Urgent Help - Think Local Mitsu Dealer Is Trying To Sell Me Old Discs

[angryfarang]

In the OP's first photo you can clearly see the vent slots and the hub end of the disc.

(where the wheel is bolted to) The metal is still shiny.

If they were old or second hand (resurfaced) discs then the metal would be discoloured

with a slight brown surface rust.

Like the image below:

So in my opinion they can't have been resurfaced or second hand.

The price of 3000bt though is very cheap for 4 discs and pads, so something just

doesn't add up.

Maybe they are fully reconditioned instead of brand new, the only way to know for sure

is to compare the thickness of the discs using a pair of verniers against the thickness

of a brand new disc.

additionally the idea of bleeding a hydraulic system here as a regular part of maintenance is non existent if you don't insist on an entire flush so there is a good possibility that has only been done enough to complete the job and not to refurbish the system as should be done.

I'm going to flush the system myself, I'm just waiting for my speed bleeder bags to arrive.

Too bad, I've designed and produced the only fully vacuum assisted, self bleeding system currently available in the world which is the only recommended way to bleed modern systems especially ABS systems. Haven't been able to get it on the market though sadly, too many people without vision. It works like no other though and even race tested and proven.

I was going to do it the old fashioned way, stick the speed bleeder bags on the bleed nipples. Get my friend to pump the brake's while I top up the reservoir...

[BSJ]

Secondhand rotors in new condition are as rare as hens teeth! Looking at the second pix it is a new rotor. The score mark could have been made at the rotor factory.....in which case it should have been put in the seconds pile.

The correct method of installing is to fit new wheel bearings with the new rotors. Before that you should clean rotor contact surface with acetone (paint thinner), then inspect for cracks under a strong lamp, if OK then check for trueness so that the run-out is within manufacturers specs. The hub should be wire brushed to ensure the contact surfaces sit true.

In the old days we lightly scored the rotors on the pad contact faces, but these days some people tell me that it isn't necessary.....

If you suspect the rotor is cracked you should do a chemical test. Fluorescent Dye is usually the cheapest as you only need to brush it on and inspect the rotor under a black light.