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Nan in Thai


pbateson

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I'm looking forward to taking a motorcycle ride to Nan next month. The roads to get there are just what an old biker would dream of! We were there a few months ago and enjoyed the area. It's not a hot-bed of night clubs and discos, but if you enjoy mountain scenery, perfect motorcycle roads, and quiet evenings, it's great. There are plenty of hotels, resorts, and guest houses to suit 'almost' anyone, and a nice place for a relaxing vacation!

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The 19th century murals in the viharn of Wat Phumin are worth seeing. They were the subject of a very interesting study by the distinguished historian David Wyatt... Temple Murals as an Historical Source. The Case of Wat Phumin, Nan. [Chulalongkorn University Press 1993].

These fresco secco paintings depict the usual Jataka Tales seen in most wats, but here farangs are included. French army troops and gunboats; civilian men. women, and children; and a few oddly dressed figures who have been tentatively identified as clerics.

The various theories surrounding these paintings are studied and explained in detail by Professor Wyatt.

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I agree about Wat Phumin. Also the museum, near this temple, is worth a visit. It is located in the former palace of the Lords of Nan, who ruled longer than the CM dynasty and much longer than Bangkok.

Excuse me for bluntly contradicting you, but it should be pointed out that the last ruler of Chiang Mai, Chao Kaew Nawarat died in 1939, and was predeceased by the last ruler of Nan, Chao Mahaprom Surathada who died in 1931. As for the Chakri Dynasty in Bangkok, it continues to this day in the person of HM King Bhumibol Adulyadej.

A comprehensive history of Nan has yet to be written; but what might be of interest to you is The Nan Chronicle. [David Wyatt trans. Cornell. 1994]. Translated from a palm-leaf manuscript written in 1894, it draws on sources dating from the founding of the city in 1368.

Nan played an important part in Lanna T'ai history during the reign of King Tilokarat of Chiang Mai in the 15th century. In 1480, Nan along with the neighbouring kingdom of Lan Chang and its capital, Luang Prabang were seized by the Dai Viet Empire based in Hanoi. The Lao king and his two sons lost their lives in the fighting. Tilokarat helped the youngest son Phaya Saikhao to safety. The Lanna T'ai troops counterattacked, retaking Nan then launched an assault on Luang Prabang forcing the Dai Viet to withdraw.

The French occupation of the Lan Chang kingdom in 1893 ended the importance of Nan. The Chao Luang overnight lost half or more of his territory. and the wealth and power that went with it. Nan was no longer on the trade routes heading east. It became a backwater on the road to nowhere.

So it remained throughout the 20th century. The positive aspect is that so far Nan has escaped the disaster of mass-tourism.

Let's hope that continues.

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Thanks for the interesting comment, CMHomeboy. I am aware of Wyatt's book. This is not the best forum to debate the history of Nan! However I was not suggesting that the last Lord of Nan died after the last of CM. I was suggesting that the Nan dynasty was longer because it started as a ruling family earlier. However, it is difficult to date such things, so I'm happy to amend my comment as saying they ruled for many centuries. The last Lord of Nan was, as I recall, the 64th (although not all of the same dynasty). This gives an idea of how long the history was.

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