Sheryl

Yes I know. I calibrated it before use. Photo was just to get explanation of where to read and how to use it.

It glows regardless of whether any a/c is on Glow gets stronger as the night goes on

220 v without water (or any major appliance like a/c) on Turning on hot water (so both water pump & water heater in action) 190 v. This is at the fixture, I didn't bother yet with the switch.

I think what is earthed is the main power supply and the 2 water heaters, retrofitted in both cases. As the original wiring was done without any grounding all the outlets lack ground wire.

Lights glowing after switched off (for the entire night, getting brighter as the night goes on) and mild shocks (tingles) from metallic surfaces have been the norm since my house was built and long predate switch to LEDs.

36 Amp is exactly what the heater manual says. And 28 Amps was what was recently measured in actual use. So it seems all good on that front just an ignorant "electrician" who does not know difference between kW and amps....?

The flickering was only in one bathroom light and has now been redolved by tossing the (new) bulb and using a different one. Lights glowing all night after turned off is most of the house and long standing.. Hence the discussion of grounding as orher pisters had said grounding might be the issue. LED lights not lasting is the whole house and a problem I never had with the old style fluorescents.

I have no way of knowing where the ground attaches to the neutral. But the lights were glowing before any ground was added. (This was actual one reason I put in the ground...but it did not help). Should add the glowing seems to increase as it gets later at night (?related to move power coming through in the wee hours?)

Ir is precisely LED that is giving me problems!!! I was fine with fluorescent. Switched to LED only because suddenly they were all fgat was available. No savings in electricity at all noted with the change. Just constant expense and hassle of needing to replace bulbs because thd LEDs just do not last in my house for some reason. From what I am reading online issues may have to do with the "driver" component which is apparently very tempermental and does not tolerate flunctuations in frequency well.

This may have been what local "electrician" used on the water heater and read at 28 amps. He used something he could clamp onto the heating element. His issue was that he insisted it should not have been more than 9 amps. (Specs say 36 amps). Apparently he based this on labelling for about 9 kW i.e. he did not understand the difference between A and kW.

Update: 1. I completely shut off the water heater and took shower without it, and found that running water at all, even without the heater, also caused the lightb to flicker just not as rapidly. Definitely no way the water pump, located on ground floor outside the house, shares a neutral wire with the hot water heater. So the flickering was related to dip in power supply and presumably otherwise unrelated to the water heater which - contrary to the claim of local "electricians" - does not draw more power than it is supposed to, per the specs. 2. Switched the bulbs to one that was working fine elsewhere. Presto - no more flickering!! So despite being brand new, a faulty bulb. I don't think an issue with installation as handyman re-installed it several times with no change, and also same handyman installed the other bulb. (And multiple bulbs throughout the house, none of which flicker). As mentioned I have very bad experience with these new LED bulbs that contain multiple round bulbs, they seem to burn out at a very rapid rate. I have no idea why, did not happen with the old kind at all and nothing new in my wiring that I know of. For more than a year these multi-bulb things were the only things locally available. Just recently these have now appeared in Home Pro: https://www.homepro.co.th/p/1055118?lang=en Does anyone have any experience with these -- or other brands they can recommend?? As for the glow problem, I will verify if the switches are on the live wires or not. This will take time as lots of switches/lights, it's a big house. From what has been said I assume that if that is ruled out then the glow is likely due to an issue is likely with grounding? The house was completely ungrounded when initially wired (of course). I subsequently had an electrician in from Bangkok (very, very hard to arrange) who put in a large ground metal rod into the ground at the back of the house which connects to a large green wire running down from what I think is called the the main circuit board or distribution board: I can't begin to sort out what is going on within the circuit board/box other than that there are 2 fairly large green wires coming down from the ceiling area where all the wiring is into screws at the top, and then a number of green wires coming off other screws and eventually one fairly large green wires snakes its way around and comes out and goes down to the ground. It is quite crowded inside the box and I am nto about to start touching and moving wires within it. In short there is a large ground wire that leads from the circuit/distribution box to a metal pole going deep into the ground but I have no idea what if anything it actually accomplishes, and I also don't know where the ground wires that run from the 2 hot water heaters up in the ceiling go or if they connect to the green wiring coming back down (presumably should). Installation of this ground did not change the light afterglows. Is there some easy way to check the effectiveness of the grounding?

Sorry, I have no idea what you mean....?

Glad it is not only me. Am I right to think the line above the voltage line (the one that runs 0 - 50) is amps?

OK, several folks now have said the problem maybe that the switch is wired with neutral instead of live. How should that be tested for? Touch the voltmeter to the wire the switch is on? If it is neutral would that then show no juice or low juice??

No not that.Small black knob above and to the right of the main settings. It says above it O followed by a symbol then ADJ. Someone else said it is for calibrating/xeroing the meter.

Thank you. I will try the bulb switch tomorrow as a first step... Don't know why I didn't think of it!! Stay tuned and I'll post the results tomorrow. I too thought the afterglow must mean electrical leakage since even turning off the circuits doesn't stop it. But I am not clear what you mean by a "junction box"? Is it the same as the fuse box? If so, what would cause leakage there/ how to confirm it/ what can be done about it?

Sorry I don't follow. I do have fluorescent lights and specifically one of them flickers wildly when I take a shower. Started only after bulb replaced (tho prior bulb burned out quicker than it should have). The glowing bit was mentioned only as background in case relevant and is not the immediate problem.

Ok thanks. This is not the immediate ptoblem, I only mentioned it as background in case relevant. Probably shouldn't have as it seems to have distracted people. You may well be right about it's cause though, makes sense .

How could I check this? Handyman did mention something about the switch feeling hot..... But when switch is on how why would this matter? Or were you referring to the afterglow rather than the flickering while turned on?

Interesting. Could this be due to something wrong in the light fixture due somehow to how the new light bulb was installed? (As problem only started then). Or does it have to be from a problem in the water heater itself? (Which seems to work fine). I ask because have to decide whether to invest in having Stiebel send out technician from Bangkok (very costly as 6 hour r/t drive -- I'll certainly do it if indicated but hate to waste my money and their time if the issue is in the light fixture. ).

As mentioned the manufacturer specs state 8 - 36 amps. It is installed only in 1 bathroom. I know it is more power than would need for shower only but I like to take baths. Anyway chouce of water heater is not the issue. I've had it for 7 years and it suits my needs and still works fine. Issue is in nearby (but on separate circuit) light fixture and started only after new bulb change.

It would cost me quite a lot to have them vome out since I live ipcountry and they would have to vome from Bangkok. I would certainly still do it if I thought the hot water heater was the problem but I really doubt it because: - installed by Stiebel not l8cals -working fine, no issues with its function. Problem is solely in nearby light fixture and there, only after new bulb installed.

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