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Sheryl

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Everything posted by Sheryl

  1. It is not so much a matter of being annoyed - the only one that could cause annoyance is the bedroom and I wear eye shades anyhow to avoid being awoken by the rising sun. The issue is that I worry it might signify something that needs fixing. Though if it does, hasn't done me nay real harm in almost 30 years, knock on wood, other than possibly adding to my electric bill a bit?
  2. Ah so what would it show when there is no Ground? None of my outlets have one
  3. Toshiba or Lamton it will be. And if those keep burning out, I may consider trying to go back to old style fluorescent. I think LEDs do not do well in areas with frequent fluctuations of voltage and/or frequency . Fluorescents much more forgiving in that setting.
  4. I always use Freefillable forms But, I do keep a US mobile phone number. Off most of the time, I turn it on in Thailand only to receive SMSes. Having a Thai address is no problem, all my returns have Thai address. But to create the account (which you have to re-do each year) need a US phone number.
  5. Not likely to have any issue with that.
  6. Yes I am rapidly concluding there are some really bad quality LEDs out there.
  7. Interesting. What is N-E?
  8. The white wire screws do not light up. The small breakers all do. Including one not in use (no wires coming out), is that an issue or no?
  9. Could message them via Facebook https://www.facebook.com/p/Arkarnya-อาคารยา-100057067615501/ Probabl yalso worth asking Medisafe
  10. The official rule is 30 day supply but it is not strictly enforced as long as amount looks consistent with personal use. Mailing to yourself is hit or miss, key is to keep quantities small and never use a courier only regular post. Like that will usually get through but no guarantee. There is a testosterone gel product available in Thailand though not Testovan brand. Androgel which contains 50 mg per 5 g sachet (normally 1 sachet = 1 dose but I suppose you could divide in half though no way to get that division to be exact). Can be bought from pharmacies, no need to ask a hospital. But not cheap. About 2,500 baht for 30 sachets.
  11. It does not require a prescription in Thailand so yes, can be bought over the counter but may be hard to source. Maybe @retarius could share details of the pharmacy he got it from by mail.
  12. Hardly limited to the Washington Post. https://www.mayoclinic.org/healthy-lifestyle/consumer-health/in-depth/kratom/art-20402171 Kratom products are not regulated or tested in the US so actual amount iof active ingrediant can be all over the map, not contamination with other substances is always a possibility: "Harmful contaminants such as heavy metals and disease-causing bacteria have been found in some kratom products." https://www.nccih.nih.gov/health/kratom There is also the possible issue of drug interactions in people on other medications or using other substances, there is as yet insufficient information available on its interactions, again because not classed as a pharmaeceutical agent in most countries.
  13. Great, got it. So just apply the light-up device to those screws? With the power on? Exactly how to take care in that situation?
  14. Extraneous to the glowing problem (which well predates LEDs), but possibly germaner to hte LED specific issues, I found this online: "Have you ever wondered why your LED lights are flickering? Or why they aren’t as bright as they used to be? You may have noticed they’re getting unusually hot or not lasting as long as they should. These issues can often be traced back to the LED driver, a crucial component that regulates the power supplied to the light-emitting diode (LED)..... 2.1: Flickering or Flashing Lights Flickering or flashing lights can indicate a problem with the LED driver. This can occur if the driver is not supplying a constant current, causing the LED to fluctuate in brightness. This is not only annoying but can also reduce the lifespan of the LED.... ...2.3: Short Lifespan of LED Lights LED lights are known for their long lifespan, but the driver could blame them if they burn out quickly. Overdriving the LEDs, or supplying them with too much current, can cause them to burn out prematurely." https://www.ledyilighting.com/troubleshooting-led-driver-issues-common-problems-and-solutions/ And elsewhere, on the subject of what might cause LED drive to misfunction, I found: "2. Poor Quality: Another common reason for early LED failure is poor quality. When buying LED lights, be sure to purchase from a reputable brand. Cheap knock-offs are more likely to overheat and burn out quickly. 3. Excessive Current: LED lights are designed to work with a specific amount of current. If too much current is flowing through the light, it can cause the light to overheat and burn out. This is usually caused by a wiring issue or a faulty power supply. 4. Voltage Fluctuations: Frequent voltage fluctuations can also cause LED lights to overheat and burn out prematurely. This is often the case in areas with unstable power, such as in countries with unreliable electricity." https://midlandauthors.com/what-causes-led-lights-to-burn-out/ So I am tentatively thinking, as regards the LED issues that: 1 - the flickering was due to a poor quality bulb (despite costing enough and coming form Home Pro. Trye that it wasn't a brand name I recognized). To avoid recurrence, esides Lamtan can others suggest specific brands that are good? Most of what they have seem to be brands I have never heard of and of course the home Pro staff are worse than useless. 2 - the rapid burn out of these things, which is happening everywhere in the house, might be due to voltage fluctuations. I am located at the very end of the Ampur grid. When I first moved in, in 1997, I had huge problems with under-voltage, so much that I had to install a step up transformer for a while. In the course of discussions with Lenovo tech about this he had me record voltage readings off the unit and he could not believe how wide the swings were. At that time there was a lot of construction in the area and during the day voltage would dip way down, then at night it would come way up. A few years passed, the construction finished (and maybe the power supply also improved, who knows) and the big drops in power stopped so I eventually ditched the step up transformer (or maybe just did not replace it when it died, I forget which). Anyhow - point is, that I suspect my location does have wide fluctuations in incoming voltage and especially may have more coming in late at night (when usage in the area is low) and that while this did not trouble the old fashioned fluorescents, the LEDs are sensitive to it and thus burn out. Does this seem plausible? Might explain why some posters say LEDS work fine for them whereas I and a few others have opposite experience. If power fluctuations are the issue then my choices are: - live with constant replacement of these %^*$ things (annoying) - get a whole house voltage stabilizer (costly) - revert to old fluorescents ( would require getting not just spare bulbs but ballasts, starters etc online and who knows how long they'll remain available. Already tossed all the old ones)
  15. Sorry, where exactly is the "bar on the left with all the white wires"? And where do I check for current? (with or without power off?)
  16. Yes, have one and will check but will take time as many, many switches involved. Maybe tomorrow.
  17. Yes I know. I calibrated it before use. Photo was just to get explanation of where to read and how to use it.
  18. It glows regardless of whether any a/c is on Glow gets stronger as the night goes on
  19. 220 v without water (or any major appliance like a/c) on Turning on hot water (so both water pump & water heater in action) 190 v. This is at the fixture, I didn't bother yet with the switch.
  20. I think what is earthed is the main power supply and the 2 water heaters, retrofitted in both cases. As the original wiring was done without any grounding all the outlets lack ground wire.
  21. Lights glowing after switched off (for the entire night, getting brighter as the night goes on) and mild shocks (tingles) from metallic surfaces have been the norm since my house was built and long predate switch to LEDs.
  22. 36 Amp is exactly what the heater manual says. And 28 Amps was what was recently measured in actual use. So it seems all good on that front just an ignorant "electrician" who does not know difference between kW and amps....?
  23. The flickering was only in one bathroom light and has now been redolved by tossing the (new) bulb and using a different one. Lights glowing all night after turned off is most of the house and long standing.. Hence the discussion of grounding as orher pisters had said grounding might be the issue. LED lights not lasting is the whole house and a problem I never had with the old style fluorescents.
  24. I have no way of knowing where the ground attaches to the neutral. But the lights were glowing before any ground was added. (This was actual one reason I put in the ground...but it did not help). Should add the glowing seems to increase as it gets later at night (?related to move power coming through in the wee hours?)
  25. Ir is precisely LED that is giving me problems!!! I was fine with fluorescent. Switched to LED only because suddenly they were all fgat was available. No savings in electricity at all noted with the change. Just constant expense and hassle of needing to replace bulbs because thd LEDs just do not last in my house for some reason. From what I am reading online issues may have to do with the "driver" component which is apparently very tempermental and does not tolerate flunctuations in frequency well.
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