BSJ Posted January 29, 2016 Share Posted January 29, 2016 Hi folks, never repaired a water pump before. Any one know the right way to get the impeller off the engine shaft? No visible fasteners so it's probably an interference fit. Very little clearance between the impeller and the alloy housing. Got to repair the housing where a big chunk of high quality Chinese alloy came away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StealthEnergiser Posted January 29, 2016 Share Posted January 29, 2016 An Impellor puller would most likely do the job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lovelomsak Posted January 29, 2016 Share Posted January 29, 2016 high quality Chinese alloy came away. Isn't that an oxymoron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
farmerjo Posted January 29, 2016 Share Posted January 29, 2016 (edited) The impellor may be on opposite thread. Take off the recoil rope starter and put a pair of stilsens on it locking the impellor at same time and turn in reverse. . Edited January 29, 2016 by farmerjo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickstart Posted January 29, 2016 Share Posted January 29, 2016 As FJ said that could be on a left hand thread ,looks like an alloy impeller ,try a bit of heat first ,rap a bit of cloth on the impeller ,pour on boiling water ,let it warm though ,for a few minuets ,the alloy will expand ,and should allow a removal , might have to lock the engine .Use to do this ,removing pistons from a engine. use a wooden block as a drift and give the impeller a sharp rap with a hammer ,might help to un freeze the threads. Not a lot to grip on the impeller ,stillsons or mole grips ,will be needed, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BSJ Posted January 30, 2016 Author Share Posted January 30, 2016 Thanks guys. I hadn't thought of it as being left hand (or reverse) threaded! It's a cast iron impeller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
farmerjo Posted January 30, 2016 Share Posted January 30, 2016 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iNB25nxJGHs Might be a little more stuborn than this if it hasn't be removed before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickstart Posted January 30, 2016 Share Posted January 30, 2016 Cast iron on a steel shaft ,forget the hot water ,rust will be a problem ,can not hit it, it will shatter .the only way I can think of lock the engine , and weld a bolt on to the impeller ,and use 2 nuts ,one to lock the other nut , use a spanner to undo the impeller ,problem welding steel to cast iron ,will need some cast iron welding rods , Rod -Lec-Lor in Thai , but will , the welding heat bugger up any seals ? When it is off just cut off the bolt ,and grind it all down . I have a feeling it will be easier said than done. Good luck . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BSJ Posted February 1, 2016 Author Share Posted February 1, 2016 Haven't had time to work in the workshop for a few days.....but the Farmerjo video was interesting! But it didn't mention locking the shaft at the other end. I'll give it a try. If that fails it will be Kickstarts solution. Yes I have special rods to weld cast iron and steel together. Yesterday tied up with the mango orchard. It's a lousy season this year and we will be lucky to cover our costs. One of the local buyers came around and took the lot our girls had picked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BSJ Posted February 1, 2016 Author Share Posted February 1, 2016 (edited) Double post! Edited February 1, 2016 by BSJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
farmerjo Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 Hi BSJ, Another way how to try without force is if you have a oil filter removal tool or a bit of old seat belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BSJ Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 Hi FarmerJo, 2 taps with the hammer on a drift and it spun off easy! On closer inspection the part had an opening originally as the cast alloy was way to smooth on the sides to be a full breakout. I'd say a partial breakout, but I filled the area with epoxy and left a smaller gap just in case some liquid starts leaking from one of the seals. Back together now and a test run after lunch! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickstart Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 For future reference, was it on a left hand or right thread . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now