unheard

Yeah, that's gonna be the plan. Will time its implementation to the elevated tank replacement event which will become a "master" and be feeding any additional tanks on the ground by gravity. The on the ground tanks' upper water levels controlled by ball float valves.

Just found out that my submersible is actually connected to such a box. I wasn't even aware of that - never operate the pump myself. Will now have to figure out how to connect the box to a float switch.

This one periodically comes on sale for about 5000 THB: https://www.lazada.co.th/products/dewalt-18v-dcd778d2-brushless21-3-i266361482-s415417669.html?spm=a2o4m.searchlist.list.2.36ee18a2vAFxd1&search=1

How could a genuine battery have a cost of 3-4000 THB if the "real" drill with the brushless motor and two batteries has been priced at 5000 THB?

Sounds like the solution I might implement in the future. One of my old tanks seats on an elevated platform. Unfortunately it's very old and dirty. I'll need to replace that tank first.

I plan to place the new water tank approx 30 meters away from the well. If I'm not mistaken the intelligent pump controller must be located right next to the tank and well location, correct? You've mentioned the cisten type valve. Could you please elaborate more on its function? Thank you.

I have a setup for the existing house water supply where two old water tanks attached to the manually switched well pump (2 y.o. 1 HP Franklin). No municipal water supply. I need to add another water tank for the still unfinished new house on the same lot, but this time want to automate the water tank filling process. I think I've seen something about well pump control boards that could take care of the process. My goal is to automate the filling process for at least the new tank. I'm thinking about running a new, separate water line to that tank, so to separate the old tanks from the new one if it's impossible to use the old line for both manual and automatic fill systems. Does anyone here have any info on the subject? Would it be possible to operate such control board in both manual (for old tanks) and automatic (new tank) mode? Any suggestions? Thank you!

So UPVC alternatives are rubbish and junk...???? According to a random guy who only installs metal gutters?

Start here: https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/ A great source of knowledge for pool owners. Well worth of your time.

https://www.mitsuheavythai.com/en/ https://mhiaa.com.au/products/series/ducted-airconditioning-systems-fdum-series/

Or Mitsubishi: https://th.mitsubishielectric.com/en/products-solutions/air-conditioning/index.html

Perhaps you shouldn't be so aggressive in responding to others opinions. KhunLA has stated his opinion and informed the OP of other available options.

Agreed.

Are you building a bomb shelter? Bluescope (insulated) rolled metal roofs are the most cost and thermally efficient roof option on the market. Calling it a cheap charlie solution is misleading.

A complete waste of money if your local sources aren't loaded with some nasty stuff that can not be neutralized by boiling, as being the case with minerals. And how would you know without performing a comprehensive water quality test? High levels of calcium is not a big deal but that is only one of many minerals found in ground water. e.g. your water source might be loaded with fluoride (many times over the safe drinking level) - a well known problem in some areas of Thailand. And you'll never know about its presence since fluoride doesn't add any taste or smell. Try to boil that stuff out...

That's usually what causes the most leaks in the valleys - accumulated debris or dust restricting the flow. Narrow valley liners is another common issue.

From what I remember, they've asked me to send them four 1-liter bottles. Their recommendation is to buy drinking water bottles, empty them out and then refill with well water. A process that largely eliminates potential cross-contamination. They also offer the convenience service (extra cost), when they come to your site to collect the samples. https://www.testtech.co.th/public/th

Can elaborate on this? Do they sell different ranges (models)? How does affect us as consumers if there's a commercial line of their products, oriented at the commercial side of the market?

Surprised to see that they've neglected to install a pump pad. Isn't it a required feature? Obviously, not on your well since you haven't applied for a permit. Still, there's a good reason to have one as to prevent surface water from entering the well. Regarding the testing lab... Have you already selected one? I've used one located in Bangkok. Let me know if you need their contact info. Their tested parameters: PH, Turbidity, Color, Total Hardness, Chloride, Total Iron, Manganese, Nitrate, Sulfate, Total Dissolved Solids, Arsenic, Cadmium, Copper, Lead, Mercury, Selenium, Zinc, Cyanide, Fluoride, Non Carbonate Hardness, Standard Plate Count, Coliform Bacteria, E. Coli

Was the Mr. Slim of the inverter kind? I see them being heavily promoted at very good prices. Would you buy one again given a choice?

What will be the usage case for the well water?

????

After how many years?

2 meters are fine (maybe), yet 3 meters - is really pushing it. I think the OP has 3 meters or more on his mind. Was your house design permitted?

The example shows the un-permitted car port - no one really cares about the structural integrity of those. If you plan to build a permitted house then there's no way a structural engineer will undersign such a design for a dwelling.