Ups

[yeti]

Hi,

I have seen 5 UPS in Lotus:

- Active 500VA 1690THB

- Exact 600VA 1890THB

- Editline Hercules 800VA 1690THB

- D3 800VA 1990THB

- D3 1000VA 2190THB

They all have phoneline protection.

Are those as good as any other, or are they useless cr@p?

It would be for a computer with 2 hardrives, a monitor, occasionally a batteryless laptop and a fax machine.

There are power cuts once or twice a month, and a generator which takes over with limited supply after few minutes.

There is no earthing, and not much I can do about it (I rent my condo).

Thxs for your help.

[elkangorito]

Hi,

I have seen 5 UPS in Lotus:

- Active 500VA 1690THB

- Exact 600VA 1890THB

- Editline Hercules 800VA 1690THB

- D3 800VA 1990THB

- D3 1000VA 2190THB

They all have phoneline protection.

Are those as good as any other, or are they useless cr@p?

It would be for a computer with 2 hardrives, a monitor, occasionally a batteryless laptop and a fax machine.

There are power cuts once or twice a month, and a generator which takes over with limited supply after few minutes.

There is no earthing, and not much I can do about it (I rent my condo).

Thxs for your help.

Your questions can't really be answered without knowing more technical detail about the UPS units you specify. However, to figure out the size UPS you need, find out how much current (Amps) that each appliance uses & multiply this figure by 220. This will give you the VA rating of the UPS.

For example, an average size power supply for a computer is 300 Watts & the average monitor will draw about 2 Amps. Assume the 300 Watts is VA (power supply) & multiply 2 Amps by 220 (monitor) = 440VA.

Totalling; 300VA + 440VA = 740VA.

In this case, I would select the 800VA unit if I was sure I wasn't going to "upgrade" or add on anything. If you would like some room for add ons, upgrading etc, select the 1000VA unit.

Essentially, there are 2 types of UPS:

1. Static switch to alternate supply (battery) without filtering,

2. As above but with filtering.

The filter mentioned above, constantly filters the power delivered to the appliances whilst it is drawing from the "normal" supply. It controls the sine wave shape to a small degree.

The batteries should be of the lead acid variety & NOT the gel variety. Gel batteries have a greatly reduced life & performance if used in temperatures above 25 degrees Celsius. In any case, the battery should be replaced every year, otherwise you will be defeating the purpose of buying a UPS.

[Pink Mist]

Hi,

I have seen 5 UPS in Lotus:

- Active 500VA 1690THB

- Exact 600VA 1890THB

- Editline Hercules 800VA 1690THB

- D3 800VA 1990THB

- D3 1000VA 2190THB

They all have phoneline protection.

Are those as good as any other, or are they useless cr@p?

It would be for a computer with 2 hardrives, a monitor, occasionally a batteryless laptop and a fax machine.

There are power cuts once or twice a month, and a generator which takes over with limited supply after few minutes.

There is no earthing, and not much I can do about it (I rent my condo).

Thxs for your help.

Your questions can't really be answered without knowing more technical detail about the UPS units you specify. However, to figure out the size UPS you need, find out how much current (Amps) that each appliance uses & multiply this figure by 220. This will give you the VA rating of the UPS.

For example, an average size power supply for a computer is 300 Watts & the average monitor will draw about 2 Amps. Assume the 300 Watts is VA (power supply) & multiply 2 Amps by 220 (monitor) = 440VA.

Totalling; 300VA + 440VA = 740VA.

In this case, I would select the 800VA unit if I was sure I wasn't going to "upgrade" or add on anything. If you would like some room for add ons, upgrading etc, select the 1000VA unit.

Essentially, there are 2 types of UPS:

1. Static switch to alternate supply (battery) without filtering,

2. As above but with filtering.

The filter mentioned above, constantly filters the power delivered to the appliances whilst it is drawing from the "normal" supply. It controls the sine wave shape to a small degree.

The batteries should be of the lead acid variety & NOT the gel variety. Gel batteries have a greatly reduced life & performance if used in temperatures above 25 degrees Celsius. In any case, the battery should be replaced every year, otherwise you will be defeating the purpose of buying a UPS.

are you a high school graduate or first year engineering student, or worse still wet behind ears graduate

2 types of UPS, what about constant online

filters dont shape voltage waveforms, they filter

if you dont know your stuff wait till you get qualified b4 you give advice

[yeti]

are you a high school graduate or first year engineering student, or worse still wet behind ears graduate

2 types of UPS, what about constant online

filters dont shape voltage waveforms, they filter

if you dont know your stuff wait till you get qualified b4 you give advice

What are your advice on this? Know any of the brand I mentionned?

[Tywais]

What are your advice on this? Know any of the brand I mentionned?

For those prices and VA rating combinations, those are pretty low end UPSes and, sorry, wouldn't trust any of them. If you can afford more then that then go shopping for APC or you can order off the Internet (thailand) if there are no shops. APC is expensive but all I buy for our laboratory. I did buy a Powercom about 3 years ago for home because the price was better and it is still running perfectly and never failed to work on a power fluctuation or outright power failure.

[astral]

They will do the job, but only last about 10 minutes.

[cdnvic]

I wouldn't risk a no-name UPS. There are so many pieces of crap chinese electronics out there that you don't know how poorly they perform until they fail when you need them. I'd recomend a known brand with a warrantee. If you get an unknown at least buy a good surge protector to back it up.

[tjo o tjim]

If the UPS is rated for 15 minutes, and you have a 10-minute interruption twice a month, the batteries will be worthless in less than a year.

The important unit for you to understand is watts rather than VA. Consumer UPSs usually have a 0.5 to 0.6 "Power Factor," which means they can only carry about half the Watts as the VA listed (dumb marketing gimmic in the industry).

For what you describe, it sounds like about 400W + the fax. If you are unlucky and the fax machine warms up while you are on battery, you will end up needing a much larger unit. It's cheaper to just put the fax on its own cheap unit, if you really need it.

Don't worry about things you can't control. TiT, go for two of the 1000VA ones and have the second one around for when the first one breaks. The 800VA unit might work, but the bigger battery will extend the battery life slightly.

[yeti]

I guess I'll go Panthip or Fortune then, and buy a 600 or 800 VA APC, Powercom or Syndome, and won't use it to power the fax machine (only for the phoneline to the fax).

What about this one though? http://www.leonics.com/html/en/pd_pqp/ups/explorer.php. Is Leonics just a local brand or a well known one? The space saving design could be nice.

[endure]

Do the cheap brands have PC control like APC? Do they shut the PC down gracefully via software and a USB/serial connection?

[higgy88]

I am using a Leonics UPS which I bought over 8 years ago and it is still going strong. I just have to replace the battery about every 2 years or so. I am also using a cheapo Powergard UPS for another computer, which I bought about 2 1/2 years ago and that is also working just fine, and I have yet to replace the battery on that one so I am keeping an eye on it. They both use standard 12 volt sealed lead-acid batteries, the same you will find in any car or motorcycle, the only difference is the size. I periodically test them, when I think about it and today seems like a good time, by shutting down the computer, but keeping the monotor on (which is your biggest power draw, especially the old CRT monotors which use about 100 to 150 watts same as a standard TV), and I just unplug the UPS to make sure it does what it is supposed to and see how long it will last. I do this for about 8 to 10 minutes, long enough to make sure I have enough time to shut the computer down in case of a power failure but not too long that I completely drain the battery. Before I bought the Powergard, I had bought another cheapo UPS, I don't remember the brand, which lasted less than a year before it crapped out.

[Pink Mist]

I am not plugging these UPS's but would suggest you download the specs and use them as a guide when selecting one on LOS, they may be available there. The King Pro is my choice for comparison.

Genaust

[bangbuathong]

I guess I'll go Panthip or Fortune then, and buy a 600 or 800 VA APC, Powercom or Syndome, and won't use it to power the fax machine (only for the phoneline to the fax).

What about this one though? http://www.leonics.com/html/en/pd_pqp/ups/explorer.php. Is Leonics just a local brand or a well known one? The space saving design could be nice.

I had a leonics UPS but after upgrading my computer it was not up to the job anymore

Went for a new one, and found this APC UPS at Pantip Plaza, at the Uficon Macmart on the lower floor (in the back)

I had to ask them 3 times for the price as i did not expect it to be so cheap.

The monitoring program is excelent, as it gives you the current consumption with its estemated back-up time and what you can connect more to your UPS and all the bells and whistles.

Printers and Fax machines are a real waste to be put on a UPS.

[yeti]

I had to ask them 3 times for the price as i did not expect it to be so cheap.

How much was that?

[friend2]

How risky a proposition is it to change the battery yourself ?

I'm not totally a screwdriver

[Tywais]

How risky a proposition is it to change the battery yourself ?

I'm not totally a screwdriver

Not difficult at all. Most have slip on spade lugs on the battery. Just open the case, pull the lugs off the terminal, put a new battery in and slip the cables back on. Charge it with no load for 24 hours, and ready to go. Due to the large number of UPSes at the office, do it often.

[friend2]

Ok, thanks for that info.

Sounds doable.

I'm good with computers, but not the electrical stuff.

I'm worried I touch something and get zapped

[elkangorito]

Hi,

I have seen 5 UPS in Lotus:

- Active 500VA 1690THB

- Exact 600VA 1890THB

- Editline Hercules 800VA 1690THB

- D3 800VA 1990THB

- D3 1000VA 2190THB

They all have phoneline protection.

Are those as good as any other, or are they useless cr@p?

It would be for a computer with 2 hardrives, a monitor, occasionally a batteryless laptop and a fax machine.

There are power cuts once or twice a month, and a generator which takes over with limited supply after few minutes.

There is no earthing, and not much I can do about it (I rent my condo).

Thxs for your help.

Your questions can't really be answered without knowing more technical detail about the UPS units you specify. However, to figure out the size UPS you need, find out how much current (Amps) that each appliance uses & multiply this figure by 220. This will give you the VA rating of the UPS.

For example, an average size power supply for a computer is 300 Watts & the average monitor will draw about 2 Amps. Assume the 300 Watts is VA (power supply) & multiply 2 Amps by 220 (monitor) = 440VA.

Totalling; 300VA + 440VA = 740VA.

In this case, I would select the 800VA unit if I was sure I wasn't going to "upgrade" or add on anything. If you would like some room for add ons, upgrading etc, select the 1000VA unit.

Essentially, there are 2 types of UPS:

1. Static switch to alternate supply (battery) without filtering,

2. As above but with filtering.

The filter mentioned above, constantly filters the power delivered to the appliances whilst it is drawing from the "normal" supply. It controls the sine wave shape to a small degree.

The batteries should be of the lead acid variety & NOT the gel variety. Gel batteries have a greatly reduced life & performance if used in temperatures above 25 degrees Celsius. In any case, the battery should be replaced every year, otherwise you will be defeating the purpose of buying a UPS.

are you a high school graduate or first year engineering student, or worse still wet behind ears graduate

2 types of UPS, what about constant online

filters dont shape voltage waveforms, they filter

if you dont know your stuff wait till you get qualified b4 you give advice

In actual fact Bronco, there are 3 types of UPS. In my reply, I was trying to keep things simple. The 3 types are as follows;

Off Line UPS

An off-line UPS will filter noise, surges and spikes from the utility power before passing it to the load. The battery which stands off-line (and therefore does not see the normal utility power) is charged on a required basis. When power failure is detected switch is activated and the power is supplied from the battery.

Line Interactive UPS

Line Interactive UPS combine some of the advantages of stand by units with those of on line units. Normal power passes through the noise filters and surge suppressors before going into an inverter, part of which is on-line all the time. The inverter acts as a battery charger under normal conditions but on power failure will provide battery back-up.

On Line UPS

With On-Line systems the input current passes through their major components all the time. A steady nominal output is obtained and if the line falls or goes outside of the input limits, the battery will instantly carry on delivering power to the load.

Oh, & by the way, filters DO change the shape of a waveform....from distorted to less distorted or even to no distortion.

Do you know "your stuff"?

What are your advice on this? Know any of the brand I mentionned?

For those prices and VA rating combinations, those are pretty low end UPSes and, sorry, wouldn't trust any of them. If you can afford more then that then go shopping for APC or you can order off the Internet (thailand) if there are no shops. APC is expensive but all I buy for our laboratory. I did buy a Powercom about 3 years ago for home because the price was better and it is still running perfectly and never failed to work on a power fluctuation or outright power failure.

I fully agree. Pay peanuts....get monkeys.

If the UPS is rated for 15 minutes, and you have a 10-minute interruption twice a month, the batteries will be worthless in less than a year.

The important unit for you to understand is watts rather than VA. Consumer UPSs usually have a 0.5 to 0.6 "Power Factor," which means they can only carry about half the Watts as the VA listed (dumb marketing gimmic in the industry). This is not a "gimmick"...nor is it dumb. VA is normally associated with the output of a device but it is usually used to indicate voltage & current so that electrical insulation can be selected (Volts) & the current carrying capacity of cables can be selected (Amps). Power Factor does not change the current through a device...it's still the same at all power factors. Generally speaking, it is easier to use VA for calculating the size of a "supply" device. If you must use watts as a part of the calculation, assume that 1 watt = 1.7 VA (general rule). For example, if your monitor does not have a power input rating but has a current rating, multiply the current rating by the input voltage to get VA. If you have a power rating (Watts) like a computer power supply has, multiply the power rating by 1.7 to get VA. VA is used because current is the most important factor when selecting power supplies/transformers/generators etc. Power Factor has more to do with the load connected to the supply (your computer etc) so forget about Power Factor & stick to VA. BTW, my previous calculation was obviously wrong when I assumed that a 300W power supply could be assumed as 300VA. The correct answer is about 500VA.

For what you describe, it sounds like about 400W + the fax. If you are unlucky and the fax machine warms up while you are on battery, you will end up needing a much larger unit. It's cheaper to just put the fax on its own cheap unit, if you really need it.

Don't worry about things you can't control. TiT, go for two of the 1000VA ones and have the second one around for when the first one breaks. The 800VA unit might work, but the bigger battery will extend the battery life slightly.

[lopburi3]

Turn off. Unplug. Remove case (several screws), remove terminal clips to battery, remove battery (may be a hold down screw/bar or two), replace and assemble. Quite easy - just be sure to get same size battery and same + terminal to + and - to - when putting clips back on.