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DekDaeng

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Posts posted by DekDaeng

  1. On 9/5/2020 at 9:27 PM, sometimewoodworker said:

    Not on my pump it’s variable as I showed in the pictures above (22psi to 80psi), neither is it on the inverter pumps by Mitsubishi and hitachi 

     

    Pipe in the wall usually have enough UV protection, but yes I’ve has a pipe go brittle and burst. That is why I almost always use 13.5 pipe now.

    Of course but the bigger the pump the higher the set point is unless you have an inverter when it’s variable by the user.

    Normal pump / normal switch is variable by the user, too; there is a grub screw in the centre of the top of the switch - (under the cover) screw it down for higher pressure, up for lower. Not too much. ????

  2. 3 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

    Or setting on the pump. And your point is?

     

    My statement referred to the suggestion that you should use the biggest pump you can. This is poor advice and can lead to pipe failure.

    the 'setting on the pump' is the pressure switch setting. 

    I can't say pipes bursting in the walls is impossible, but I have never heard of it. My pressure is set at 36 psi - & that is good for 5 floors including a roof garden. 1" PVC is good for 450 PSI so a fair factor of safety there. Unless the joint was made badly - (very) 

     

    Do you have experience of pipes bursting, from pump pressure?

     

    PS it doesn't matter what size (power) pump you put in, the power will be cut as soon as the pressure reaches the switch set point.

    It might help to have a reservoir tank at the end of your line to dampen any hydraulic shocks - also gives 'immediate water' when you turn on any tap -

     

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  3. 34 minutes ago, bankruatsteve said:

    If you need to save B2K and your old pump was more than enough, go for it. Sounds like a sensible choice. 

    Fujika have a service - 'long motor' ???? - new pump & motor change for 2,000, for their 250 watt pump. 

     

    Mitsu may have the same?

     

    I would not go to a lower power, as that might mean your service life sig. reduced.

     

    Chances of pipe bursting not high, IMHO - ????

     

    Is the pressure or flow inadequate now? What has changed?

    • Like 2
  4. On 3/14/2020 at 4:35 PM, DekDaeng said:

    I put a new foot valve on - it leaks a little. May make a new one with a softer silicon o ring to seal.   

     

    But I can fully prime, at top of well riser, and at pump inlet. Still, it will not start pumping. Have found a temp soln, connect to neighbours town supply during the night (when town pressure is ok - then pump pumps well, 30 min I can pump enough for the garden etc for next 24 hours, saved in big rice storage bins. Much better than carrying it up!

     

    Well water level is pump -6M; drought might be part of the problem Anybody got an ETA on the wet season?

    Right, Crossy. An old slip joint at top of well decided to start leaking. Had not moved or changed in ~ 15 years, so did not suspect it.

     

    Gold standard leak test is air pressure test. Prime full circuit with water, then inject air @  40psi. You will find all leaks in seconds. Actually only leaks on suction side matter - leaks on the output / pressure side find themselves - )

     

    If you haven't got a compressor, you may be able to bleed air off a spare tyre to pressurise circuit.

     

    Chok dee.

     

     

     

    • Like 1
  5. On 3/5/2020 at 4:14 PM, Crossy said:

    Is the foot valve serviceable / obstructed (not closing)?

     

    Possible air leak on the suction side?

    I put a new foot valve on - it leaks a little. May make a new one with a softer silicon o ring to seal.   

     

    But I can fully prime, at top of well riser, and at pump inlet. Still, it will not start pumping. Have found a temp soln, connect to neighbours town supply during the night (when town pressure is ok - then pump pumps well, 30 min I can pump enough for the garden etc for next 24 hours, saved in big rice storage bins. Much better than carrying it up!

     

    Well water level is pump -6M; drought might be part of the problem Anybody got an ETA on the wet season?

  6. Hi AB,

    Could I suggest you get with the C20th?

    Put up some solar panels and a battery. All your sunshine can be used, reduce your power bills 365 days a year. No noise, quality & efficiency  is getting better all the time. How much is your monthly power bill & cost / kw/hr? 

     

    I have not done this yet, considering to do it - things are 'in flux' a the moment.

     

    There are DIY kits available online.

     

    P'raps Genset might consider to offer solar / batt as an option, rather than dead dinosaurs. I imagine a few might be interested to do this?

     

    Chok Dee

     

    P.S. Put up enough panels you can charge your car (iff'n you've got an EV), as well - ????

  7. Have found a temp solution - connected to town water, with positive pressure at intake,  pump will start pumping, with a good output. But neither orig or new pump will start, w/o.

    ???

     

    Thanks for  your suggestions -

  8. I have a 'Forerun' brand 550 watt pump, which just refuses to prime. In spite supposedly being able to provide 8 m suction, even if I prime it with 8 m head! (i.e. from the top of my 3 story shophouse) it still refuses to pump! I have had it working intermittently, (from a large bucket)  but when I place it 'in line' - it just sits and spins - as you can see in the vid. Previous pump was a 250 watt fujika, which had ok performance, so 550 SHOULD be great for my place & roof garden  

     

    Grateful for any suggestions -

     

    Thanks,

    Deks

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