Nienke

what is FIV>?

FIV = Feline Immunodeficiency Virus. It's a retrovirus and related to the AIDS virus in humans (HIV). An infected cat can not give this virus to humans, however! The two viruses are species specific.

Infection is highest in outdoor cats. Cat bites are the major cause of infection.

Signs of illness:

4 to 6 weeks after exposure the cat can show fever and swelling of the lymph nodes and a lower White Blood Count than normal. Diarrhea, skin infections and anemia can occur.

After this acute phase, there can be a intermediate period that can last for up to 3 years with no specific symptoms.

After this period signs of the chronic stage appear gradually and progresss slowly, which again can take months or years.

The chronic stage symptoms are similar to diseases such as leukemia, severe malnutrition, immunosuppressive drug therapy and wide spread cancer, including, recurrent upper respiratory infections with eye and nasal discharge, recurrent urinary tract infections, loss of appetite, weight loss, fever, diarrhea, mouth and gum diseases.

There are test that can look for antibodies against FIV.

An infected cat is a source of infection to othet cats. This is something that needs to be kept in mind, when an infected FIW cat is allowed to go outdoor.

There is no effective treatment against FIV, other than boosting the immune system by providing the cat with the best nutrititious diet there is and avoiding further combined vaccinations and other kinds of stress for the cat's physical and mental health.

There is no vaccine available for FIV.

The research for looking for effective drugs against HIV involves cats. It might with the improvement in finding effective drugs for HIV, in future there will be effective drugs for FIV for cats as well. Nevertheless, that doesn't help the currently infected cats much.

Nienke

Had a similar scare in Thailand in 2004 or so with Pedigree dry food.

Maybe best to cook your own. It's easy and cheap if you buy meat from the market.

I remember bringing back "treats" from the west for my Thai dogs: they refused it and looked at me as if to say "where's the beef?"

That canned stuff is just processed crap. Seriously, cook from fresh in the rice cooker or give raw.

Good advice. Has any one actually heard of a Pet suffering as a result of eating Pet Food of any kind purchased here in Thailand?

I see it almost on a daily basis at my boarding kennel. The worst the petfood the worst the more the problems.

I prefer to prepare the food myself. I give raw, but some my scare this of and prefer cooked. When you prepare the food yourself, at least you know what you are giving. Worrying about if the food is in the right balance and complete in its nutrients, is only something that is brainwashed in our minds by the ones who want to sell their products.

100% complete is even not possible as we don't know 100% complete about all existing nutrients. There are still minerals we don't know (enough) about.

And do we worry whether the food we prepare for ourselves (something I never do, I HATE cooking. In this Thailand is paradise and my maid an angel from heaven) is balanced and complete each meal? No, we don't. But we are aware of the fact what kind of nutrients we need and will balance this out over the several meals in a week: alittle milk, a little veggies, a little fruit, meat (if you aren't a vegetarian) nuts, bread, rice etc etc.

Variety and moderation are the keywords.

Did you know that htere has ben a recall of beef products for human consumption also? I think it was in California, but am not sure. Also the pigs are at stake. After all, what do they do with the grains that did not make it to the petfood? You just give it to the pigs. And then eat the pig yourself ....

Yesterday, I ate my own grown Phak Kana. There is really a difference in taste, delicious!

Nienke

I Pattaya yesterday it was scorching hot, probably the hottest day of the year yet.

I went to my local bar/restaurant yesterday and found a friend of mine in a very distressed state.

He is the owner and had some stuff to sort out in the kitchens. Thinking he'd only be 5 minutes, he left his 6 month old Bang Kaew (sp) in the car with 2 windows slightly open.

He reckons he was gone 20-30 minutes and when he went to the car the dog was dead

Other people confirmed that the windows were slightly open and that he wasn't away for more than 30 mins.

Before you all slate him for what he did, don't bother, he learnt a very painful lesson.

Let this be a warning to all of us, don't leave your pets in cars

Sorry about your friend, he must feel very very horrible.

Even in Thailand's windertime it isn't wise to leave your animal (or kid) in the car, as during the day it still can become too hot. During this time of year, only 5 minutes can already do a lot of damage. Something I realize each time I step into my car, it's like an oven despite the slightly opened windows .... Parking in the shade makes so far the difference between a very very hot oven and a less very hot oven.

Nienke

Thanks SO much ladies! Ironically as soon as I posted this, she got a wee bit better. but there still is a little discharge so I'll give the cream a try and watch her closely.

She did have a fever and / flu last week, but she is back to her ol' kitty self now. Are there different signs for the cat flu you speak of?

Would it be safe to give her the booster shots now ? or should I wait until it's ALL cleared up?

Kindly,

HH and Miss Lulu

NEVER EVER vaccinate when the immune system is down. In other words, better wait untill your cat is perfectly healthy again,

Nienke

great advice nienke!

as for ringworm ketonazole helps also, but the natural ways you described are surely better!

for raw meat: you can see the difference in raw fed dogs! teeth, coat, immunity - everything improves! even my 4 weeks old handraised puppies run mad for raw beef tartar and leave anything else untouched! good is also raw egg yolk, cooked fish. for adult dogs give rather meaty bones like chicken carcasses. you will see the difference in your cocker!! never had worm from raw meat either in my dogs, the 2 monthly invermec doses kill any worms too and for tapeworm you would see the moving things on their poo if there were any...

flax oil and vitamin c and b also recommended.

ketaconazole is the broad-spectrum anti fungi med I was talking about. it can be immuno supressive when given too long, and that's what they often prescribe here in CM.

The most common side effects are nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. These may be reduced by giving ketoconazole with food or by dividing the dose into several smaller doses. If nausea is severe, it should resolve with discontinuation of the medication.

At higher doses or in certain individuals, liver disease can result from administration but this should resolve with discontinuation of the medication. This is usually a problem for cats rather than dogs.

Some individuals will show a lightening of the hair coat while taking ketoconazole. This effect reverses with discontinuation of the medication.

Ketoconazole interferes with testicular secretion of testosterone and may produce a feminizing effect in males.

CONCERNS AND CAUTIONS

Ketoconazole is best not used in breeding male animals due to its feminization effect. It is also best avoided in patients with pre-existing liver disease or with decreased platelet (blood clotting cell) levels.

Ketoconazole has potential to cause birth defects.

When ketoconazole therapy will continue for months at a time, veterinarians should monitor liver enzymes and complete blood counts. This is not necessary when medication is used for only a few weeks.

In my opinion, if I can solve the problem with natural stuff, i rather do that. But if not, then broad-spectrum anti-funi med's in combination with topical natural stuff and, when possible supported by homeopathic med's

Nienke

A devoted cat lover who has never much cared for dogs, I am about to acquire a Chihuahua....security problems at home (mentally disturbed man in next village over keeps trying to get into the house when I'm home alone) necessitate a watchdog and my adopted Cambodian family recently rescued a Chihuahua from being eaten by a Vietnamese neighbor. They can't safely keep him as their neighborhood has a lot of Vietnamese and they've had numerous dogs abducted by them for eating (seriously). So he'll soon be brought to the border and become mine.

Now I realize that given as the need is for security a Chihuhua may seem ludicrous, but he has a good bark and is very alert, and as a cat rather than a dog person I can warm to a little dog much easier than a big one.

Anyhow -- I know lots about caring for cats but zilch about dogs. Can anyone out there advise me on how Chihuahuas do in Thailand, and any special tips on their care?

I read on one website to be very careful about anesthesia, which has me worried because he will need to be neutered and I'm not sure I can trust the local vet to know anything specific to the breed...Chihuahuas are not exactly common in rural Thailand...

Hhmm, you can better have a couple of Chihuahua's than one rottweiler. They're like phiranya's once they get started.

I've seen a few Chihuahuas. It depends how you treat the dog. if you lift it every time that YOU think there is something that might scare your dog, than for sure you end up with a shaky-shaky barks and bites at everything and nothing dog. If you treat it as if a big dog, you can have very nice little handbag dogs, that you can take with you where ever you go.

The only thing that to my knowledge is the most vulnerable in this breed are their bulging eyes. Furhter, I treat and care for small dogs pretty much the same as I do for big ones.

Nienke

My cats have been here nearly 5 months now and generally are in good health, the older (fatter) one has lost some weight, (which is good) although not significantly, his appetite has not withered though.

He has however been getting into some tussles with the local thai mafia feline fraternity and as such has suffered some bites/scratches around his chest/neck area causing significant loss of hair. I have been keeping them both inside the last few days to give these scratches a chance to heal.

I have noticed that they are both scratching and grooming themselves more frequently, Having brushed them I can find no evidence of fleas/ticks, there may be eggs but im not sure... but I did see 3 flea-type thingys floating in their water bowl this morning.

From being here this long I am sure they need some sort of booster for both health and flea/tick prevention - so someone advise , thanks in advance

I don't want to make you scared, but be aware that there is a lot of FIV and leukaemia (how do you write that?)under the cats that roam the streets.

Nienke

Hi Bambina,

But what in case the cornea has been damaged a little? What can we do then? Terramycin oinment? Or is it much better to visit the vet in such a case. After all, we are talking about eyes, here. Bbrrr.

Nienke

In corneal ulcer case ..

1)antibioty ointment /drop

2)escape using eye drop which has steroid as ingredient (make bigger ulcer )

3)healing promoter agent,such as solcoseryl eye gel or cyclosporin solution is helpful

Thanks Bambina, for the answer,

Nienke

Very sorry about your loss.

Also concerned that if they overdose a bird to that degree, might they also be overdosing other amimals? Think I will not take any pets there.

The unfortunate question is WHERE can you go?

From this animal hospital I've heard more fatal stories, but also ones where they saved lifes. A couple of years ago a customer lost both dogs in this hospital, which he brought from his home country, within 24 hours. Wrong med's or over-dosis (can't recall).

Years ago I brought a pup to a vet that had a cough together with a dog with swollen glands in the paws. The swollen lumbs were seen as abcesses and about the coughing pup the vet told me to come back another time, as he was now treating the other dog. It turned out (too late) that both dogs had distemper. As a result 6 dogs died within one month.

At another vet I brought a very sick puppy early morning but within opening times. The vet wasn't in yet. When the assistent called him, he was too busy jogging, while he knew how sick the puppy was and how much treatment it needed. The pup died the same day.

Again another vet found it necessary to stuff three pups (same owner) full with vaccines (7 !!!! jabs before they reached the age of 4 months). Two of the three pups ended up with distemper from the jabs!

And again another vet told the owner that the dog had heartworm and needed treatment. When this person brought the dog to another vet and did a test that looks for antibodies, it turned out the dog did not had any antibodies against heartworm. So, did or didn't the first vt treat against heartworm. We'll never know, but it certainly was in the bill.

Just recently an adult dog died due to a side-effect of the yearly combined vaccine booster, given together with a 3 months dose heartworm prevention. 3 days after the jabs the dog fell ill, both his liver and kidney went basurk. According to the vet antibiotic and steroids were necessary, despite a liver (SGPT) that changed each day from below 5 (the measurement machine couldn't even handle how much below 5) to over 300, back to below 5 and then to 700 (normal range should be below 89). Can you imagine that the dog almost crawled into me when receiving the last treatment over there. He knew the treatment did more harm than good. The next night he died of liver failure. And the vet's still don't want to admit that combined vaccines can have very serious side-effects, plus that yearly boosters are NOT necessary, most vaccines give years of protection if not life-time. This dog was perfectly healthy before the jabs.

And just today I found out that the vet that I normally visit nowadays, injects med's while giving me the wrong information and without my permission!

Am I frustrated? SURE I AM! But I try to keep my chai yin yin, as screaming yelling kicking doors don't really help, anyway. Think I need a hubby

I'm really sorry about this so unnecessary loss, P1P. Another horror story to the list of many,

Nienke

Nienke, Isn't there a risk of intestinal worms from raw meat? I've always been wary of raw meat, because of that. I'm sure Burt (Cocker's name) would love it, though! Also, how do you get them to take the garlic & honey? Do they actually like the taste?

BambinA, where can you buy the seeds of the custard apple?

Thanks for the advice everyone - lots of new things to try!

HI NR,

Your fear of worms is very general under those who are not yet known with the raw diet Pretty much everybody starts of with this fear, and the fear of their dogs (and cats) eating bones. I was no exception.

I give raw to my dogs for the last 6 to 7 year and I never had problems with worms. That is because the digestive system of a carnivore (and a dog is a carnivore) is different form us. Through adding garlic, pumpkins seeds, papaya seeds and coconut (all in limited amounts) you make the environment in the intestines unpleasant for the worms. You can give, if preferred, once in a while a cure of those ingredients.

Having worms in the intestines is not a big deal, as long as there aren't too many. In fact, having a few worms triggers the immune system. A healthy immune system keeps the worms in check. By providing a raw diet you all nutrients in its natural form which is easily absorbed by the animal.

What you can do, before switching over, is become a member of the raw feeding list: [email protected] Loads of info there with people who feed raw for decennia. They can and will tell you all about it

As for the garlic and honey. I just put one kilo of garlic through the blender; some water, garlic, honey and blend-blend-blend. This blend you mix with barley powder or oatmeal. !/2 tsp, you give as if giving a pill, on the back of his tongue, then push it in his throat. If he tends to close his mouth when your finger is still in, you can push his lips over his teeth with your other hand.

Hope this helps. Wish you good luck,

Nienke

From these signs Conjunctivitis, discharge from the eyes, swallen eyes and tearing ..You'd be concerned about Upper respiratory tract infection in cat - Cat flu

For eye ointment

you can use something likes Nienke posted

or Chloramphenicol eye ointment (2-3 times a days)

or gentamycin eye drop (every 2-3 hrs)

Hi Bambina,

But what in case the cornea has been damaged a little? What can we do then? Terramycin oinment? Or is it much better to visit the vet in such a case. After all, we are talking about eyes, here. Bbrrr.

Nienke

Alternative way - Herb >> Noi Na น้อยหน่า /Custard Apple 's seeds of Leaves

From past many Thais have used it for against lice in human . From the reserch it works well with animal aswell.

1 Grinded Noi Na's seeds with vegetable oil such as coconut oil then apply the solution on animal for 1-2 hrs.Rinse it later

2 Grinded Noi Na's leaves with vegetable oil such as coconut oil then apply the solution on animal for 1-2 hrs.Rinse it later

3 Grinded Noi Na's seed as powder. Then Mix it with 10%alcohol solution (70% rubbing alcohol 1:water7) and left if for 24 hr

- propotion Noi Na's seed as powder :10%alcohol solution =1:2

Filter this solution (let's Sol.A)

HOW TO USE

1)1st week >>> Use Sol.A +10% alcohol solution = 1:6 spray on dogs (It can also kill ticks,mites)

2)2nd week >>> Usa Sol.A +10% alcohol solution =1:300 spray on dogs

repeat it every week for 8-16wks

NOTE

1 Noi Na has about 36 seeds that you can make Sol.A for 7 cc

when u mixed with 10% alcohol (as 1:300) you will get all solution about 2.1L.

2) U can keep this solution in the fridge for 3 years ( but the fresher is the better)

3) in Noi Na 's seeds and leaves has alkaloids "Anonaine" that can kill lices ,ticks and mites

ANYWAY...According to your situation, you have to takecare many dogs.If i were you ,I'd head to the althernative therapy as herb .. as the(3)

Great info, Bambina. Didn't know this. Thanks!

Nienke

Hi Nienke,

I was interested in a few things you wrote about. Firstly...

" I would switch immediately to a raw food diet and especially no grains at all anymore. "

I have a year old Rottie, and would like to feed him a raw food diet, what do you recommend, and do you have any recipes.

"Every day a bath in lemon rinse can treat fungi as well as anti-parasitic. Coconut oil with sulfur powder mixed in it also can do wonders against fungal infections and mange."

Secondly what amount of lemon juice, my Rottie is about 40 kilo's and suffers from fungal infections on and off which the vet can't treat...i.e lots of tablets with no benefit! Same for the coconut oil, how much and how much sulfur.

Thanks alot

Chubbly

Hi Chubbly,

As for the raw feeding I advice your to go to my profile and click on my website. Go to articles, where you find all the details on how to feed raw together with a schedule to start with. If you click on ‘links’ you’ll find some on raw feeding. Once you are more comfortable with feeding raw, you will see that you won’t keep strict with this schedule anymore. As long as you keep on providing the dog with a various diet, and not (as some people do) only chicken for example.

That your rottie doesn’t react to the loads of med’s can be: a. the treatment doesn’t do anything about the cause of the problems but only suppress and, thus, after a while the problems reoccurs, b. the environment hasn’t been properly disinfected.

Bleach can be used well against fungi, and/or c. the immune system of your dog is somehow down.

To help the immune system you can give the dog ginseng (30 mg dried herb per lb twice daily, or1 drop tincture per lb 2 times a day. Also Echinacea can help (1 drop tincture per lb 2 times a day).

Often only switching to raw food, and skipping to give all corn and wheat products can do wonders.

Garlic can be used internally, and externally for the treatment of ringworm (which is a fungi, not a worm).

Coconut oil/sulpher mix ½ tsp sulpher to 1 ounce of oil. This you massage into the skin. Good for your own hands as well. Once daily. According to Thai customers and friends, this seems to be another traditional treatment often applied.

Lemon rinse: 1 whole lemon (thinly sliced including the peel) to 1 pint almost boiling water. Steep overnight. The next day you can apply the solution to the skin with a towel or sponge and let it air-dry. Once daily.

Wish you good luck,

Nienke

My adolescent cat has received a good scratch to her eye and seems to have a slight infection. She still has a small gash very close to the socket. She has some discharge. Our vet is a 3-4-hour trip and I am wondering if I could possibly use some of my own antibiotic cream around her eye? Is this dangerous? Anything I should know? I have 3 different kinds of antibiotic creams, so if it were OK, what kind would work best?

BTW- she has been spayed – but she has NOT received her booster shots- we bought them, but they are in the fridge, we didn’t want to vaccinate her if she was ill.

Any comments are greatly appreciated.

Kindly, HH

What a beautiful cat on the picture!!!

I'm not too knowledgable on cats (Bambina can much better answer this question, I believe), and thus it is a bit risky, but this is what I found in my veterinarian book:

Conjunctivitis: Rinse the eye with boric acid. Then apply an ointment containing a combination of neomycin, bacitracin and polymyxin.

Check the eye for foreign bodies and if there's case of a corneal abrasion. In case of foreign body flush the eye in order to get it out. If the foreign body pentrates the eye itself, or there is damage to the eye, you need to have to go to the vet asap.

Hope this will be of some help,

Nienke

Having a dog center & bringing in new soi dogs, I'm really used to most types of parasite. Lice are one of my least favourite, as I always seem to end up crawling with them whenever we get a new dog & have to shower asap! They itch!

We have a really old Cocker Spaniel who has loads wrong with him: bilateral cataracts, yeast infections on skin (continual, we get rid of it & it comes back!), behavioural problems... Anyway, my son & I love him & he lives permanently at my home. But he keeps getting lice infestations & I have no idea where from. He doesn't go out for walks (too many soi dogs) just exercises in the garden. No real contact with new dogs, which I spray before they come in anyway. No other dogs get lice (we have a big tick problem, but not fleas or lice).

I bathe him with anti parasite shampoo & spray him when I see them & he gets Ivomec'ed about every 2 months, same as the others. He has stopped going to the grooming parlour as I thought he might be getting them there. How on earth does he keep getting them & how do I stop it?

Any advice gratefully received, as I just blitzed him for a new lot today. Thanks.

Hi NR,

Due to the many problems in this cocker, it sounds to me that his immune system is pretty down. Especially as the problems are re-occurring (meaning that the conventional med's do not work, but are only symptoms treating and donot go to the cause of the problem).

Therefore, the first thing I would do is start boosting his immune system, and if it would be my dog, I would switch immediately to a raw food diet and especially no grains at all anymore.

Then a cure with garlic, the natural antibiotic. For the cocker 3 times a day 1/2 a teaspoon of crushed raw garlic mixed with raw pure honey for a period of not more than 3 weeks. My GSD is on it at the moment. He has for years an skin allergy. Can't find the cause, although it did started shortly after he got his puppy vaccines. Since I started the cure his coat has become more shiny and softer, the biting and scratching has almost disppeared, and because of this he's fattening up as well. Not sure, after the cure is finished the problem will come back, as I don't know if I'm treating the cause. But for now I do know that the garlic cure is very beneficial to him.

Every day a bath in lemon rinse can treat fungi as well as anti-parasitic. conut oil with sulfur powder mixed in it also can do wonders against fungal infections and mange.

Fungi does not like acid, so ringworm and other fungal infections can be treated this lemon rinse or with a 50-50 base of vinegar and water. You can use the cheapest vinegar there is. It's even much cheaper than and safer than the broad-spectrum anti-fungal med's, which are on the longer term immuno-suppressive. And that's the very thing your cocker can't use.

As for the ivermectin: I read on the net that there is a high chance that heartguard is going to be taken from the market. The exact reason I don't know (didn't take the time to read it all), but I do know that an ingredient in heartguard is ivermectin. Ivermectin can give damage to the liver. As your dog isn't 100% already, I would try to find other, safer methods to treat him.

Hope this will be of some help to your cocker,

Nienke

Oh, and for his cataracts, soemtimes a drop of olive oil in each eye daily can be very beneficial.

you need a work permit for volunteer work as well.

Oh blast! Am I wrong there! Thought that for helping out a charity organization some hours a week you don't need a work permit as long as you don't get paid and it doesn't become more like a non-paid job.

Sorry, Eek, for giving you false hope. A bit naive of me maybe.

it must be about the treatment they get as youngsters from Thai males, he never chases Farangs.

mine never chase farangs either- only thais. i don't really have much sympathy for the thais.

thanks bina and nienke for your good advice!

You might start training (which should be ON-lead and NOT off-leash, which i typed wrong in my former post. Sorry about that) with farangs then. Because, then you have more chance on rewarding good behavior. Once the good behavior with approaching,and passing, farangs has rooted in, you can start with a Thai friend, then a Thai acquintance, etc. You need to ask friends to help you out in these training sessions.

Can you keep us updated on the progress. I would really appreciate that.

Nienke

Ahh...you know..totally slipped my mind about a work permit! How naive.

Thank you for the imput guys, much appreciated.

Also...please post if anyone else has further suggestions.

(If im perfectly honest, im a little tentative around dogs (yes i know..sounds stupid considering my thread title) thus in an ideal world i would very much like to get involved with a mixed animal santuary, or, if possible, with cats. In saying that if nothing else comes up I would bite the bullet on my dog concerns and look into helping where im most needed. Thanks so much again.)

I don't think for volunteer work (i.e. non-paid work) you need a work permit. Or, I must be very mistaken here, but you can even do volunteer work on a tourist visum, provided that you can only stay for 3 months and then have to leave the country for 3 months before you can return for another 3 months, etc.

Both Lanna Dog Rescue and Care for Dogs also rescue cats. Often mother cats with kittens. or kitttens alone when the mohter cat has died or disappeared. You might become a foster mom for them. I think they will welcome you with open arms.

Beside working directly with dogs and cats, they always are in need of people that help with activities such fund-raising, adoption programs (fall in the trap of adopting yourself Many end up with many dogs and/or cats, just by falling in love with them ), PR, collection of donations etc, etc.

I myself have helped Care for Dogs in making information brochures for the shelter (it's now in the process of translation, then the printing) and I take in a dog per month for training. For Lanna Dog Rescue I'm in he process of translating a Manual on how to build and run a shelter (with all the necessities and minimal needed measurements) according the Dutch Animal Protection. And I give advice when needed.

So, you see no direct fieldwork, just another kind of helping, that is my two cents I can offer.

Anyone know of animal rescue/santuary etc Volunteer opportunities in Chiang Mai? (that you dont have to pay to be a volunteer with!)

The only one that i could find on google is the elephant camp, but does anyone know of any others?

Many thanks.

Lanna Dog Rescue Mrs. Roshan: 053 212 810 (best to call in the early morning)

Care for Dogs Mrs. Karin: 081 907 3260, 081 603 6065

They always are in need of a helping hand.

Nienke

Ok! don't shoot the messanger, but there is another potential solution...see attached links. Am of the option that a combination of training and positive reinforcement is necessary, but shock treatment worked for Pavlov.

http://www.k9magazine.com/viewarticle.php?...id=0&npage=

http://search.store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/nsea...CFQ-Wbgod9GwtHw

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ivan_Pavlov

I'm not expressing an option on this, just offering it up as an option. Hopeful with a combination of some of the answers listed the solution may present itself.Chubbly

Hi there,

I'm happy you add this sentence.

E-collars are prohibited by law in the police dog training in Holland (not that everyone listens to this law unfortunately). This must have a reason!

E-collars are inhumane, especially when used by laymen. When not knowing how to use a device like that you can do great damage to the dog's psyche.

There are humane ways of solving the chase problem as mentioned in the OP, it only needs a lot of time, effort and above all patience.

nienke

i have sort of adopted (started feeding) 2 grown dogs who were previously street dogs. i had some problems with them early on (eating neighbors chickens/rabbits, dragging out trash, following me and starting fights in the neighborhood, etc.). most of those have resolved as they have become well fed and comfortable... the one problem i still have is that whenever a thai person drives into our soi, the dogs run after them growling and barking and chase them away. it scares the crap out of the thais and they have threatened to shoot the dogs. i have tried screaming at them, throwing rocks at them, etc. and nothing works so far. is there any other way to stop them that anyone knows of?

Hi girlx,

First of all, as is mentioned already, altering the dogs will not change the chase behavior as it is learned behavior. On the other hand, altering does prevent unwanted litters as your dogs are free to roam the street (if I understand it well. But I assume you are fully aware of that.) and it might cool the dogs down in their territorial behavior.

Solving chase behavior like this needs a lot of time, effort and patience (especially as they are adult dogs and probably have shown the behavior already longer than several weeks), during which to all costs any chase behavior should be prevented, meaning that these two dogs need to be penned, crated or chained up. In the confined area the dogs should not have any possibilty to show barrier frustration with passers-by or passing vehicles.

Then you need to gain strong off-lead non-physical leadership over both dogs through positive re-inforcement training and by adjusting your own behavior towards them, that is attention-giving goes on your terms only and in limited amounts. Furthermore, food petting or any other interaction will only be given after they have followed up a one-word (and said only once) command.

Once that is established, you can start re-conditioning this behavior. First off-lead you train for full attention for you when walking 'on heel', sit, down stay etc., when a car, motor-bike or person is on far distance. Always reward for good behavior, that is full attention for you. especially praise the dog into heaven, when he looks at the vehicle or person and then turns its attention back to you YES: Click-treat!!!! Big treat.

be aware of the border-line. This is the line that the dog still can handle, does the vehicle of person goes over this line the attention of the dog for you is gone. Keep on training untill the dog responses well at least 15 times in a row, but over a couple of training sessions. Then move the border-line a little towards the dog, this can be only 1 or 2 meter, or sometimes even less, depending on the dog. Step-by-little step you can have this border-line come closer and closer untill the vehicle can pass without the dog loosing its attention for you.

Always reward the dog for good behavior and reward many times. That can be every meter or every few seconds in the beginning. be carefull though, that you use the (preferable) food treat as a reward and not as a lure.

Wish you good luck,

nienke

Update:

most certanly physical after tail biting, itching and black spots.

The vet doubled anti-itching meds and gave cream to treat the underside of her tail.

Meds and cream improve situation, will need one week more to evaluate results.

Thanks to all.

I read it could be genetic behaviour in 4 to 6 months old puppets.

When given food she went agressive against her tail, possibly seeing competition....and then she started chasing her tail frequently.

I don't think she is bored, she has plenty of toys and I play and go walking in the rice fields with her.

Hi tartemptation,

That's not a nice problem you describe here.

Amputation of the tail is certainly not my first thought, as it is still unknown what exactly causes the tail chasing. I think a veterinarian who jumps so quickly to such a very drastic conclusion without giving the dog a full body check (blood test, tissue test, etc etc) does not work in the benefit of the dog (and the owner). And it is certainly not in favor of the well-being of the dog . If this problem is not physical, than amputation is not the solution at all. You even may end up with a dog that keeps on chasing an imaginary tail.

However, you are mentioning 'black spots'. This I find a bit a frightening remark, because one cause of black spots can be insufficient blood supply due to a circular problem, resulting in dying off of tissue. That's a serious problem, although I just read about a similar problem and there might be a cure for that in stead of amputation.

Anyway, what ever the cause, if the med's don't work really, I think its better to find another vet who is willing to check your dog more intensively.

To understand if it is a psychological problem, first all physical possibilities must be ruled out, such as ant, tick, other insect or grass seed that has irritated the skin, making the dog bite the tail in such an extent that a hotspot occurred. These spots are pretty painful and can itch. This results in more licking and biting. Are the black spots becoming bigger, is there case of necrosis around the black spots, is the wound open, is the possibility of maggots in the wound ruled out, etc?

It's important to understand where the dog is biting: on the tail onset, the tip of the tail, somewhere in the middle? And how the dog is biting: is it really chasing its tail (meaning going around in circles after the tail), or is it more biting and licking at a certain spot on the tail.

Are there specific times, when the dog shows this behavior? Does the dog shows the behavior only when you are around, or also when you are not around? What is the behavior of you and your wife (and/or care-takers) just before and after the dog shows this behavior? What is the frequency and the duration of the behavior?

What are your previous attempts to stop the behavior; veterinary treatment, punishment, distraction through play etc. And what is your reaction on the dog when this behavior occurs?

When did the dog receive the last vaccinations and when did the behavior start?

How easy or difficult is it to distract the dog when it shows this behavior?

How is its behavior when eating? Food protection/aggression?

A close-up picture of the wound (especially the black spots) can be of help, plus a pic or small VDO of the behavior when it occurs.

If you PM me with most detailed information, then I can see what I can do for you.

After all, a 4 months old little puppy should be happily and healthily a complete pain-in-the-butt to its owners with its lovely playfulness, chewing on shoes and destroying the garden and not showing any of this kind of behavior ... And Bankeaws can be very nice dogs! At the moment I have two in boarding and one mix, all absolutely lovely dogs and adored by their owners (and vice versa).

Nienke

Quite like Bucket & Turner as names (I'll just try not to think of the reason), Farma. Nienke - wow, lots to get through!

If you like I can make a copy and send it to you. It's a Dutch dictionary of names and a few pages are missing (dogs, you know ), but there are still lots of names you can use, i think.

Just send me your address etc, but it will after Songkran probably.

nienke

Hi sbk,

Did you already do a full check-up: blood test, liver, kidneys, X-rays of hips, spinal cord etc?

If it goes so fast then it is very possible there is an underlaying cause, probably in combination with the old age.

If there is problems with arthritis then giving red meat and rice wouldn't be my first choice. It can stimulate inflammation of the joints. Both for arthritis and spondylose homeopathic med's can be very beneficial as is a supplement of gucosamie adn chondroitin. Although, I've read that glucosame only works when in combination with magnesium (or was it manganese. always keep mixing up those two names). At the vet they sold a product called "Anthramine" which contained glucosamine with magnesium (or manganese). Assume that if it is available in Chiang Mai you also can get it in BKK.

Be carefull with supplementing calcium when you don't know if there is a lack. You can certainly over-dose with calcium, plus that too much calcium can interfere with other minerals such as the uptake of zink.

A vitamin-mineral supplement can be very beneficial for your dog. Or you can choose to give more veggies and less protein. Fish-oil can be beneficial but too much is also not advisable.

For his eye, you can put a drop of cod liver oil in it or olive oil everyday. It sometimes helps slowing down the process.

so far, my two cents,

Nienke

Has anyone any ideas for new names (within a theme, if possible; it's easier for me to remember)?

If I use your names, I'll let you know.

Thanks

BTW, all available for adoption!!!

from a dictionary of names:

aaron, abe, abel, abele abeline, abelia, abella, abellina, abelone, aberra, abia, abner, aby, abo, acco, achior, ada, adaja, adalina, adde, addy, adele, adelaida, adelina, adina, ado, aike, aida, alan, alec, alex, aldous, alema, aletta, alfons, alfred, alica, alinda, alisa, alma,

bab, babs, barbara, babet, badina, baldwin, baldwina, baltus, bambi, bane, bank, bape, babe, bardo, barke, baris, barney, barnes, barre, barro, bart, bertha, bartha, bartruid, barty, bea, be, beauty, bear, bella,belia, belinda, belle, bellina, benjo, banjo, bennet, benso, bent, benz, benzo, bep, berny, berry, bess, betty, billy, binno, bianca, blanch, bo, boi, boy, bonne, bonnie, boon, branca, brenda, britta, brian, bruno, bruna, bucco, buddy, buke, bunty, burt,

ceasar, cecilia, cissy, caia, caio, caja, cajo, caleb, cajus, camille, cameron. callista, cara, caro, carey, caresse, carin, carina, carita, carleen, carletta, carlo, carlos, carmel, carmen, carol, carry, cas, casper, cassy, cato, cazi, cebus, cecca, cecco, cecil, cecile, cedric, cees, celest, celesta, celestine, celia, celine, centa, centos, cephas, chaim, chaja, chana, chanan, chantal, charel, charis, mcharissa, charita, charles, charley, chef, cherie, cherry, cheryl, chien, chiquita, vhiron, chiara, chloe, chris, chrissy, christel, christy, cicero, cid, cindy, cinthia, ciska, cissy, cita, clair, clamor, clara, clarck, clarice, claude, claudetta, claudine, clemence, cleo, cleopatra, cliff, clive, clyde, co, coba, cobi, cobus, coco, collette, cola, colin, conan, conny, conrad, cora, cory, cosmo, cosmos, cosmas, cosimo, cosima, cuno, curtis, curley, cy, cyrril, cyro, cyrina, cyrus,

dave, dame, dawn, dadette, deam, dafina, dafne, dagmar, dago, dagobert, dagomar, dagowin, daisy, dajo, dali, dalia, damas, damia, damida, damien, dana, damy, dandy, daniel, dank, dante, danny, danse, daphne, darcey, datho, davida, dea, dean, debby, deddo, deddina, dede, dedier, dedo, dido, detmer, deidre, dela, delaja, delano, desmond, desire, desta, dewi, dexter, dezso, diana, diaz, dicky, dico, didda, diddo, didi, diego, dieu, dille, dilli, dina, dimona, dimka, dimitra, dinant, dinky, dion, dita, dixie, dobbe, docus, dobbe, dodo, dolf, dolly, dolfina, don, dona, donny, doreen, dorine, dorris, dot, douce, drina, duco, dudley, duke, dula, dulci, dulcia, duncan, dunja, duran, durand, durck, diva, duva, dwight, dylan, dymphe, dynah

Just to give you a start

Nienke