Luang Prabang or Siem Reap from BKK or SGN

[PadHopper]

Hi everyone.

My wife and I would like to visit either or both of the above-mentioned destinations in May/June. We'll definitely be in BKK, perhaps also in Chiang Mai. Her family lives in Saigon, and that will be where we will be spending most of our time.

My question is essentially: Should I avoid traveling in Laos and Cambodia by bus? We like trains; we're not big fans of organized tours; I prefer being on the ground when experiencing a new place. My wife has expressed undisguised horror at the notion of possibly taking the long bus ride from Hanoi to LB. I would probably love the scenery myself. Any ideas or other options?

She's 36, I'm 56, if that matters. We're obviously not bare-bones backpackers, but not rich either.

[craigt3365]

I've not done the bus trip from Hanoi to Cambodia, but have been on buses in both Laos and Cambodia. It's been several years since I've done it, so my experiences may not be relevant now. But I doubt much has changed.

From Bangkok, I took a bus to Nong Khai, got a taxi to Vientiane, then took a bus to Vang Vieng and eventually to LP. The bus in Thailand was VIP and wonderful. The buses in Laos were...well...interesting. Luckily, it's not a very long trip. So it wasn't a big deal. But it's definitely 3rd world. For me, having done the bus route up north several times through Issan, I'd fly next time. The scenery was interesting the first time, but not so much now. Or, I'd take the night train.

From Bangkok, I got a deal from an agent in Khao San Road to Siem Reap. What a disaster. Crazy mini bus to the border and due to poor road conditions back then, NO bus! We were thrown into a pickup truck bed, on top of our packs. From what I've read, the best bet now is to negotiate a private car for the ride. Doesn't seem that expensive and it will allow you to stop wherever you want.

There is a really interesting way to get to LP. By boat. I don't know all the details, but it sounds fun. Just avoid the high speed power boats. I've heard they're horrible.

[Birdman]

The bus ride from Vang Viang to Luang Prabang is long and fantastic, if you like wonderful scenery. Did that last year with my Thai wife and from there by boats to North Eastern Laos and from there by bus to Hanoi, was the plan.

Almost no traffic on the way to Luang Prabang and the street brings you higher and higher until you are ~1500 m. The scenery is extremely beautiful and you can see far over the mountains of Laos, which are higher than the mountains in Thailand. Bus was half empty, you can seat wherever you want, I at the front row. Only drawback, it does not stop at the best places at the mountains to enjoy the views.

Coming down to Luang Prabang it was like coming to Shangri La. An extremely nice place. Stayed in the North between the 2 rivers. But it seemed too difficult and unsure to take boats further, 25 years ago I would not have given a thought about changing the plan, but........if you are 50, and the info was there are not enough passengers even for the main boat, you don't have a second thought to buy airline tickets LP-Hanoi-Vientiane for 550 US$/2 persons at the next agent and we flew by Laos Air to Hanoi. Excellent flight, btw.

[phuketrichard]

why not fly from Bangkok to Vientaine, ( or overnight train) bus to Vang Vieng for the night, next day bus to Luang Prabang

than fly to SR for 4-5 days than travel by bus to PP and on to Saigon or fly.( my recommendation if u have the $$)

May/june is low season;

I drove all over Laos in july 2012 and 2013 (also throughtout Cambodia) an its a great country , u can get river front rooms in small gh on the river in LP for under $25, ( we stayed at the Alounsavath gh)

IN Vang Vieng on the river, Domon GH ( 400 baht) Fantastic scenery and good food

Vientaine Souphaphone gh 180,000 kip

SR u need at least 2-3 days to really see the temples, Museum an travel out to Kampong Phluk ( village on the Tonle Sap river)

Safe travels

Asia trip 2013

Asia Trip 2012 with my daughter

Edited March 15, 2014 by phuketrichard

[phuketrichard]

PS the boat trip is from Chaing Khong (on the thai side) up above Chiang Rai and than down to Luang Prabang 2 days 1 night.

Have not done it as i am always up in Laos in my own car.

[dddave]

I did the bus from Vientiane to Luang Prabang this past November and i agree with Craig3365 that it is a visually spectacular journey. I would add to that, somewhat gut wrenching.

The trip is 10 hours on buses that are....well, not the newest and latest but be comforted that a mechanic comes along for the ride. We got to witness one at work as our return bus broke down a number of times and became a 14 hour trip.

The road is serpentine and populated by an endless parade of tandem trucks. Local drivers have no faith in western overtaking traditions...like avoiding passing on blind curves and upgrades. That I am here to type this is testament that it does somehow work.

I would do it again...my GF would not!

[PadHopper]

Thanks for all of your suggestions and information. It all sounds appealing to me, as I love staring at rugged natural scenery. I made the mistake of taking the overnight "jungle" train up the Malay peninsula five years ago. Saw nothing of course, though at one stop I heard the loudest chorus of frogs imaginable. I vowed to slow down and enjoy the scenery in the future.

I think my wife would be amenable to a compromise of enduring boats and buses and trains, as long as we flew back. I suspect she would love the journey once we were underway. We would probably devote about 10 days total from HCMC and back.

Now for some hard decisions. I keep finding places to go to at the expense of seeing Angkor Wat. Same thing with Penang . . . But Luang Prabang sounds like it's worth the effort. Maybe we can go to Siem Reap too, if we can manage another week.

Again, thanks for the excellent tips.

[PadHopper]

The road is serpentine and populated by an endless parade of tandem trucks. Local drivers have no faith in western overtaking traditions...like avoiding passing on blind curves and upgrades. That I am here to type this is testament that it does somehow work.

I would do it again...my GF would not!

DDDave, you posted this as I was typing my reply. Hmm, that makes going by bus seem a bit less appealing. Not a huge risk, but white-knuckling it might grow tiresome after a few hours. Wife would probably fall asleep after 30 minutes, so she'd be fine. Decisions, decisions.

[LuukKoeyKorat]

My recommendation to you would be to take the night train to Nong Khai, hop over to Vientiane and see the capital. Then fly to LP (35mins / 2000B one way)..stay a few nights in this chilled colonial town...take a 3 hour trip up to Nong Khiaw to see incredible limestone karsts, real Lao country life and nature on the Nam Ou river...return to LP for your onward flight to Siem Riep. Living in Luang Prabang for 3 years now - happy travels to you both!

[PadHopper]

LKK, that's a great itinerary! Ding! Ding! Ding! I think we have a winner!

Edited March 17, 2014 by PadHopper

[enyaw]

PS the boat trip is from Chaing Khong (on the thai side) up above Chiang Rai and than down to Luang Prabang 2 days 1 night.

Have not done it as i am always up in Laos in my own car.

Slow boat down the Mekong

I have done this trip and it is very pleasant can book a combo ticket in Chiang Mai or even Bangkok if you don't have the time. Mini bus pick up from Hotel in Chiang Mai to take you to Chiang Khong then over night at the border (all included in the ticket) then in the morning ferry to Huay Xai to get visa stamped (all arrangements regards visa's are all sorted at overnight stay in Chiang Khong I need to add) then another short minibus ride to where the boats are at bay then board.

It's a beautiful serene journey down to Luang Prabang and it will include a overnight stop in Pakbeng, accommodation is included and I am pretty sure the meal was included aswell. I could be wrong. It was great here can chat and get to know your fellow travellers over a meal and a few beers then off again in the morning, arrive Luang Prabang late afternoon which is a wonderful place to visit, one of my favourites.

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