Capture One Pro 9 launched

[fimgirl]

If you're really serious about your final RAW image output this is THE software. I've been using it since V2 and having compared it against all of the alternatives I have no hesitation in putting it streets ahead. It's somewhat daunting at first glance but very worth while persevering with.

Link to new features http://www.getdpi.com/forum/image-processing/56967-capture-one-pro-9-launched.html

[Dancealot]

Thanks for the tip, fimgirl. Localised curving.^^ I'm very curious. Just checked it fully supports medium range cams like my sony's as well . Dowloading now.

[Fiddlesticks]

Hey fimgirl,

My workflow nowadays has me doing minor adjustments to my imported RAW images and doing the lions share of adjustments in PS. For example, in LR I will do basic WB adjustments, then do exposure, highlight/shadow recovery (to get a good initial histogram), perspective adjustments, noise correction, lens correction and import sharpening in LR. From there, all other adjustments will be made in PS.

Assuming this workflow (and that shooting tethered is not important to me), what advantages will I see by going to C1? I'm not being negative, I truly would like your educated opinion on this since I want to be able to produce the best output from my PP workflow.

Thanks for your post and your input!

[fimgirl]

We're talking RAW here. I have no experience of OOC jpegs.

The algorithms utilised by Phase in Capture One are radically different than ACR (Lightroom/Photoshop) producing a much crisper and detailed image. This aspect in itself keeps me with C1.

LCC, (local contrast control global), is not colour destructive. Localised and global colour controls are superior and fair more extensive. Keystone correction, either in or outside of the frame is unusual and AFAIK only available in Capture One. Localised curve application is very useful. And the list goes on. In short, and as previously stated, I've tried LR, Iridient, RAW Developer, SilkyPix etc and I just cannot get the Capture One detail and clarity from them. But I also use PS for all my "moody and macabre" ventures (that's another story). On a conventional file I would say, and using your example, that I do 90% of my work in C1.

However, it must be understood that C1 is not a DAM portal in its own right. I use LR for library management.

Download the 30 day trial and see what you think.

[Dancealot]

Wow, it's amazing. I've installed the Capture one Sony and have been testing the basic features. I was already working on being less dependant on LR by implementing Nik and Topaz but Capture One gives me full independence. So far I've only been playing with the contrast curves and farmiliarising myself with the software. The first thing I'm really happy about is that global contrast adjusment does not deteriorate the colours at all(like fimgirl says). It gives me more freedom and space to work with. Processing contrast is one of the most important things in my workflow and amongst other features LR clearly fails on that.

Capture One works a lot faster and smoother(while sliding) then LR on my PC. If I want to do some additional processing I can simpy export the file as a processed RAW(original or final JPG variant) instead of a HUGE TIFF and simply reload it in another program.

[edit] Thanks Fimgirl. It's a breath of fresh air and I have a lot to learn now I'm revising and revitalising my old(dated) workflow

Edited December 2, 2015 by Dancealot

[fimgirl]

@Dal. In fairness PS also has the non destructive facility that appeals to you. Convert your RGB file to Lab mode (Lightness a and the curves ONLY affect Luminosity. No affect on colour. Convert back to RGB when satisfied.

Take a look at LCC also. Local Contrast Control.

Glad you're happy.

[Fiddlesticks]

@Dal. In fairness PS also has the non destructive facility that appeals to you. Convert your RGB file to Lab mode (Lightness a and the curves ONLY affect Luminosity. No affect on colour. Convert back to RGB when satisfied.

Take a look at LCC also. Local Contrast Control.

Glad you're happy.

Can also use a PS curves adjustment with a Luminosity blending mode and the curves adjustment will only affect luminosity without affecting saturation. Might be a bit easier than converting to the LAB color space.

[fimgirl]

Take a look at the focus mask also. Import images and click on focus mask and all that is crisp focus will be highlighted. As a manual focus shooter this aspect really speeds up my workflow. No individual 100% views needed, it's all there in one click.

[Dancealot]

Take a look at the focus mask also. Import images and click on focus mask and all that is crisp focus will be highlighted. As a manual focus shooter this aspect really speeds up my workflow. No individual 100% views needed, it's all there in one click.

Great. Another feature to speed things up.

Sorry to go off-topic a little bit: Fimgirl, I've been having trouble judging the correct focus distance while doing manual focus street shooting. I like to do it this way because it WAY more accurate then autofocus. Because there is only a limited frame of time before the subject notices me I need to be able to judge the correct distance between camera and subject when shooting from let's say: the hip. Apart from a lot of experience are there any solid tips on perfecting this judgement.

[Fiddlesticks]

Hey DAL, one thing you can do is to utilise the principle of hyperfocal distance. For a given focal length and f-stop you can find the hyperlocal distance. Once you focus on that point everything from half that distance to infinity will be in focus. I'll attach a URL where you can download a hyperlocal distance chart for your particular camera. I have downloaded the chart for my camera and uploaded it to my iPhone so that I can easily find hyperlocal distances for my lenses.

http://jamestyson.com.au/hyperfocal-distance-charts/

[fimgirl]

I use this one DoF plus HD by Jean-Christoph KAISER

https://appsto.re/th/m55OD.i

[Fiddlesticks]

I also have similar on my Photo Pills iPhone app. The apps are more handy but the charts are free!

[Dancealot]

Thanks for the tips on DoF. Hmm, another option would be to take the easy way and just shoot the whole thing in focus and produce a fake depth of field afterwards. I understand in some circumstances where I need to act fast I need to work this M.O. And I know photographers do this but it's less appealing to me. It takes away the charm... I chose for memorising the hyperfocal distances by trial and error. I'll need a couple of years for that. No problem.^

Edited December 2, 2015 by Dancealot

[Fiddlesticks]

Buy a point and shoot!!

[Dancealot]

Buy a point and shoot!!

No, I chose the hard way. Have all the time

[Fiddlesticks]

HFD is not that daunting if you commonly shoot your street shots at a common f-stop like f8. Then you just set need to learn the HFD for that f-stop. Granted it will vary some by focal length but you can fudge it a bit.

[rhythmworx]

Take a look at the focus mask also. Import images and click on focus mask and all that is crisp focus will be highlighted. As a manual focus shooter this aspect really speeds up my workflow. No individual 100% views needed, it's all there in one click.

Great. Another feature to speed things up.

Sorry to go off-topic a little bit: Fimgirl, I've been having trouble judging the correct focus distance while doing manual focus street shooting. I like to do it this way because it WAY more accurate then autofocus. Because there is only a limited frame of time before the subject notices me I need to be able to judge the correct distance between camera and subject when shooting from let's say: the hip. Apart from a lot of experience are there any solid tips on perfecting this judgement.

Probably not what your looking for but would work. They vary in price some go upto 100 metres or so.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-Ultrasonic-Distance-Meter-Tape-Measure-Laser-Pointer-With-Backlight-UK-/291629494508

Edited December 2, 2015 by rhythmworx

[Dancealot]

Take a look at the focus mask also. Import images and click on focus mask and all that is crisp focus will be highlighted. As a manual focus shooter this aspect really speeds up my workflow. No individual 100% views needed, it's all there in one click.

Great. Another feature to speed things up.

Sorry to go off-topic a little bit: Fimgirl, I've been having trouble judging the correct focus distance while doing manual focus street shooting. I like to do it this way because it WAY more accurate then autofocus. Because there is only a limited frame of time before the subject notices me I need to be able to judge the correct distance between camera and subject when shooting from let's say: the hip. Apart from a lot of experience are there any solid tips on perfecting this judgement.

Probably not what your looking for but would work. They vary in price some go upto 100 metres or so.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-Ultrasonic-Distance-Meter-Tape-Measure-Laser-Pointer-With-Backlight-UK-/291629494508

Excactly that, Rythem. If I could focus on the laser point, I can do night shot focussing with it as well. A regular flashlight doesn't produce enough light for that..

[Dancealot]

Capture One has another feature which I always missed in LR. You can drag any separate editing module outside the main working screen and the program remebers these setting after closing and new start up. It's very convenient and a feature I was always looking for.

Edited December 3, 2015 by Dancealot

[fimgirl]

When you've got it all setup as you like it, don't forget to go to window>workspace>save workspace -

[rhythmworx]

Take a look at the focus mask also. Import images and click on focus mask and all that is crisp focus will be highlighted. As a manual focus shooter this aspect really speeds up my workflow. No individual 100% views needed, it's all there in one click.

Great. Another feature to speed things up.

Sorry to go off-topic a little bit: Fimgirl, I've been having trouble judging the correct focus distance while doing manual focus street shooting. I like to do it this way because it WAY more accurate then autofocus. Because there is only a limited frame of time before the subject notices me I need to be able to judge the correct distance between camera and subject when shooting from let's say: the hip. Apart from a lot of experience are there any solid tips on perfecting this judgement.

Probably not what your looking for but would work. They vary in price some go upto 100 metres or so.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-Ultrasonic-Distance-Meter-Tape-Measure-Laser-Pointer-With-Backlight-UK-/291629494508

Excactly that, Rythem. If I could focus on the laser point, I can do night shot focussing with it as well. A regular flashlight doesn't produce enough light for that..

Build yourself one of these. http://www.diyphotography.net/building-a-crazy-1000w-led-flashlight/

I tried capture one once but I think it was V6 or maybe I'm getting mixed up with Dx0 mark, thanks for the heads up FG will give the new one a try.