Trip To Pai?

[sirchai]

Hello,

I've booked my flight together with my family in April for a three week holiday in Pai. Actually, we're flying from lower northeast to Chiang Mai beginning of April and I thought it would be best to go to Pai.

I've been there eight years ago where there was no airport and I've heard it has changed a lot.

Considering the fact that we've already booked our plane tickets, what's a good place to stay at in Pai, Mae Hong Son, or elsewhere?

Any input would be deeply appreciated.Well. I'm familiar with this country, just haven/t been in this corner for so long.

Greetings from lower northeast....

[MESmith]

I hope the rains arrive before you visit.

[mcgriffith]

This is the short answer- no.

The long answer is that although I have been through Pai about 4 or 5 times before on motorcycle trips, never staying, I went through again about 4 weeks ago on yet another moto trip. I insisted to myself that I would definitely stop and stay, this time.

(Some long time Pai fans will no doubt vehemently object to what I am about to say, as they still treasure the place because of the memories they have developed over years of visiting or living there).

Coming up the mountain I was struck by the number of signs, like multiple signs, at least 20 km before descending into the town proper.

(I started out that morning in Chiang Dao, then Mae Taeng).

As I got closer to the town, way before the PT station...I was gobsmacked by the signs. Yes, I know this sounds a bit obsessive, but hear me out.

They were big. Some were flourescent lime green or orange. Dozens of them in a swarm on one big display, repeated every 1/2 km or so.

Advertising THIS resort, THIS guesthouse, THIS restaurant, etc. One after the other after the other. Ugliest <deleted> I've ever seen.

It was like the old deal in the American desert states from the 1950's- 15 miles to Orange Julius! 14 miles to Orange Julius!.....etc.

I gassed up at PT, and rode into town.

I have never seen so many farang in any place in Thailand. It looked like a combo of Khao San Rd., and Avenida Revolucion in Tijuana, Baja California. The sign pollution literally nauseated me....I just blew through town and continued on to Mae Hong Son, where I spent 4 very pleasant days.

The manager of my bungalow in MHS said that there are about 400 guesthouses, hotels and resorts total in Pai now. <deleted>.

Just my 25 satang, and advance apologies to longtime Pai people who are local Chamber of Commerce boosters.

[eek]

Hey McG, that was roughly how i felt about Pai about 5 yr ago..but it has changed for me. Or, maybe, i have changed (which i think may be the case tbh).

On my first couple of visits i had only been living in Thailand just over a year or so. I found Pai a backpacker town that wasnt really my scene at all. Didnt enjoy it much in the least.

However, recently ive been on several short trips to Pai and each time ive enjoyed it. Ive enjoyed the novetly of seening so many nationalities (I havent left Asia in over 6 years, so maybe thats why too). Ive also enjoyed not feeling quite so "farang" for a while. Just feel like my skin colour isnt noticed as much. I usually eat Thai food, but in Pai ive found the farang food really pretty good. There is one awesome sandwich shop and an awesome (imo) cake shop. In CM i never go to the night markets because of the crowds, but in Pai its leisurely and not swamped, so its pleasant to walk around. Like the small resort places too.

I dont actually "do" anything in Pai except for taking it easy. Normally i just go on a speedy day bike trip, grab lunch and a bit of people watching, then head back. On my last visit i stayed 2 nights (intended to stay one night, but felt so relaxed decided to stay one more).

Was just a nice change to the seemingly more and more congested Chiang Mai. Wouldnt want to live there, as i think id end up feeling like i was in a deja vu groundhog day, no progression, doing the same thing everyday. That would grate on me because i like achieving things..but have been enjoying for a short time a chillled out vibe ive been experiencing from there.

Hey, but were are all different..and i may end up hating it again some time down the line..who knows! ^.^

[ianf]

Yes, I agree that Pai has gone downhill somewhat but its still a great place ..... for three days. Do yourself a favour and don't spend three weeks there! Even if you have an obsession like bird watching, cycling or trekking, 3 weeks is far too long. I would suggest 3 days in Pai, 3 in Mae Hong Son and Mae Sariang, 5 in Chiang Rai including Fang, Doi Angkang and the Chinese border illages, 5 days in Chiang Mai, then fly to Bangkok and go along the coast to Chantaburi. Not in this order off course and there could be many variations on this theme. Enjoy!

[T_Dog]

We still enjoy Pai. For a place to stay, check out

which is away from the town noise. For good eats, don't miss the Witching Well. Avoid the waterfalls on the southwest side of the highway but do hike up to the lesser known ones on the northeast side. There is a bar downtown on a corner near the bridge that has great music and if you arrive during happy hour, they usually honor those prices all night. Some of the best burgers in Thailand can be found in Pai. The other posters are spot on though about there being mostly foreigners in town but you can still have a great time there.

[WinnieTheKhwai]

(Some long time Pai fans will no doubt vehemently object to what I am about to say, as they still treasure the place because of the memories they have developed over years of visiting or living there).

Not at all; I like it more now than before. 10-15 years ago you still got pretentious backpackers thinking they're off the beaten track. These days it's a nice little party town. You go there BECAUSE you like a bit of an alternative scene, compared to the usual rural Thailand that you get everywhere else. (and is still there when you want it, not too far out of town.)

It is what it is. And it's definitely different from the lower North East, so probably worth a visit. But if it seems tacky and you don't care for the low-key nightlife then just move on; it's still a beautiful part of Thailand. (Meaning, the entire North-Western part of the country)

[mcgriffith]

I think if you go for a special event, like a blues or reggae festival, Pai would be fine for a few days.

I've heard great reviews about not only music venues, with top quality musicians, but also restaurants. I'm a bit of a foodie, and that was what keeps attracting me to stay sometime.

I like a relaxing resort, a spa with a hot tub like everyone. Just zone out, read a bit, get a massage.

Pai might consider something about regulating unchecked development, and the way over the top signage, including the city center. It's not a village anymore, it's a city now.

For me, whatever charm it might have had, is gone now. I'm sorry I missed it.

I recommend that the OP go to Mae Hong Son instead, for a real northern Thailand feel, without pressing masses of tourists, both Thai and farang as found in Pai.

EDIT: agree with Winnie it could be a great escape for a CM resident- alternative music scene, etc.

I don't know if this is what the OP is looking for however, but only he/she knows that.

[MESmith]

Passed through Pai in the wet season on the way to Soppong - lush green valley, looked loverly. But in April, if the rains haven't arrived, it'll be a hot (hotter than CM) dry, brown dustbowl.

[Johpa]

Pai is good for a night, or maybe more if you enjoy the "scene" and being in the t-shirt selling capital of Thailand doesn't bother you too much. The surrounding area is very nice. But Pai is not for everyone and honestly, I prefer Mae Hong Song. Although a much larger town, MHS somehow remains more quaint, more laid back. And the surrounding areas are just a nice as Pai and all you need is a copy of the GT-Rider MHS Loop map to explore in all directions. May I suggest a day trip, and maybe an overnight, to Mae Aw (AKA Rak Thai) with a stop at the Royal Palace along the way. Or take the "elephant trail" road past the Fern Resort to the first viewpoint for a spectacular high mountain view. There are countless day trips from MHS with a few options to stay at guesthouses at many of those destinations. You might try the Piya guesthouse along the lake if you want to stay in the middle of town. There are less costly guesthouses nearby as well as higher end hotels not far away.

[Fishenough]

Hope the smoke has cleared for you then!

Great thing about Pai is most of the visitors are not of the type that say "you should have seen Pai ....... years ago". Most are looking for a good time and open to meeting other people. Sitting around a fire to the wee hours of the morning in Pai is fun, the last two times so many parts of the world were represented in that group. Enjoy it for what it is, helpful people above have made that very clear.

[cloudhopper]

Hi I've had a home in the Pai valley since 2003 and agree with most of the above commentary. While the more visible areas have been trashed by theme park-style overdevelopment there remain many areas relatively unspoiled if you take the time to look around.

As far as April goes it is the hottest month of the year and will be very smoky until the first rains come. The songkran holiday lasts for a minimum of 2 weeks there so don't expect to go anywhere during daylight hours without being soaked with water.

I personally think Pai is one of the finest places to be during the rainy season but it is overrun by tourists Dec-Jan and typically very unpleasant due to heat, smoke and songkran idiocy Feb-April.

[sirchai]

Hello,

I'd like to thank you all very much for your input. I know how Pai was a long time ago and I don't have to stay there for longer. Has Mae Hong Son also developed like most cities in LOS?

What else is okay for a holiday, I'm not looking for a nightlife, bars etc.....as I'm traveling with my family.

Just wanted to fly from lower northeast to CM and find some good places to hang out and enjoying life. Can be shorter than expected.

Where are locals going to? Any ideas would be deeply appropriated.....

Cheers-

Edited February 27, 2012 by sirchai

[cloudhopper]

MHS remains a very unspoiled and pleasant provincial capital along with other places already mentioned like Pang Mappah. Unfortunately the smoke can often be bad there as in Pai due to the catabatic winds taking the smoke from the burning hillsides down into the confined valley where it pools in the early morning hours. The songkran idiocy also pervades every tiny village in the entire North. Escape lies somewhere near the sea...

[Mestizo]

(Some long time Pai fans will no doubt vehemently object to what I am about to say, as they still treasure the place because of the memories they have developed over years of visiting or living there).

Not at all; I like it more now than before. 10-15 years ago you still got pretentious backpackers thinking they're off the beaten track. These days it's a nice little party town. You go there BECAUSE you like a bit of an alternative scene, compared to the usual rural Thailand that you get everywhere else. (and is still there when you want it, not too far out of town.)

It is what it is. And it's definitely different from the lower North East, so probably worth a visit. But if it seems tacky and you don't care for the low-key nightlife then just move on; it's still a beautiful part of Thailand. (Meaning, the entire North-Western part of the country)

I agree. I was in Pai most recently for the Reggae Fest. Had an awesome time and can't wait to go back next winter. As a relative newbie (4+ years in Chiang Mai and just 3rd trip to Pai), I did not go in with any preconceived notions about the number of 7-11's in Pai, the level of night life, or even the amount of signage displayed. Just wanted to get away for a long weekend and have some fun!

I ended up spending the first day lounging in the hammock hanging in front of my bungalow, catching up on some reading. Relaxing after the long drive. The first night was spent at the reggae fest out by the lake (via the free shuttle service).

Second day I rented a motorbike and toured the country side. Getting lost on little dirt roads... cooling off in crystal clear, ice cold mountain streams... Completely forgetting about the pressures of work, email, etc. The second night I decided to stay in town. Visited several bars around the main part of town. Spent a few hours in the Yellow Sun Bar have a few enjoyable conversations with a couple of local farangs and a few tourists from all parts of the globe. Ended up heading out to Bebop bar. Excellent band and spent the evening chatting with some local Thai girls.

Third day was spent walking around town. Enjoying the food, browsing the used book store, etc. Spent a bit of time checking out the walking street (not at all crowded like Chiang Mai) in the evening. Then headed out to the last night of the Reggae Fest.

As I've mentioned in this Forum before, the "glass half full" type of people are going to be able to go to Pai and really enjoy themselves, while the "glass half empty" people are just going to waste all their time dwelling on what they perceive as the negatives. Some people are going to have fun, whether its Pai, Chiang Mai, Issan, Bangkok, etc. And some people are just going to bitch and moan.

As Winnie said, it is what it is. It's also really what you make of it. For me, its a great place to relax, unwind, and enjoy the ample nightlife.

-Mestizo

[mcgriffith]

Maybe I should check out this Bebop Bar......strictly in the interest of journalistic integrity that is.