Need To Buy A New Wireless Adsl Router. Any Recommendations?

[tropo]

I haven't bought a wireless adsl router for over 4 years and my current two are getting a bit tired and doing weird things. I currently have an D-Link and a Zyxel. The D-Link has been the better of the two, but it's like an oven compared to the Zyxel which remains cool.

Out of the current crop available here in Thailand, what would some of you experienced IT techs recommend. I'm looking for something reliable and not too expensive. Thanks in advance for any tips.

[guzzi850m2]

I have a D-Link N150 DIR-600 I bough app. 1 year ago for around 1000 bath in Tuk.Com, never had any problems with it.

The range is pretty good even in my 2 story house.

I am no expert but the hook-up and installation was pretty straight forward.

It's compatible with Win7, not sure about Win8 (I use 7 myself).

[RandomSand]

If you don't mind spending a day flashing your router's firmware then you can load Open WRT onto many devices. The advantage if increased feature set and lately IPv6 support which will be useful in the future. Also; many routers that claim to support IPv6 out the box don't do it properly. http://wiki.openwrt.org/toh/start has all the info.

[mamypoko]

Tropo, was in the same boat as you just a few days ago. My 3 year old, 3bb provided Billion router had become "strange" and unstable. The good folks at BananaIT recommended the D-Link DSL-2750U (1550 baht). That and a new LAN cable and I'm getting great performance, nearly zero packet loss around the globe. Setup was a snap. Updated the firmware....so far, so good.

GL!

[tropo]

If you don't mind spending a day flashing your router's firmware then you can load Open WRT onto many devices. The advantage if increased feature set and lately IPv6 support which will be useful in the future. Also; many routers that claim to support IPv6 out the box don't do it properly. http://wiki.openwrt.org/toh/start has all the info.

In plain English, what advantages would this have for an old router? Would it increase my stability or speed? Why would I need Open WRT and IPv6 support. I had a quick look at your link, but it didn't mean much to me.

I'm not even sure if there's anything wrong with my old TP Link router - I just want to eliminate it as a possibility. The Zyxel definitely has a problem as I have frequent dropouts where I cannot access web pages - then it goes ok for awhile, then slows down again. I tried it with both my internet connections.

[tropo]

Tropo, was in the same boat as you just a few days ago. My 3 year old, 3bb provided Billion router had become "strange" and unstable. The good folks at BananaIT recommended the D-Link DSL-2750U (1550 baht). That and a new LAN cable and I'm getting great performance, nearly zero packet loss around the globe. Setup was a snap. Updated the firmware....so far, so good.

GL!

Thanks for that! Are these new routers like ovens? Do they have on/off switches. These old ones are like dinosaurs - you'd think they could have given them switches. The Zyxel had a switch, but it broke - didn't last long.

[RandomSand]

If you don't mind spending a day flashing your router's firmware then you can load Open WRT onto many devices. The advantage if increased feature set and lately IPv6 support which will be useful in the future. Also; many routers that claim to support IPv6 out the box don't do it properly. http://wiki.openwrt.org/toh/start has all the info.

In plain English, what advantages would this have for an old router? Would it increase my stability or speed? Why would I need Open WRT and IPv6 support. I had a quick look at your link, but it didn't mean much to me.

I'm not even sure if there's anything wrong with my old TP Link router - I just want to eliminate it as a possibility. The Zyxel definitely has a problem as I have frequent dropouts where I cannot access web pages - then it goes ok for awhile, then slows down again. I tried it with both my internet connections.

The reason some sites don't load could just be that your MTU is too large in your operating system... If you're using PPPoE on your router (router that dials the PPP link) then you need to change the MTU size in Windows also. You might think it can't be that because only one router is not affected, but, router firewalls that block ICMP messages can cause some problems where windows cannot self-correct the MTU size.

I think this is a likely cause of many forum member's complaint's about the internet in Thailand.

Here's the fix:

Run CMD promt as Admin:

Type:

netsh int ipv4 show subint (ENTER)

You'll get a list of interfaces / network cards. If you dial out to your ISP using your computer then you need to be connected already for it to show up.

Any network cards that connect to a Router or Modem that itself has a PPPoE connection type (CAT/3BB,ETC) should be MTU size 1492. 1500 MTU is too big.

How to change;

In the same window type:

netsh int ipv4 set subint "name of Inteface as shown in previous list" mtu=1492 store=persistent (ENTER)

You should get a ok message in the CMD window.

Check it's working by using the ping command in the same window:

ping www.problematicsite.com -f -l 1500 (ENTER)

Notice that the packet needs to be fragmented ?

Drop the test packet size down more and test again until your reach a packet size that does not fragment.

Increase your packet size in small increments and retest until you find the largest possible packet that doesn't fragment.

Take the maximum packet size from the ping test and add 28. You add 28 bytes because 20 bytes are reserved for the IP header and 8 bytes must be allocated for the ICMP Echo Request header. Remember: You must add 28 to your results from the ping test!

The good ping size, with 28 added, should be the value for the setting in "netsh int ipv4 set subint"

For PPPoE, your MaxMTU should be no more than 1492 to allow space for the 8 byte PPPoE "wrapper," but again, experiment to find the optimal value. For PPPoE, the stakes are high: if you get your MTU wrong, you may not just be sub-optimal, things like UPLOADING or web pages may stall or not work at all!

Edited February 8, 2013 by RandomSand

[muratremix]

You can look Asus DSL wireless routers if you need a combined solution.

Or you can buy 1 port adsl modem (no wifi) and connect it to a wireless AP / router (no adsl built in) - in that case you can choose any wireless router you want, I recommend Asus.

[Sandman77]

One question, if I have my own dsl router is then the setup of a new 3 bb dsl line cheaper? Or did 3bb want customer buy there router only? In my homecountry I have around 5 unused router because ISP give free, but I not sure runs Thailand also on annex A

Standard or use Annex B modulation?

Sent from my iPhone using ThaiVisa app

[lomatopo]

Which service provider do you use?

Personally, I would speak with neighbors who are using the same service to see which CPE works for them.

We have migrated everyone to True Online DSL and are installing Asus DSL-N12U (a single, all-in-one unit: DSL modem, 4-port ethernet router, WiFi AP) in new/replacement installs. These units have been working really well - the D-Link and TP-Link equipment seemed to always have issues and have been scrapped.

[BlackPuddingBertha]

Thanks for that! Are these new routers like ovens? Do they have on/off switches. These old ones are like dinosaurs - you'd think they could have given them switches. The Zyxel had a switch, but it broke - didn't last long.

They dont have switches because most users leave them on permanently and this is what they are designed for.

I dont really see the sense in having two internet connections here but if I did have that then rather than bugger about with two modem/routers I would either have one load-balancing twin modem/router (or a load-balancing single modem/router plus a second modem), or one router and two ADSL modems. The former solutions mean you never need to touch the equipment at all, and the latter solution means all you need to do to use the second connection is swap the ethernet cable on the router from one modem to the other, and turn it on.

Electronic devices like these are designed to be set up correctly, turned on and left alone. They dont like being messed about with and the less you do it the better.

Edited February 8, 2013 by BlackPuddingBertha

[BlackPuddingBertha]

If you don't mind spending a day flashing your router's firmware then you can load Open WRT onto many devices.

A day? It took me about 30 minutes, start to finish, including downloading the firmware and reconfiguring it when finished.

And it's true it does make my cheap Dlink router run very well.

[tropo]

Thanks for that! Are these new routers like ovens? Do they have on/off switches. These old ones are like dinosaurs - you'd think they could have given them switches. The Zyxel had a switch, but it broke - didn't last long.

They dont have switches because most users leave them on permanently and this is what they are designed for.

I dont really see the sense in having two internet connections here but if I did have that then rather than bugger about with two modem/routers I would either have one load-balancing twin modem/router (or a load-balancing single modem/router plus a second modem), or one router and two ADSL modems. The former solutions mean you never need to touch the equipment at all, and the latter solution means all you need to do to use the second connection is swap the ethernet cable on the router from one modem to the other, and turn it on.

Electronic devices like these are designed to be set up correctly, turned on and left alone. They dont like being messed about with and the less you do it the better.

I turn them or one off at night. I can't see the point of having a router working for 8 hours a night if it is not needed.

Two connections is to assure I always have at least one. If you don't you can often have no internet when you most need it. I've always had two in Thailand and it has saved me many times. If not because one has gone down, then to improve my connection to an overseas server if one has become sluggish.

It also works out well if I'm downloading Bittorrents on one computer while I'm doing other stuff on another - or my wife may want to chat away on Skype for hours while I'm downloading or uploading on another computer. I find it is very useful to have 2. We have 4 computers and 2 smart mobile devices, so it's great to share the load.

I don't know anything about load balancing routers. I don't want to buy an expensive experiment and I've got a feeling that is what it would end up being.

Some do have on/off switches. My Zyxel router does.

Edited February 8, 2013 by tropo

[tropo]

If you don't mind spending a day flashing your router's firmware then you can load Open WRT onto many devices. The advantage if increased feature set and lately IPv6 support which will be useful in the future. Also; many routers that claim to support IPv6 out the box don't do it properly. http://wiki.openwrt.org/toh/start has all the info.

In plain English, what advantages would this have for an old router? Would it increase my stability or speed? Why would I need Open WRT and IPv6 support. I had a quick look at your link, but it didn't mean much to me.

I'm not even sure if there's anything wrong with my old TP Link router - I just want to eliminate it as a possibility. The Zyxel definitely has a problem as I have frequent dropouts where I cannot access web pages - then it goes ok for awhile, then slows down again. I tried it with both my internet connections.

The reason some sites don't load could just be that your MTU is too large in your operating system... If you're using PPPoE on your router (router that dials the PPP link) then you need to change the MTU size in Windows also. You might think it can't be that because only one router is not affected, but, router firewalls that block ICMP messages can cause some problems where windows cannot self-correct the MTU size.

I think this is a likely cause of many forum member's complaint's about the internet in Thailand.

Here's the fix:

Run CMD promt as Admin:

Type:

netsh int ipv4 show subint (ENTER)

You'll get a list of interfaces / network cards. If you dial out to your ISP using your computer then you need to be connected already for it to show up.

Any network cards that connect to a Router or Modem that itself has a PPPoE connection type (CAT/3BB,ETC) should be MTU size 1492. 1500 MTU is too big.

How to change;

In the same window type:

netsh int ipv4 set subint "name of Inteface as shown in previous list" mtu=1492 store=persistent (ENTER)

You should get a ok message in the CMD window.

Check it's working by using the ping command in the same window:

ping www.problematicsite.com -f -l 1500 (ENTER)

Notice that the packet needs to be fragmented ?

Drop the test packet size down more and test again until your reach a packet size that does not fragment.

Increase your packet size in small increments and retest until you find the largest possible packet that doesn't fragment.

Take the maximum packet size from the ping test and add 28. You add 28 bytes because 20 bytes are reserved for the IP header and 8 bytes must be allocated for the ICMP Echo Request header. Remember: You must add 28 to your results from the ping test!

The good ping size, with 28 added, should be the value for the setting in "netsh int ipv4 set subint"

For PPPoE, your MaxMTU should be no more than 1492 to allow space for the 8 byte PPPoE "wrapper," but again, experiment to find the optimal value. For PPPoE, the stakes are high: if you get your MTU wrong, you may not just be sub-optimal, things like UPLOADING or web pages may stall or not work at all!

Thanks for all the details. I'll work my way through this and let you know how I go.

[tropo]

Which service provider do you use?

Personally, I would speak with neighbors who are using the same service to see which CPE works for them.

We have migrated everyone to True Online DSL and are installing Asus DSL-N12U (a single, all-in-one unit: DSL modem, 4-port ethernet router, WiFi AP) in new/replacement installs. These units have been working really well - the D-Link and TP-Link equipment seemed to always have issues and have been scrapped.

CAT 7/1 premier and 3BB 3/1 premier. They both work better on the D-Link modem than the Zyxel. I doubt there's many with the same connections in my area. CAT have just recently come in to this area and most people use the 3BB standard connections.

Edited February 8, 2013 by tropo

[guzzi850m2]

Both my router and my modem have power adapters so when I leave the house (and not downloading from a torrent site)) I switch them off on the power supply socket.

My power adapter for the modem once chapped out but my i-net provider gave me a new for free.

They boot up every time without any problems.

[robblok]

Hi,

I got an ASUS DSL-N55U it works great though i had some minor problems setting it up. That was solved by flashing the bios (quite easy). Its a lot faster as my old modem, i was in the same boat as you and wanted to eliminate a problem. It did eliminate the problem and is faster but don't expect it to double speeds or anything like that.

[RandomSand]

You could find out what chipset the D-Link has inside it from that OpenWRT site - perhaps - and then use the same site to find a new router with the same branded chipset. ZyXEL *is* a good brand in general and their chips are on the same level as Broadcom -.i.e favoured by telcos as they are known to be reliable. CAT runs ZyXEL servers that you might even connect to.

Edited February 8, 2013 by RandomSand

[mamypoko]

Tropo, was in the same boat as you just a few days ago. My 3 year old, 3bb provided Billion router had become "strange" and unstable. The good folks at BananaIT recommended the D-Link DSL-2750U (1550 baht). That and a new LAN cable and I'm getting great performance, nearly zero packet loss around the globe. Setup was a snap. Updated the firmware....so far, so good.

GL!

Thanks for that! Are these new routers like ovens? Do they have on/off switches. These old ones are like dinosaurs - you'd think they could have given them switches. The Zyxel had a switch, but it broke - didn't last long.

On/Off switch, reset button, quick connect button for wifi, 4 LAN ports, 1 usb 'port'

setup disk listed Thailand and all the common isps...in my case 3BB Premium 3/1.

Edited February 8, 2013 by mamypoko

[BlackPuddingBertha]

I turn them or one off at night. I can't see the point of having a router working for 8 hours a night if it is not needed.

Fair enough. I just use the switch on the multiple adaptor when I want to turn things off. I never turn the router/modem off though as I like to listen to the radio in bed both before I go to sleep and when I wake up.

Two connections is to assure I always have at least one. If you don't you can often have no internet when you most need it. I've always had two in Thailand and it has saved me many times. If not because one has gone down, then to improve my connection to an overseas server if one has become sluggish.

Well, I have found Sophon cable to be highly reliable. The longest I have ever been without a connection was about 8 hours, and that was during a power cut and of course no service would have worked then. YMMV but I dont consider it worth the expense of having a second connection even though my usage appears to be much more intensive than yours. I would certainly avoid ADSL if possible as the phones lines just arent very good quality. ADSL always seems to go down when it rains, but my cable never does.

It also works out well if I'm downloading Bittorrents on one computer while I'm doing other stuff on another - or my wife may want to chat away on Skype for hours while I'm downloading or uploading on another computer. I find it is very useful to have 2. We have 4 computers and 2 smart mobile devices, so it's great to share the load.

Fair enough. Just get two ADSL modem/routers. The Dlinks at JIB in Tukcom should suit you fine.

[JetsetBkk]

If you don't mind spending a day flashing your router's firmware then you can load Open WRT onto many devices. The advantage if increased feature set and lately IPv6 support which will be useful in the future. Also; many routers that claim to support IPv6 out the box don't do it properly. http://wiki.openwrt.org/toh/start has all the info.

In plain English, what advantages would this have for an old router? Would it increase my stability or speed? Why would I need Open WRT and IPv6 support. I had a quick look at your link, but it didn't mean much to me.

I'm not even sure if there's anything wrong with my old TP Link router - I just want to eliminate it as a possibility. The Zyxel definitely has a problem as I have frequent dropouts where I cannot access web pages - then it goes ok for awhile, then slows down again. I tried it with both my internet connections.

The reason some sites don't load could just be that your MTU is too large in your operating system... If you're using PPPoE on your router (router that dials the PPP link) then you need to change the MTU size in Windows also. You might think it can't be that because only one router is not affected, but, router firewalls that block ICMP messages can cause some problems where windows cannot self-correct the MTU size.

I think this is a likely cause of many forum member's complaint's about the internet in Thailand.

Here's the fix:

Run CMD promt as Admin:

Type:

netsh int ipv4 show subint (ENTER)

You'll get a list of interfaces / network cards. If you dial out to your ISP using your computer then you need to be connected already for it to show up.

Any network cards that connect to a Router or Modem that itself has a PPPoE connection type (CAT/3BB,ETC) should be MTU size 1492. 1500 MTU is too big.

How to change;

In the same window type:

netsh int ipv4 set subint "name of Inteface as shown in previous list" mtu=1492 store=persistent (ENTER)

You should get a ok message in the CMD window.

Check it's working by using the ping command in the same window:

ping www.problematicsite.com -f -l 1500 (ENTER)

Notice that the packet needs to be fragmented ?

Drop the test packet size down more and test again until your reach a packet size that does not fragment.

Increase your packet size in small increments and retest until you find the largest possible packet that doesn't fragment.

Take the maximum packet size from the ping test and add 28. You add 28 bytes because 20 bytes are reserved for the IP header and 8 bytes must be allocated for the ICMP Echo Request header. Remember: You must add 28 to your results from the ping test!

The good ping size, with 28 added, should be the value for the setting in "netsh int ipv4 set subint"

For PPPoE, your MaxMTU should be no more than 1492 to allow space for the 8 byte PPPoE "wrapper," but again, experiment to find the optimal value. For PPPoE, the stakes are high: if you get your MTU wrong, you may not just be sub-optimal, things like UPLOADING or web pages may stall or not work at all!

Thanks for all the details. I'll work my way through this and let you know how I go.

re. MTU size. You could try looking at this site: http://www.speedguid...t/downloads.php

The program you can download (TCP Optimizer v3.0.8) finds the largest MTU size you can have before fragmenting occurs and sets it for you.

@RandomSand: Thanks for those instructions. I once had to reduce my MTU to 1440 to send messages to my bank - the web page refused to accept messages that were so big they exceeded the 1440 MTU size. Caused me a LOT of problems!

Edited February 8, 2013 by JetsetBkk

[bendejo]

TP-Link seems to be one to avoid. The few hundred baht savings is not worthwhile.

I would recommend Linksys at this point; things may change in the future as the company is changing ownership.

[JSixpack]

TP-Link seems to be one to avoid. The few hundred baht savings is not worthwhile.

I would recommend Linksys at this point; things may change in the future as the company is changing ownership.

+1. Had a TP-Link switch that was total crap. Avoid.

[negreanu]

802.11AC future proof yourself for the coming year and next.

[Chicog]

NetGear WNGD3700. Dual band (2.4 and 5 Ghz), USB ports for your hard disks and a media server built in, among others.

http://www.netgear.com/home/products/wirelessrouters/high-performance/dgnd3700.aspx

[Chicog]

The program you can download (TCP Optimizer v3.0.8) finds the largest MTU size you can have before fragmenting occurs and sets it for you.

You could try http://www.downloadcrew.com/article/23452-auslogics_internet_optimizer which still seems to work on Win 8.

[tropo]

TP-Link seems to be one to avoid. The few hundred baht savings is not worthwhile.

I would recommend Linksys at this point; things may change in the future as the company is changing ownership.

I hope you're wrong about the TP - Link being the lousy one because that is what I bought yesterday - TD-W896IND. There wasn't a big choice. I decided to go for a 2 antenna model and the choice was between this one and the D-Link model. It cost 600 baht more than the D-Link model. It has a lifetime warranty.

[lomatopo]

I hope you're wrong about the TP - Link being the lousy one because that is what I bought yesterday - TD-W896IND. There wasn't a big choice. I decided to go for a 2 antenna model and the choice was between this one and the D-Link model. It cost 600 baht more than the D-Link model. It has a lifetime warranty.

Hopefully the dual antennas and lifetime warranty mitigate any operational issues?

TP-Link TD-W8961N 300Mbps Wireless N ADSL2+ Modem Router review

Bargain basement networking with performance to match

http://www.techradar.com/reviews/pc-mac/networking-and-wi-fi/modem-routers/tp-link-td-w8961n-300mbps-wireless-n-adsl2-modem-router-924663/review

[tropo]

I hope you're wrong about the TP - Link being the lousy one because that is what I bought yesterday - TD-W896IND. There wasn't a big choice. I decided to go for a 2 antenna model and the choice was between this one and the D-Link model. It cost 600 baht more than the D-Link model. It has a lifetime warranty.

Hopefully the dual antennas and lifetime warranty mitigate any operational issues?

TP-Link TD-W8961N 300Mbps Wireless N ADSL2+ Modem Router review

Bargain basement networking with performance to match

http://www.techradar...r-924663/review

That's not the same router and an older model. It's a totally different shape.

If this one is bargain basement, then the whole range of D-Links and other routers commonly available here are also bargain basement because this one was the most expensive.

Not everyone has the same opinion though:

"A no-frills router with surprisingly good wireless performance" (this is an older model)

http://www.pcadvisor...w8961nd-review/

Here's the exact model I purchased:

http://www.flipkart.com/tp-link-td-w8961nd-300mbps-adsl2-wireless-modemrouter/p/itmdet9bbdxq3tnn#read-reviews

Edited February 9, 2013 by tropo

[4evermaat]

Which service provider do you use?

Personally, I would speak with neighbors who are using the same service to see which CPE works for them.

We have migrated everyone to True Online DSL and are installing Asus DSL-N12U (a single, all-in-one unit: DSL modem, 4-port ethernet router, WiFi AP) in new/replacement installs. These units have been working really well - the D-Link and TP-Link equipment seemed to always have issues and have been scrapped.

Where did you buy the Asus DSL-N12U?

...Well, I have found Sophon cable to be highly reliable. The longest I have ever been without a connection was about 8 hours, and that was during a power cut and of course no service would have worked then. YMMV but I dont consider it worth the expense of having a second connection even though my usage appears to be much more intensive than yours. I would certainly avoid ADSL if possible as the phones lines just arent very good quality. ADSL always seems to go down when it rains, but my cable never does.

.....

Fair enough. Just get two ADSL modem/routers. The Dlinks at JIB in Tukcom should suit you fine.

This is all good information and a good thread. I was considering having to buy a new DSL router myself, but if my old one still works, I'm ok. I actually have 2 old d-links from Tot (2640B ?), but one of them powers on, but does go through the boot up sequence. Only powers on, and all of the lights on the router for all of the options stay on continuously (no blinking). Tried resetting it with a paperclip...no joy. Maybe some water or moisture got into it?