degrub

whooooo

Flightless

And they better de-burr the pipe end, prime coat the pipe & fitting, “glue” coat, insert and twist quarter turn to full depth to get a good join. The “glue” never fully hardens. You can carefully cut and peel the pipe out of a fitting if you want.

I’ve had it in both ears for almost all my life. You get used to it. Mine is like highly compressed crickets going full blast. I find that it varies in intensity depending on sleep, caffeine, food, exercise, but never entirely goes away. I think i remember reading about some sort of implant that helped from a few years back. Sorry, don’t have a reference. hopefully, yours is just temporary and gets better over time.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwi-hp6AlPX5AhVBLkQIHVw4CJEQFnoECBIQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FCondensate-Blow-Out-Valve-Ball%2Fdp%2FB00QJ0QKH2&usg=AOvVaw3fVv9WtW-Ukmvm5-RxcSSh this one has a single schrader connection. You have to rotate the valve handle in the correct direction as it will direct the air one way or the other depending on direction of rotation

Yacht

Model

Garvey

flakes

And make sure you pressure test the line if you are going to cover it up permanently. Too easy to get a bad glue joint on pvc that you don’t find until you have to unclog the line. you can also run the drain line outside and just cover it with U shaped gutter or similar to hide it.

Put an ac drain isolation valve near the evaporator. This is a ball valve kitted with a schraeder valve (like on your car tire) fitting on each side of the valve. Allows you to blow the line clear with a short blast of compressed air when you get a biofilm plugging the drain line. you also will want to be able to isolate the drain vent from the evaporator so that you can put a little bleach in the line every month to kill biofilms that will grow. Chlorine gas from the bleach will attack the evaporator coil metal over time.

And maybe going a hair too fast ….

She’s moving again after 5 hr tug operation. Issue with the rudder system according to the report.

If you are having them put the files on an external drive, just have a friend upload them to the cloud for you from that drive.

If all you are dealing with is low voltage wiring (<25 vdc) all you may need is a rod secured across the box or a bracket within. Zip tie the cables to that to provide strain relief. If you are working with power cables, then drilled, deburred holes in the box and fitted with electrical strain relief grommets are typical. Just get the right size hole saw and leave about a radius between each hole edge for structural support. or get a box with prepunched hole positions.

a liitle tough to maneuver around harbors then. May even be required for entry.

I have been told stories by Thai friends whose family were commercial fisherman that pirates were an issue for them near Cambodia and Vietnam. The Straits of Malacca have always had that reputation, but I don’t have any direct information.

Can a non-resident or foreigner buy and own a boat in Thailand ? Just curious.

Engine, fuel leak, petrol, … has your friend ever lived aboard a sailboat before for an extended time ? is this solo or with “crew” ? buy a boat. Watch the money go down the drain for the continual maintenance and refit.

Sorry, looks like you have something different. Ignore what i wrote.

This is for a hdhomerun tuner box ?

Go to the tuner config pages where you have the tuner scan for channels. There will be a list of available channels. Select the star until it fills in (solid star) to make a favorite. Click again to unfavorite, Click again to block from list.

In a nutshell, “hardwire to keep the consumer from injuring or killing themselves “ because they are not trained in electrical safety and handling.

Vom = voltage ohm meter - aka multimeter- what you may have Dvm = digital version the reason to disconnect the wires from the contactor coil terminals is you may measure the resistance of something else instead of the coil. before you touch any wires, make sure power is disconnected from the system. Sometimes there is only a breaker that can be turned off. The issue with breakers is that if they have had to trip in the past there can be a carbon track inside that will pass current. I have had 120 v AC breakers that were in the off position, but it still provided 50 v at the device. Breaker had to be replaced before the work. A plug in connection is the easiest - just unplug ????. That is one reason you see plug cords on most consumer devices ! if there are separate power supply circuits to the chlorinator and the water pump and the controls, you should do each one as they may also connect at devices like contactors. so once you think you have disconnected or interrupted the current flow to the device you are going to test, you can use a voltage measurement to verify at the terminal of each wire on say a contactor. That way, if there is a fault somewhere or not all of the circuits are disconnected, you will measure a voltage where it should be 0 relative to earth, to neutral return, and other wires on the device. If your multimeter is analog type, watch out for the indicator needle slamming against 0 as you may have reversed the polarity. Just swap the red probe and the black probe and it should indicate properly. A DVM may handle a negative reading. If the current running through the wire is AC make sure you select AC voltage on your multimeter. Similar for DC. You can also use a neon pen tester at each wire terminal instead of a multimeter for AC circuits. When using a multimeter, some times the flexible wire to the probes gets a break, usually near the ends. You always test with a known source - AC plug for AC or a battery for DC voltage for example just before use. one other warning in case the pump motor has a starting capacitor. They can be mounted on the outside of the motor case barrel or on the end opposite the shaft. These will discharge very high current instantly if shorted. If this contactor is wired directly to the motor, be very careful to not touch those terminal screws or the wires to the motor with any part of your body. i am sure there is a safe, accepted way to discharge the capacitor, but i have only dealt with dead ones. @Crossy ??? The other thing to be aware of is the bare metal on your screwdriver. Even though the handle is insulating, sometimes we forget and touch the screwdriver metal with our other hand or to the metal box or something conductive while on the terminal. At best it is a strong shock through the arm. We used to wrap a couple layers of 600 v electrical tape on ours to help. Now there are insulated screwdrivers available. Another reason to verify the circuit is disconnected from power. There may be something else i am not remembering. Perhaps someone else with experience will chime in. The above have kept me intact over the years even though i am an amateur and only work with electrical systems occasionally now. Once dropped a tool across a 12 v car battery - impressive that a neat divot in metal can be created with a few hundred amps of current in a split second. Current kills. And circuit breakers may not be fast enough.

Assuming the two coils on the contactor are designed the same ( see if you can find the resistance spec online, i forget the nominal expected values) with power disconnected from the entire system, check for voltage at each wire with your vom/dvm, mark and pull back the wires at the contactor, and measure the resistance of each coil. They should measure approximately the same. If the coil that the auto position feeds is much higher, it may be time to replace. Regarding the switch, contact cleaner may remove enough crud to restore it, but you have to remove it from the system first and should expose the contact surfaces. If the chlorinator control circuit ( timer or otherwise) is providing the PUMP ON control signal through the AUTO switch position, then a defect there ( low current through) could indeed be an issue. Too low of output plus going through a dirty switch contact combined might be enough to cause the initial start failure. Rotating the switch would disturb the crud on the switch contacts until it oxidizes again. The ON switch position should be directly providing current to the contactor coil to close the contacts on power feed to the pump motor proving no issue with the motor or that coil. Experience is a good teacher. We do tend to jump to the most common failure in our experience for the symptoms as the likely solution/idea for an issue when we cannot directly observe the physical reality. Not knowing how these systems are typically designed, i would not have thought of the chlorinator. Hence my ask for the circuit drawing. Control timers are just another set of contacts to get dirty and a motor to fail. peace.