degrub

Go to the tuner config pages where you have the tuner scan for channels. There will be a list of available channels. Select the star until it fills in (solid star) to make a favorite. Click again to unfavorite, Click again to block from list.

In a nutshell, “hardwire to keep the consumer from injuring or killing themselves “ because they are not trained in electrical safety and handling.

Vom = voltage ohm meter - aka multimeter- what you may have Dvm = digital version the reason to disconnect the wires from the contactor coil terminals is you may measure the resistance of something else instead of the coil. before you touch any wires, make sure power is disconnected from the system. Sometimes there is only a breaker that can be turned off. The issue with breakers is that if they have had to trip in the past there can be a carbon track inside that will pass current. I have had 120 v AC breakers that were in the off position, but it still provided 50 v at the device. Breaker had to be replaced before the work. A plug in connection is the easiest - just unplug ????. That is one reason you see plug cords on most consumer devices ! if there are separate power supply circuits to the chlorinator and the water pump and the controls, you should do each one as they may also connect at devices like contactors. so once you think you have disconnected or interrupted the current flow to the device you are going to test, you can use a voltage measurement to verify at the terminal of each wire on say a contactor. That way, if there is a fault somewhere or not all of the circuits are disconnected, you will measure a voltage where it should be 0 relative to earth, to neutral return, and other wires on the device. If your multimeter is analog type, watch out for the indicator needle slamming against 0 as you may have reversed the polarity. Just swap the red probe and the black probe and it should indicate properly. A DVM may handle a negative reading. If the current running through the wire is AC make sure you select AC voltage on your multimeter. Similar for DC. You can also use a neon pen tester at each wire terminal instead of a multimeter for AC circuits. When using a multimeter, some times the flexible wire to the probes gets a break, usually near the ends. You always test with a known source - AC plug for AC or a battery for DC voltage for example just before use. one other warning in case the pump motor has a starting capacitor. They can be mounted on the outside of the motor case barrel or on the end opposite the shaft. These will discharge very high current instantly if shorted. If this contactor is wired directly to the motor, be very careful to not touch those terminal screws or the wires to the motor with any part of your body. i am sure there is a safe, accepted way to discharge the capacitor, but i have only dealt with dead ones. @Crossy ??? The other thing to be aware of is the bare metal on your screwdriver. Even though the handle is insulating, sometimes we forget and touch the screwdriver metal with our other hand or to the metal box or something conductive while on the terminal. At best it is a strong shock through the arm. We used to wrap a couple layers of 600 v electrical tape on ours to help. Now there are insulated screwdrivers available. Another reason to verify the circuit is disconnected from power. There may be something else i am not remembering. Perhaps someone else with experience will chime in. The above have kept me intact over the years even though i am an amateur and only work with electrical systems occasionally now. Once dropped a tool across a 12 v car battery - impressive that a neat divot in metal can be created with a few hundred amps of current in a split second. Current kills. And circuit breakers may not be fast enough.

Assuming the two coils on the contactor are designed the same ( see if you can find the resistance spec online, i forget the nominal expected values) with power disconnected from the entire system, check for voltage at each wire with your vom/dvm, mark and pull back the wires at the contactor, and measure the resistance of each coil. They should measure approximately the same. If the coil that the auto position feeds is much higher, it may be time to replace. Regarding the switch, contact cleaner may remove enough crud to restore it, but you have to remove it from the system first and should expose the contact surfaces. If the chlorinator control circuit ( timer or otherwise) is providing the PUMP ON control signal through the AUTO switch position, then a defect there ( low current through) could indeed be an issue. Too low of output plus going through a dirty switch contact combined might be enough to cause the initial start failure. Rotating the switch would disturb the crud on the switch contacts until it oxidizes again. The ON switch position should be directly providing current to the contactor coil to close the contacts on power feed to the pump motor proving no issue with the motor or that coil. Experience is a good teacher. We do tend to jump to the most common failure in our experience for the symptoms as the likely solution/idea for an issue when we cannot directly observe the physical reality. Not knowing how these systems are typically designed, i would not have thought of the chlorinator. Hence my ask for the circuit drawing. Control timers are just another set of contacts to get dirty and a motor to fail. peace.

This string of posts just illustrates the difficulties troubleshooting over the internet. your likely best solution is to have a local company ( or the one that installed the system) come figure it out and make the repair. Without the wiring diagrams and logic, we will only be making educated guesses and all that leads to is shouting matches.

Do you have the wiring sketch for the control circuits ? If you do, please post. Do you have a volt ohm meter ? what experience do you have working with 115/230 volt circuits ? What is the disconnect for power to the pump and the chlorinator control circuit - plug or hardwired ? make sure you have power supply to the pump and the chlorinator circuits disconnected. Don’t rely on a circuit breaker alone. It might be just a loose/corroded wire connection OR a weak coil, if dual coil, on the contactor, weak output from the chlorinator control circuit, or contaminated/fouled contacts on the switch or chlorinator output circuit if it uses an interposing relay.

I think if you suspend the artwork a few cm from the wall, it will trap a little more sound as well. I suspect you will need to cover a large fraction of the wall unless you are just trying to deaden the reflection directly behind a person. just curious, why inset into the wall ?

Reminds me of the Cutter John strips in Bloom County and The Academia Waltz years ago. Warp speed, Mr Spock !

Secondly, your immune system retains some response even if it has been longer than 6 months since you had that specific vaccine.

Each of the vaccines targets a slightly different portion of the spike protein. There was some evidence presented by studies for the US FDA that showed an increased effectiveness in preventing serious illness. Not huge, but an increase. I believe the specific comparison was between Pfizer and Moderna vaccines at the time.

Or even your 45 year old Thai wife ????

I would think twice about placing batteries and charging electronics under a stairway, particularly if that is the only way down from the second floor occupied space. batteries also release heat when charging and that heat needs to go somewhere so the batteries stay within operating limits.

Don’t forget surge protection (MOVs) on the AC feed to the property. Cheap insurance. Replace every decade or so or when the indicator light goes out.

And when it does go wrong with a closed kitchen tap, the bursting heater internal line or joint will spray whatever volume present in the unit of superheated water followed by hot water. Any flesh in the way of the water/steam mixture will get instant 2nd and 3rd degree burns. How likely depends on the details of the unit’s control design and built in safeties. That is what the thermal pressure relief valve guards against. Works the same for an ordinary tank type water heater with the only difference being the volume.

Three lightning strikes within 100 ft of my house in as many years convinced me of using supply MOVs + a set at each device. Won’t be adequate for a direct hit, but so far, so good. Probably about time to change out the one at the mains as it has been 10+ years.

Mine will do that in response to stress or randomly. My house builder had same thing that gradually became worse until he blacked out in the shower and was resuscitated with an adf shock. Two days later he was the proud owner of a pacemaker. Go see a cardiologist wherever you live and they may give you a monitor to wear for a month or two. The events usually pass quickly so by the time you get rigged up it is over, one way or the other, and without the monitor the doc won’t know what is going on for sure.

Here is a simple user test to determine how long the ups will allow the cameras + nvr to function. Get everything installed, charged up, and verified to work. Then, turn off power to the system and let the ups do its job. Start your timer. Note the duration when the system starts failing. Done.

At least there was a spot for a 3mm tip in the plastic case in the picture.

Yeah, yeah, i know . West meets East. Lol.

Find a licensed electrical engineer to design your system. Or possibly a master electrician from a reputable firm familiar with the code requirements.

What are the amps and number of phases/poles for the major devices ? Ovens in the US are typically hard wired ( no plug) , 2 120v phases, and require a separate breaker. Good idea to put microwave on dedicated circuit, 20 amp (US) as you don’t want to have two high current users on same circuit and trip the breaker repeatedly leading to a weak breaker over time. Dishwasher may pull 10-15 amps and is another candidate for a dedicated circuit. Other than that, i think our rule of thumb was no more than 6 plugs per breaker for typical low-moderate current plug in devices. Any plug within 6ft of water had to be gfci.. that being said, code may have changed and you should do some research in the local electric codes.

From what i could see of the tips, was the H3 too small and the 1/8 hex key , i assume on the cluster, also too small ?

Or a 3.2 mm Allen. That is a rare beast.

Forgot that. Now all we need is an inside caliper ….

Likely a 3.5 mm hex key socket given that it is between the two T sizes.