Nienke

Anyone knows where to buy a Saluki dog or Golden retriever in Thailand?

I would prefer a Saluki. I found a place near Ubon for a golden retriever, 5000 baht but Saluki is hard to find, I think.

We live in Korat...but can travel or pay for transportation.

Thanks.

Sebastien.

Hi,

I know that a few years ago there was a breeder showing Saluki in dog show in Bangkok. But don't know who where and when.

Best is to visit dog shows in and around Bangkok or ask the Kennel Club of Thailand www.kcthailand.com

Wish you good luck,

Nienke

Maybe he is still feeling the effect of the anaesthetic...............................

That's the cheerful thought for the day...

Hi,

I hope I provide you with some understanding on the situation with the folloing:

Dog A’s abnormal aggression is caused by his (initially dormant) insecurity about his social position within his pack. It is very possible that due to the growing up of the child (he started walking, may not sleep during the day anymore, etc), but it is also very possible that Dog A starts suffering old age defects such as eye sight going down, hearing getting worse, first pains from arthritis (that he doesn’t really show yet, as dogs/animals do not show pain very quickly or is his handicap starting to trouble him <quote> both have handicaps and would not be able to stand up against the streetdogs <unquote> ).

Therefore, closely observe Dog A: does he has slightly more difficulties with getting up or laying down, do you have the impression that he sometimes really does not hear you while before he did, are his eyes still bright and clear or is there a slight color change? But whatever the motivation, Dog A finds it necessary to re-establish his rank again.

Dogs insecure about their social status can show abnormal aggression even when the other dog doesn’t do anything or shows all signs of submission. They are ongoing busy with controlling their environment in order to get information from that environment about their social status by seeking continuous attention and by ‘forcing’ the other pack members to submit <quote> I have certain problems with dog 'A's alpha status, but it is not out of order, and he does get punished when over the top. He is extremely attached to me and the wife, always has been. Usually when i have to go working in some other country for a few days or weeks he hardly eats.<unquote>

Often other kinds of aggression can be recognized such as territorial aggression, re-directed aggression (at the fence with the neighbor dogs and when the first real fight occurred) possession aggression, food-possession aggression and/or sibling rivalry.

Aggressive behavior is NOT genetic, it is learned behavior. The dog has learned that by showing certain (aggressive) behavior he can control his environment, which has been reinforced each time when it was shown. <quote> We always had a slight problem with dog 'A' regarding his imagined alpha role over us. Unavoidable as we got him when he was already grown up (I do not agree with this last sentence. There are non-confrontational dog friendly ways that can be very clear towards the dog about your higher position over him ). I got him though towards a point where his behavior was acceptable. And, he is lovely around our son.<unquote>

Castration can be an option, but it can’t prevent nor solve dominance aggression. It can, however, be a helpful tool in a behavior modification therapy.

Before deciding to do such an irreversible thing, it is of uttermost importance to understand which male dog is really highest in rank. Because it has to be the LOWER rank that should be castrated!!!!! After all, it is the highest rank that has the right to reproduce. If you take away his reproduction tools, the dog automatically drops in status in the eyes of the other dog, but that does not mean that Dog A still wants to give up his position as most of it is learned behavior with increased fights as result both in frequency and intensity (I do not state that this will happen, only that this can happen).

As been written in the OP <quote> A month ago or so they have had another fight, again without any clear victor<unquote> I’m not sure whether Dog B hasn’t challenged Dog A status in subtle ways unnoticed by the owner (Dogs immediately notice if the other starts showing physical or mental problems, long before we notice them).

Advice:

• Have a full body check up of Dog A, making sure he is not suffering any physical problem.

• Prevent any circumstances that can trigger aggression or any other unacceptable behavior.

• NEVER let your child together when both dogs are in the same area. There is a very serious danger that your child may end up in between them. And your child’s face is approximately at the same height as the dogs’ mouths. Plus that you already have encounter re-directed aggression in Dog A. (be aware of the unnoticed split second!)

• NEVER let your child unsupervised with any of the dogs ever. (with all the respect, that is what you already do). Although, Dog A loves your child to pieces, your child is growing up and soon will fall under the normal pack hierarchy. Meaning, in the dog’s mind, your child by that time will have to follow the hierarchy rules. He may or may not face a point once where Dog A finds it his duty to correct your child for improper behavior (in his mind).

• NEVER punish any dog when fights have occurred. They may take this as you favor the other or may join you and help in punishing the other.

• Castration of the lower rank dog. Keeping them apart for a period of not less than 6 weeks and then slowly reintroduce them again.

• Household rules and regulations should be reinforced consistently by all (adult) human household members in a non-confrontational way. Only punishing certain behavior at certain moments does not solve the problem, and in some cases even increases aggression.

• Obedience train both dogs.

But to be honest, in a case like this with a viciously attacking dog and a small child involved and where the owners have unsufficient control over the dog (Not blaming anybody, just based on the information written in this thread), advice over the internet can be downright dangerous. Little, very important things can be easily overlooked by the owner and by the ones who (with all the good intention) give advice as nobody have actually seen the dogs with their human pack members interacting. Therefore, behavior modification therapy is advised with a certified dog behaviorist. If this is not possible, it may be seriously considered to rehome one of the dogs.

I wish you good luck,

Nienke

Thonglot Pet Hospital

Thank you Karen, but I feel that Thonglot is a considerable way from Oxford.

Good Luck

Moss

Great to hear you have a Chihauhau, absolute great pet.

There are excellent dog behaviorists in England.

nienke, u should start a good breeding program for pariah dogs, i saw some great looking muubaan dogs, all fitting the same standard, similar to the israeli canaan dogs ... with proper care, etc, they can be great dogs... unfortunately it seems all without exception carry demodac. mange... dint see one mange free dog anywhere, although several even had a very nice ridge left on their back.

maybe ill give up on goats and go for developing the muubaan breed

Hi Bina,

Thanks for the compliment, but there are already so many (pariah) dogs, that I rather stick to reaching out a helping hand to those that already are born and need help.

Although, I really would have liked to have had a descendent of my most beloved boxer. She most probably wouldn't have given me only one pup, and then ... ' what would have become of the others that I would not have kept?' That is always the question I ask myself and others: ' what will happen to the little ones that you help into this world? How far does the breeder's responsibility go for the well-being of the living beings that comes into this world? Does it stop with your own dog or does the responsibility goes further: the well-being of the puppies/kittens/foals/etc, and the young ones they get, etc. etc. (a short while ago, somebody asked me whether their female dog could breed with a male of the same breed that was in boarding with me. Beside the fact that such a thing is impossible without the permission of the owner, the female has hip displasia severe entropion in both eyes and generalized demodectic mange, and the male has also hip displasia and a misformed underjaw The answer was negative.)

Having seen and seeing so much misery under the pet animals, I'd rather refrain from any dog (or cat) breeding program.

Nienke

P.S. Hope you're doing a lot better than a while ago

Don't know the kennel name, but the owner's name is Edward and telephone nr. is 08 1294 3407

He does training as well. Don't know which method he uses, but my friends are definitely satisfied with the way this man treats the dogs.

Good luck, Nienke

Looks like i'm in my own in that case. Thanks for the help

Hi, just called friends of mine who bring their dog occasionally to a dog boarding hotel in Pattaya. it's run by an English guy. Not sure if he trains as well.

Unfortunately my friends will come back tonight from abroad. So, please have patience for some more days. Then i hope I can give you some good news.

Cheers, Nienke

For a women who knows what she wants, this is a no-brainer. If a man is carrying around "good girl/bad girl" prudishness, he is the wrong person to go to bed with. If you do have sex with such a hypocrite on the first date and he rejects you, you have lost nothing in the end except an illusion.

If a woman wants to communicate the idea that she is only interested in a serious relationship, then she should not become physically intimate until one has begun to develop (kissing doesn't count). If she doesn't care about that, then she should go for it whenever she wants to.

Can find myself in both opinions. And if you would like to know what the other sexe is thinking, you may rather wait a little with having sex.

Cute!!!

I will try my best to get all the Thai's involved.

sorry to hear what happened to your pet.

your thai neighbours may all feel genuinely sorry about what happened , but you may have difficulty in getting them involved in this.

its not their way to get involved.

but i wish you luck anyway. it would be nice to see some kind of a pressure group speak out and act against an unruly and disruptive member of your community.

I have a high ranking police brother in law. Just got off the phone with him. He is now calling

the head cop for this area. The folks here are very willing to help. There was enough poison

to kill many. I thought what if some kid even touched that stuuf in the road. Dead kid.

This person has got to get it. I'll keep you posted

That's what I always am thinking? What if a kid would have picked up the chicken leg? Not that I want to minimize the horror that happened to your dog and you.

I hope your brother in law can make this guy's life a bit difficult.

Do you know why this guy threw the poison?

Nienke

Our 10 month old female Chi' has just started barking indoors for no reason.

Has never done this previously, any ideas why?

More importantly, what is the best way of stopping it, without using any form of violence on a tiny dog.

Hope someone can help.

Moss

Hi there,

For solving the barking problem, you need first try to figure out when, where and under what circumstances she is barking. Dogs do not bark 'for no apparent reason'. That may seem to us initially, but usually if you observe well you will find out that the dog DOES bark at particular moments.

It is possible your dog is barking for attention or out of boredom. But it is also possible that something or somebody has freaked her out, when you were around or when you weren't there (such as firework, a cat or big bird in front of the window, or a kid teasing the animals). In the latter case it is more difficult to find out what exactly has made her barking. It is also possible that she is going to a second fear period. Then even change of furniture can scare the animal (did you notice any behavior change lately, such as she is less confident around certain things or at certain moments. Has there been a change in your household?).

Once you have found out when exactly she barks (what stimulate the barking and in what context) you can start working on the barking by, for example, distracting her and rewarding her for the moments she is quiet and/or ignores the stimulus (even when that is a split second).

In case her barking is attention seeking, completely ignmore her. Some dogs can be quiet stubborn in this, such as my most beloved Jacky , and then it will take some time before they have figures out that the barking has no success. (it took Jacky 2 weeks, of pretty much non-stop barking when there were people around.; Though, I must admit, it was more difficult to train my workers than to train Jacky. He just knew how to manipulate the workers )

Correcting through squirting water or any other correction method may work, when you are around. The possibility that the dog learns that 'you and spray bottle' is danger, and 'you and spray bottle not combined', or 'you're out of sight' is safe and thus green light for barking, is quite high. In other words, with this method you are symptom treating, and not treating the cause.

Oh, and reading through the mails again. You mention that she was in heat about a month ago and then mated. For this she received injections. Another possibility is that she is not feeling well, what can have an influence on her behavior. Sometimes these injections can have side effects, such as uterus infection (a very serious condition that can be fatal if not treated quickly). Maybe better to have her checked up at the vet, also because the male has more interest in her again.

Nienke

Don't worry I am

If am able to copy it I can send a copy to you and we can see what kind of training they use-agree?

Gerd

It is just that I have seen the type of training (here and in the States and Europe) and I have seen the dogs. I have also seen some of the dogs dumped as 'unsuitable'. Some of these dogs were, in my opinion, good dogs but too much suppressed and completely misunderstood by there former dog trainer (s). If they would have received proper training adapted to them as an individual, they could have been very good and loyal police dogs.

The difference between positive reinforcement and traditional dog training methods.

Example: last year I (with some others) was watching a police dog training session where the dog needed to sit and bark behind the helper (man in protection suit). Problem of this dog was that after a second or 2 it would jump up and bite. This was not allowed. What the handler did not see was that the dog, before it would jump up and bite, it looked at the handler for confirmation for correct behavior. Each time they repeated the session, we could clearly see the dog looking at the handler. If right at that moment the handler (or somebody at the sideline) would tell the dog it was doing ok (that split second it DID sit and guard, just before the jump and bite) and would be rewarded for the correct behavior (that is sit and guard), it would have been crystal clear to the dog. And with some repetition, the correct behavior would have rooted in. (This is what have happened, thank goodness)

In tradional dog training the dog would be seen as stubborn or stupid. 'They' would say the dog has too high of a drive blah-blah-blah. Concentration is on the incorrect behavior (jump and bite) and the dog would receive punishment by choke chain, pinch collar or electrical collar. This would make the dog understand it did something wrong, and after a while it will even understand it was the 'jump and bite' that caused the severe pain. But what is correct, nobody tells the dog. It has to find out by it self: that is, it learns to avoid behavior that causes pain and unpleasant feelings, and finally will find the certain behavior that not causes that. End result is a dog that is continuous on the alert for avoiding correction and many police dogs need to be corrected stronger and stronger because they kind-of become immune to it.

Other example: yesterday I went to the local market (talad nad) that is held every Sunday afternoon next to my place. Pretty much no dogs around, and thus an ideal place for me to train my dogs. I took Jacky, a young dalmation with an over-dose of energy (completely normal for a dalmation, though) super curious at everything and nothing (he lacks proper socialization), and acting as a vacuum cleaner (probably he has known hunger during the short period when he was roaming the streets before brought to the shelter). What I wanted him to do was walking on slack lead next to me, stop vacuum clean and definitely don't put his big nose in every passing bag.

Punishment method: choke chain and correct every time he shows improper behavior such as pulling on the lead, jumping up at hands, bags, frogs, tables with whatever on it, etc.

Positive reinforcement: get the attention of your dog and click/reward for doing so. Then keep the attention of your dog. Click/reward for 4 paws on the ground, for ignoring a passing bag, for quietly sitting next to you, for walking on a slack lead, etc. Now in Jacky's case, he has a concentration span of less than 2 seconds, meaning a lot of click/rewards in the beginning. The better he becomes the less click/rewards he gets. But that takes several training sessions. Each very short training session I interrupt by giving him 'free' so he can sniff and mark the same place 2 or 3 times

Three days ago I took him with me in the car. A huge adventure. The first 3 km's I did drive very slowly, while trying to get Jacky out of my ear, from my lap, and back inside through the window (I did not want to put him in a travel crate as then he wouldn't learn anything. Therefore, I leashed him on the back seat, but still )

Fairly quickly he learned that by sitting or laying down quietly he would receive click/reward. He absolutely loved the whole trip, and ready for the next adventure. I was dead tired

Most police and military dog trainers are the least open for changing towards positive reinforcement, they are rusted in the old training methods!!! Although, in Holland I have seen a very slow change especially under the young people.

Nienke

Hi Bina,

Just read this thread.

How is it going with the lawyer? Any progress? And how are you doing with all the pressure you carry on your shoulders?

I will make an commitment to you by sending you encouraging thoughts every day at 4 pm (Thai time) and, if I'm at home, burning a candle and incenstines. I hope this will provide you with some strenght knowing that every day at that time there is somebody out there who thinks of you and admires you in your fight for a happy life with your husband. And although the road isn't easy, you will succeed for sure!

For now I also wish you lots and lots of strenght and energy,

Love and a big hug,

Nienke

why not share the advice/tips on this open thread?

Please ask macb to explain his training here. Difficult(I think) to understand in a written explanation, thats why I had to speak to him on the phone.

Are you interested?

In a couple of days I will get a very good DVD from the Thai Police dog school where they explain their training methods step by step, but it's in Thai language.

Gerd

Do I misunderstand or ... weren't you in favor of positive reinforcement?

Hi,

There are two forms of mange:

*) Demodectic mange caused by a worm-like spider that lives in the hair follicles. These parasites are transmitted by the mother animal when the puppies are still iny-tiny.

A very high percentage of dogs carry this parasites with them due to uncontrolled breeding whether the dog is a stray or pet or breeding bitch. (carriers should be excluded form breeding, but that is something that is hardly ever done )

*) Sarcoptic mange or Scabies, caused by a spider-like parasite that is living just under the skin where it causes considerable itch. This mange can be tranmitted to people and at any time of a dog's life.

The demodect parasites can multiply explosively when the immunity of the animal drops. This can be a result of hormonal changes during the onset of the puberties (many dogs develop mange during this period of time, but when treated quickly before it goes over into the generalized form it won't take long before this disease is under control. But once it has become generalized (i.e. dog has more bold spots all over the body or, worse, is pretty much bold already and suffers secondary bacterial infection as well).

Very important is to boost the immune system with good high quality food. If the dog is fed on any of the mdogfoods sold at the supermarket it is highly recommendable to switch to a brands such as Hill's Science Diet, Nutro, Premium Edge, Eagle, Chicken Soup for the Dog lovers, Advanced Pet Diet, Royal Canine, etc. And as Bambina already mentioned supplement with extra vitamins, minerals and oils.

Personally I prefer to give the dogs and cats raw feeding, as all the goodies are still in there unprocessed and ready for the animal to digest.

Although I favor holistic treatment, with mange dogs I always go to the vet for ivermectic treatment. The risk on transmition to other animals or that the localized demodectic mange goes over in generalized is too high for me. Sometimes you only discover that the parasites have spread all over the body and were not restricted only to the bold spots, after you have started the ivermectin treatment. If, then, you have treated only the bold spots, you (and you animal) can have a very unpleasant surprise.

However, I do support the treatment with a coconut mixture. That is a mixture of coconut oil and sulfur (and turmeric if there is any skin infection) Turmeric works as an anti-septic, sulfur makes the environment unpleasant for the parasites and cocnut does a wonderful job in making the hair grow back. You massage the mixures on the affected skin.

Also Scabies animals can be treated with this mixture.

And don't worry if the animal licks the stuff of. Also internal these three ingredients do a good job.

Ivermectic is quite a burden for the liver and all collie (mixed) breeds can not handle this medicine. Many vet's support the liver with vitamin B complex pills during the treatment.

Some vet's supports the treatment with antibiotics and corticosteroids as well. Bambina mentioned the antibiotics in case of folliculitis ,dermatistis. As for the corticosteroids, I only give when the animal scratches itself too threads, otherwise I don't give as it is immuno-suppressive and that's is just the thing that needs to be boosted. I do not have satisfying results with anti-histamines.

Anyway, to cut a long story short: in my opinion it is best to consult a vet and start treatment, change to a good diet (if you ahven't already) and massage your dog with the cocnut miuxture everyday (she will love )

Wishing you good luck,

Nienke

Hi,

I've heard many positive notes on Dream Team Kennel. They seem to have top quality dogs and have won many times in (international) dogshows with their stock.

Their website is in Thai (http://www.dreamteampom.com/index.htm), but so far I know they speak very well English (08-1835-8838, 0-2472-5423).

So far I remember, they also have top-quality Shih Tzu's and Chihuahua.

Good Luck,

Nienke

My 16 year old kitty is losing her battle with kidney failure and stomach cancer. I know she has had a wonderful life and been very happy but it doesn't make it any easier, does it?

Having a pet for so long and then losing them is very difficult, eventually the pain lessens and you can remember them without too much grief. Takes awhile tho

thanks mig, but no, it appears to be terminal. Probably in the next few days. Worst part is I can't be there to comfort her in her final days as I am currently in the US helping my parents out. I am not sorry I am here but am very sorry she can't be with me in her final days I have talked to her on the phone every day and my husband said she appears to respond to my voice on the phone. Meowed into the receiver the other night. Nearly made me cry

So, it helps to hear about others, even if it makes me a bit weepy eyed. She is not the first pet I have lost but she is the closest and the one I have had the longest.

Also you, sbk, I would like to wish lots of strenght in this difficult time especially as you can't be there during her final days. Luckily, your husband is with her.

Nienke

... I dont think I will be getting a new puppy anytime soon though...

...also for practical reason...since Im not home enough it would not be very good to have a lil pup sitting at home waiting for me to return...or having to send her to my Mom's or elsewhere if I were to go away on trips....not long...say a week at a time, but thats like eternity to leave your dog in someone else's care.. they arent as easy as cats are they...where you could perhaps ask someone to drop by every couple of days to leave some food and water...

Thanks MiG, this is what we call 'showing responsibility for the well-being of your pet'!!!

Although, I do not completely agree with your cat-theory. Also they can be pretty miserable when the owner isn't coming home for a couple of days.

Nienke

P.S. What is 'lil'?

I am looking for a good Rottweiler Puppy. Does anyone know of a good breeder in Thailand?

Hi,

Just check the following thread: http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=70171

Good Luck

Nienke

Exactly 4 months ago I lost my beloved Julie. Shes a fox terrier, been with us a little over 20 years. I know that she was starting to suffer in the last couple of months of her life, but even then it doesnt quite make dealing with her loss any easier

Im hoping the 'somewhat' anonymity of a web forum will at least make me able to share this without getting too personal and therefore overly emotional. I guess a way to let things out.......

thanks for reading

I'm so sorry for your loss, MiG16. Over 20 years ... Julie had become part of your life. Loosing her means loosing a part of yourself. And then, 4 months is nothing, as if it only happened a few days ago.

Personally, I would not advice in favor of a new dog/puppy so quickly. The danger exists that you may project Julie in this new dog, and that one will never be able to put up to these expectations. I favor more to go through the grieving process first, how hard and painful that may be. You will know when the time is ripe for a new dog.

How one goes through the grieving process is personal. At the time I lost my little boxer, I put her picture everywhere (still got her pic's in my wallet, and she passed away 3 years ago!). I also made a special place/altar with her picture, candles and some incentines that i lit everyday. Everyday, stood in front of this little altar and spend some moments with her (usually with tears poring down). I still do this once in a while, but it is definitely a lot less. My daily ritual, helped me a great deal in the grieving process. One thing I didn't do and that is surpressing my feelings I had (and still have) for my little boxer.

Wishing you a lot of strenght in your grieving,

Nienke

Pet Perfect 01-3302894. On Sukumvhit Road just past Naklua Road as you travel towards Pattaya. Found bird stuff there as well - handfeeding food - supplies.

That's about a 9 hour drive for me so will look a little closer to home. Thanks for the price information. If anyone in Chiangmai knows what store has these brands let me know. Been buying Pedigree at Lotus and don't think they have it.

Science Diet you can get at:

Ban Mha ka Meaw Animal Hospital on the Mahidol Road, next to Chiang Mai land

In Ran Raksat Overseas Petshop in the parking lot of Airport Plaza or in their shop between Carrefour and MAkro

Dr. Nook Animal Hospital on the Chang Klan road

The two Ran Raksat Overseas Petshop branches sell as well:

Nutro

Premium Edge

Eukanuba

Chicken Soup for The Dog Lovers

and many other brands but of medium grade and low grade.

You are absolutely right: Never give them cooked bones!

For the fresh meats I go to TOPS or another good supermarket.

When not 100% sure of the quality boil it before feeding ur dogs.

Gerd

Hi there,

Wow, my topic

I feed my dogs raw already for 5 or 6 years (always forget when I started 2000 or 2001). Since I have had several other dogs on raw as well, with incredible results.

On of my best victories (if I may say) was a Great Dane pup that came to me at 5 months of age, looking like a puppet on strings. He hardly could hold himself on his fours anymore. The vet's thought calcium lack. But I thought, if that's the case, why calcium supplement does not do the trick? How come he can't absorb the calcium?

Within one month eating raw food (with lots of bones), vitamin C and homeopathic remedies, this dog started strenghtening up. And after 6 months on raw feeding he was recovered for 95%, running around and playing with many doggy friends, under which his best friend at the time, a pug . Unforunately the other 5% was permanent damage, but not in the least bothering the dog.

In the beginning I fed quite some chicken carcasses, thinking it contained enough meat. Until I understood that in fact Raw Meaty Bones stands for 50% bones and 50% meat.

So, nowadays I changed to whole chickens, no feathers but everything still in it, and cut those in the pieces I need for each dog per meal.

Two to three days chicken meals, then one day another animal protein (this in order to prevent allergies) whihc can be a meal containing only tripes, sparerib, or a veggie meal (50% veggies 50% fish or organ meat of pork or beef). I never give raw fish, but that is more before my dogs rather starve to death than to eat that

Pork can contain the Aujesky virus, although once a Chiang Mai vet told me that pigs in Thailand are vaccinated against this virus (does anybody knows about this?).

Once a dog or cat has caught this virus, it will be fatal. There is no anti-serum. However, the chance that your animal runs on the street (assuming you live in a very quiet place where hardly ever cars or bikes are passing) and is killed is higher than your animal catches the virus.

It's up to the individual owner if you want to take the chance or not.

Bones (all poultry bones but also pork bones) whether they are cooked BBQ-ed, smoked or in another way heat-processed are very dangerous to your animal. This is because the calcium hardens, making the bones very sharp one splintered.

This also counts for Thai dogs, they do not have digestive system different from pedigree dogs. There are still at high risk when given cooked bones.

Cooking of food makes that nutrients disappear or become less bio-available to the animal. The longer the heating the lower the bio-availability and the less vitamins and minerals. Enzymes, so necessary for the digestive process, will be destroyed in the cooking process.

In raw food all the goodies are in the ingredients you feed to your animal and readily available.

I buy most of the ingredients on the local market, where they also are willing to mince the organ meat for me. The veggies I put through the blender at home before mixing it with the animal protein.

Although, in the beginning I supplemented a lot, nowadays I hardly do. (over-supplementing can do harm as well)

Anyway, I have written an whole article on this subject, with feeding schedule and all. There are quite some people who have used this already

You can find this article via my profile.

In Thailand there are quite some people who are feeding their dogs Raw food already. I have heard that there even has been a forum on BARF (Bones and Raw Food) on the Pantip.com some years ago.

Thanks for all your advice - one more question.. Can you get the Royal Canin pet foods? one of my cats is over 7kilo and is on whats called 'Obesity Management' :-) he has been on Hills before so would be no great loss if royal canin is not available

Hi there,

I know that you can get Royal Canin pet foods in Thailand (for sure in BKK), but where I can't help you with, after all I live in Chiang Mai.

Science Diet is more common and many vets and also petshops sell prescription diets. It might be an idea to bring a short suplly for your cat and as soon as you arrived in Chonburi try to find a vet. They most probably can tell you where to get the prescription diet or they sell it themselves.

Wish you good luck and a pleasant stay in Chonburi

We brought our Birmen cat from England 3 years ago, he has adapted very well (much better than the 2 dogs that came as well). No problems at all with the flight.

Standard of vetinary care here in Chiang Mai is poor. I usually e-mail my vet in the uk when there is a problem (he diagnosed distemper in a puppy from 10,0000 miles away, it's endemic over here & yet they couln't diagnose it!!!

We give our cat Revolution once a month (a spot on) & it protetcts against heartworm (endemic here), fleas, ear mites, mange & in theory ticks.

Hope this helps.

Hi there,

Also I live in Chiang Mai. Although I do think that the veterinary care in Chiang Mai is up to standard, it is very important to know your animal, to ask a lot of questions and demand answers. If a vet does not want to answer, it is better to change the vet. One big complaint I have, though, is that many vet's are very quick with describing corticosteroids (anti-itch, anti-swelling and anti-inflammation) sometimes for long periods of times (1 to 2 months in a row), without tapering it down or prescribing it every other day (as it should be), and without looking for the cause of the illness (in other words, it's only symptom treatment). But this is not Thailand specific, you come across this in many Western countries as well.

As for the infectious diseases, to my knowledge there are testkits available that can test for: heartworm, Erhliciosis canis (that is one of the deadly tick diseases), Canine distemper, Parvovirus, Feline Immunity defficiency, and Feline Leucemia (FeLV). If I'm not mistaken, they all test for the antibodies against those diseases and are accrurate for up to 98%

In my experience, most animals imported adapt well to the Thai circumstances. And although, there are many infectious diseases in this country (due to hot and humid climate and still quite some not-vaccinated animals) against most you can protect your animal through sufficient vaccination and providing good food. A diet stands at the basis of a good health and immunity!

I have bad to extreme bad experience with dogfood, sold in supermarkets. The price of these foods may be not too high, but have a low to extreme low bio-availability to the dog and are full with preservatives, artificial coloring, flavoring and other total yekki stuff. Giving this kind of food to your animal is asking for trouble. At my kennel I have seen many dogs improving after they went from a supermarket food over on a high(er) quality diet (Hill's Science Diet). Other good to very good dog food brands are: Nutro, Advanced Pet Diet (APD), Chicken Soup for the Dog Lovers, Premium Edge, Eagle (there may be more available in BKK which I have no knowledge of). They are all at least 2,000 baht for a 40 lb or 18.1 kg bag of adult food. But then, at least, your animal will receive the necessary nutrients in sufficient amounts, in the right balance and it also bio-available for the animal.

As for cats, I only have good experience with Hill's Science Diet. Don't know other high quality brands, but they must be for sale.

Cats that are allowed to roam outside, are more susceptible for the infectious diseases FIV and FeLV. Just because there are many carriers under the outside cats (strays as well as those that have homes). It is up to the individual owner whether you want to play safe and keep your cat indoors, or that you choose for a cat enjoying its freedom and exercise outside.

As for the flight itself, it may be an idea to have your cats get used to be and be carried in a crate. You have start with crate training now.

Wish you good luck, Nienke

The poodle is older then the golden and arrived, I assume as a puppy in your family, more than a year before, putting her in a higher position.

OMR says:" We do not favor one over the other, since the golden stays outside, while the poodle is an indoor dog" But, if one dog is allowed to have access into the house (the den) of the pack leaders, it is already favored over the other one. However, this does not necessarily lead to misunderstandings concerning rank. My late boxer, Lucky, was outside last in rank of my three females. Being my total weakness, she was at the time the only dog allowed in the house (now all of them are, preferable first a dip in the water, then a roll in the mud followed by a final slide through my house ) and even on my bed (no they ar enot allowed on my bed, not even with their muddy paws). That made her feel inside the absolute top dog. And, woh, the one that dared to put one paw inside.

There never was a problem between my three females, although my boxer was in character the most dominant one. But she grew up as little puppy with the other two as being her aunti. She accepted her role last in rank (and I respected the decison made between the ladies by not spoiling her when outside) However, with another female that had been left behind when she was 1 years old, she never came to an agreement. The two bitches could not come to terms who was higher and who was lower in rank.

Letting them figure that out on a neutral area was not an option. They hated each other too much. Neutral area can work well for dogs to get acquitant before letting them into one of the territories, if they have agreed on the rank division. Thus success is not guaranteed, especially not when it concerns females.

Your golden has been raised seperately from the poodle. She never learned to submit to the poodle, which she should have done according to normal dog language (the poodle is older and was there first). It is very possible that at the arrival of the golden the poodle was a little upset with this intrusion of the new-comers and immdiately showed the new-comer her place. This was intervened by you. You punished the poodle for showing aggression, while most probably she was doing what every top dog would do with a pup: teaching her manners. By putting down the top dog, you favor the lower rank, putting it into a depended rank. Meaning that the lower rank will feel strong together with you and may start challenging the position of the top dog when you are around. When this develops fights also start occurring when you are not around.

I'm not sure at what age you've purchased the poodle. Usually small breed dogs are sold or given away at approximately 4 to 5 weeks of age. When this iny-tiny little puppy then ends up in a pack that consists only of human pack member, it will never learn it is actually a dog and it lacks most of the social skills in order to communicate normally with other dogs (and with us). It just never learned how to communicate. As it also has not been socialized with other dogs, other dogs can scare the hel_l out of such a dog, resulting in fear-aggression.

Through conditioning the dog may learn that by charging, barking and/or biting the other will back out, giving it a sense of control over the situation. This results in an increase of the aggressive behavior.

What is really going on in the situation with the poodle and the golden. What kind of behavior is the poodle showing during the incidents: fear-aggression or insecure dominance aggression or is it territorial agression or maybe some other form of aggression? What triggers this beahvior in the poddle and in what context? And how about the golden? What drives her to show agression towards the poodle and when? And what will she do when the puppies have arrived, when she already does not accept the poodle around.

As you can see there are several factors to consider before coming to a proper advice fully adapted to the situation of the poodle and the golden.

Behavioral consultations should consist of two parts: history taking through a questionnaire and conversation with the owner/s and/or care-taker/s and observing the dogs together with their human and dog apck members in my office or in their own environment. And if the need arises behavioral tests are added.

Then a last answer before I have to rush home:

I live very happily in Chiang Mai. Details you can find in my profile.

Huge P.S. Have a most adorable black English cocker in boarding and training. Her name is Kira, estimated between 3 and 5 years old, spayed, non-barking, not hyper (as some cockers can be) and she is for adoption.

I also have Jackie, the dalmation in boarding and training. He is 'slightly' different from Kira. Full of energy and quickly bored and uttermost faithfull, he needs a strong but gentle authorising hand from someone who loves to go exercising with him. He's between 1 and 2 years young and neutered.

Information you can get from carefordogs.org or call 08 1907 3260

To answer your questions:

. Currently we have two females, a 3 year old poodle and a 1 1/2 old golden. We will breed the golden the next time she is in heat with a friend's golden. My questions are twofold. One, how to get the poodle and golden to get along better than they currently do. Two, when we breed the golden, we would like to keep one of the puppies. We would prefer a male, but I originally asked whether the sex of the puppy would matter (i.e. would a male be better than another female, given we already have two females).

. Nienke, will it matter that the golden puppy will be the offspring with our current golden? In other words, wouldn't a mother/daughter or mother/son get along better than if we just added another golden?

. The poodle and the golden fight. They may, at the end of the day, be like Elfe's dogs. We do not favor one over the other, since the golden stays outside,while the poodle is an indoor dog. They eat separately and sleep separately. Occasionally, when we make a mistake and have a screen door between them, the golden will want in, and the poodle will charge at the golden barking loudly. The poodle also barks loudly when I go outside to play with the golden (somehow the dog knows). Being indoors, the poodle gets the most attention, but the poodle, which was the first dog, seems to be the aggressive one.

. These dogs have never played nicely together. I think the golden just wants to play. If a friend brings their dog over to the house, the golden always plays with the other dog, but usually these dogs will be other goldens of equal size.

. We always reprimand the poodle for her aggressive behavior towards the golden. It doesn't matter. The poodle attacks all the time. I always have separated them in time. I have never been bitten, but that may be because I am the one separating them.

. We want them to get along, but have been reticent to put them together to let them work it out in case they don't and one injures the other.

. As it relates to food, the poodle is never satisfied. Since one is an inside dog and the other an outside dog, they eat separately.

. Both are obedient. Really no problems with these dogs, they only have problems with each other.

. We try to gauge their body language, but the poodle is so quick to react. I would imagine you would do much better on this than we do.

. Since we have never put them together, we don't know how bad it would be if we did.

I think your advise is sound, and we will most probably keep them separate forever. We love both equally and wouldn't want anything to hurt them.

Please do advise on whether a mother/son or mother/daughter relationship would work best as it relates to the puppy, when we get him or her.

Thanks,

In general rank problems between male and female are much less likely than between two females. The only problem that may occur is during heat priod of the mother dog, when the son wants to mount her.

Also be aware of possible maternal aggression. The golden mom may go for the kill when poodle head pops up through an open screen door.

Good luck! And please show us some pic's once the pups are born