glueing bicycle shoes

[h90]

I got my old bicycle shoes from Europe here to Thailand and use them on the trainer with the old pedals.

They are old.....15 years? but still good, beside that the sole (bottom) is getting off, it is glued to the rest of the shoe and the glue aged.

I sent it to a shoe repair shop and he told "cannot". He had exactly the same case before and his glue didn't last and the customer claimed refund.

I have a 2 component epoxy glue here (from UHU), that is strong but I worry that the shoe/sole is bending a bit every time and the glue is hard and stiff, so it will brake. I guess it needs more an elastic glue.

Anyone ever did something like that?

[impulse]

I use contact cement. You put a thin layer on both pieces, let them dry to the touch, then press the 2 pieces together. If all the glue is absorbed into the material, I use 2-3 coats, drying between coats. The process is critical to success. If you just slather some like regular glue and put the pieces together wet, it doesn't work. The glue on each piece has to be dry to the touch before putting the pieces together, and the more pressure, the better. Edit: And all the normal caveats about both pieces being clean and grease free and dry before you start...

It's what they use to make the shoes in the factory. It's also the same stuff they use to cement carpet to floors.

Sometimes it gets me a whole new life out of the shoes, sometimes it only lasts a few weeks or months. Why the difference, I have no clue. But I can understand why a shoe repair guy would be reluctant to risk his reputation (and $$$) on such a repair.

Epoxy is almost guaranteed to fail because it won't bend like a shoe does.

[h90]

I use contact cement. You put a thin layer on both pieces, let them dry to the touch, then press the 2 pieces together. If all the glue is absorbed into the material, I use 2-3 coats, drying between coats. The process is critical to success. If you just slather some like regular glue and put the pieces together wet, it doesn't work. The glue on each piece has to be dry to the touch before putting the pieces together, and the more pressure, the better. Edit: And all the normal caveats about both pieces being clean and grease free and dry before you start...

It's what they use to make the shoes in the factory. It's also the same stuff they use to cement carpet to floors.

Sometimes it gets me a whole new life out of the shoes, sometimes it only lasts a few weeks or months. Why the difference, I have no clue. But I can understand why a shoe repair guy would be reluctant to risk his reputation (and $$$) on such a repair.

Epoxy is almost guaranteed to fail because it won't bend like a shoe does.

Thanks....

"contact cement": Home Pro? Any brands that are better/worse?

Did I understand right:

thin layer on both pieces

let them dry to the touch

if there is no glue there anymore, than just put again a thin layer on it and let dry again?

The more pressure the better? Any good practical idea for that? A weight on top of the shoe won't press on the critical area. It would need something that is shaped like a foot.

Or shall I just go to a different shop?

[moonoi]

You probably need to fashion a clamp out of some bits of wood and some C clamps to help with positioning the load on the contact points.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[impulse]

To be honest, the cheap, horrible smelling (and VERY flammable) contact cements in Asia work better for me than the nice, environmentally sound (and non flammable) modern contact cements back home. If it doesn't smell like a few sniffs would send you to lala land, it's the modern stuff- stay away...

I get mine at some stores on Rama 4 in Khlong Toey that sell shoe making stuff, but I've also used carpet glue in China and the USA with good results. It's great for gluing anything that needs to stay very flexible- shoes, luggage, etc. Just look for "contact cement" and "extremely flammable" on the label. Of course, all the caveats about fire safety and ventilation for your lungs and brain apply...

You seem to have the process down. I have never used clamps, just manual pressure the best I can with my hands. Since you will have already let the glue dry before pressing the parts together, I don't think any extended clamping is necessary. But don't stress the shoes until the glue stops stinking altogether.

I'm pretty sure there's a hundred Youtube videos to go into detail, though I've never looked for one myself.

[MESmith]

Duct tape.

[rebo]

PATTEX contact adhesive, available in every DIY shop. Make sure you follow impulse's advices, they are essential. In addition roughen both contact surfaces thoroughly by heavy grit sand paper before cleaning them.

[h90]

Duct tape.

That is Plan B

[h90]

I sent someone to the shop.....my thought is if they don't do good I can still do it myself.

What I saw they didn't remove the two parts, just put in some glue in the gap. You can lift up the upper part a 1-1.5 mm and the glue will stretch rubber like.....

That won't last --> have to do it myself