick, fun, reliable & sure handler. And with a suspension upgrade & geometry set-up (YSS, per previous posts) and proper tires, is sure to be a scream & big surprise to larger bikes in track corners! As for tires, I've found in the manufacturer's websites - not necessarily available in LOS - as follows. Front stock is a 90 width, with some clearance to use a larger tire. The rear swingarm more limits tire oversize selection by its close tolerances on the left side. Stock is a 120 width. HOnda list the stock tires as being IRC 90/80/17 & 120/80/17. Let me know if you have any thoughts/alternatives to these

Bridgestone:

Sports: BT-39ss: 90/80/17 & 120/80/17 (don't like the 80 aspect ratio... too tall a sidewall)

Sports: BT-39: 110/70/17 [may fit front...]

Track slicks: R0Z1 90/580/R17 & 120/595/R17 (purpose-built for 125 GP racing)

Pirelli:

Sports: Sport Demon 100/80/17 & 130/70/17 (not sure of cornering feel with this mix of 80 front & 70 rear aspect ratios)

Street/sport?: MT-75: 90/80/17 & 13/70/17 (again, mixed aspect ratios; also, would love to hear any reviews of these tires since Pirelli's website description is vague to say the least)

Jeff, what rubber ya running and where did you get your intake for the 32mm carb? If I could add some ponies w/ a bit of effort short of sistering three engines together ala the old Kawi H2 widowmaker... hey, there's an idea!

Can you PM me this same post - we can take this discussion to regular email... and if you want, include your email and phone number.

thanks

Jeff

[MaiChai]

I found a carb oversize kit here: http://nsr-world.com/tuning/150-tuning/150%20tuning/carburetion/. Maybe this is where jbeck got is carb kit from? Tempted to buy it.

[Loz]

I have an old NSR 150 and its a bloody hoot!! Not much out there that would catch it on the twisties. I would love to take it on the track. Anywhere I can do that?

CBR is a very civilized bike, but the NSR is to Thailand what the GSXR 750 is to British back road hoolies!

It's proper quick!

[curious17]

uh, what's an FSX? Yes, wrong thread. Anyway...Almost all parts for the old NSRsp's are still available and often made in Thailand. So an CBRFSXRRwhatever, assuming its newer than '98, should still be easily available, eh? call a dealer.

And I HIGHLY recommend Sumet Cycles for a better than Western standard of care in customer service & English communication in the parts they've taken the time & pain to source for me recently.

In the US at least, most bike shop parts counters seem to be manned[?] by attitudinal, hung-over idiots who'd rather see you dead than walking into their hazy stupors and asking them to actually look something up for order.

Brad, please tell me where are "Sumet Cycles" and "Western Standart" located? Are they in Bangkok? if they are not, please tell me the Honda shop which located in Bangkok. I prefer to meet CS which can communicate in english too. Almost all parts for Honda FSX are the same as NSR SP, that's why I used this thread. Are you US citizen but lived in Thailand?

Thanks in advance

[curious17]

...Do you have an idea of the length of your current setting? I assume your shock is adjustable 285 thru to 302mm?

My MX302-285 TRCL (remote reservoir, fully adjustable) length is adjusted to its shortest setting, whatever that is... not sure as it's been a few months since I measured & installed it. Let me get some assistance to hold the bike and I'll get you the unladen & static sag lengths. Will say the shock is not the NSR-spec'd unit, and it's added length almost prevented it from fitting, without removal of swingarm, into the top shock mount flange at the frame cross member. But I don't give up easy! One last, minor detail: I had to gently hammer the chamber weld seam just a bit to add some clearance between it and the tire when unladen - it rubbed a bit when maneuvering bike around garage, so would do the same when unweighted during heavy braking while setting up for a turn!

I'd say the shock is a HUGE improvement to stock item, and is a joy on-track - with the added ride height being a big payoff dropping into turns. If you could get one w/ the same specs, except shorter by about 20-25mm, you'd have a very easy to mount, high-spec, fully adjustable rear suspension solution. Which would highlight the problems with the FRONT stock suspension - like a new pair of shoes shows how tattered your pants are... but isn't that just the way of life in general?

Here are the settings for rear ride height, shock length set to shortest length, for my sweet handling '98 NSR-150sp w/ above YSS MX302-285 TRCL shock; measurements taken between centerlines of axle & blinker mounting screw reference point:

54.4 cm unladen length

52.3 cm static sag length, w/ approx 150 lb (68 kg) rider w/ gear

02.1 cm sag (±3/4")

NEXT up, tires!!! would anyone care to share with me who has the best farang price on track rubber in BKK?

Brad, will you share your bike's pic with us? and if you dont mind, I want to see the close up pic of the shock after it fitted in the bike.

[curious17]

It must be on 285mm if its on shortest, which is 20mm more than the Honda Beat shock I installed. To be honest I have not had a chance to really test it out, since I rebuilt the other fork yesterday, and had to take the gf with me to Carrefore Ratchada (must be the best women watching location in BKK!). Need to ride it a bit, but it seemed pretty sweet yesterday. The front forks probably need a bit more oil and maybe the back is not as soft as I think? Not been well today; maybe go for a spin tomorrow.

I will compare your measurements against mine.

A couple more tips on replacing the oil seals:

The dust covers can be easily prised off with a flat blade screwdriver without damaging them; if they are pretty new try and reuse them (I did).

The inner oil seal will come off easily if you deliberately damage it; these are 50 baht so no sweat, and you can buy them pretty much everywhere. Firstly remove the Alan key bolt at the bottom of the fork. This is easily done by laying the fork on the floor (with some rags), putting the long end of the Allen key in, and supporting it outside the fork with a plug spanner, etc, to keep it central, then hit the Allan key with a hammer, which should be enough force to unlock it. You can use this technique when you reassemble. Lots of oil will poor out when you unscrew the bolt so have a container ready to collect it. Make sure to collect the copper washer as it seals in the oil. Now the inner seal: this is fitted very tightly against the bottom part of the fork. You can try and pull the fork out, but it will probably damage the teflon coating on the bushes (which wear down over time until no teflon is left). What you need to do is damage the seal with a thin screwdriver so it comes out easily; you force the blade between the seal and aluminium on the bottom of the fork by tapping it with a small hammer. You need to do this all the way round the seal. Then pulling the silver fork part will pull out the seal, the bushes and piston thingy at the bottom. You can probably use the wheel bolt to hold the bottom of the fork to the floor while you yank out the silver fork. Now you are done!

Reassembly is not just replacing worn parts, but ensuring new parts fit properly against parts that have some wear. This is the mistake I made when I rebuilt them a couple of weeks ago. For me the top bush, which I replaced, was not a close enough fit. You can put it round the fork, in an area where it normally operates (very shiny), and squeeze your thumb and finger around it. Then see how much movement there is. If its not a tight fit, you need to file the bush down a bit; say 0.5 to 0.8mm. I also replaced the bottom bushes and one of the piston rings; didn't need to mod these.

I have a parts book for the NSR150SP; I need to get round to scanning it in and putting it on scrib. Let me know if you need any part numbers, etc.

I think one of the guys mentioned there are loads of tyre places around Hualampong train station?

Maichai, will you share the NSR SP parts book? I need the parts number. if you dont mind, please email the parts book. do you have the FSX's parts book?

Thanks in advance

[MaiChai]

Don't have the FSX parts book. This bike is pretty rare. As far as I can see its an RR with different farings and plastics. Anyone know any different?

SP Parts book will take time to scan in using a 1 pass scanner (boring). It needs to be fed through a photocopy scanner, which I don't have access to at the moment. What part numbers do you need?