How to deliver hot water to outlets?

[eyecatcher]

Did copper pipe disappear or did it never exist here?

whats the best pipe type to use here to deliver hot water to sink/basin/shower. some kind of polyprop or steel fittings.

Obviously blue grade 8.5 isnt going to last ten minutes.

what do you have in your house?

[lopburi3]

There was never any need for copper (and lead issues) here as almost everyone uses point of use heaters if they use hot water. Hotels used old galvanized for everything most times I believe - but they had duty free import of many things so probably also imported copper. As said above believe the special hot water plastic is available (but seldom needed).

[TheCruncher]

Plenty of copper pipe available at the aircon supply shops.

[lopburi3]

Plenty of copper pipe available at the aircon supply shops.

Yes and have used to run gas lines in the past - not sure would be much use at normal low water pressure in the size normally available - or how you would connect to taps.

[Pdaz]

If you use copper in the wall make sure it is lagged with something like cloth or foam as bare copper pipe will be affected by the cement. A better bet as already suggested is the green PPR plastic pipe. It's heat welded together and doesn't leak. The hot water type usually has a thin red stripe on the outside. Decent builder will have the heating jig or u can buy one for about 1200 baht. Even heat at point units may need to use plumbing if the OP doesn't want to have the unit in the shower with him. Much better IMHO to mount the heater unit in a cupboard or remotely and then have plumbing bring the hot water to the shower mixer through the wall. Better still dump the heaters and install a solar unit.

[TheCruncher]

Plenty of copper pipe available at the aircon supply shops.

Yes and have used to run gas lines in the past - not sure would be much use at normal low water pressure in the size normally available - or how you would connect to taps.

All my hot water piping was done in copper pipe, using smaller diameter than the blue pipe, and connecting to the water taps the same way you would connect any other pipe.

Copper pipe is also available in different wall thickness.

[IMHO]

We have the Pimaflex Multipipe in two houses, both with solar hot water systems that get super hot, and it performs flawlessly:

http://www.pimatec.com/index.php/en/products/pimaflex-multipipe

Most Thai Watsadu stores keep it in stock, and the prices are very reasonable.

Compared to PPR, the pipe itself is one long continuous roll (so no joins needed on long runs) and it's bendable, so far less need for elbows too.

Edited October 25, 2015 by IMHO

[stoneyboy]

There was never any need for copper (and lead issues) here as almost everyone uses point of use heaters if they use hot water. Hotels used old galvanized for everything most times I believe - but they had duty free import of many things so probably also imported copper. As said above believe the special hot water plastic is available (but seldom needed).

Yes this removes the need to run pipe work throughout the house,but you still need obviously the electric feed and a proper earthing system.

This picture below is from my kitchen,very easy set up and very reliable for the last 4 years.

[villagefarang]

We used copper in a couple of our bathrooms and have had no problems. Had to get a separate guy in to do that work. The heater is a multipoint unit which connects to two showers, two sinks and one large bathtub.

[GavinK]

We have the Pimaflex Multipipe in two houses, both with solar hot water systems that get super hot, and it performs flawlessly:

http://www.pimatec.com/index.php/en/products/pimaflex-multipipe

Most Thai Watsadu stores keep it in stock, and the prices are very reasonable.

Compared to PPR, the pipe itself is one long continuous roll (so no joins needed on long runs) and it's bendable, so far less need for elbows too.

+1 although the pipe I got was orange. Easy to clean-cut with the right tool and join. I used metal connectors which are secured with a couple of spanners, but they don't seem to be re-usable so if you screw-up a connection then you have to start again with a new one.

Edited October 25, 2015 by GavinK

[eyecatcher]

Thanks for the replies guys:

Now I know they supply polypipe thats the way I will go. I set up a central heating system a few years ago in polypipe. Did the house of 6 rads in a weekend with no previous experience and 10 yrs later still never had a leak. All the fittings were push fit then, you didn't want to be getting your finger inside one of those or you wouldn't see it again.

What I really wanted is a Stiebel multipoint that will supply a shower head and the bathroom basin and although stretching it a bit i thought maybe the kitchen sink also. a couple of downsides to the kitchen sink; firstly hot water needs to travel about 5/6 m which is a bit of a run off and secondly not sure the water is hot enough for washing up purposes (must ask the missus!)

I do like the under the sink small water heater idea if i can get power to it.

so the polypipe (do the Americans call is plex? and has a coupling ring?) has what type of fittings; push fit, heat welded or clicklok someone mentioned? and they can be compatible to the steel/cast iron shower head brackets and valves.

[RichCor]

Something to think about ...

There are heated arguments (pun intended) for and against this

If you're planning on a long run with poly (PEX in the US), some people install a recirculating or diversion system.

Rather than waste and wait for the less-than-hot water in the hot line to be purged:

OPTION

A. A recirc system would use a second line to act as a return to a heat source (recirc occurring either by a small electric pump or gravity fed and rely on thermosiphoning) to keep the water in the (insulated) delivery line always heated.

B. An automatic valve allows the less-than-hot water to be purged/diverted back into the cold water line until the heated water is delivered.

Here's a poorly designed web page showing the different systems:

... the only difference between this and that seems to be the check valve placement.

...and the too cheep to install an actual dedicated recirc return so I'll just dump/purge the not-warm-enough water back into the cold water line using the old crossover valve trick.

[eyecatcher]

Sort of between a rock and a hard place now.

I went to look at the pimaflex and the green pipe.

The pimaflex is pretty much the same as the flexi pipe i have used but a helluva lot more expensive.

Its a plastic coated aluminium circa 95bt per m and the fittings a similar price.

I only need say 12m to do so it may cost 2500bt.

The green pn20 high temp pipe costs about 40bt/m and the fittings from 5 to 20bt. So probably less than 800bt

But of course you have to have the big boys sealing tool and this costs 3000bt.

Can we deliver water in a grade 13 blue or is it the hot water and solvent that dont get on too well?

[eyecatcher]

Normal pvc (the blue pipe) can only handle a max temp of +/-60c but not for longer periods of time

I certainly dont intend having a shower with 60 deg cent water...........the water in a shower unit isnt going to be able to heat up to 35 degrees is it? even with a 6kw heater. appreciate good mixer taps regulate the temp but it has to get there in the first place.

you said you used the ppr clicklok. the green pipe I have seen in a few places dont offer the clicklock fittings, just the heatgun method otherwise i would buy that like a shot....any suppliers (for get global, homepro,thai watsa, home solutions...they dont sell)

[TheCruncher]

Normal pvc (the blue pipe) can only handle a max temp of +/-60c but not for longer periods of time

I certainly dont intend having a shower with 60 deg cent water...........the water in a shower unit isnt going to be able to heat up to 35 degrees is it? even with a 6kw heater. appreciate good mixer taps regulate the temp but it has to get there in the first place.

you said you used the ppr clicklok. the green pipe I have seen in a few places dont offer the clicklock fittings, just the heatgun method otherwise i would buy that like a shot....any suppliers (for get global, homepro,thai watsa, home solutions...they dont sell)

The water at the outlet of your 6Kw waterheater is hotter than 60 degrees.

I have my hot water system with copper pipe, but if I had to redo it today I would go with the pimaflex. The less connections you have the better, because sooner or later they will leak, and it will always be at a difficult to reach location.

That's Murphy's law i think

Edited October 29, 2015 by TheCruncher

[eyecatcher]

Thanks for the responses guys:

Yes i do like the Pimaflex; what i dont like is seeing a product much less expensive so I have a natural tendency to try and make the cheaper product work.

its a once only installation so 3k on the heat gun cannot be justified.

Most first fix plumbing can be surface fixed in a kitchen as its normally hidden by kitchen units but a bathroom is not so easy. can anyone see any reason not to lay the horizontal pipe within the screeded/tiled floor and just chase out for the verticals from the heater or to the shower.

[BaldPlumber]

If using copper it must be protected. In the UK we would use oil impregnated tape. Mind you, it depends on how long you want it to last.

[IMHO]

Normal pvc (the blue pipe) can only handle a max temp of +/-60c but not for longer periods of time

I certainly dont intend having a shower with 60 deg cent water...........the water in a shower unit isnt going to be able to heat up to 35 degrees is it? even with a 6kw heater. appreciate good mixer taps regulate the temp but it has to get there in the first place.

you said you used the ppr clicklok. the green pipe I have seen in a few places dont offer the clicklock fittings, just the heatgun method otherwise i would buy that like a shot....any suppliers (for get global, homepro,thai watsa, home solutions...they dont sell)

Seriously, you couldn't expect the solvent for blue PVC pipes to hang on with hot water, let alone the pipe itself. You could try using high pressure solvent, but that's so expensive you may as well just use the Pimaflex. Speaking of which, don't forget it's a continuous roll that you can bend and form - so really only needs fittings at each end - none in the middle - which brings it's overall cost down.

Those suggesting copper, are suggesting you spend about 10-15x more than the Pimaflex

Edited October 30, 2015 by IMHO