IsaanT

There's a big lesson here for everyone - use it or lose it. Exercise is good for joints (and muscle maintenance and growth, and bone density, and circulation, and mental health...). I used to play squash 2-3 times a week in my late teens. I suspect I was more enthusiastic than skilled, and I recognised that the pounding on my knees was not going to be good over time (many middle-aged squash players have bad leg joints) so I gave up squash at 20. Now, at 64, I walk, cycle (outdoor and indoor), use a rowing machine (water rower - makes lovely splashy sounds, just like the real thing) and pick up the occasional kettle bell. I don't do anything excessively but I do enough to maintain my health and fitness. A few minutes a day - just 10-15 - can make a real difference. My smartwatch tells me I have a fitness age of 55 and a resting heart rate of 49, so it appears to be working. I know it's hot here but low-impact exercises are essential if you wish to enjoy old age. Indoor bikes and rowing machines (and perhaps floor exercises or yoga) are easily achievable here. It's never too late to start (gently)!

The Azerbaijan Airlines plane was shot, most probably by anti-aircraft fire. If you look carefully at the pictures that are available, the hole damage is from the outside going in. This debunks the suggestions that there was an internal explosion, or that one of the engines fragmented (the holes are in the tail, a long distance from the engines). So, I conclude that the airliner was a friendly-fire incident (even though it was around 600 miles east of any position reached by Ukrainian drones to date). With regard to the safety of the Russian shadow fleet of tankers, there are several salient characteristics to be understood: Older Ships: Many of the vessels in the shadow fleet are older and may not meet modern safety or environmental standards. These ships were often built in the 1990s or early 2000s and are generally less efficient or less reliable than newer, more modern tankers. Their age and condition can make them less seaworthy, and they may require more maintenance or face higher risks of mechanical failure. Unseaworthiness: Some of these vessels are indeed considered unseaworthy by international standards. They may lack the necessary safety certifications or be in poor condition due to limited maintenance and the difficulty in accessing quality spare parts. Because these ships are often banned from international markets, their operations are confined to specific regions or routes, where they can operate with less oversight. Uninsured: Due to the sanctions and the reluctance of major global insurers to cover Russian vessels, many of these ships sail without proper insurance. This poses significant risks in case of accidents, spills, or other incidents, as the owners or operators may not have the financial backing to cover potential damages. Flagging: To evade detection and inspection, many of these vessels change their flags regularly. They might register under countries with more lenient regulations, known as "flags of convenience" (e.g., Liberia, Panama, or smaller nations with fewer maritime regulations). Some vessels also operate under "ghost flags," where the ship may not have a registered flag at all or might falsely display a different nationality to avoid scrutiny. Just bringing some facts to the discussion.

As an amused bystander, I've found this thread both interesting and informative. I now know that I should treat contributions from: CallumWK Ralf001 FritSikkink BritManToo & Bday Prang ... with caution. Apologies if the rest of you are already aware of this but I only visit here occasionally and I'm still learning.

I would be interested to hear your suggestions for how procedures could be amended to filter out this type of undesirable...

Wind speed at height should not be underestimated. I have an app on my watch that shows me the local conditions (see photo below). The different coloured arrows show different speed ranges - you tap on one of the arrows to get the displayed speed. The interesting thing about this photo is that it was taken at 06:30 and there was no apparent wind at ground level. The leaves in the trees near me were not moving and tall grass was absolutely stationary. However, I was fascinated by the fact that a Chula kite was flying in a farmer's field near me, and making its characteristic sound (apologies if you live in a city and are unfamiliar with these rural practices). I looked at my watch app and the wind at 320 metres height was 20kph, ample to keep the kite flying (as it had all night). This is why you will invariably get strong wind warnings from your drone at altitude, even though it seemed fine at ground level when you launched.

I've got a DJI Mini 2. If you're not a pro the DJI Minis are all you'll ever need. The latest Minis have more obstacle avoidance tech but I would strongly endorse the common-sense approach of only flying it while you have direct sight of it. I've had my one for a few years and it's been completely reliable. Performance is more than adequate and picture and video quality are fine. Its ability to hover in one spot in a gusty wind is wonderful, and the self-levelling gimball-mounted camera completely removes any apparent movement. Just buy some spare propellor blades for when you inadvertently make contact with something while flying (ask me how I know...). Batteries on mine last around 20 minutes and it's surprising how quickly that time goes when you're sightseeing with it so KhunLa's earlier recommendation to get the 'Fly More' package is sound - I can easily use two or three batteries in a session once I get it out. If you go ahead and get something - and you should - do take the time to read the instruction manual from cover to cover. They have a surprising number of functions, many of which are parameterised, and you'll want to be in complete control of it at all times. Apart from being able to choose the best flight modes and camera settings for your particular missions, you'll want to understand what to do when it is giving you warnings (high wind, signal loss, low battery, etc.). At the price I wouldn't call them a toy but they're easy to fly and great fun.

I had several big bikes in the UK. I now have a Honda Click 160 here and the brakes, suspension and performance are fine for my requirement here which is to get around locally when there is no point walking, using the car, one of my bicycles or our tandem. The CVT transmission works really well - good acceleration from standstill if required, and immediate acceleration at any speed because it's always in a good ratio; I certainly don't miss being able to change gears when I'm riding it. Regularly seeing over 110mpg is a pleasant bonus too. Lastly, I use it to transport two sacks of fish food every ten days (they go on the floorboards in front of the seat), which is something bigger bikes might have a problem with. I also have a Royal Enfield 500 Classic for when I wish to ride out of the local area (I think the RE is the most attractive bike I've ever owned and no amount of arguing will change my mind...). Neither of these bikes would be much fun in the UK. In Thailand they're both ideal, primarily because average speeds are lower here.

Hi, as an experienced UK beekeeper, I'd be wary of the freeflow-type hives. There's too many ways for bees to gum them up. Do a bit of research on propolis. Just get a normal hanging-frame hive, like the ones in the pictures above in this thread. They've worked for hundreds of years and will continue to do so. Besides, if freeflow-type hives were all they meant to be then commercial beekeepers would adopt them because commercial beekeepers are all about speed and simplicity, with them often having hundreds of hives to maintain - but they don't.

Out here in rural Thailand, hardly anyone wears a helmet around the villages, me included. However, if I'm heading out of the local area on the big bike, I wear one every time because I'll be exceeding the 40kph that I might do locally on the scooter. If I resided in Pattaya, Phuket or Bangkok, I'd wear one every time because traffic density is immensely greater there (we only get traffic density if there is a queue at the one traffic light in the district). I am happy to state that in the UK I had advanced driving licences (IAM) for bikes and cars. I am also MENSA level IQ so not daft (and don't have tattoos). I know how to ride assertively but defensively and I appear to possess levels of anticiption far in excess of local Thais. In short, I'm content with my ability to avoid trouble, even Thais.

Agreed. Perhaps you have to be 6o+ to appreciate this. Being able to continue for hours (as OP stated) is an advantage that some young blokes can only dream of. Make the most of the advantages.

I have to admit that when I arrived here for my retirement about 18 months ago I did find some Thai driving annoying (the undertaking, the poor signalling, the pulling in front of you only to slow down and turn off the road, etc.). However, I am in their country; they are not in mine (UK). Thai drivers receive little (if any) training, don't have to pass a test to the same level of proficiency as most of us are familiar with, and there is little in the way of traffic law enforcement. I have adjusted. I drive more defensively and, usefully, the average speed is much slower than we are probably familiar with back home so that's one bonus from a safety and economy point-of-view.

All other Trump policies and pronouncements aside, as an Englishman I am envious of the energy and motivation being directed at illegal immigrants. Any serious political opposition should take note that this is what the English electorate will want to hear after five years of two-tier Kier.

Is it viable to do what many of us do and keep the phone in your pocket, with vibration turned on for additional awareness? As previously mentioned, my smart watch (Garmin) also vibrates when a call comes in, even if the phone is in another room.

If anyone knows how I can reclaim the three minutes of my life that I've spent getting down this inane thread, I'd be very grateful to know...

Referring back to the original post... I'd like to suggest a few things to consider. Stress Management: While the OP mentioned trying meditation, it would be good to find a stress-reducing activity that resonates personally, whether that’s yoga, tai chi, or even just regular walks in nature. Chronic stress can impact overall health and libido. Sleep Quality: How good is the OP's sleep? The usual advice is the best, such as establishing a consistent bedtime routine, limiting screen time before bed, or creating a calming sleep environment. Quality of sleep is often overlooked but crucial for overall health. Balanced Diet: While the OP mentioned that he's focusing on healthy eating, specific foods known to support hormonal health and circulation include avocados, nuts, and fatty fish (rich in omega-3s). Consult a Nutritionist: It may be worth having a session with a registered dietitian who can provide tailored advice based on his specific health and dietary needs. Hormone Levels: Maybe consider a check-up with a healthcare provider to evaluate hormone levels, particularly testosterone. Low testosterone can significantly affect libido and performance. I hope this helps.

I understand but without sufficient underlying bandwidth, performance will always be constrained. Here's the full picture of what's important for good torrent download performance: 1. Internet Connection Speed: This is the foundation of download speed, but it’s only part of the equation. Having a high-speed connection (like fiber or cable broadband) is crucial, but other factors can limit download performance even with a fast connection. 2. Torrent Health (Seeders and Leechers): Seeders are people sharing the complete file, while leechers are downloading it. A torrent with a high number of seeders relative to leechers will generally download faster, as more seeders means more data sources. A torrent with few seeders may download very slowly, even with a high-speed connection, as there’s limited data available. 3. Client Configuration: Torrent clients (like BitTorrent, uTorrent, or qBittorrent) allow some customization that can impact speed: Max connections: Setting a high maximum number of connections lets the client connect to more seeders, but setting it too high can reduce performance. Upload speed limits: Many clients work best with some upload bandwidth allocated to maintain a good share ratio. Limiting upload speed too severely may result in the client throttling download speeds. 4. Port Forwarding: Torrents rely on peer-to-peer (P2P) connections, so ensuring that the client can communicate freely over the internet can be important. Enabling port forwarding on your router for the port used by the torrent client allows for direct connections, which can speed up downloads. If this isn’t set, the connection might be restricted by NAT (Network Address Translation), impacting speed. 5. ISP Throttling: Some internet service providers (ISPs) throttle or limit speeds for P2P traffic to manage bandwidth, which can reduce torrent speed even with a fast connection. Checking if the ISP engages in throttling and using a VPN (Virtual Private Network) can sometimes bypass these restrictions, as it encrypts traffic and masks its source. 6. VPN Usage: VPNs can protect privacy but can also slow down connections if the VPN server is far away or overloaded. If privacy is a priority, selecting a high-speed VPN server close to your location helps maintain speeds. 7. Router and Network Stability: A good router that supports high-speed, stable connections and P2P traffic management is beneficial. Using an outdated or low-end router can limit maximum connection speeds and the number of simultaneous connections. A high-speed connection is essential, but ensuring that torrents have many seeders, configure the client well, enabling port forwarding, and using a good router (or a VPN if ISP throttling is an issue) can all make a noticeable difference in torrent download speeds. I hope this helps.

AIS Fibre broadband. 533THB per month. Should be enough for anyone's domestic requirements.

Is it '... a trail of terror' or '... a tale of terror'. Probably the former but not '... a tail of terror'.

I expect you're right - the packaging alone probably cost 5% of the total to design and produce... 😄 However, I don't have the ability to design and build something myself so the sound improvement is worth every penny to me as all these incremental gains add up.

I understand your sentiment, in principle. I, too, had a long and happy career in IT and am typically very logical. However, I found water on my land here in Thailand using a pair of bent sticks. The well digger told me it was a very strong water supply so we fitted a 1500w solar pump and had it running all day for weeks in April (dry season - lowest water table levels) to fill my new pond. Nobody can explain water divining scientifically but that doesn't mean it doesn't work. 😉

It's when people produce gold-plated terminals on Toslink (optical) cables that I smell snake oil...

I've got a circa £1,000 external power supply for my DAC (Digital Analogue Converter). It provides better quality electricity to the DAC, even though the DAC has its own internal power supply and can be plugged straight into the mains. Does the external power supply make a difference, after all 240v AC is 240 volts, isn't it? The difference is immediately audible and my friends and family can hear it too. The improved clarity reveals things in the recordings that you hadn't heard before. To paraphrase the great British audio component manufacturer Quad, I try to get the closest approach to the original sound. Most of the audio 'black magic' that people talk about (better cables, power supplies, anti-vibration mountings, etc.) can work and cause a noticeable increase in sound quality but will probably not work if not matched carefully. For example, not all expensive cables might sound better on a particular system but almost anything should be better than twin-core bell wire. Personally, I would try to get a Thai welding shop to create something because the fundamental requirements are basic. It needs to have a lot of mass and rigidity, i.e. thick steel. A filling inside a hollow stand is good, as has already been discussed. Sand is good for dampening vibrations, as the vibrations can be absorbed by the friction of the grains of sand moving against each other. Lead shot is denser and can provide a more substantial mass to minimise ringing and unwanted noise. A combination of the two would be possible, i.e. lead shot in the bottom half of the stand for improved mass (low c of g) and the top half filled with sand. If I was getting stands commissioned, I would also think about how to route the speaker cable(s) inside the stand at the bottom and exiting at the top near the connectors for improved aesthetics. Having created the rigid stand, you then have the choice of mounting the speakers on felt (or similar pads) to isolate them from the stands or bolting them rigidly to the stand. Bigger speakers, such as the OP alludes to, probably benefit from being connected rigidly. Isolation mounting typically gives a more natural sound. Experimentation is necessary to achieve the best sound for the listener but that's all part of the fun, as I expect the OP knows. Floor mounting is the final touch. This is typically done with spikes. Spikes allow for effective coupling between the speaker and the floor and help to improve the clarity (not level!) of the bass, among other things. When placed at the corners of a stand or speaker they facilitate even distribution of vibrational energy, allowing it to dissipate from the cabinet into the ground. This "purging" of vibrations helps to control resonances that could otherwise interfere with sound clarity. Rubber pads would be better than nothing if spikes are unacceptable, e.g. the speakers are to be mounted on a nice polished wooden floor. Stainless steel is the preferred material for metal spikes. Lastly, great sounding hi-fi is not about volume, it's about sound quality. Many listeners with loud systems need to have them loud to make their system produce some of the sounds they expect or wish to hear but these may be produced at the expense of excessive sound levels in the other frequencies. A high-quality system can sound excellent at moderate sound levels because all the right sounds are being produced, e.g. just like listening to an accoustic player or band - natural sounds, no amplification necessary.

Imagine a really, really big number. So big that you can't even imagine how big it is. Now, imagine a number that's even bigger than that. And then another number bigger than that. You can keep going on and on, making the numbers bigger and bigger forever. That's infinity. It's a number that's so big that it's impossible to count to the end. It's like a never-ending journey. No matter how far you go, there's always more to explore.

I had the same problem recently when I advertently drove over a "wet" road surface, only to realise that it was liquid tar sprayed on the road surface (there were no signs or warnings but when I went round a bend I then saw the road builders' vehicles). PLEASE ignore any suggestions that abrasive methods work - the vehicle's paint will be damaged. Use a solvent, as mentioned several times already, perhaps with gentle, non-abrasive scraping if you have large lumps. I used WD-40 but the others suggested will work. I didn't bother cleaning the wheel well arches - I regard it as extra protection. Any protective surface on the paint will be removed by this process but the surface will not be damaged. Polishing the paintwork afterwards is a good idea and will help to protect the paint and make it easier to clean subsequently.

235THB + delivery on Lazada. No brainer.