Pajero Delivery Time

[toan6082]

wanting to order pajero for delivery in july. does anyone know how long the wait is. the dealer said 4 weeks but toyotas are taking 3-4 months because of problems in japan. anyone having to wait long periods from mitsu.thanks

[MoonRiverOasis]

Mitsubishi Thailand production has so far been unaffected by part problems out of Japan, but according to an official statement at the start of this week, the situation will be re-evaluated in the middle of this month. Reading between the lines, that means that production is likely to be scaled down then, they're just not yet sure to what degree (it would be hard to judge right now, given their massive sales growth).

Most Mitsu dealers are well-stocked with both Pajero Sport and Triton models, and can offer immediate delivery. If the dealership you're talking to doesn't have stock they're one of (few) the smaller ones, so my advice would be shop elsehwere anyway.

If looking to buy in July, I would expect a waiting queue, as stocks will start to dwindle down as production cuts come in at the middle of this month. Perhaps worthwhile finidng a dealer that has stock and seeing if you can reserve one?

[Jebhead]

I waited 6 weeks, ordered mid Feb, picked up 2nd April...

JH

[toan6082]

Mitsubishi Thailand production has so far been unaffected by part problems out of Japan, but according to an official statement at the start of this week, the situation will be re-evaluated in the middle of this month. Reading between the lines, that means that production is likely to be scaled down then, they're just not yet sure to what degree (it would be hard to judge right now, given their massive sales growth).

Most Mitsu dealers are well-stocked with both Pajero Sport and Triton models, and can offer immediate delivery. If the dealership you're talking to doesn't have stock they're one of (few) the smaller ones, so my advice would be shop elsehwere anyway.

If looking to buy in July, I would expect a waiting queue, as stocks will start to dwindle down as production cuts come in at the middle of this month. Perhaps worthwhile finidng a dealer that has stock and seeing if you can reserve one?

thanks mro your a legend

[Forethat]

Mitsubishi Thailand production has so far been unaffected by part problems out of Japan, but according to an official statement at the start of this week, the situation will be re-evaluated in the middle of this month. Reading between the lines, that means that production is likely to be scaled down then, they're just not yet sure to what degree (it would be hard to judge right now, given their massive sales growth).

Most Mitsu dealers are well-stocked with both Pajero Sport and Triton models, and can offer immediate delivery. If the dealership you're talking to doesn't have stock they're one of (few) the smaller ones, so my advice would be shop elsehwere anyway.

If looking to buy in July, I would expect a waiting queue, as stocks will start to dwindle down as production cuts come in at the middle of this month. Perhaps worthwhile finidng a dealer that has stock and seeing if you can reserve one?

One Mitsu dealer I spoke to earlier this week has 10 pending orders for Pajeros....

[egypte]

Just signed a Purchase order on June 29th, delivery set for July 20th (Though they did not mention the year.. ).

That order is placed with Mitsubishi Chiamg Mai.

The delays will depend of the selected model and the color mainly. No delays for standard colors (White, Black, dark grey).

[pampal]

Krisda Mitsubishi in Chaeng Wattana has Pajeros for immediate delivery.

[Briggsy]

A month ago, I was told the delivery time was 2-3 weeks.

2 weeks ago, this had gone up to a month.

[MoonRiverOasis]

A month ago, I was told the delivery time was 2-3 weeks.

2 weeks ago, this had gone up to a month.

Sounds like you're getting the run-around.. If you're tired of waiting, give MMTH a call and ask them to refer you to a dealer with cars in-stock.

[Briggsy]

A month ago, I was told the delivery time was 2-3 weeks.

2 weeks ago, this had gone up to a month.

Sounds like you're getting the run-around.. If you're tired of waiting, give MMTH a call and ask them to refer you to a dealer with cars in-stock.

Actually, I am in no hurry. This is a smaller dealership in Chonburi province. The sales woman was knowledgeable and helpful but I suspect she wanted me to place an order so the "waiting time" was a push, and perhaps exaggeration, to try to get me to put down a deposit there and then. I have no problem in waiting 3 weeks if necessary. I am still mulling it over.

[katabeachbum]

I have made 5k baht deposit on a white pearl 2,5 GT today, and been promised 3 weeks in Phuket.

10% down, and 1,9% on 48 months

free

Lamina film

floormats one set fabric, one set rubber

full fueltank

plateframe

windwisors x 4

Insurance 80% repair any garage, new original parts

tax reg plate book

is the deal ok, or should I work harder on it?

expecting like 50k for 20 Lenzo/Nitto, how much should I get for the stock crap 16 Duellers?

[MoonRiverOasis]

I have made 5k baht deposit on a white pearl 2,5 GT today, and been promised 3 weeks in Phuket.

10% down, and 1,9% on 48 months

free

Lamina film

floormats one set fabric, one set rubber

full fueltank

plateframe

windwisors x 4

Insurance 80% repair any garage, new original parts

tax reg plate book

is the deal ok, or should I work harder on it?

expecting like 50k for 20 Lenzo/Nitto, how much should I get for the stock crap 16 Duellers?

Work harder!

1.3% should be possible with 10% down, and I would expect the following freebies as well, but these may be harder to negotiate at a provincial dealer:

Reversing Camera

Garmin GPS

Side Mirror covers with LED

Rustproofing

As for wheels, you should get 22-25K for the OEM wheels/tires so long as they have < 1000KM on them. 20's with tires will cost between 36K and 70K (before trade-in) depending on whether they're chrome/imported wheels, and what tires you go for.

At 36K (10-13K changeover) I'd recommend a Lenso wheel, and Nangkang 265/50R20 (a Yokohama sub-brand) for tires.

At the top end, whatever you prefer for wheel, and for tires, Yokohama Advan S.T (ultimate), Yoko Parada Spec-X (excellent) or Yokohama AVID SUV (v.good) in that order.

If dealer does not have Yoko, the Toyo's would be my next choice - I'd put them on par with the AVID's for perfomance, but the cool thing is they're available in 275/55R20 oversize fitment, so very comfortable..

IMPORTANT! You will absolutely need hub rings when fitting aftermarket wheels to a Mitsu, otherwise you'll be supported only by the wheel studs - make sure they fit these! Machined alloy hub rings normally run about 600-800 Baht for a set of 4. Also, as noted a while back, consider getting an on-car balance done - the difference is huge - you'll need to go to a truck tire specialist for this, and it'll cost ~ 600 Baht/wheel (do the front only). Note than an on-car balance will be required for safe/comfortable high speed driving if the offset of new wheels pushes out the overall track.

And lastly, welcome to the Dark Side

May the force be with you

hehe

Edited July 28, 2011 by MoonRiverOasis

[katabeachbum]

I have made 5k baht deposit on a white pearl 2,5 GT today, and been promised 3 weeks in Phuket.

10% down, and 1,9% on 48 months

free

Lamina film

floormats one set fabric, one set rubber

full fueltank

plateframe

windwisors x 4

Insurance 80% repair any garage, new original parts

tax reg plate book

is the deal ok, or should I work harder on it?

expecting like 50k for 20 Lenzo/Nitto, how much should I get for the stock crap 16 Duellers?

Work harder!

1.3% should be possible with 10% down, and I would expect the following freebies as well, but these may be harder to negotiate at a provincial dealer:

Reversing Camera

Garmin GPS

Side Mirror covers with LED

Rustproofing

As for wheels, you should get 22-25K for the OEM wheels/tires so long as they have < 1000KM on them. 20's with tires will cost between 36K and 70K (before trade-in) depending on whether they're chrome/imported wheels, and what tires you go for.

At 36K (10-13K changeover) I'd recommend a Lenso wheel, and Nangkang 265/50R20 (a Yokohama sub-brand) for tires.

At the top end, whatever you prefer for wheel, and for tires, Yokohama Advan S.T (ultimate), Yoko Parada Spec-X (excellent) or Yokohama AVID SUV (v.good) in that order.

If dealer does not have Yoko, the Toyo's would be my next choice - I'd put them on par with the AVID's for perfomance, but the cool thing is they're available in 275/55R20 oversize fitment, so very comfortable..

IMPORTANT! You will absolutely need hub rings when fitting aftermarket wheels to a Mitsu, otherwise you'll be supported only by the wheel studs - make sure they fit these! Machined alloy hub rings normally run about 600-800 Baht for a set of 4. Also, as noted a while back, consider getting an on-car balance done - the difference is huge - you'll need to go to a truck tire specialist for this, and it'll cost ~ 600 Baht/wheel (do the front only). Note than an on-car balance will be required for safe/comfortable high speed driving if the offset of new wheels pushes out the overall track.

And lastly, welcome to the Dark Side

May the force be with you

hehe

great advice, thanks :jap:

My limit for buying in Province rather than BKK is usually 15k baht, IOW accept 15k baht higher price/less freebies in Phuket as thats the cost of buying/ travelling to BKK

realizing I wont get a Ranger 3,2 Wildtrack this year, and bored of old (2007) temp shit and need one more car asap. Pajero is best choise at this price/segment, and I really dont care what name a vehicle carries as long as specs are what I want

going off topic, in addition to pressure chip, does cat removal make a huge difference? I mean lot of hazzle to remove for each service and very visible in Pajero, and if power improvement isnt that much, i will use chips only.

[MoonRiverOasis]

great advice, thanks :jap:

My limit for buying in Province rather than BKK is usually 15k baht, IOW accept 15k baht higher price/less freebies in Phuket as thats the cost of buying/ travelling to BKK

realizing I wont get a Ranger 3,2 Wildtrack this year, and bored of old (2007) temp shit and need one more car asap. Pajero is best choise at this price/segment, and I really dont care what name a vehicle carries as long as specs are what I want

going off topic, in addition to pressure chip, does cat removal make a huge difference? I mean lot of hazzle to remove for each service and very visible in Pajero, and if power improvement isnt that much, i will use chips only.

Yep, cost of those extras I noted would only be about 15K, so all even.

Dump pipe (cat replacement) and EGR block both increase low-range torque and improve power througout the rev range - my guess is +12-15% at the low end, reducing to about +5% at the upper end with both combined. Probably the biggest consideration is the noise though - the dump pipe spools the turbo sooner and much, much harder, and the turbo whine becomes *very* audible (like, hear it 2 soi's away audible) - so that's either a negative or a positive, depending on your POV

My local mechanic removes & refits both for 100 Baht around shecduled Mitsu servicing, and with 2 men on the job it only takes about 15 mins, so that's not such a biggie.

Also consider a K&N - it's worth another 8-10%, but comes at the expense of a little more induction noise.

Bottom line is the chip is the single most effective upgrade with +20% torque, DIY fit/remove, and no negative effect on noise levels..

[katabeachbum]

I have made 5k baht deposit on a white pearl 2,5 GT today, and been promised 3 weeks in Phuket.

10% down, and 1,9% on 48 months

free

Lamina film

floormats one set fabric, one set rubber

full fueltank

plateframe

windwisors x 4

Insurance 80% repair any garage, new original parts

tax reg plate book

is the deal ok, or should I work harder on it?

expecting like 50k for 20 Lenzo/Nitto, how much should I get for the stock crap 16 Duellers?

Work harder!

1.3% should be possible with 10% down, and I would expect the following freebies as well, but these may be harder to negotiate at a provincial dealer:

Reversing Camera

Garmin GPS

Side Mirror covers with LED

Rustproofing

As for wheels, you should get 22-25K for the OEM wheels/tires so long as they have < 1000KM on them. 20's with tires will cost between 36K and 70K (before trade-in) depending on whether they're chrome/imported wheels, and what tires you go for.

At 36K (10-13K changeover) I'd recommend a Lenso wheel, and Nangkang 265/50R20 (a Yokohama sub-brand) for tires.

At the top end, whatever you prefer for wheel, and for tires, Yokohama Advan S.T (ultimate), Yoko Parada Spec-X (excellent) or Yokohama AVID SUV (v.good) in that order.

If dealer does not have Yoko, the Toyo's would be my next choice - I'd put them on par with the AVID's for perfomance, but the cool thing is they're available in 275/55R20 oversize fitment, so very comfortable..

IMPORTANT! You will absolutely need hub rings when fitting aftermarket wheels to a Mitsu, otherwise you'll be supported only by the wheel studs - make sure they fit these! Machined alloy hub rings normally run about 600-800 Baht for a set of 4. Also, as noted a while back, consider getting an on-car balance done - the difference is huge - you'll need to go to a truck tire specialist for this, and it'll cost ~ 600 Baht/wheel (do the front only). Note than an on-car balance will be required for safe/comfortable high speed driving if the offset of new wheels pushes out the overall track.

And lastly, welcome to the Dark Side

May the force be with you

hehe

5555, Mitsubishi Phuket :lol: .

Second time I make a deal with them.

Today they change to 10% down and 3,30% interest or 15% down and 2,49% interest. 10% down accepted by Tanachart, loan docs signed, and Mitsu Phuket doesnt want to complete.

I canselled deal of course, deposit refund next week by check

Can you advice me where to get the above deal, not my first purchase out of Province

[MoonRiverOasis]

I have made 5k baht deposit on a white pearl 2,5 GT today, and been promised 3 weeks in Phuket.

10% down, and 1,9% on 48 months

free

Lamina film

floormats one set fabric, one set rubber

full fueltank

plateframe

windwisors x 4

Insurance 80% repair any garage, new original parts

tax reg plate book

is the deal ok, or should I work harder on it?

expecting like 50k for 20 Lenzo/Nitto, how much should I get for the stock crap 16 Duellers?

Work harder!

1.3% should be possible with 10% down, and I would expect the following freebies as well, but these may be harder to negotiate at a provincial dealer:

Reversing Camera

Garmin GPS

Side Mirror covers with LED

Rustproofing

As for wheels, you should get 22-25K for the OEM wheels/tires so long as they have < 1000KM on them. 20's with tires will cost between 36K and 70K (before trade-in) depending on whether they're chrome/imported wheels, and what tires you go for.

At 36K (10-13K changeover) I'd recommend a Lenso wheel, and Nangkang 265/50R20 (a Yokohama sub-brand) for tires.

At the top end, whatever you prefer for wheel, and for tires, Yokohama Advan S.T (ultimate), Yoko Parada Spec-X (excellent) or Yokohama AVID SUV (v.good) in that order.

If dealer does not have Yoko, the Toyo's would be my next choice - I'd put them on par with the AVID's for perfomance, but the cool thing is they're available in 275/55R20 oversize fitment, so very comfortable..

IMPORTANT! You will absolutely need hub rings when fitting aftermarket wheels to a Mitsu, otherwise you'll be supported only by the wheel studs - make sure they fit these! Machined alloy hub rings normally run about 600-800 Baht for a set of 4. Also, as noted a while back, consider getting an on-car balance done - the difference is huge - you'll need to go to a truck tire specialist for this, and it'll cost ~ 600 Baht/wheel (do the front only). Note than an on-car balance will be required for safe/comfortable high speed driving if the offset of new wheels pushes out the overall track.

And lastly, welcome to the Dark Side

May the force be with you

hehe

5555, Mitsubishi Phuket :lol: .

Second time I make a deal with them.

Today they change to 10% down and 3,30% interest or 15% down and 2,49% interest. 10% down accepted by Tanachart, loan docs signed, and Mitsu Phuket doesnt want to complete.

I canselled deal of course, deposit refund next week by check

Can you advice me where to get the above deal, not my first purchase out of Province

Give Khun Name (Nem) a call: 08 0582 4492

At sticker price, is offering:

• 1st class insurance
• Por Ror Bor/Road Tax
• Rustproofing
• Paint protection package
• License plate covers
• Floor mats
• 3M Window Tint
• Reversing Camera
• 4-piece body kit
• Rear bumper garnish
• Rear cargo area floor tray
• Side mirror covers with LED
• Weathershields

[nontabury]

5555, Mitsubishi Phuket :lol: .

Second time I make a deal with them.

Today they change to 10% down and 3,30% interest or 15% down and 2,49% interest. 10% down accepted by Tanachart, loan docs signed, and Mitsu Phuket doesnt want to complete.

I canselled deal of course, deposit refund next week by check

Can you advice me where to get the above deal, not my first purchase out of Province

Hope you receive you're deposit back, heard many cases with Farangs having to withdraw from a car deal due to the Thai moving the goalpost,very rarely do they recive their deposit back.

[katabeachbum]

great advice, thanks :jap:

My limit for buying in Province rather than BKK is usually 15k baht, IOW accept 15k baht higher price/less freebies in Phuket as thats the cost of buying/ travelling to BKK

realizing I wont get a Ranger 3,2 Wildtrack this year, and bored of old (2007) temp shit and need one more car asap. Pajero is best choise at this price/segment, and I really dont care what name a vehicle carries as long as specs are what I want

going off topic, in addition to pressure chip, does cat removal make a huge difference? I mean lot of hazzle to remove for each service and very visible in Pajero, and if power improvement isnt that much, i will use chips only.

Yep, cost of those extras I noted would only be about 15K, so all even.

Dump pipe (cat replacement) and EGR block both increase low-range torque and improve power througout the rev range - my guess is +12-15% at the low end, reducing to about +5% at the upper end with both combined. Probably the biggest consideration is the noise though - the dump pipe spools the turbo sooner and much, much harder, and the turbo whine becomes *very* audible (like, hear it 2 soi's away audible) - so that's either a negative or a positive, depending on your POV

My local mechanic removes & refits both for 100 Baht around shecduled Mitsu servicing, and with 2 men on the job it only takes about 15 mins, so that's not such a biggie.

Also consider a K&N - it's worth another 8-10%, but comes at the expense of a little more induction noise.

Bottom line is the chip is the single most effective upgrade with +20% torque, DIY fit/remove, and no negative effect on noise levels..

do you know the inner diameter of your dump pipe and price of it?. as I recall it was stainless, which also increases high Hz noise.

Considering doing a full system in 2,5 inch to increase flow and support high Hz turbo whining with some low Hz rumble

Just like riding my bike, I wouldnt need to use my horn any more :lol:

[MoonRiverOasis]

do you know the inner diameter of your dump pipe and price of it?. as I recall it was stainless, which also increases high Hz noise.

Considering doing a full system in 2,5 inch to increase flow and support high Hz turbo whining with some low Hz rumble

Just like riding my bike, I wouldnt need to use my horn any more :lol:

The dump pipe itlself is 2.5" OD (~2.25" ID), but the flange that connects to the turbo end is an odd shape, with surface area of ~3". Mine cost 1400 THB last year, but I notice they're now selling for 1700..

One thing to note about fitting a complete system is that it will invalidate your drivetrain warranty - unless you plan to do a remove+refit for each service? If you're not worried about the warranty aspect, you may as well go fit the complete ECU Shop Diesel Monster V2 system, or the Bentech full full system, and shoot for 240-250 HP

[katabeachbum]

do you know the inner diameter of your dump pipe and price of it?. as I recall it was stainless, which also increases high Hz noise.

Considering doing a full system in 2,5 inch to increase flow and support high Hz turbo whining with some low Hz rumble

Just like riding my bike, I wouldnt need to use my horn any more :lol:

The dump pipe itlself is 2.5" OD (~2.25" ID), but the flange that connects to the turbo end is an odd shape, with surface area of ~3". Mine cost 1400 THB last year, but I notice they're now selling for 1700..

One thing to note about fitting a complete system is that it will invalidate your drivetrain warranty - unless you plan to do a remove+refit for each service? If you're not worried about the warranty aspect, you may as well go fit the complete ECU Shop Diesel Monster V2 system, or the Bentech full full system, and shoot for 240-250 HP

I want to keep 5 year Warranty so its remove+refit exhaust and no wire pinholes at ECU. My local bike mec can do it in my garage for a couple of hundred each time. If the turbo exit is 3" all system should be 3", thats huge

Need to close a new deal on the car first, lets hope tomorrow

[transam]

do you know the inner diameter of your dump pipe and price of it?. as I recall it was stainless, which also increases high Hz noise.

Considering doing a full system in 2,5 inch to increase flow and support high Hz turbo whining with some low Hz rumble

Just like riding my bike, I wouldnt need to use my horn any more :lol:

The dump pipe itlself is 2.5" OD (~2.25" ID), but the flange that connects to the turbo end is an odd shape, with surface area of ~3". Mine cost 1400 THB last year, but I notice they're now selling for 1700..

One thing to note about fitting a complete system is that it will invalidate your drivetrain warranty - unless you plan to do a remove+refit for each service? If you're not worried about the warranty aspect, you may as well go fit the complete ECU Shop Diesel Monster V2 system, or the Bentech full full system, and shoot for 240-250 HP

I want to keep 5 year Warranty so its remove+refit exhaust and no wire pinholes at ECU. My local bike mec can do it in my garage for a couple of hundred each time. If the turbo exit is 3" all system should be 3", thats huge

Need to close a new deal on the car first, lets hope tomorrow

Can fit a cone reducer from 3 to 2 1/2. Too big a system could reduce low end torque.

[MoonRiverOasis]

do you know the inner diameter of your dump pipe and price of it?. as I recall it was stainless, which also increases high Hz noise.

Considering doing a full system in 2,5 inch to increase flow and support high Hz turbo whining with some low Hz rumble

Just like riding my bike, I wouldnt need to use my horn any more :lol:

The dump pipe itlself is 2.5" OD (~2.25" ID), but the flange that connects to the turbo end is an odd shape, with surface area of ~3". Mine cost 1400 THB last year, but I notice they're now selling for 1700..

One thing to note about fitting a complete system is that it will invalidate your drivetrain warranty - unless you plan to do a remove+refit for each service? If you're not worried about the warranty aspect, you may as well go fit the complete ECU Shop Diesel Monster V2 system, or the Bentech full full system, and shoot for 240-250 HP

I want to keep 5 year Warranty so its remove+refit exhaust and no wire pinholes at ECU. My local bike mec can do it in my garage for a couple of hundred each time. If the turbo exit is 3" all system should be 3", thats huge

Need to close a new deal on the car first, lets hope tomorrow

Can fit a cone reducer from 3 to 2 1/2. Too big a system could reduce low end torque.

The stock exhaust system is 2.25", and with a chip and dump pipe he's going to be looking at 225-230 HP, so moving to 3" probably isn't too radical.. 4" would probably be overkill though

[katabeachbum]

Can fit a cone reducer from 3 to 2 1/2. Too big a system could reduce low end torque.

The stock exhaust system is 2.25", and with a chip and dump pipe he's going to be looking at 225-230 HP, so moving to 3" probably isn't too radical.. 4" would probably be overkill though

are you sure the stock exhaust is 2,25" all the way? it looks so tiny compared to Vigo/Fortuna. If it is 2,25" all the way I probably wont bother, except for the dump pipe

and as for going 3", does it actually reduce low end tourque on an overfueled turbo engine? on a NA, yes sure, but would assume the resistance in whining up the turbo creates sufficient back pressure, and due to lack of cat rapid charging/boost and thus low end peak tourqe

and yes chips and dump pipe alone should be +225hp from this 2,5. where is the auto cooler positioned on PJS?

[MoonRiverOasis]

Can fit a cone reducer from 3 to 2 1/2. Too big a system could reduce low end torque.

The stock exhaust system is 2.25", and with a chip and dump pipe he's going to be looking at 225-230 HP, so moving to 3" probably isn't too radical.. 4" would probably be overkill though

are you sure the stock exhaust is 2,25" all the way? it looks so tiny compared to Vigo/Fortuna. If it is 2,25" all the way I probably wont bother, except for the dump pipe

and as for going 3", does it actually reduce low end tourque on an overfueled turbo engine? on a NA, yes sure, but would assume the resistance in whining up the turbo creates sufficient back pressure, and due to lack of cat rapid charging/boost and thus low end peak tourqe

and yes chips and dump pipe alone should be +225hp from this 2,5. where is the auto cooler positioned on PJS?

Yep, exhaust is 2.25" all the way...

Going too big on turbo has much less impact on bottom-end power than naturally aspirated - due to the backpressure the turbo itself presents. But that said, yes, it is possible to go too big, so it's not just a matter of fitting a drain pipe I've still got lots to learn when it comes to commonrail turbos, but in the world of gasoline turbos, 2.5" easily flows 250HP, and 3" flows 400HP (assuming a full length system w/muffler).

My guess is that 2.5" would do the trick for the HP you're looking at - 3" would have a louder drone and maybe look better, but it wouldn't actually produce more HP, especially given the low revs of diesels..

Don't know about the auto cooler - the PJS has an AT overtemp indicator, but it's never come on so I've never been bothered about it

[katabeachbum]

Can fit a cone reducer from 3 to 2 1/2. Too big a system could reduce low end torque.

The stock exhaust system is 2.25", and with a chip and dump pipe he's going to be looking at 225-230 HP, so moving to 3" probably isn't too radical.. 4" would probably be overkill though

are you sure the stock exhaust is 2,25" all the way? it looks so tiny compared to Vigo/Fortuna. If it is 2,25" all the way I probably wont bother, except for the dump pipe

and as for going 3", does it actually reduce low end tourque on an overfueled turbo engine? on a NA, yes sure, but would assume the resistance in whining up the turbo creates sufficient back pressure, and due to lack of cat rapid charging/boost and thus low end peak tourqe

and yes chips and dump pipe alone should be +225hp from this 2,5. where is the auto cooler positioned on PJS?

Yep, exhaust is 2.25" all the way...

Going too big on turbo has much less impact on bottom-end power than naturally aspirated - due to the backpressure the turbo itself presents. But that said, yes, it is possible to go too big, so it's not just a matter of fitting a drain pipe I've still got lots to learn when it comes to commonrail turbos, but in the world of gasoline turbos, 2.5" easily flows 250HP, and 3" flows 400HP (assuming a full length system w/muffler).

My guess is that 2.5" would do the trick for the HP you're looking at - 3" would have a louder drone and maybe look better, but it wouldn't actually produce more HP, especially given the low revs of diesels..

Don't know about the auto cooler - the PJS has an AT overtemp indicator, but it's never come on so I've never been bothered about it

Thanks again MRO

If its 2,25 all the way, I just replace the cat with dump pipe. If I had gone with custom exhaust 2,5-3", I would have made rear tip invisible, less soot on white paint and german style

and with auto temp warning, I drop extra oilcooler until warned its needed, as its a 2wd SUV auto wont be loaded that hard, worse with the rear tyres I guess

Money and hazzle saved

[MoonRiverOasis]

Thanks again MRO

If its 2,25 all the way, I just replace the cat with dump pipe. If I had gone with custom exhaust 2,5-3", I would have made rear tip invisible, less soot on white paint and german style

and with auto temp warning, I drop extra oilcooler until warned its needed, as its a 2wd SUV auto wont be loaded that hard, worse with the rear tyres I guess

Money and hazzle saved

NP

Have been through all the same decisions, in the end decided just to keep it simple too - take the easy/cheap HP you can get, and use the money saved for something faster, or just more beer

[Sommaz]

I was about to write a thread asking loads of questions regarding Pajero Sport but you guys have answered most of 'em here. Just a note therefore to say thanks very much - some excellent information!!

I wish other sub forums on Thai Visa were this good and devoid of numpties.

Cheers

[katabeachbum]

I have made 5k baht deposit on a white pearl 2,5 GT today, and been promised 3 weeks in Phuket.

10% down, and 1,9% on 48 months

free

Lamina film

floormats one set fabric, one set rubber

full fueltank

plateframe

windwisors x 4

Insurance 80% repair any garage, new original parts

tax reg plate book

is the deal ok, or should I work harder on it?

expecting like 50k for 20 Lenzo/Nitto, how much should I get for the stock crap 16 Duellers?

Work harder!

1.3% should be possible with 10% down, and I would expect the following freebies as well, but these may be harder to negotiate at a provincial dealer:

Reversing Camera

Garmin GPS

Side Mirror covers with LED

Rustproofing

As for wheels, you should get 22-25K for the OEM wheels/tires so long as they have < 1000KM on them. 20's with tires will cost between 36K and 70K (before trade-in) depending on whether they're chrome/imported wheels, and what tires you go for.

At 36K (10-13K changeover) I'd recommend a Lenso wheel, and Nangkang 265/50R20 (a Yokohama sub-brand) for tires.

At the top end, whatever you prefer for wheel, and for tires, Yokohama Advan S.T (ultimate), Yoko Parada Spec-X (excellent) or Yokohama AVID SUV (v.good) in that order.

If dealer does not have Yoko, the Toyo's would be my next choice - I'd put them on par with the AVID's for perfomance, but the cool thing is they're available in 275/55R20 oversize fitment, so very comfortable..

IMPORTANT! You will absolutely need hub rings when fitting aftermarket wheels to a Mitsu, otherwise you'll be supported only by the wheel studs - make sure they fit these! Machined alloy hub rings normally run about 600-800 Baht for a set of 4. Also, as noted a while back, consider getting an on-car balance done - the difference is huge - you'll need to go to a truck tire specialist for this, and it'll cost ~ 600 Baht/wheel (do the front only). Note than an on-car balance will be required for safe/comfortable high speed driving if the offset of new wheels pushes out the overall track.

And lastly, welcome to the Dark Side

May the force be with you

hehe

5555, Mitsubishi Phuket :lol: .

Second time I make a deal with them.

Today they change to 10% down and 3,30% interest or 15% down and 2,49% interest. 10% down accepted by Tanachart, loan docs signed, and Mitsu Phuket doesnt want to complete.

I canselled deal of course, deposit refund next week by check

Can you advice me where to get the above deal, not my first purchase out of Province

Give Khun Name (Nem) a call: 08 0582 4492

At sticker price, is offering:

• 1st class insurance
• Por Ror Bor/Road Tax
• Rustproofing
• Paint protection package
• License plate covers
• Floor mats
• 3M Window Tint
• Reversing Camera
• 4-piece body kit
• Rear bumper garnish
• Rear cargo area floor tray
• Side mirror covers with LED
• Weathershields

on the phone, we have reached the following

free Insurance, tax,reg,plate

and 30.000baht cash discount, no freebies

but,

48 months with down

10% = 3,30%

15% = 2,49%

20% = 2,25%

and then he says, 25k cash discount and 20% down = 2,15%

steep finance