Thailand 30 years ago.

[kowpot]

I think the whole idea of writing this post, was to show why a lot of people chose to retire in Thailand. It was not to have Walmart, Tesco, Big C and all of the fast food places. It was to show how a less fast pace world around us is a good thing too. Yes, there have been vast improvements, but the old ways were good also.

Admit it. Isn't there a day when you think about the good o' days?

[cpofc]

For me was 26 years ago in Phuket. Arrived at the airport and taxi'd into Patong. I remember getting to the crest of the hill coming in from the North side and seeing what looked like a fairly quaint village stretching from the North to the South with a lot of gaps in between.

The taxi driver talked me into a new hotel on the South end of the beach that is no longer there and I realized after a night, that I was paying way too much for what was available and moved North to the Sandy Rooms right on the beach and within about 50m from the end of Bangla Road. Can't remember the price, but is was a fraction of what the new hotel was.

Hired an MTX 200 motorcycle and drove all over Phuket with a beer bar girl I met the night before. You could drive your motorbike up to the beer bar and park in front of your stool at any of the beer bars off of Bangla Road. Even drove it into the ocean a few days later and it only cost me a few hundred dollars to have it stripped down and put back together. The owner was not pleased, but I assured him I would pay to have it repaired and did, the dip in the sea was not my intention, just got too close and did not realize the surf would come that far in at that point. Rented bikes from him many times thereafter.

A few days later, decided that this was going to be my R&R place for the forseeable future and rented a small house toward the left side at the base of the hill off of the road to Karon Beach. Cost US$300/month and ended up splitting that with my offshore back-to-back for 2 years but then only stayed in it for 5 months of that period.

There was a 3 or 4 story shopping centre in Phuket Town and other than that, closest thing to a shopping centre was a few years later, the Banana Disco complex in Patong. Though calling it a shopping centre is a stretch. First visit, I was not feeling well one day and the Thai girl I was with suggested we go to the Shopping Centre in Phuket town and get me some medicine. I thought she meant a clinic and was all for it but did not feel well enough to go by motor bike. She said her "sister" had a car and could take us for a price. The "sister" showed up in a rental korean SUV of the time and was not quite a "sister" but not quite a brother either. He/she drove us to Phuket town and they left me in the air conditioned SUV and said they would be back. A few minutes later they came back and handed me Falang Medicine, panadol! I got better with time in any case and did not have the heart to tell the dear girl that I already had a family size box of panadol back at the room.

Kamala Beach was at the end of a paved that became dirt road and was mostly deserted. There was only one little hut right on the beach that sold beers and cokes on ice, I got stuck there in a rain storm and took a picture of a soaked but smiling Thai girl that I was hanging out with from that wet day. I was fond of that picture for many years and then my first wife discovered it one day and decided that pictures of girls I knew before I met her should be binned.

I don't go to Phuket any more because of the over population and my memories of Patong are of a place that does not exist in Thailand, even in the undeveloped but developing tourist areas. I now live in East Pattaya, almost as far out as East Pattaya goes, and though very comfortable, I don't really feel like I live in the same country as it was back then.

early in 1983 I was down at a sleepy little place on the Island of Mindoro in the PI, called Puerta Galera. At Sabang Beach there was a restaurant right on the waters edge called the Tamarind Tree (had a big tamarind tree growing out of the guts of it). A big young Swedish bloke, Bernie, had married into the local. old, Lopez Family there, and we became good mates. He also had his mate from Sweden with him too by the name of Lenart. great days. Spear fishing out on the reef all morning and drinking and playing monopoly for real pesos in the afternoon.

One day a Pommy bloke turned up out of the blue. He was on holidays from teaching English in Saudi. So many farang 'travellers' in those days were working in Saudi in lots of different occupations. One day he asked me if had I ever been to Thailand before. Of course many times, I said, why do you ask.

he said he had just come from Goa in India and all the backpackers and travellers there were talking about this place in Thailand called Phuket. At the time I had never heard of the place. So I made up my mind to go. Later that year Ninoy Aqino was assassinated as he got off the plane in Manila, I honestly though the place was going to erupt into a blood bath and revised my plans. I then found out a former Oppo of mine was working for the Dept of Foreign Affairs in the Australian Embassy in Bangkok. So off I went.

Next thing I know I am in Phuket. 14 Hours on a Bus from Bangkok. A hair raising trip. Stayed at 'Paradise Bungalows'. owned by a yank bloke, Ex Military I think. i9t also had an open air bar on the beach front. Do you remember Leks Number 4 Café? Now there was a good place to hang out of an evening. And the Kangaroo Bar where I mated up with a bloke who was a painter and docker from Newcastle, Australia, and a half owner. Paul Maher. I wonder whatever became of these people.

I thought Phuket was THE place to be. The only hotel was in Phuket town. The merlin I think. Military road blocks all over the island. But no problem, having an Australian Military ID Card was a help at times. Nothing in the way of transport. No taxis. No Motorbikes Taxis. A few Song Taos. I used to hire a jeep.

Anyway it was then, in Phuket I got to hear about Samui.

Samui didn't even have electricity!!!!! It WAS truly paradise. I fell instantly in love with it. I always stayed at First Bunglow, Chaweng. Right next to the beach volley ball court. I used to hire the owners Jeep off him if we wanted to piss off around the island any time. They had a petrol electric generator that they put on for a couple of hours in the evening. VCRs had not long been invented and this new whiz bang technology was all the rage. Can't tell you how many times I watched the movie called 'The Thing'. Apart from that there was no other form of entertainment. Just sitting on the beach at night with backpackers from all over, a fire going, people playing guitars, singing, exchanging 'travellers stories', drinking Mekhong and smoking dope. All very simple.

Some Bungalows on Samui were only 20 Baht a day. Not my go, but very handy for the hippies and backpackers.

I haven't been back to Phuket or Samui since the late eighties and seriously doubt I ever will.

Edited September 20, 2013 by cpofc

[JemJem]

Nice topic. Lots of new knowledge for me. For example, I didn't know that there was a Burger King in Bangkok as early as in 1983. Also, I had thought Kloster was the beer that came to the market after the first-ever one in Thailand, Singha. But someone wrote it was Amarit that came second.

I first came to Thailand in early 1988 but that was a relatively short visit of 2-3 weeks. I enjoyed almost everything in Thailand back then, except the cockroaches, and having to negotiate the rate for taxis (as far as I know, none of the taxis had meters, but I could be wrong; maybe there were a few with meters).

[AbeSurd]

Thats how it was, that's how it was for me.

Thank you. That's one of the best stories I've read on ThaiVisa for quite a long time.

[geronimo]

I arrived in 1984 and it was just awesome, the girls, the prices, the weather, that was it for me and I'll be here until I leave this world.

[wamberal]

The OP's assertion that "most students did not know what they were protesting about, they just went along with the crowd", is probably the most stupid single opinion ever posted here. And that is saying something.

Ask the friends and relatives of the students massacred at Thammasat University in 1976, who were opposing a brutal military dictatorship - 70 or more young lives, cut down in their prime.

They gave their lives, but according to you, most students did not know what they were protesting about. You are an ignoramus.

[cpofc]

In June 74 we sailed from Australia, Sydney, for the 'Far East Station' in company with a Royal Navy Task Group. After a wearisome 42 DAYS at sea, leaving the Task Group, we arrived at Khlong Toey, along with one Royal Navy Leander Frigate which had also split from the Task Group. We actually went alonside and were not stuck out at the Dolphins in the middle of the river, which was the usual case.

From the time we berthed we could sense something was up. There is a buzz going around the ship.

Just before Midday (where we had all expected to be granted 'Liberty' from Midday). They piped 'clear lower deck' and mustered the entire Ship's Company on the fo'c'sle where the Skipper, an Australian Consulate Offical, and the Military Attache informed us that there was a dangerous situation in Bangkok. Protests had turned violent and ugly and people were being killed. Therefore all leave would be stopped. Noone would be allowed ashore for the duration.

Immediately a murmur of discontent rippled through the ranks. Especially since the planned Officers Cocktail Party on the Upperdeck for that evening was still going ahead!

They dismissed us and told us to carry on. We would be kept updated on the local situation.

Midway through the afternnoon they fell us in again and told us the situation still hadn't improved ashore. More mutterings of discontent from the ranks.

Another update followed soon after where they would allow us ashore but we would be restricted to 'Cindarella Liberty'. (I.E. Leave expires onboard at 2359). This enraged us even further! i think all of us, collectively, instantly made up our minds on the spot, that if they let us go at 1600 on a Friday afternnoon there was no way they were going to see us again until 0750 Monday morning. The punishment return for that month was going to be as long as the Skippers Leg.

They soon after realised this and finally threw the whistle in the air and walked off. Reluctantly granting us a full weekend off. However our Royal Navy mates were not so fortunate, they were restricted to Cindarella Leave.

Patpong was deemed OFF LIMITS. A few thrill seekers ventured in to Patpong, but soon got out after witnessing some nasty things. The rest of us harboured up at the New World (R&R) Hotel.

I was also here in 75 when Saigon and Phnom Phen fell. Transitting the disputed waters around Koh Tang. At the time of the Mayaguez incident. (The last Battle) More protests in Bangkok. And then again in 76. More protests.

At the time I have to say, honestly, I didn't want to know about the politics of what was happening in Thailand.

But it was the students that did it. Others have tried to take some of the 'glory'. But they were the catalysts of change. Who died and were prepared to die for their cause.

I have got to meet a few former activists from those days in recent years. Do not underestimate what they did. Or why. Would I have the guts to do what they did? I truly don't know. I would like to think so.

[Denim]

Just about everywhere was better 30 years ago, mostly because there were a lot few humans around. I remember that there used to be a school on Rama 4 where Robinsons is now and further along there was ' Nicks ' Hungarian resteraunt that looked like a haunted house on a big corner plot off Sathorn. The highest building was either the Dusit Thani or the Golden Mount.

a Thai friend of mine remembers that when he was a monk as a kid, to go from his temple in downtown Bangkok to another in Lam Luk ka was an all day journey using canals and boats.

[Neeranam]

Here is an excellent topic for nostalgia - What Was Thailand Like Years Ago

I agree - excellent thread.

[kowpot]

wamberal

I was not referring to the Massacre of Oct, 1976. I had left Thailand the month of January, 1976.

I was talking years before that. I mean why don't you bring up the 80's and 90's for that matter.

Thailand has had some turbulent years. I remember having to come to Thailand and fly members of the Thai army (General Staff) out of Thailand to Singapore until things cooled down. This was in the early 90's.

I was referring to a different time. You can call me what you want if it makes you sound more important. But, you are losing the tranquility of the thread.

[Tolley]

I remember going to Samui in 79 or 80 and catching a ferry over and then getting in the back of pick up for the trip to Chaewang Beach. Stayed in a beach hut for 30 baht a night shared with another guy so 15 baht a head. There were only two families mom and pop operations on the beach. No hotels no airport.

A couple of Aussies had been busted the week before for smoking ganga and were exhorted by the local BIB. We were told to be careful if we wanted to smoke. There were plenty of scams going on back then and many are still going on 30 years later. eg gem scam, sick buffalo scams, casino scam etc etc

Saw a guy murdered outside the Grace Hotel in Bangkok shot in the head at point blank range about 50 metres from where I was standing.

[p_brownstone]

Just about everywhere was better 30 years ago, mostly because there were a lot few humans around. I remember that there used to be a school on Rama 4 where Robinsons is now and further along there was ' Nicks ' Hungarian resteraunt that looked like a haunted house on a big corner plot off Sathorn. The highest building was either the Dusit Thani or the Golden Mount.

I would not say everything "was better" 30 years ago - things simply change over time.

Very early '70's the 2 tallest buildings in Bangkok were the Chokechai Building on Sukhumvit opposite Soi 39 or so and, at that time, the very newly completed Dusit Thani Hotel.

Nicks No. 1, just off Wireless Circle, was one of my favourite late night places for a quiet Dinner, I lived a few hundred metres down Sathorn from his place at that time and would eat there at least 5 or 6 times a month simply because it was so convenient and, with Nick Jero there, so convivial.

Patrick

[Tywais]

Just about everywhere was better 30 years ago, mostly because there were a lot few humans around. I remember that there used to be a school on Rama 4 where Robinsons is now and further along there was ' Nicks ' Hungarian resteraunt that looked like a haunted house on a big corner plot off Sathorn. The highest building was either the Dusit Thani or the Golden Mount.

Very early '70's the 2 tallest buildings in Bangkok were the Chokechai Building on Sukhumvit opposite Soi 39 or so and, at that time, the very newly completed Dusit Thani Hotel.

Another tall building I remember when I was working there 68-69 was the Narai hotel that had recently been completed. The novelty at the time for me was it had a revolving restaurant and I thought that was so cool.

[kowpot]

Does anyone remember the Choke Chai Steakhouse in Bangkok? I am not sure if it is still there or not. I use to love that place. The few times I went to Bangkok from Ubon back in the early 70's I would go there. But, if it is. I would like to go back when I return.

[villagefarang]

Just about everywhere was better 30 years ago, mostly because there were a lot few humans around. I remember that there used to be a school on Rama 4 where Robinsons is now and further along there was ' Nicks ' Hungarian resteraunt that looked like a haunted house on a big corner plot off Sathorn. The highest building was either the Dusit Thani or the Golden Mount.

Very early '70's the 2 tallest buildings in Bangkok were the Chokechai Building on Sukhumvit opposite Soi 39 or so and, at that time, the very newly completed Dusit Thani Hotel.

Another tall building I remember when I was working there 68-69 was the Narai hotel that had recently been completed. The novelty at the time for me was it had a revolving restaurant and I thought that was so cool.

I usually say there were three tall buildings in town in the mid 70s, the Indra Hotel, the Dusit and the Chokechai but I guess you could include the Narai.

Edited September 21, 2013 by villagefarang

[cpofc]

I really couldn't tell you about the tallest buildings during that time. But at my age at this time I bet I could have leapt over them.

Anyone remember The Tip Top Restaurant just up from Soi 22. Pepper Steak on the sizzling platter. Very good for its day. They opened another in Patpong some years later.

[Minpin]

Sorry had to use my wifes account as mine seems to be not working

Have not posted here for some years but found this thread after googling for something else.

I first arrived in Thailand in 1969 but that is for another thread as this is about Thailand 30 years ago and is my own personnel experience.

My recollections from that period could be muddled up regarding dates and events, so please correct me if you know otherwise. My disappointment is that after moving house several times the majority of photos from that period are lost.

So 1983.

If you were arriving in BKK there was no terminal one or two. Construction of what became terminal one had just commenced. The arrival hall then was situated in what is now called the VIP lounge. As you drive up the ramp to access departures at terminal one and two, at ground level look left and you will see the entrance to the old original terminal. I am always amazed how small it is. Domestic terminal was one very small room inside main terminal. Once went to Chiang Mai in a HS 748 (propellers) carry your own bag to the foot of the plane steps and the ground crew would take care of it. On arrivals back in BKK the ground crew carried baggage in to the room.

Immigration was 4? lines, three foreign, one Thai. 15 days visa on arrival. Every bag was opened by customs and searched. Anything none tourist required duty to be paid. no reciept. (So no change there) But to put that into perspective, I think Thailand were trying to get 1 million tourists that year so things were a lot quieter. Which I think all the old timers here miss. Certainly I do.

Certainly there was taxis, No meter for sure, perhaps blue in colour? No elevated highway to town and all the road side businesses were industrial.

Nana was the hotel of choice. 440 baht a night.

Nightlife was Patpong. Patpong was a different animal then compared to now. There was a mix of venues instead of the wall to wall go gos and rip off joints as today. Did you know there was a Christian Book Shop in Patpong in 1983? Always wondered how many bibles they sold to the God fearing clientel that frequented Patpong. The normal book shop in Patpong had the contract with the aero plane cleaners at Don Muang so foreign newspapers (used) were available only one day old. Crossword half done but who cared That was the only source of news papers.

No internet. Nana hotel had no IDD had to go through the operator. Most overseas calls had to be done at the CAT office No Faxes

Regarding a previous post I think at the Silom end of Patpong it was a Hardees or Arbys. Later it became Tom Quiks, can't remember Burger King being there.

.Still a few airline offices were open on the street.

Traffic was much less except at the peak times when it was horrendous. Once Nana to Patpong at 5 o'clock at night 2 1/2 hours.

No ATMs. I used to get travelers cheques on my AMEX card at the office in the Siam Hotel where Paragon is now. No getting a queue number in them days, first thing you got was a cup of coffee.

Macdonalds were the first fast food to open in Thailand. In the Amirin Plaza, still there today. The views of the readers of the Bangkok World (Bangkok residents read the World, tourists read the Post) was that as Thais had no concept of fast food, it would be bust in 1 year.

Beer was Singha, Amarit, (mostly draft, sold in German themed bars) but also available in bottles and Kloster which was actually brewed under licience by Amarit

As you walked from Nana down Sukhumwit, if you saw another Farang there was a good chance you would at least know where they drank. As I said earlier everything was a much reduced scale than today.

Pattaya was a 5 hour A/C bus ride along Bang Na Trat. Beer sold on board so not too bad. Going for a jimmy riddle on the swaying bus was an adventure 555. On Friday night or holidays the orange crush was sometimes the only way to Pattaya. Once did it standing all the way. Bus stopped every 100 yards or so it seemed, probably took 7 hours. The things we did for a fun weekend!

Pattaya was 1/1000 the size as it is now. Jomtien beach road was a dirt road! One ria beach front land in Jomtien was 9500 US then 237,500 baht.

I think 83 was when the baht went from 18 to the dollar to 25. Have no recollection on the price of beer so it could not have been expensive!

Beach Inn Hotel Pattaya on walking street was 100 baht a night. Was a little run down but the staff treated you like a king which is sadly missing in Thailand now.

A previous post mentioned going to Phuket in 83. I was sure it was 83 that I went but I could be mistaken as the post bears no resemblence to my trip but maybe my year is not correct.

I stayed on Patong in the Patong Beach hotel. Three floors, large landscaped gardens with bungalows around the grounds. Turn right about 100 yards a group of restaurants and bars. I remember the Austrian rest. and the seafood rest. which had their back to the sea. Opposite side facing the sea were a couple of bars, can not remember any names. That was about all the entertainment there was.

Turn left out of the Patong Beach hotel and you could only walk a couple of kms due to a creek that had no bridge over it. On the Patong side of the creek was the Seagull Cottages.

Shopping in BKK in 83. Foodland in Patpong (see, that place again,centre of expats life) Central Chitlom, Big Bell opposite British embassy on Plonchit which burned down and Amirin Plaza.

This is my memories of 1983 only. Some things could be later or earlier but using the year I went to Phuket as a guide I think the time scale is close.

Do I miss those days? Bloodly right I do. But I still have the memories!

PS

Regarding the post that states Mr Ts company gave poor people access to mobile phones. BS

83 was maybe the year I bought my mobile.

Cost over 1000 dollars. Yes dollars. Broke down after 3 months. Discovered it was a discontinued model that had been withdrawn from the European market TWO years previously. Phone was actually a 5 year old model. Someone must have bought discontinued models at a knock down price. Who could that have been I wonder.

DTAC or whatever they were called gave poor people access to cheap phones. No more monopoly.

[Banzai99]

in 1990 it was 200 Baht for a short time and 400 all night in the Blue house, all inclusive.

[Metapod]

Would have loved to have been to Thailand 30 years ago. Only problem was I wasn't born at the time.

[Arkady]

30 years ago? 1983. let's see. There was a Burger King at the end of Patpong Road. The Foodland Supermarket was there then and then there was the Villa Market on Sukhumvit (also still there today) Soi 22 was a slum area. I know because I lived in one there. Department stores - NO. I remember going out to buy a fridge, table chairs, kitchen buffet and cooktop at the time and there were no stores. All you could buy was Sanyo Fridges, Sony Trinitron TVs. Taxis no meters, every trip was negotiated. Phuket had a small domestic airport. A night or day ferry to Samui, again no airport. No hotels. hardly any motor vehicles and dirt tracks. Chiang Mai - so beautiful and rural. I could go on for a long time. Hehehe Thai TV. Abut 4 farang shows per week. ABC Wide World of Sports on a Sunday. Followed by Ripleys. Cartoon came on after the news, All off by 2300 (or thereabouts). Only source of news,. The Bangkok Post every morning. Thailands 3rd Choice of beer sapart from Singha and Amarit appeared. Kloster. Patpong was THE centre of Thai social life and entertainment. Nana hotel and the coffee shop there but not much else. Certainly no NEP or beer bars. The Ambassador Hotel, with all the birds in the big cages as you walked in. The Dicken Pub. Thermae Coffee shop - or 'Starwars Cafe'. Soi Cowboy - a motely collection of few dingy bars mostly frequented by Oil Riggers. I had never hear of Kao Sarn Road in 1983. The area aroubnd the Malaysia Hotel was where the hippies all hung out. Apat from Samui and Phuket, who were about the only ones there. (backpackers) Cowboy moved out of Soi Cowboy and opened his new bar just up the road from me in Washington Square. Siam Centre was the only ritzy shopping centre like we know today. One went to the pictures at Siam or Scala, or washington to sit in the aircon hahaha. Siam Park was going then,. We would often take the kids out on a Sunday. In the back of what they called 'Super Loos' then. Exchange rate around 22-23 - 1 AUD

40 Years ago. Wow. it was different then! The R&R Hotels were the go. Club sandwiches and milkshakes in the coffee shop. Juke Box with farang hits. Air con Rooms. Swimming pool. The actual bar scene wasn't that big really. Massage parlours were the go. A couple of bars around Asoke owned by some former US GIs. 'The Dirty Old Ma's Club' - US Military BOQ and R&R Centre at the Windsor Hotel. had a nice little bar downstairs. Taxi were a big Yank Tank with a driver who you would hire for the duration of your visit. if you got a good one then it was sit back and enjoy the ride!! and what a ride.

Early 70s, it would be remiss of me not to give the coffee shop at the Grace Hotel a very special mention. Unbelievable.

Yeah changed alright, but then so has everything else.

Some corrections on 30 years ago. The burger place at the end of Patpong was McDonalds as it is now. Central Dept Store was already in Chidlom and Silom. Robinson was in Ratchdamri Road. The Nation was started in the 70s as an additional source of English language news. You forgot to mention the smoke from two stroke tuk tuks before they were all converted to LPG and the motor bikes that sometimes made it hard to see from one side of the road to the other and the risk of being mown down by a motor bike crossing the road in Patpong before the market was there.

[Shayne123]

Rose coloured glasses are all the go around here. I remember some good things back in the early eighties, but I also remember staying at the old Imperial Hotel in Wireless Road for a couple of months, a new building was going up next door, and the building workers lived in the building, and did all their ablutions in full view, including bowel evacuations.

If you were poor back then, you were really poor, and there was a lot of discrimination by the well off against those down the pecking order.

Some good things, the old Saigon Bakery on Silom, and that terrific shop that sold locally made tee shirts next door. The Saturday night buffet at the Oriental Hotel. In fact, all the hotel buffets, 100b net for a fabulous spread at lunchtime just about everywhere. No wonder I put on weight.

The girlie bars, of course. Especially the ones away from the main tourist areas, I lived in Phayonyothin Soi 4, and there was a wonderful locals bar up the road at Saphan Khwai. I do admit I took some comfort there.