What do you guys do when your rear rotor gets glazed to remove the glaze. In the U.S. I take the rotor to a machine shop that resurfaces flywheels & have them do a finish cut to brake the glaze off. The Kawi 650 ER6n has 11500 kilos on it & the rear disc is near perfect. No groves just a lot of shine to the disc. I tried 80 grit paper with the bike on a jack with the rear wheel spinning & it was not aggressive enough to remove enough metal. Short of ruffing it up with a angle grinder how do you guys remedy the situation in LOS. I am going to have Kawi look at it at 12,000 kilo's for servicing, but I can't recall seeing any equipment there to resurface the disc.I could just replace it but the rotor really is in great shape.

Thanks for any ideas on how you guys either professionally got it done .or MacGuivered it yourself to break the glaze off.

I know a good shop even with drilled rotors can turn the rotor but it requires slow cutting & a very sharp cutter. Both of which are extremely hard to come by in Thailand.Some shops are afraid of drilled rotors even in the U.S. I fear here they will just say no can do which is incorrect.

I live in Pattaya area. Does anyone know of a competent shop up this way?

Sorry no edit feature to add this in.

i never touch my disc rotors but i have seen them grinding off the surface of car discs with precision machinery grinding the disc by spirals slowly.

Maybe you can check a car tire shop.

i never touch my disc rotors but i have seen them grinding off the surface of car discs with precision machinery grinding the disc by spirals slowly.

Maybe you can check a car tire shop.

Had a truck done at local 'Cockpit' and it seemed to have been done well. Took about and hour per corner but no idea if they do bikes??

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Car rotors are usually cast iron. Bike rotors, on modern bikes, are usually stainless steel which is why your 80 grit sandpaper didn't do much as SS is harder.

Take the rotors of and get them sand or bead blasted would be my method. If I thought the bike wasn't stopping as well as it used to?

be careful with the sandblasting because if they concentrate took much on one spot the heat created could warp the disc.

Car rotors are usually cast iron. Bike rotors, on modern bikes, are usually stainless steel which is why your 80 grit sandpaper didn't do much as SS is harder.

Take the rotors of and get them sand or bead blasted would be my method. If I thought the bike wasn't stopping as well as it used to?

I would agree that the bead blaster would be excellent to break off the glaze. Not sure about sandblasting. Might be a little to abrasive in regards to pitting the rotor. I used to use a beadblaster when I worked in a BMW Porsche-Volkswagen shop & the bead blaster was a choice of champions. Now if I could find a shop with a bead blaster in Pattaya!

I don't think finding a place on the eastern seaboard will be a problem. Rayong, Maptaphut, etc..

Finding a place small enough to do two brake rotors, maybe?

I would try drive couple Kms with partial braking.. see what happens.

The replace pads to some metallic compound perhaps.

Failing that, leave it as it is.

Or a couple or few emergency stops might do the trick? Take the bike to BIRA on a Monday and do a few laps?

You have to be careful using silica based sand although I can't remember why OK I found it..

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Just make sure that you use a GARNETT sandpaper 120 - 400 grit is fine, or if your using a strip disc make sure that it DOES NOT contain silica, if you end up with silica embedded in the rotor surface it will wear out both the disc and pads a lot quicker, and possibly cause a rotor to warp and more than likely cause a slight vibration from uneven build up of pad material on the disc.

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I used a grinder as it only needs the glaze knocked off with wood sandpaper.'.