Formaleins

Had a few issues lately, sadly none of them seem to have been treated properly, almost seemed like money came before cure. Unfortunately I seem to have developed a problem in one of my legs and it is driving me crazy. I have always been pretty fit and was a cross country runner earlier in my life, I always walked everywhere, could walk miles in a day no problem. In about 2010 on a visit back to the UK I noticed I was not walking up hills as well as I used to and was getting a sort of muscle cramp in one of my legs. It would cramp at my foot, then it would be in the calf and then in the thigh and buttock. I put it down to old age, but it is only one leg. Over the last few years the affected leg has got worse and worse, I get severe pains in my calf and thigh as well as behind my knee when walking - I can cycle 30 KM no problem, it is only walking that causes the pain, to the point that it is almost crippling and I have to stop for ten minutes until the pain subsides. It is so bad at the moment that even just standing on an uneven surface will set the bad leg off into severe muscle pain. It feels like muscle rather than bone. it begins in the calf and travels down to my foot and up to my buttock. it isn't a cramp, but s terrible ache. I did read that it looks like symptoms of blocked veins or not enough blood getting to the muscle, which makes sense as I have high blood pressure and hardening of the arteries through years of being a Non Vegan.. Problem is when I asked for help from my local hospital, they told me I probably banged my leg and prescribed some 500 mg paracetamol. - I know when I bang my leg, this is not a banged leg, there is something wrong inside. As I said, I used to walk everywhere and loved walking and running, but this thing is killing me, I cannot even walk 100 metres without terrible pain, it gets even worse if I have to raise the leg during a walk rather than dragging it, does anyone know any doctors or clinics / hospitals that can seriously look at this problem as it really is ruining whatever time I have left. Thanks! appreciated. If Eastenders is still on the TV, I might try and go to see Doctor Legg!

Thanks, so can the bar/chain combination be swapped or not?

Wonder if anyone can answer this query for me regarding chainsaws, bars and chains? I recently wrote off my old Husqvarna saw and am buying a new Stihl. The new saw comes with a 3/8" pitch chain with a 0.63" gauge bar / chain combination. I have my original Stihl bar which is also a 3/8" pitch, but has a 0.050" gauge bar / chain. Am I correct in thinking that as long as the pitch is the same that matches the sprocket, I can change between the two bar chain combinations. From what I can gather, as long as the pitch is the same, then the bar / chain combination can be swapped out as long as the gauge of the bar matches the chain. The other question is, would there be a chance that using the smaller gauge chain on the much more powerful (5.4 HP) that the chain might snap? Thanks!

Good for Thailand! Make a bit of a stand against this phony war, pursued by the Neocons and cretins of the Biden administration, war mongering imbeciles who have lost most of their credibility on the world stage, but backed by the despotic unelected, undemocratic sheep of the floundering mess that is the EU!

Pardon my ignorance but I wonder if anyone can pitch in here regarding my son's car? It is a 2008 Honda Civic, it has just been driven through some flood water, probably up to the bottom of the doors. Engine was running a bit rough during the drive in the flood but seems fine now. Blew a fuse and he lost his number plate. I was just wondering if there are any points on the car that need to be greased or lubricated after going through deep water, as I know nothing about these cars whatsoever. I have a Toyota truck and I know that I need to grease the propshaft and any of the ball joints after flooding, but as far as a Civic goes, any tips? Thanks.

I think it would be so much more fitting to charge potential tourists 1 million Baht entry fee, just to make sure they weed out the scum.

If it turns out that the truck is as good as what I think it is, I will be keeping it, it will last longer than me! My biggest worry is finding someone to trust to do the job properly first time around. I do not want to be back and forward trying to get bad work fixed, I 99% trust my local Toyota dealer, he has never ripped me off in more than 20 years, so if it turns out that this is the real price, and handing it to someone I trust, then it will be Toyota - my local, not the ones at Niyom in the city who are rip off merchants

Problem here is getting someone you trust to do the job properly, I have seen loads of these repair shops that are almost open air and totally filthy, I wouldn't let them clean my toilet let alone let them loose on an engine - you can just imagine it coming back with bits missing, bolts loose. I had a repair done years ago here (from people that came "highly recommended" when I was driving back after collecting the truck there was a loud thumping noise - they had forgot to put the tension bolt on the power steering pulley and it was just flopping all over the place)

I was looking for some bits and bobs for my truck, all of which are proving difficult to find, the first is a genuine two piece Toyota Champ / Vigo grille - I tried the big resellers across in town and all they can offer is these Chinese one piece plastic pieces of junk (which I already have fitted) - I tried Toyota and they laughed me out of the place quoting almost 11,000 Baht for the 2 piece grille, they thought I was insane! So anyone know of any breakers where I might get a second hand grille - (not that place near the 106 Lamphun road, those idiots are breaking cars daily but keep trying to sell me plastic <deleted> for 800 Baht.) The second item, and the most worrying, is a new set of injectors, I found some OEM Denso's but they are priced at 25,000 Baht each! Is this for real? Is this the price we have to pay for this Commonrail tech? Someone must know some honest breakers that offer a few bits at a fair price,

The level of the English language on this site makes me think you are all Germans!

"Someday a real rain will come and wash all this scum off the streets."

Just remember. every penny counts, Penny wise, pound foolish.

Here we go again, the never ending saga! The money all of this scare mongering has generated / cost / turned over must be almost the GDP of the country - Probably better we just commit suicide now and be done with it!

She was 14, legal age is 15. I'm not splitting hairs over a few months. More than likely due to messing on with those damn phones! Terrible shame at the end of the day.

Hah hah ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha.......forgive me while I pick my head up and apply some stitches to my sides, I hear Raffles has booked his flight already. Unsurprising they only want quality tourists though as they can't even manage their home grown criminal fraternity! I think Thailand needs to attract more varied entertainment too, it is full of circus's and an overwhelming alley of clowns.

So what? Simple, Plod gets up off his <deleted>, drives down there and beats them senseless, I mean arrests or warns them. Not too difficult really is it now?

Just a quick update - EZout was drilled jamming plier jaws in between the shroud and the bolt - didn't work, after about 1\2" in it just spun. As 1Fnicky1 mentioned - Toyota, well we tried another repair shop local to me, absolutely clueless so we took a chance and went to local Toyota - I must admit I thought they would not even look at trying to repair it and half expected to be told they would just fit a new axle housing. How wrong I was! They said they had seen it all before and that if I left the truck they had sub contract mechanics that came by with all their own specialist kit and that they carried out all of these nasty jobs on behalf of Toyota (My local Toyota cannot even balance a wheel or do front end alignment work as they do not have the tools) Anyway, it cost me 2000 Baht to cut out the bolt and redo the threads, another 500 for the new Diff. oil and it was done in two days! Boy was I a happy bunny! Turns out that not only did the original idiots over torque the drain bolt, they even fitted the wring bolt, from what Toyota explained, it looks like they had driven in a 1.0 pitch bolt instead of a 1.25 (or the other way round) Sd it happens they saved the tapped bolt hole (They were going to re-tap it oversize if need be) cleaned up the thread damage and fitted a new standard size plug, so all is well! I was dreading this repair as I really thought they were going to have to pull the Diff. Anyway, thanks for all of the great suggestions, lots to keep in mind for future motoring fun. Cheers!

The bolt is inside a shroud, the biggest thing I can grip it with is a pair of 200mm pliers. Mole grips, pipe wrenches just do not have enough room to get the jaws in. I have used the helicoil system before and it works well, certainly worth considering once I get this bolt out. You are correct too about the stripping, the truck had been taken to B-Quick tp have the fluids replaced on the day I bought it - Bquick had used a windy gun to do up the bolts and when I tried to break it free it just stripped out. Apparently, they used the same windy gun on this drain bolt as they used on my wheel nuts! It took a two metre bar to loosen the damn lug nuts - unbelievable.

Thanks for that, going to try an EZout this morning, if that proves no good I am off to find someone with a welder - Almost suffocating holding my breath just hoping it is the bolt and not the casing threads that are stripped. Thanks for your help, appreciated.

Thanks! They are very interesting, will try that place in Hang Dong, it isn't that far from me. Appreciated! Just got to get the damn drain plug out first, I have a couple of things to try, Ezyouts, 24mm open ended and if none of that works it looks like the half shafts will have to come out, propshaft off and pull the diff! The joy of motoring!

There is no room to get anything in if you use a socket, the bolt head has a walled surround that shrouds the head of the bolt. I cannot even get mole grips on to it, the best I managed was a big pair of pliers but I just cannot get enough leverage. I am going to buy a 24mm open ended spanner tomorrow (23mm is my biggest as luck would have it) I might be able to get something in there with a spanner. Thanks for the suggestions! I might have a look at grinding the shroud off as that would give better access, but will leave the bolt head vulnerable

Thanks, worth a try anyway!

I have a bit of a problem with my Hilux, the rear diff. plug has stripped and the plug will no longer tighten nor can it be removed, just sits there spinning. I guess I don't have many choices but as I am not 100% confident in pulling the diff out on my own I thought maybe a good repair shop might be able to remove the plug and possibly weld it over and drill and tap it out. I do not think that there will be much in the way of 24-26mm helicoil inserts. These Toyotas do not have a diff. cover plate on the back, it looks like the half shafts need pulling out and the entire diff. pulled out from the front which means dropping the prop shaft too. Anyone had this type of work done here before? The only other two options would be to weld the drain plug in and use a syringe to replace the oil. or see if there is a decent back axle available at a scrap yard - So if anyone knows where to get 2nd hand rear axles from it might be useful, thanks!

You don't hive any reason for rejection, but I was recently rejected due to the time from my 90 day report until the expiry of my extension to stay (I think it was less than three months) all I did was "Make a genuine mistake" with the date of my expiry of extension to stay - I think I used 9 months, and hey presto, worked a treat - you can then correct it after you update / renew your yearly extension.

Indeed! In the UK you had to make a declaration after practice, somewhere on the lines of not having live rounds or spent ammo - every empty case and round had to be accounted for