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Thailand 30 years ago.


kowpot

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Neeranam,

Your absolutely right. It was 40 years ago. How time flies. Somewhere I lost 10 years. I was thinking of the 70's.

But even 30 years ago. Up country was still far from much technology and they didn't have the swarm of retirees

they have now. No cell phones, no internet. not that many cars. It was still a grand place.

Edited by kowpot
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Just under 30 years ago I remember being told to stay in my Betong hotel as insurgents were having a shootout in the main street. Also remember being the first farangs in years to travel through a malay/thai border on our way to Phuket.

I also remember a little bit up the road from that border post being stopped at a makeshift check point and handing out beers to the "army". We only travelled with eskys full of cold beer in our car in those days. It was only as we drove away we realised the "army" were carrying a mix of AK47's and other non issue guns. We'd been stopped by insurgents.

Bangla road in Patong finished at sunset strip. Then there were dusty trips in the back of skylaps up in Issan with a bottle of mekong as company. No running water or telephones. You relied on the corner shop to keep stuff cold and buy ice.

Jungle trekking near Chiangmai with most of the akka village with malaria and thinking to myself I hope this bottle of mossie repellent still works.

It was fun in those days

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Flew in from Calcutta to Bkk Jan '72, took a room in the Malaysia hotel. It was air-con, and they must have had it turned down to 22°. Outside temp was about 40°. Three days in, I had a bad chest infection from going in and out of the hotel. Moved from there to a really sleazy little place next to Hua Lamphong station. Overhead fan, nubile wenches, and a cafe downstairs full of drunk and horny GIs on R&R. It was great! I left there with a case of 'Vietnam Rose' unfortunately, which wasn't quite so great. Oh well, swings and roundabouts I guess. Everything comes with a price-tag.

I actually hitch-hiked most of the way south to Malaysia - took a couple of months. People were great; friendly and welcoming. I stayed in a few temples en route, and they were great, too.

That was when I fell in love with Thailand. Things have changed. A lot. And not for the better, unfortunately. However, I still can't break the habit - I'm just a Thai junkie.

One thing I remember about then was the (long distance) bus drivers and conductors. They always looked really slick, with tailored uniforms and flared trousers. The drivers affected a sideways stance when they were driving (must have been very uncomfortable), and their seats were always pitched forward at an angle, so they were half standing, half sitting. They thought it was really cool to drive that way...

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Rose coloured glasses are all the go around here. I remember some good things back in the early eighties, but I also remember staying at the old Imperial Hotel in Wireless Road for a couple of months, a new building was going up next door, and the building workers lived in the building, and did all their ablutions in full view, including bowel evacuations.

If you were poor back then, you were really poor, and there was a lot of discrimination by the well off against those down the pecking order.

Some good things, the old Saigon Bakery on Silom, and that terrific shop that sold locally made tee shirts next door. The Saturday night buffet at the Oriental Hotel. In fact, all the hotel buffets, 100b net for a fabulous spread at lunchtime just about everywhere. No wonder I put on weight.

The girlie bars, of course. Especially the ones away from the main tourist areas, I lived in Phayonyothin Soi 4, and there was a wonderful locals bar up the road at Saphan Khwai. I do admit I took some comfort there.

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Kowpot was obviously describing the provinces (ISSAN in particular)of the 60's-70's. Having spent a lot of time there in that period I agree life was much simpler and slow paced. I also remember well that I lived in a wooden house on stilts with one light bulb and no running water. The roads were not paved and travel was difficult. Just didn't seem to be a problem then, but I would not consider living like that now.

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There really was only one deparment store and no malls in Bkk back then (Central Chidlom). We thought nothing of going clear across town for dinner.

I would agree that quality of life was much better for expats in BkK back then. Air cleaner, way less traffic, friendlier attitude towards foreigners etc. And I think friendlier for Thais as well. But much fewer economic opportunities for Thais and no universal health care then.

The countryside though IMO is vastly better now than then. There were some really, really third world conditions in many rural areas. I went on mobile health teams to villages where none of the children had shoes, no one had access to a doctor or pharmacy, women still had to give birth at home without trained attendant etc etc. No piped in water, no safe drinking water (in the dry season, scarcity of water period.). Roads in bad condition. No electricity. (Of course this is referring to the poorest rural villages...but there were lots of them like this). Improvements in the quality of life for people in rural areas has been immense and wonderful to see.It is much better now both for locals and expats.

Even in the past 10 years, lots of changes that have improved the quality of life in rural areas (of course some negative environmental changes too.). When I first settled in a rural part of Prachinburi in 1997 the electrical supply was erratic, no internet connection possible, nearest bank or 7 eleven was 40 km drive and no "super stores" at all. Now have a 7 eleven (ATM! Can pay bills! etc) only a km away, several internet options, electricity pretty good, and the provincial town has a Big C, Tesco Lotus and Home Pro. My Thai neighbors, who were really poor when I first settled, are noticeably better off and making their way into the lower middle and middle-middle class. Their lives are unquestionably better than before.

Rural infrastructure and social services (for Thais e.g. medical) , while far from ideal, have improved enormously since back then.

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And 40 years ago we were 40 years younger and had these rose tinted glasses and could suffer with much more ease and life in a 3rd world country was an exciting adventure.............no regrets, but I now need my creature comforts, internet and a safe vehicle.

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Rose coloured glasses are all the go around here. I remember some good things back in the early eighties, but I also remember staying at the old Imperial Hotel in Wireless Road for a couple of months, a new building was going up next door, and the building workers lived in the building, and did all their ablutions in full view, including bowel evacuations.

If you were poor back then, you were really poor, and there was a lot of discrimination by the well off against those down the pecking order.

Some good things, the old Saigon Bakery on Silom, and that terrific shop that sold locally made tee shirts next door. The Saturday night buffet at the Oriental Hotel. In fact, all the hotel buffets, 100b net for a fabulous spread at lunchtime just about everywhere. No wonder I put on weight.

The girlie bars, of course. Especially the ones away from the main tourist areas, I lived in Phayonyothin Soi 4, and there was a wonderful locals bar up the road at Saphan Khwai. I do admit I took some comfort there.

Rose Coloured Glasses? <deleted>? Yeah the QM issued them, along with the Condoms, at the Gangway before you proceeded ashore.

I look back on these days with great fondness as one generally does when he realises there are more days behind him, than there are in front. A magnificent experience for a young kid of 16 +. I still try to get my head around that at times. At the time I never really thought about it. It was 'normal'. it is only in retrospect that I realise it wasn't.

as far as R&R Destinations were concerned, Bangkok was by far THE most popular of them all...... thats not Rose Coloured Glasses. that's a fact, as you see below there was no shortage of decent competition.

(R&R Destiunations) Hawaii, Sydney, Bangkok, Hong Kong, Kuala Lampur & Penang, Manila, Singapore, Taipei, Tokyo.

Edited by cpofc
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I was told it was a certain politician not that long ago that made cell phones affordable for the poorer Thais.

Nice story op. I'm to young to know any different but 40 years from now someone will be telling the story again no doubt.

Sadly progress and time keep marching forward.

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   Rose coloured glasses are all the go around here.  I remember some good things back in the early eighties, but I also remember staying at the old Imperial Hotel in Wireless Road for a couple of months, a new building was going up next door, and the building workers lived in the building, and did all their ablutions in full view, including bowel evacuations.

 

  If you were poor back then, you were really poor, and there was a lot of discrimination by the well off against those down the pecking order.

 

  Some good things, the old Saigon Bakery on Silom, and that terrific shop that sold locally made tee shirts next door.  The Saturday night buffet at the Oriental Hotel.  In fact, all the hotel buffets, 100b net for a fabulous spread at lunchtime just about everywhere.  No wonder I put on weight.

 

 The girlie bars, of course.  Especially the ones away from the main tourist areas, I lived in Phayonyothin Soi 4, and there was a wonderful locals bar up the road at Saphan Khwai.  I do admit I took some comfort there.

Saphan Kwai was a great secret. I wonder if its still the same after 15 years.

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Thailand 30 years later: there are rip off machines placed all over the city, one only need to insert a coin in order to get a bright idea generated by the machine for that day, regarding how to rip off a farang. If the coin used is one that was taken out of a foreign pocket, they get a bonus idea.

Carrying a sword is legal as you need to cut yourself through the overwhelming amount of electric cables everytime you leave your home.

The gem shops and massage parlors, bars etc are non existent as you dont have a choice if you want to walk into one of those establishments. They visit you at home and refuse to leave until you pay+tip. There is no corruption. But there is an injection that makes you willing to support authorities or whoever is in need. You can buy land, house anything and own it 100%. The government automatically inherits everything after 3 years. The mosquitoes that are infected with dengue are now smart. They fly around in groups and hunt you down. If you kill one it doesn't die. Instead it multiplies and retaliates. Upon arrival at the airport you are warned of all the possible dangers..in thai.

Sent from one of my devices using the internet

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For me was 26 years ago in Phuket. Arrived at the airport and taxi'd into Patong. I remember getting to the crest of the hill coming in from the North side and seeing what looked like a fairly quaint village stretching from the North to the South with a lot of gaps in between.

The taxi driver talked me into a new hotel on the South end of the beach that is no longer there and I realized after a night, that I was paying way too much for what was available and moved North to the Sandy Rooms right on the beach and within about 50m from the end of Bangla Road. Can't remember the price, but is was a fraction of what the new hotel was.

Hired an MTX 200 motorcycle and drove all over Phuket with a beer bar girl I met the night before. You could drive your motorbike up to the beer bar and park in front of your stool at any of the beer bars off of Bangla Road. Even drove it into the ocean a few days later and it only cost me a few hundred dollars to have it stripped down and put back together. The owner was not pleased, but I assured him I would pay to have it repaired and did, the dip in the sea was not my intention, just got too close and did not realize the surf would come that far in at that point. Rented bikes from him many times thereafter.

A few days later, decided that this was going to be my R&R place for the forseeable future and rented a small house toward the left side at the base of the hill off of the road to Karon Beach. Cost US$300/month and ended up splitting that with my offshore back-to-back for 2 years but then only stayed in it for 5 months of that period.

There was a 3 or 4 story shopping centre in Phuket Town and other than that, closest thing to a shopping centre was a few years later, the Banana Disco complex in Patong. Though calling it a shopping centre is a stretch. First visit, I was not feeling well one day and the Thai girl I was with suggested we go to the Shopping Centre in Phuket town and get me some medicine. I thought she meant a clinic and was all for it but did not feel well enough to go by motor bike. She said her "sister" had a car and could take us for a price. The "sister" showed up in a rental korean SUV of the time and was not quite a "sister" but not quite a brother either. He/she drove us to Phuket town and they left me in the air conditioned SUV and said they would be back. A few minutes later they came back and handed me Falang Medicine, panadol! I got better with time in any case and did not have the heart to tell the dear girl that I already had a family size box of panadol back at the room.

Kamala Beach was at the end of a paved that became dirt road and was mostly deserted. There was only one little hut right on the beach that sold beers and cokes on ice, I got stuck there in a rain storm and took a picture of a soaked but smiling Thai girl that I was hanging out with from that wet day. I was fond of that picture for many years and then my first wife discovered it one day and decided that pictures of girls I knew before I met her should be binned.

I don't go to Phuket any more because of the over population and my memories of Patong are of a place that does not exist in Thailand, even in the undeveloped but developing tourist areas. I now live in East Pattaya, almost as far out as East Pattaya goes, and though very comfortable, I don't really feel like I live in the same country as it was back then.

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Just under 30 years ago I remember being told to stay in my Betong hotel as insurgents were having a shootout in the main street. Also remember being the first farangs in years to travel through a malay/thai border on our way to Phuket.

I also remember a little bit up the road from that border post being stopped at a makeshift check point and handing out beers to the "army". We only travelled with eskys full of cold beer in our car in those days. It was only as we drove away we realised the "army" were carrying a mix of AK47's and other non issue guns. We'd been stopped by insurgents.

Bangla road in Patong finished at sunset strip. Then there were dusty trips in the back of skylaps up in Issan with a bottle of mekong as company. No running water or telephones. You relied on the corner shop to keep stuff cold and buy ice.

Jungle trekking near Chiangmai with most of the akka village with malaria and thinking to myself I hope this bottle of mossie repellent still works.

It was fun in those days

My first week here in 1992, I took a stroll from Khao San Road to Sanam Luang. I knew nothing of any politacal unrest. It was pretty scary as the whole place got surrounded by army tanks and trucks. I decided to get the hell out and have a few beers. Ended up getting some cheap Thai rum. Can't remember much until about 5 years later.

Ended up getting some cheap Thai rum.Can't remember much until about 5 years later.

That must have been some pretty strong stuff biggrin.png

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I was told it was a certain politician not that long ago that made cell phones affordable for the poorer Thais.

That certain politician had a monopoly on the sale of mobile phones, and were priced at 3 times of what they were outside Thailand.

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Listen to stories. Like we are now. Its good hearing stories about how it was back then. I enjoy it. In another way it's kind of sad. Times change, nothing anyone can do. Is it for the better, or worse? Thailand population is approximately 70 million and it's not slowing down. Land size is relatively small. I perish the thought of what or where it's going.

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30 years ago? 1983. let's see. There was a Burger King at the end of Patpong Road. The Foodland Supermarket was there then and then there was the Villa Market on Sukhumvit (also still there today) Soi 22 was a slum area. I know because I lived in one there. Department stores - NO. I remember going out to buy a fridge, table chairs, kitchen buffet and cooktop at the time and there were no stores. All you could buy was Sanyo Fridges, Sony Trinitron TVs. Taxis no meters, every trip was negotiated. Phuket had a small domestic airport. A night or day ferry to Samui, again no airport. No hotels. hardly any motor vehicles and dirt tracks. Chiang Mai - so beautiful and rural. I could go on for a long time. Hehehe Thai TV. Abut 4 farang shows per week. ABC Wide World of Sports on a Sunday. Followed by Ripleys. Cartoon came on after the news, All off by 2300 (or thereabouts). Only source of news,. The Bangkok Post every morning. Thailands 3rd Choice of beer sapart from Singha and Amarit appeared. Kloster. Patpong was THE centre of Thai social life and entertainment. Nana hotel and the coffee shop there but not much else. Certainly no NEP or beer bars. The Ambassador Hotel, with all the birds in the big cages as you walked in. The Dicken Pub. Thermae Coffee shop - or 'Starwars Cafe'. Soi Cowboy - a motely collection of few dingy bars mostly frequented by Oil Riggers. I had never hear of Kao Sarn Road in 1983. The area aroubnd the Malaysia Hotel was where the hippies all hung out. Apat from Samui and Phuket, who were about the only ones there. (backpackers) Cowboy moved out of Soi Cowboy and opened his new bar just up the road from me in Washington Square. Siam Centre was the only ritzy shopping centre like we know today. One went to the pictures at Siam or Scala, or washington to sit in the aircon hahaha. Siam Park was going then,. We would often take the kids out on a Sunday. In the back of what they called 'Super Loos' then. Exchange rate around 22-23 - 1 AUD

40 Years ago. Wow. it was different then! The R&R Hotels were the go. Club sandwiches and milkshakes in the coffee shop. Juke Box with farang hits. Air con Rooms. Swimming pool. The actual bar scene wasn't that big really. Massage parlours were the go. A couple of bars around Asoke owned by some former US GIs. 'The Dirty Old Ma's Club' - US Military BOQ and R&R Centre at the Windsor Hotel. had a nice little bar downstairs. Taxi were a big Yank Tank with a driver who you would hire for the duration of your visit. if you got a good one then it was sit back and enjoy the ride!! and what a ride.

Early 70s, it would be remiss of me not to give the coffee shop at the Grace Hotel a very special mention. Unbelievable.

Yeah changed alright, but then so has everything else.

"...the Malaysia Hotel was where the hippies all hung out." Also the likes of Charles Sobhraj and Ajay Chowdury.

I agree that many things have changed, and not for the better, especially in Chiang Mai, but there were dangers that the modernization of Thailand has lessened, if not entirely eliminated.

It's a different place today.

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Listen to stories. Like we are now. Its good hearing stories about how it was back then. I enjoy it. In another way it's kind of sad. Times change, nothing anyone can do. Is it for the better, or worse? Thailand population is approximately 70 million and it's not slowing down. Land size is relatively small. I perish the thought of what or where it's going.

What you mean, land size is relatively small? There is still so much uncultivated land in Thailand that if the population should double overnight you probably wouldn't notice it.

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Still got the torch I used to navigate along the track that passed for a road at the back of Chaweng beach on Samui. Stayed at a place called Samui Cabana, when the girl running the bar got tired she would go off to bed and just tell us to write down what we had and pay in the morning. The treks over to the GPO in Bangkok to pick up poste restante mail. The Thermae. smile.png

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Great thread. Beats the usual arguing and negativity on TVF. Like reading old stories and some good ones too,

Stayed at a place called Samui Cabana, when the girl running the bar got tired she would go off to bed and just tell us to write down what we had and pay in the morning

Had the same thing happen in Thailand just 3 to 4 years ago. When owner got tired she went off to bed left me and my mate the keys and told us to help ourselves to beer and leave money on the bar. Hide the keys in a prearranged place and jobs done. Every night for the week we were there.

I've been back since and she says now she can't even have the help yourself to a beer policy that she had as too many people were helping themselves then not paying.

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