lom

33 minutes ago, McTavish said:

I'll try and tweak our Deye to reduce the alerts as they occur a little too often for my liking.

The factory settings give you quite a big operation range for both frequency and voltage so I don't think changing them will improve anything, normally your grid should be far away from those lower and upper limits.

You really don't want to allow a wider voltage range, those values are for protection.

If you are using the Solarman PC software then you can easily see a list of alerts and check them against the 24 hour graphs for that day to see if there are any strange dips in production or consumption.

4 hours ago, McTavish said:

I note a number of over/under frequency/voltage alarms have occurred, yesterdays lightning causing one, and suspect the factory default settings may need tweaking.

I have the same inverter, just the 12KW big brother of yours, and I am running it with factory AC settings. I had a couple of warning alerts the first month but they seem to have disappeared now. A few of them occurred when PEA high-voltage fuse blown and was probably caused by the transients/ringing on the HV-lines, nearby lightning is likely to do the same.

I wouldn't worry to much about those warnings, they never cut off the inverter for me.

2 minutes ago, MangoKorat said:

I would rather have real world figures - given by people living in Thailand. We have several members here who have long standing solar installations.

I've told you what I have and I've also informed you of the variables involved.  Start with reading your PEA meter at sunrise and sunset for a couple of days, mixed rainy and sunny, so you get an idea of your power consumption. Then decide how much of a 24 hour day you want to cover with panel power (and battery power).

With that said I'm now leaving your thread.

43 minutes ago, MangoKorat said:

You clearly don't understand. I am suggesting/asking if I can place solar panels over my septic tank/soakaway area and if so, how many sq m of panels would be needed to supply my house.

How long is a rope? 

You are the only one who can decide how many panels you need which is mainly based on your power consumption between 07-17. The size of a single panel and its power rating is available from the seller or you can google it for a specific panel. Reduce 10% of panel power to compensate for losses. Choose an all-in-one off-grid hybrid inverter which can run in grid-tie mode, it will produce up to its limit (or panel power limit) for your house use and if that is not enough then it will take the reminder from the grid. If the inverter dies after you die then everything will be as if you've never had an inverter, your family will get a PEA bill for every KWh they use. No need for an electrician to come and scratch his head..

If you are thinking of adding batteries then it can be done later but then you may need more panels depending on how much battery storage you choose and how fast you want to fully charge them. 07-17 is daylight but best solar power is between 9-15.

My system is 16 455W panels in W, 16 455W panels in east and a Deye 12KW 3-phase hybrid inverter and 25KWh of batteries. The batteries covers the time 17-07 and are down to 25% at sunrise, then I usually have enough panel power between 07-08 to start charging them again while at the same time produce enough for the house consumption. Batteries are usually full right after midday.  Then comes the rainy season and make havoc of all your plans and calculations...

Sometimes god punish immediately

15 hours ago, beatlebones said:

How long from retirement extension submission to when you can return to pickup the stamped passport ?

Sometimes immediately, sometimes a day or two later. It all depends on how many applications they have in the pipeline and when the big boss approving them is in the office.

15 hours ago, norbra said:

Please provide OP with a copy of relevant certificate that Samui imm require.

There is a thread for it..

https://aseannow.com/topic/1102143-an-idiots-guide-to-the-retirement-extension-process-at-samui-immigration-office/page/9/

On 9/28/2023 at 8:25 AM, Crossy said:

And under/over voltage protection.

Very important, you can under certain occasions get very low phase voltage(s) that can destroy your water pump motor or fridge/aircon compressors. They are available for DIN-rail mounting in either 1-phase or 3-phase versions.

I'd recommend to use 3 of the 1-phase versions instead of the 3-phase version which will disconnect all 3 phases when there is a problem only on a single phase. The 1-phase versions will only disconnect the problematic phase.

24 minutes ago, Crossy said:

EDIT This diagram may help, note that it's for 230V phase-neutral but you should get the idea.

Thailand has jacked up the transformer output voltage to 230V/400V where I live, I guess to follow which is becoming a global standard.

Europe has had it for decades.

57 minutes ago, Muhendis said:

Reasoning is that my house is completely solar powered but if batteries are too low at night then inverter will switch off 'till batteries are good again and ATS will switch over to GEC.

There's our difference, if my batteries are too low at night then the inverter will use the grid instead until battery got enough charge from the panels in the morning.

My ATS is a switch between on-grid and off-grid modes and switches only at grid blackout.

14 hours ago, Muhendis said:

I always switch over on my ATS to GEC (Greedy Electric Company) when milling.

That's my default ATS input position (A, grid) and there the inverter will produce as much as the house consumes up to the inverter limit after which any additional power needed is taken from the grid.

The other ATS input (B) is the backup load output from the inverter.

When there is power available on both A and B inputs then input A has priority.

This is my curve for today, I have set the time frame between midnight and 04.00 to not go below 35% SOC so you can see that happen around 02.30 followed by 1.5 hour of grid usage. From 0400 - 0800 I allow the SOC to drop to 15% and that takes me to 07.30/08.00 without using any more from the grid.

Today was a good solar day so I fed some into the grid to compensate ???? for the absence of sun tomorrow, we are expecting at least one non-productive day after a thunderstorm arriving tonight.

3 minutes ago, Pink7 said:

I have very few days to refer too but charge current most of the time 20-30A.

So around 0.1c

4 minutes ago, Pink7 said:

Charge time have been 4-6 hours.

ok so you only use around half of battery capacity before charging again.

I have 5x5KWh (500Ah)  of stacked batteries which is barely enough to take me through from 17 to 07 at which time I charge with whatever the panels can deliver up to a max of 150A which is equal to 0.3c

The batteries are then under best condition fully charged around noon, sometimes not until 16 or  some dark days not fully charged at all.  They are charged with 57.6V and steps down in charge current when they reach 98% SOC where after they get trickle charged with 5A dropping down to a few hundred milliamps while climbing up to 100% SOC.

The deviation between the cells is typical around 20-25mV at 100% SOC and that is good enough for me.

13 minutes ago, Pink7 said:

Done some small adjustments on JKBMS settings and reduced Growatt charge voltage to 55v  and now it charge in a better way and very less volt difference between the cell.

How high is your charge current when charging at such low voltage? How long time to fully charge the battery?

1 hour ago, Lazybones said:

If you have a black out then your inverter won't work so solar is not much use.

Mine does.

On 10/4/2023 at 8:42 AM, parallaxtech said:

We are getting blackouts on Chaweng Mountain every week for up to four hours. 

I live at the foot of said mountain and have got those weekly blackouts for over 20 years, it is usually a high-voltage fuse that has blown and the PEA guys are always slow to come and replace it.  I finally opted for installing solar, mainly to get a very high monthly bill down (big extended family, many aircons) but also to use as a big UPS.

I probably would have bought one of those portable thingydingies if we didn't have a high energy consumption.

On 10/3/2023 at 3:04 PM, GammaGlobulin said:

PLEASE NOTE:  It is conceivable that, upon reaching the Japan countryside, I may be able to do a bit of multiplication

You should start with the 17 table, it is good training for the brain

17 minutes ago, Pink7 said:

The question is if its normal or not for the batteries to struggle to get over 3.35v?

3.35V (53.6V)  is 100% SOC (at least on my batteries)  they are currently at 53.1V or 97% SOC but I have also seen them at 55.2V. 

I'm using Seplos BMS's which are set for a max charging voltage of 57.6V which the BMS has told my Deye inverter to provide. Maybe you need to raise the charging voltage?

Anyway, don't charge or discharge when balancing, it takes forever to get balance if the there is additional current flowing through the cells when balancing. 

Your JK BMS has a good balancer compared to the ones (passive, low current) in my Seplos BMS's.

21 hours ago, Pink7 said:

Now i understand why active balancing only at the end of the charge is discussed. I had set my JK BMS to start balance from dc 3.45v as in this video but ended up with deviation of dc 0.2xx v who took much time to get balanced back and I feel it messed up the charge process and I also guess its ineffective. Now i have change my settings and try balance from  dc 3.3v tomorrow. Lets hope thats a better and smoother way of charge.

 

Most important is to not balance while charging. A balancers algorithm is based on measuring cell voltages which must be quite stable or the algorithm fails. Cell voltages are not stable enough during charging, they vary a lot.

2 hours ago, Crossy said:

BUT Your RCD/RCBO is an electro-mechanical device, they can and do fail

Make up your mind, you said in a previous post that  RCDs or RCBOs works just fine with multiple earth or no earth at all.. ????

It is fine to have  double protection but then make sure that the earth wire is not just a flimsy convenience earth wire for tripping an RCBO, it should be a real Protective Earth (PE) wire for which there are requirements not relying on an RCBO being present.

40 minutes ago, MJCM said:

Would 2x0.5mm² x 20-25m be good enough to test the NEW CT or should I go 2x1mm² ?

I'd go for 2x1.0mm² because the voltage from the CT is quite low and the cable is long, even a few mV of drop will give the inverter a flawed export result.

On 9/23/2023 at 12:00 PM, Muhendis said:

Depending on the setting of the sensitivity of this device the RCBO will trip if a current of 30milliamps to 10 milliamps is flowing more in one wire than the other.

This minute current can flow through a body and cause the RCBO to trip thus disconnecting power before harm is done. Earth is not needed for this. The person who contacts the faulty equipment is quite likely grounded enough.

Right, but if earth was connected to that equipment then the RCBO would have tripped without a person touching it.

That's basically all you gain by having an earthed system when you are already protected by an RCBO, the earth cable can in this case be small since it only has to handle 30mA.

7 hours ago, Crossy said:

the other two are drilled and tapped M4 with crimped lugs on the sense wires.

That's the right way to do it.