Only do this if you can think of it as a hobby, nothing something rational to do.

Many problems are coming to you. Why not just buy a different car?

Only do this if you can think of it as a hobby, nothing something rational to do.

Many problems are coming to you. Why not just buy a different car?

The only problem is sourcing the OEM parts (for a decent price). once fitted there will never be a problem as it will be just the same as if Toyota themselves assembled the vehicle.

Infact I could ask the guy who did the 1uz conversion that I mentioned earlier, it is possible the workshop that did his conversion has the complete auto box set-up still sitting there then all else that would need to be sourced would be the auto shifter/cable/speedo cable/kick down cable/gearbox mount/tailshaft etc etc etc.... hell you could just remove the clutch pedal and have the smaller manual brake pedal if one did not want to source the auto brake pedal.

Seriously swapping from manual to auto is not some sort of voodoo rocket science.

Thanks alot folks for the info ,i think sell the car and buy new 2.5 hilux auto and ride another yearssss withhouth problems ,because ,like some folks tells ,better buy new ,and have no problems ,also thanks again for the good info ,my thinking was for abouth -+ 100000thb for the parts and work and a little birt reserve, buth now i gonna buy new ,because alot of you now more than me alone .

best regards to all of you

Martin

I was in the motor trade in Australia for 50 years, forget it buy a auto don't try and change a manual to auto, it will be expensive and drive you crazy.

As the Auto wasn't available in any diesel Hilux except the 3.0 Double Cab 4 x 4 until about 2011 when the Prerunner 3.0 Double Cab was offered as Auto.

Only since 2012 an Auto option has been offered in the Spacecab versions.

For these reasons, this has been a common swap in Thailand for years, and a very successful one at that.

As these Vigo's have been around since 2004, you can be very sure there are plenty of shops that know these pick ups inside out.

They seem to crash them a lot too, based on the videos around, so should be plenty of spares.

Why would you want to change to an automatic gear box?! Your present miles per gallon will disappear, your engine will have to be re-tuned to accept the new gear arrangement, the car's CPU would have to be tweeted and the cost would be, in my opinion not worth it (if not prohibitive). Better to just go out and by a new car/truck. It will be easier in both the short and long run and will not drive you nuts when the transfer you are thinking about fails to engage... not to mention the problems that WILL surface due to poor installation issues.

So in short... do not do it! Just buy new; Ford is having a sale right now!

Why would he want a Ford..?.......

Personally I would get a Toyota.... but as I said... Ford is having an "End of Year Sale".

Why would you want to change to an automatic gear box?! Your present miles per gallon will disappear, your engine will have to be re-tuned to accept the new gear arrangement, the car's CPU would have to be tweeted and the cost would be, in my opinion not worth it (if not prohibitive). Better to just go out and by a new car/truck. It will be easier in both the short and long run and will not drive you nuts when the transfer you are thinking about fails to engage... not to mention the problems that WILL surface due to poor installation issues.

So in short... do not do it! Just buy new; Ford is having a sale right now!

Why would he want a Ford..?.......

Why not? I have a 2001 Ford Ranger 4x4 2.5 turbo diesel with over 310,xxx on the clock and over the years I have had to change the front suspension because of a big hole in the road, the radiator, batteries and tyres.

It is showing its age but it just keeps on going.

I am fairly happy with it and still get about 11 km/ltr with it. If I had the money lying around I would buy another.

I'm a little surprised to hear that changing from manual to auto would be 'easy' back in the 80's when i was in hi-school in texas, alot of the kids would by these used 70's TA's, formula's, and Camero's , but most of them were 3speed auto's.. the kids would work on the cras, changing intake manifolds, adding dual exhaust .. a few little things to give them some more kik, but a manual transmission was the only way to give them a serious qtr mile time.. but none of them ever did it because they said it was too hard.. for 1 thing an automatic transmission and a manual transmission are 2 different sizes, the new transmission wont just 'fit' into place, there's going to need some rigging and modifying to do it.. yea?

I'm a little surprised to hear that changing from manual to auto would be 'easy' back in the 80's when i was in hi-school in texas, alot of the kids would by these used 70's TA's, formula's, and Camero's , but most of them were 3speed auto's.. the kids would work on the cras, changing intake manifolds, adding dual exhaust .. a few little things to give them some more kik, but a manual transmission was the only way to give them a serious qtr mile time.. but none of them ever did it because they said it was too hard..

Easy in those days.......... . My Pontiac was manual, but the trans could not take biggish increases in HP, I have the T-shirt. I went the other way and went auto after many heartaches, noooooo problems after the auto swap.......

I'm a little surprised to hear that changing from manual to auto would be 'easy' back in the 80's when i was in hi-school in texas, alot of the kids would by these used 70's TA's, formula's, and Camero's , but most of them were 3speed auto's.. the kids would work on the cras, changing intake manifolds, adding dual exhaust .. a few little things to give them some more kik, but a manual transmission was the only way to give them a serious qtr mile time.. but none of them ever did it because they said it was too hard.. for 1 thing an automatic transmission and a manual transmission are 2 different sizes, the new transmission wont just 'fit' into place, there's going to need some rigging and modifying to do it.. yea?

Years ago manufacturers used to have 2 different floor pans depending on gearbox (manual or auto) being fitted but from my experience with Australian and UK vehicles is those with the auto tranny had the bigger tunnel so swapping to a manual was not an issue with floorpan clearance..... swapping the other though (manual to auto) one would "massage" the trans tunnel with an FBH (Fookin Big Hammer).

These days there is no difference in floorpans.

I'm a little surprised to hear that changing from manual to auto would be 'easy' back in the 80's when i was in hi-school in texas, alot of the kids would by these used 70's TA's, formula's, and Camero's , but most of them were 3speed auto's.. the kids would work on the cras, changing intake manifolds, adding dual exhaust .. a few little things to give them some more kik, but a manual transmission was the only way to give them a serious qtr mile time.. but none of them ever did it because they said it was too hard.. for 1 thing an automatic transmission and a manual transmission are 2 different sizes, the new transmission wont just 'fit' into place, there's going to need some rigging and modifying to do it.. yea?

Years ago manufacturers used to have 2 different floor pans depending on gearbox (manual or auto) being fitted but from my experience with Australian and UK vehicles is those with the auto tranny had the bigger tunnel so swapping to a manual was not an issue with floorpan clearance..... swapping the other though (manual to auto) one would "massage" the trans tunnel with an FBH (Fookin Big Hammer).

These days there is no difference in floorpans.

Been there done that. It was a pain in the arse at times.

As a mechanic for 37 years I would advise you to forget this idea. Sell your Toyota and buy an automatic version, it will probably work out cheaper and you will have less problems.

I was a mechanic years ago, I agree with hocuspocusy it would probably lower the value of your car by 50% as it would make such a mess of the vehicle change flywheel is involved maybe also the diff tail shaft give me about $10,000 and I still wouldn't take the job

Auto don't have a flywheel..................

Pretty sure it's a matter of semantics on technical terminology, we knew what he meant correct?

Fluid Flywheel.

As a mechanic for 37 years I would advise you to forget this idea. Sell your Toyota and buy an automatic version, it will probably work out cheaper and you will have less problems.

I was a mechanic years ago, I agree with hocuspocusy it would probably lower the value of your car by 50% as it would make such a mess of the vehicle change flywheel is involved maybe also the diff tail shaft give me about $10,000 and I still wouldn't take the job

Auto don't have a flywheel..................

Pretty sure it's a matter of semantics on technical terminology, we knew what he meant correct?

Just pointing out to the readers that don't know....

Manual trans has a (heavy) flywheel that the clutch assembly bolts too and an auto has a (light) flex plate that the torque converter bolts on.

On performance rides the manual assembly usually gets heavier and autos get lighter.

Why, a manual needs the biggest clutch possible to increase plate contact area,(I had a twin plate assembly once) an auto will need a smaller diameter torque converter to increase "stall" rpm, I had a 10 inch converter to raise launch rpm to 3600 rpm, the stock was 12 or 13 inch.

I'm a little surprised to hear that changing from manual to auto would be 'easy' back in the 80's when i was in hi-school in texas, alot of the kids would by these used 70's TA's, formula's, and Camero's , but most of them were 3speed auto's.. the kids would work on the cras, changing intake manifolds, adding dual exhaust .. a few little things to give them some more kik, but a manual transmission was the only way to give them a serious qtr mile time.. but none of them ever did it because they said it was too hard.. for 1 thing an automatic transmission and a manual transmission are 2 different sizes, the new transmission wont just 'fit' into place, there's going to need some rigging and modifying to do it.. yea?

Years ago manufacturers used to have 2 different floor pans depending on gearbox (manual or auto) being fitted but from my experience with Australian and UK vehicles is those with the auto tranny had the bigger tunnel so swapping to a manual was not an issue with floorpan clearance..... swapping the other though (manual to auto) one would "massage" the trans tunnel with an FBH (Fookin Big Hammer).

These days there is no difference in floorpans.

FBH also known as a tapometer

]

I was a mechanic years ago, I agree with hocuspocusy it would probably lower the value of your car by 50% as it would make such a mess of the vehicle change flywheel is involved maybe also the diff tail shaft give me about $10,000 and I still wouldn't take the job

Auto don't have a flywheel..................

Pretty sure it's a matter of semantics on technical terminology, we knew what he meant correct?

Just pointing out to the readers that don't know....

Manual trans has a (heavy) flywheel that the clutch assembly bolts too and an auto has a (light) flex plate that the torque converter bolts on.

On performance rides the manual assembly usually gets heavier and autos get lighter.

Why, a manual needs the biggest clutch possible to increase plate contact area,(I had a twin plate assembly once) an auto will need a smaller diameter torque converter to increase "stall" rpm, I had a 10 inch converter to raise launch rpm to 3600 rpm, the stock was 12 or 13 inch.

Yeah these days modern clutch technology has reduced the size of them due to advancements in the friction materials.

Perhaps yes, everything moves on, but for high HP jobbies greater clamping pressure is required also. Hence bigger is better. My ride would burn any make of plate in a 1000 miles if I was stomping on it, clutch slip. Tried a sintered bronze paddle plate, not street-able, dumped it. My dual plate set up made by McLeod was a vast improvement but destroyed the gearbox. .

F1 clutch up to 800bhp 1.3 kgs 97mm dia

F1 clutch up to 800bhp 1.3 kgs 97mm dia

And probably priced on the wrong side of $10k!

F1 clutch up to 800bhp 1.3 kgs 97mm dia

690 kgs too

A little different from the sledge T/A had

Plenty of grip electronically controlled too

Quite different.

Cheap too........

Correct $50k up

Perhaps yes, everything moves on, but for high HP jobbies greater clamping pressure is required also. Hence bigger is better. My ride would burn any make of plate in a 1000 miles if I was stomping on it, clutch slip. Tried a sintered bronze paddle plate, not street-able, dumped it. My dual plate set up made by McLeod was a vast improvement but destroyed the gearbox. .

Nah.

I have mates that have big HP (800hp Supra's/1000HP Falcons) daily drivers and the clutches feel like stock ones to use.

I think sintered bronze plates stopped being used about 20 years ago.

Here's a Monster Clutch for the LSX, it will hold 1000hp.

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=235_79_76&products_id=4949&osCsid=301d1aa40c05f99c4bf2d6a6b11dd935

Perhaps yes, everything moves on, but for high HP jobbies greater clamping pressure is required also. Hence bigger is better. My ride would burn any make of plate in a 1000 miles if I was stomping on it, clutch slip. Tried a sintered bronze paddle plate, not street-able, dumped it. My dual plate set up made by McLeod was a vast improvement but destroyed the gearbox. .

Nah.

I have mates that have big HP (800hp Supra's/1000HP Falcons) daily drivers and the clutches feel like stock ones to use.

I think sintered bronze plates stopped being used about 20 years ago.

Here's a Monster Clutch for the LSX, it will hold 1000hp.

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=235_79_76&products_id=4949&osCsid=301d1aa40c05f99c4bf2d6a6b11dd935

What ARE you on about................... .............. ...................

Clutch Clark should be able to explain.

Perhaps yes, everything moves on, but for high HP jobbies greater clamping pressure is required also. Hence bigger is better. My ride would burn any make of plate in a 1000 miles if I was stomping on it, clutch slip. Tried a sintered bronze paddle plate, not street-able, dumped it. My dual plate set up made by McLeod was a vast improvement but destroyed the gearbox. .

Nah.

I have mates that have big HP (800hp Supra's/1000HP Falcons) daily drivers and the clutches feel like stock ones to use.

I think sintered bronze plates stopped being used about 20 years ago.

Here's a Monster Clutch for the LSX, it will hold 1000hp.

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=235_79_76&products_id=4949&osCsid=301d1aa40c05f99c4bf2d6a6b11dd935

What ARE you on about................... .............. ...................

what Iam saying is that bigger might have been better back 30 years ago but these days good decent clutches are actually fairly small.

Where did high performance clutches come into this post ?

Wasn't the OP looking to change to an auto box hence no clutch ?

Personally I would sell the manual and buy an auto. Less hassle in the end

Perhaps yes, everything moves on, but for high HP jobbies greater clamping pressure is required also. Hence bigger is better. My ride would burn any make of plate in a 1000 miles if I was stomping on it, clutch slip. Tried a sintered bronze paddle plate, not street-able, dumped it. My dual plate set up made by McLeod was a vast improvement but destroyed the gearbox. .

Nah.

I have mates that have big HP (800hp Supra's/1000HP Falcons) daily drivers and the clutches feel like stock ones to use.

I think sintered bronze plates stopped being used about 20 years ago.

Here's a Monster Clutch for the LSX, it will hold 1000hp.

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=235_79_76&products_id=4949&osCsid=301d1aa40c05f99c4bf2d6a6b11dd935

What ARE you on about................... .............. ...................

what Iam saying is that bigger might have been better back 30 years ago but these days good decent clutches are actually fairly small.

Thats a multi plate clutch assembly, lots more overall contact area over a single plate. Very expensive...

Where did ones opinion of Auto V Manual feature in the O.P. either. But You chipped in , so no different from the Clutch Chaps.

Where did high performance clutches come into this post ?

Wasn't the OP looking to change to an auto box hence no clutch ?

Personally I would sell the manual and buy an auto. Less hassle in the end

Trannyman brought up the high performance clutch he used 30 years ago saying they are heavy.

Where did high performance clutches come into this post ?

Wasn't the OP looking to change to an auto box hence no clutch ?

Personally I would sell the manual and buy an auto. Less hassle in the end

Trannyman brought up the high performance clutch he used 30 years ago saying they are heavy.

And still used to this day. The folk that make that multi plate in your photo, Monster Clutch Co, still make conventional but high performance single plate stuff.

Why would you want to change to an automatic gear box?! Your present miles per gallon will disappear, your engine will have to be re-tuned to accept the new gear arrangement, the car's CPU would have to be tweeted and the cost would be, in my opinion not worth it (if not prohibitive). Better to just go out and by a new car/truck. It will be easier in both the short and long run and will not drive you nuts when the transfer you are thinking about fails to engage... not to mention the problems that WILL surface due to poor installation issues.

So in short... do not do it! Just buy new; Ford is having a sale right now!

Why would he want a Ford..?.......

We have an old saying in good old Germany about Ford.

Drive away in a Ford for a vacation and come back by train. Trans is right.