dinga

We've all overdosed on your asinine comments - pray that you go away and find something useful to do. While I have successfully ignored most of them, I can't ignore the "No extra use of infrastructure...." So who do you think pays for all of the infrastructure & benefits that you expect and use in Thailand? A Freeloader who whinges about making any contribution - no matter how modest - is a powerful advocate for the opposite of what he/she espouses

Crossy - see answers IN CAPS below: Are you saying that you see 39V at the input side of the breaker when it is off (open) and that drops to 7V when you turn it on (closed)? YES That would suggest that your pump is now pulling too much current for the panel, or possibly you have a bad connection in your wiring panel to breaker 😞 WHAT IS THE 'WIRING PANEL'???? IS THIS AT THE SOLAR PANEL???? I HAVE NEEDED TO ATTEND - A COUPLE OF TIMES NOW - TO THE MC4 CONNECTORS I'VE PLUGGED INTO THE PANEL CONNECTORS. ....[THINK LAST TIME THERE WAS VERY LOW VOLTAGE AT THE PANEL-SIDE OF THE BREAKER - NOT SO THIS TIME] COULD BAD CONNECTIONS BE THE CAUSE ???? Do you have a couple of car/bike batteries you can connect to get 24V and feed the pump directly? GUESS I CAN TRY AND GET A COUPLE - HOW ARE THE BATTERIES CONNECTED - +VE TO +VE; -VE TO -VE???

UPDATE - Help/Advice still Needed! 1. The problem (non-working) pump was retrieved and sent for check by the supplier. Supplier reports the pump is in perfect working order - and attached a video clip to show that. Also confirmed the waterproof seal is intact but there was mixed/no advice about the maximum submerged depth [I had located it at about 11.5 metres] 2. In the meantime, I bought another sub pump [3SYDC 24V / S2.0 - 40 : DC 24V, 300W] which I connected to the existing 340W panel, and which is positioned at a maximum depth of 7 metres in the Wet Season (more like 5 metres now). The pump worked faultlessly for 2 weeks until it stopped pumping 2 days ago. My trusty multi-meter records 39.7 Volts at the input side of the breaker when closed - but this drops to 7Volts when the breaker is opened. Seems to be the problem as before.... Any ideas, guys????

ALL YOU HAND-WRINGING CHICKEN LITTLES...... take a look at today BP where the TRD talks about reducing Income Tax collections globally providing the impetus for countries to move towards comprehensive tax reforms - in the Thai context = including progressively raising the 7% VAT and imposing Wealth Taxes on Thai's who previously had escaped the RTD net by stashing wealth offshore. The latter is the context for the push for disclosure of WW income. Farangs may (eventually) suffer collateral damage but we ain't the targets....

What an extraordinary video [and admission] by Hart. The OP's correct summation that 'After a fiery battle Benjamin of "Integrity Legal" seems to have finally been beaten down by the tax debate and came the final conclusion. If Thailand won't enforce laws regarding foreigners operating in restricted occupations why are they going to enforce these tax laws?' I'm flabbergasted that any advisor with years of experience in Thailand can provide professional advice without regard to/understanding of the local - including enforcement - environment. There's a very important takeaway here, folks.

That makes 2 of us that don't understand....... My understanding of ETT;s advice re. LTR visa holders: 1. If income was earnt overseas in (say) 2023 but remitted to Thailand during 2024 - No Tax Payable on such remittances 2. If income was earnt overseas in (say) 2024 and was remitted to Thailand during 2024, such income is subject to Thai Tax and likely needs to be reported in the Tax Return to be lodged by 31 March 2025.

LTR VISA - may not be the panacea folks seem to be assuming. One takeaway from yesterday's ExpatTaxThailand Webinar was that the old Rules (pre-2024) on remittances continue to apply to LTR Visas ie. in order to be Non-Taxable, remittances must be made in any year other than in the year the income was earnt. It will be Taxable if remitted in the same year it was earnt. Must admit that I have not been closely following LTR implications so my takeaway may not be entirely accurate. But it seems to me that there may be widespread misunderstanding based on ETT's clear advice yesterday.

I hate the moron, but to be fair he DID NOT say he will deport ALL Immigrants. He said he would deport all ILLEGAL Immigrants. Truth Matters

Just to recap.......the Sub Pump is 250W, 24V and 8A. The Solar Panel is 340W, 24V, Imp 8.84A Attached is a page from the Pump manual which recommends a single 275W Panel for this Pump. Based on this recommendation, I shouldn't need a second Panel. Could it be that I need to buy a 275W Panel to replace the current (sic) 340W Panel????

Thanks - apols but I'm struggling to understand why there is such a drop-off in Voltage between when the Breaker is Closed and Open. This morning (it was very overcast), and I got the following measurements: * Breaker Closed: Voltage +40.6V; -4.25A [172.5W] * Breaker Open: Voltage: +3.7V; -4.27A [15.8W] If there likely something else at play here??? (realise I need to go back and relook at Fruit Traders Youtube link). Is there anything odd about the Amp readings showing Negative Numbers??? Seems like you're dead right about needing another panel to deliver the 8 Amp to the pump. But if I get another one, am I still going to fall way short Voltage wise (ie. 3.7 V X 2 = 7.4V). Today's readings from my Fountain Pump [0.5HP = 370W; 24V; 13A] are also confounding - and this pump is performing well. * 31V; 3.3A = 102W. Begs the question why the low Amp reading hasn't caused any problems. Sorry to be a pest

No - I was too dumb to do that. As I said - hubris about the pontoon mounting of the panel, and confidence following the success with the fountain pump

Thanks. Must admit to being a bit at a loss as to why the pump is designed to not require a controller..... Also, my floating solar fountain pump operates direct from a solar panel, with a breaker in between.....[Confused!} So what do I need - something like these??????? https://www.lazada.co.th/tag/solar-power-controller/?q=solar power controller&catalog_redirect_tag=true Any specific recommendations given the info I've provided above? Am I correct in assuming that the Breaker is no longer required if a controller is used????

I'm pretty well ignorant of this stuff, but I don't think that's the problem. Correct me if I' wrong here.... The Specs say the Pump has * Power 250W; * Current: 8A; * Voltage 24-36V. The Panel's sticker says * 340W; * Max Power (Vmp) = 38.5V; * VoC: 46.4V * Current Imp: 8.84V I relooked at the Pump manual which says the Power from the solar panel should be 1.5 times the solar pump power ie. for a 250W solar pump, the panel should be rated 375W. As indicated above, the panel is actually rated 340W. It's only a 10% difference - could that be the problem???

1. The pump is still down the bore (I'm hoping I won't need to pull it out...). Best I can do at this stage is to attached photos of the box it came in and the following Specs from a couple of sales sites https://shopee.co.th/C.T.L-ปั๊มน้ำซับเมอร์ส-DC-12V150w-24V250w-36V300w-บ่อขนาด-3-นิ้ว-ท่อออก-1นิ้ว-i.897800305.25755007784 https://www.amazon.co.uk/NDNCZDHC-3SYDC24V-Electric-Submersible-Fishing/dp/B0C9QQYFZ2 2. There is no controller 3. I also attached a photo of the pond set-up FYI (hubris got me until I've continue to fail to get the pump working...) Any more thoughts????

PS Confirmed by multimeter!