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Bore Pump Cycling


pattayapip

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Hi, I have a Bore Hole that feeds 2 Water Tanks, and from there feeds the house via another Pump

Problem i have is that the Bore Pump "cycles" on and off while the last bits of water go into the tank via normal ballcock (Picture attached) post-14647-0-61341700-1455425527_thumb.j

Is there a different valve i could use inside the tank that would shut off the flow instantaneously when required level was reached ? As once the water stops completely the pump is fine.
Right now i am manually turning the pump on and off each day to stop this cycling :(

Any help appreciated thanks

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You can add or combine : depends on the make of pump, because some brands can provide those kits listed below

- a float switch in your tank : you only need one

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- a pressure switch at pump discharge piping

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- a timer in your control panel/board

post-171721-14554296054867_thumb.jpg

Edited by Thorgal
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Yup ^^^.

The electric float switch is the way to go, we have one like Thorgal shows that tops up our garden tank from the river when needed. With the river being low at present I only turn on the pump when I know there's water available, but the switch stops the tank overflowing.

We have a similar switch that kills the irrigation pump when the tank nears empty.

Leave the ball valve in place as a secondary cut off just in case.

Set up the float so the tank isn't quite full when it cuts the pump power, say farewell to pump cycling :)

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Seen the float switch in Thai Watsadu today, but that is connected to the pump yes ? and therefore cuts the pump off when level reached ?

My problem is my bore hole is outside near the garage and pumps some 20M to the Tanks inside, not really practical to try and connect all the way back to the Bore . . .

Some type of float valve that electronically cuts water input instantaneously at the actual Tank (Have power supply nearby) is what i really need, totally separate from Bore Pump at once valve is closed that is fine

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Rapid action float valves do exist, where to find on in Thailand I know not sad.png

A solenoid valve coupled with a float switch would do the trick, but not a cheap solution, the cable run may be better value.

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Burkert solenoid valves are reliable German on/off valves which operate with 24 or 220 Volts.

From a local random website : 2/2 way solenoid on/off brass for water applications :

http://www.flutech.co.th/index.php?lay=show&ac=cat_show_pro_detail&cid=58608&pid=301457

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They are available in Thailand, but are expensive. For a 1" on/off valve in brass goes to the +/- 15.000 THB. All parts can be purchased separately in case of defect.

The float switch will be much cheaper if you connect the switch with the 3 or 5m cable to an additional IP55 JB (junction box). The JB is required to connect to the longer pump wires. All together : below 2000 THB...

post-171721-14554406371953_thumb.jpg

Edited by Thorgal
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You shouldn't really use the float switch to directly control the pump. Float switches aren't designed to carry load current, and inrush current of the motor on start up may be more that some switches can stand.

Use a contactor to control the supply to the pump from the house, with the float switch controlling the contactor.

They have a selection of them in Global House. Make sure the coil voltage matches the supply voltage.

Ideally you should also have an overload fitted to the contactor to prevent the borehole pump motor from burning out.

And in an ideal world I would keep the control voltage as low as 25 volts.

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