Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted
Since this seems long i will break it up....Take the bike out and start it with a jump and she starts first click smile.png....I leave it idle and after a few minutes she dies. We remove the battery and charge it about a hour. After its installed the bike starts and i drive it home but its stalling at idle and getting worse as i go. I also smell some coolant or overheating odor...


At the house i start to research charging problems as the battery is almost dead again...I test the stator and all phase have power but this is not under load. I take the battery and have it tested and it tests good. I am now fairly certain it the regulator...


P1040842.jpg


I then proceed to order a mosfet from http://roadstercycle.com/


Since i have a friend coming here from the states i wont have any shipping cost but i was still nervous the stator might be bad...I then proceeded to open the stator to do a visual inspection....I guess i forgot to take pics but the stator was ok. The reason i forgot the pics as i discovered where the coolant odor was coming from...


P1040840.jpg


Yes the water pump so it had to be removed as i am on a deadline as my friend will be leaving soon...When removing it i see a bolt is missing....


P1040857.jpg


The bolt wasnt missing it was broken and a lame attempt to extract it broke a easy-out too...I ordered a new one from partzilla. fyi i never saw the oring that goes between the pump and the engine??
  • Like 2
Posted
Ok so since the bike is half naked i decide to check if it has been de-restricted. I check the ecu and all looks good. A proper unsealed wire jumper omg....


P1040847.jpg


I then check to see if the intake has the proper cut outs..


P1040845.jpg


My camera didnt fit but a light and mirror tells me its open :)
  • Like 2
Posted
When i bought the bike i knew the tires were shot as the date code was 2007. This helped negotiate the price down...As you can see they are dry rotted..


P1040864.jpg


P1040862.jpg


Tire are not cheap here $444.00 for a set...Normally this would included total removal balance and installation. Since they were so bad and the bikes not running i removed the wheels off the bike myself...


20130426_162842.jpg
  • Like 2
Posted

Hey thanks I will enjoy following your progress

You seem to know what goes where & why wink.png

You also have some experience

in restricted vs non

Will be fun to keep up with your project & thanks for posting.

I think you made the right choice going this route instead of the NC30 too

Good Luck !

Posted

Parts arrived last week smile.png...I installed the water pump and the cmos regulator.....

P1040911.jpg

Since the regulator is a oem upgrade i did not fit correctly. I temporally wire tied it untill i can have a new bracket fabricated...

P1040910.jpg

Posted

Since the bike was not charging properly i was hoping this was the cause of the idle problems. No charging may = poor spark , low power to the injectors, sensors , ecu , etc....

I started the bike and sadly i still have the rough idle. The good thing is the temperature is good and the bike is charging properly. I also installed the new cush drive without a issue....So i still need to troubleshoot the idle problem...I am not big on guessing i prefer to troubleshoot...

First is a spark plug inspection....It is a pain to remove these plugs as the radiator needs to be moved and a special tool is needed...

The 3rd plug looks suspect but i can not be certain that this is a issue...I cleaned them and re installed them. I also ordered a new set from the states..
P1040905.jpg
P1040906.jpg
Here you see some oil sludge above the threads
P1040907.jpg
P1040908.jpg
P1040909.jpg
With clean plugs this did not help the idle problem.
Posted

One of the problems is i am not getting any fault codes....I did find a way to pull the codes stored in the ecu....The dlc (service plug)is under the back seat. After some web research i found that grounding the 5v line will produce the stored codes...

I cleared all the codes and started the bike. It has the same issue but the codes did not return...These were codes before and i assume from the bad regulator and water pump. All cleared and they did not return...
Posted

They are good little sports bikes. Would like to have mine here....but sold it before I came over.

post-63954-0-41981200-1368166350_thumb.j

Posted (edited)

Might try a compression check, cylinder 3 which had the oil on the plug might be low, heats up and bad idle sometimes means bad rings, blown head gasket (if you have any white smoke most of the time). Can't remember though, maybe you checked this already but if the bike has individual coils (igniters) maybe the one for cylinder 3 (3rd Plug) is bad? When they heat up is when they start misfiring most of the time.

Of course the oil on plug 3 could just be the valve cover leaking, maybe the leak is causing the spark plug to jump or fire cold. Had this happen before but there was a LOT of oil not a little.

Best of luck, looks like a nice bike and will be great once you get it sorted for the track.

Edited by commande
Posted (edited)

Definitely not firing on all cylinders, suggest you start with the igniters. You can remove one plug wire at a time, start with 3. Start the bike if it idles the same you found your issue. Move to plug 1, replace plug 3 wire of course. Start, if it gets worse you just double verified the problem because now your 2 cylinders down instead of 1. Swap igniter from 3 to 1 and 1 to three. start engine should still run bad or the same as now. Remove 1 spark plug wire, should run the same as now. Replace 1 wire and remove 3, runs worse you found your bad igniter. Replace and all good.

If I remember correctly the igniters should be the same for all cylinders but it's been a while.

Edited by commande
Posted

So i am still narrowing the problem down. This is all over the course of a few weeks as its hot and i dont feel like screwing with it everyday. Two days ago i thought the ecu might be receiving a bad signal from the map sensor, Even though i didnt have a fault code i followed the manual and it seemed to test good,.,,While the bike was running i disconnected the vacuum hose from the map and the idle smoothed out a lot. This was weird as why would a open vacuum line help the idle when it should make it worse....I then removed all the lines from the map sensor to the throttle body for inspection. Although they looked good on the outside if you looked at the hole end you could see cracks. I replaced them all and the bike now does not stall out,,,,It still was not perfect and although i think i solved part of the problem its still not the way i wanted it....sorry no pics of the hoses....

Posted (edited)

I then decided to sync the starter valves. The cbr600rr carbs are basically pre adjusted at the factory except the starter valves which controls the idle. Let me say when you are running above idle the bike runs excellent....So here is my quickly made manometer to sync everything...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUCbAwml-iw

they were not way out of sync but needed some adjustment...this still did not solve my issue....

Edited by yankee99
  • Like 1
Posted

Definitely not firing on all cylinders, suggest you start with the igniters. You can remove one plug wire at a time, start with 3. Start the bike if it idles the same you found your issue. Move to plug 1, replace plug 3 wire of course. Start, if it gets worse you just double verified the problem because now your 2 cylinders down instead of 1. Swap igniter from 3 to 1 and 1 to three. start engine should still run bad or the same as now. Remove 1 spark plug wire, should run the same as now. Replace 1 wire and remove 3, runs worse you found your bad igniter. Replace and all good.

If I remember correctly the igniters should be the same for all cylinders but it's been a while.

You are absolutely correct and this is my next test.

Posted

Yankee. You should have it ready just in time for Bira . . . . To close down :P

That's happening soon isn't it?

Sent from my i-mobile i-STYLE Q6

Posted

I know you enjoy a project but that would drive me f'n nuts- I'm diggin' the thread, though.:)

Yankee. You should have it ready just in time for Bira . . . . To close down :pThat's happening soon isn't it? Sent from my i-mobile i-STYLE Q6

I really enjoy these projects and the work takes my mind off of other bs. If it come out properly i do get some satisfaction.. If bira closes i can go to a different track of course it wont be 10 minutes away.

If the book comes i also have a option to sell at a nice profit.

Posted

The 3rd plug looks suspect but i can not be certain that this is a issue...I cleaned them and re installed them. I also ordered a new set from the states..

Wouldn't it be easier to buy new plugs from a local bike shop?

Posted

The 3rd plug looks suspect but i can not be certain that this is a issue...I cleaned them and re installed them. I also ordered a new set from the states..

Wouldn't it be easier to buy new plugs from a local bike shop?

The short answer is NO. I dont seem to have any luck finding parts for a non thai made bike here. I could put in substitutes but that seems to be a waste of money. Previously bolts, clamps etc were replaced with non oem. I have ordered all oem to replace these.

Posted

I know you enjoy a project but that would drive me f'n nuts- I'm diggin' the thread, though.smile.png

>Yankee. You should have it ready just in time for Bira . . . . To close down :pThat's happening soon isn't it? Sent from my i-mobile i-STYLE Q6

I really enjoy these projects and the work takes my mind off of other bs. If it come out properly i do get some satisfaction.. If bira closes i can go to a different track of course it wont be 10 minutes away.

If the book comes i also have a option to sell at a nice profit.

Same here, I had 3 or 4 things to sort out (nothing major) on the GSXR when I bought it, it was quite satisfying getting it up to scratch. I've said before it's no big deal waiting a week or two for a part as long as it's not your only mode of transport. From what I've heard about the CBR500's and Forza's you can wait that long for a 'Made in Thailand' part (or a service) so it's no big deal.

Good luck with the project...

Posted

The 3rd plug looks suspect but i can not be certain that this is a issue...I cleaned them and re installed them. I also ordered a new set from the states..

Wouldn't it be easier to buy new plugs from a local bike shop?

The short answer is NO. I dont seem to have any luck finding parts for a non thai made bike here. I could put in substitutes but that seems to be a waste of money. Previously bolts, clamps etc were replaced with non oem. I have ordered all oem to replace these.

Panda Rider stocks NGK plugs from Japan if you decide to swap them out.

Posted

The 3rd plug looks suspect but i can not be certain that this is a issue...I cleaned them and re installed them. I also ordered a new set from the states..

Wouldn't it be easier to buy new plugs from a local bike shop?

The short answer is NO. I dont seem to have any luck finding parts for a non thai made bike here. I could put in substitutes but that seems to be a waste of money. Previously bolts, clamps etc were replaced with non oem. I have ordered all oem to replace these.

Panda Rider stocks NGK plugs from Japan if you decide to swap them out.

Good info to know. I have a order being re-shipped from partzilla with plugs and lots of goddies...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.




×
×
  • Create New...