sometimewoodworker

Both Daikin and Mitsubishi have models that have motion/occupation sensors. For Mitsubishi look at the Move Eye models

There are materials that you cast over the epoxy before it hardens (sand is one) that are specifically designed to sop it becoming too slippery when wet.

The inexpensive ant powder seems remarkably effective. I now add some to any fitting, lights, Ethernet and power, this has virtually eliminated all problems we used to have. One application seems to be protective for years. The powder under is one of quite a few, they all seem equally effective.

The problem you will have is that any pre-made door will be a torsion box structure and will only permit a small adjustment in size before it becomes unusable. AFIK there are few if any small plain white melamine doors available on spec, but good luck on your search. I long ago decided that making things myself was much easier than trying to find anything slightly unusual.

The battens are to stiffen the carcass panels not the doors. For doors you are best advised to use a torsion box structure

Hardly, but it may not be quite as cheap as @Crossy said. I, not too long ago, was trying to find a replacement motor for one of my tools, they are not available. So I went down to our local electrical fix it shop and had the motor rewound, while it is rather larger than the motor you are needing to get fixed AFIR it was about 3,000 baht. For me it was the only option and I was happy to pay it, for other uses it is likely to be too expensive.

As it’s going to be a built-in the comment about thinness of the veneer does not apply and several cuts don’t need to be chip free, also the thickness of the board isn’t a factor as you can add glued on battens to the back of the boards to stiffen them. FWIW I think my boards are 12mm plywood

Standard sized sheets (1220 x 2400) with a laminate coating are available from better wood yards, I have some in stock. However the laminate is remarkably thin. You would be better advised to buy the laminate separately from the board and do it, or get it done, yourself For cutting it, use a high quality track saw and do a 0.5mm ~ 0.9mm climb score cut first. There will be no chipping of the veneer. The company I buy from makes wooden doors as well as selling wood.

There is nothing to suggest that the 30 extension will not apply. Changes to the 30 day extension are separate from changes to the entry time given for visa exempt entries. AFIK the 30 day extensions have not been changed in the past when the visa exempt period changed.

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It is rather a function of what you want to do. So for some people you are correct, for others the iPad Pro is the better machine. Personally I prefer the iPad over any Mac, and while I have several Mac’s including an M2, my use is about 99% iPad Pro and under 1% Mac. There is only 1 piece of SW that requires a Mac that can virtualise windows and that is occasional use. in short the new iPad Pro is far better than any Mac (personal opinion)

There are iPads available from ฿13,900 and 12.9” from ฿29,900. However the price of the tablet is less important that the OS you are used to and the SW that you use and own. For me any priced Android tablet is too expensive however cheap in Baht it maybe. Your choice is your choice and needs no justification.

That it certainly one option if you like the wavy wiggly line of fixing points or have the time to pre drill and then setup the boards so they are exactly in line. Your eye can see a 0.5mm difference in placement. Alternatively you can ignore the having to fix every screw in exactly the same place use, self drilling, self tapping, self countersinking screws, available from every shop by the hundreds of thousands for very little cost, and paint the boards after fixing. If you try very hard in the correct lighting you may see that the dimples made are not in line but a short time on every fixing will make them disappear. if you look carefully at the pictures I posted you can see that after just the first coat of paint the fixtures are virtually invisible.

2016 in the painting process painted 2022 as you can see perfectly sound I’m in the U.K. now so can’t post a current picture, but it is the same.

Our shera wood fence is about 6 years old none of the slats have broken. We used pre-cut slats specifically designed for fences, painted both before and after fitting, screw holes not pre drilled using self drilling screws into the steel subframe

There are a couple, or several, different kinds of screen protectors, some, like the one I currently use are easy to take off and put back, others are glass and need very careful application, yet others are a flexible film and are applied with water. The last two types can be (should be) applied by the shop selling them as if they get it wrong they don’t get paid or have to use a second piece. I would not go to an Apple Store as they don’t get the practice that an independent does. you should not pay extra for the product being applied it should be included in the sale price and is expected to be.

I started with 2 pairs of HomePod Mini’s 2 years ago, increased the number to a total of 10 Mini’s then got a pair of HomePods during a trip to Singapore. All of mine were purchased before Apple released them here. The answer is yes I am happy with them, though I probably don’t need any more. FWIW a pair of HomePods or HomePod mini’s are significantly better as stereo pairs. They are good individually but 1+1 = 3+

They also have the HomePod Mini, I currently have 8 or 10 Mini’s mostly as stereo pairs, and a pair of HomePods. The HomePod is quite expensive, the Mini’s, not so much

It is unlikely that immigration will transfer anything from the damaged passport to a non new passport. His case is not at all usual and maybe unique. His difficulty is exiting Thailand with a damaged passport, you say that the biodata page is undamaged. The machine readable section of the passport is the 2 lines of characters at the bottom of the biodata page, which you say are totally fine. The data on the chip is a cross check for the machine readable characters on the biodata page. It is certainly possible that a damaged chip may require him to get a new passport to exit. It is also equally possible that Thai immigration will ignore the chip as long as it’s clear that the passport is genuine. You are unlikely to find anyone else who has the same problem so a visit immigration is the only real answer My advice would be to go directly to his local immigration office and ask for their take on the situation. once he has left Thailand there is zero chance of a problem as he then uses his undamaged passport. FWIW I just replaced my passport in the U.K. it took 4 working days from application to having it in my hand.

There is no official requirement for either system to get TOU. However the PEA head of your office can and does have his own rules, it is likely that he has a limited supply of metres and has set the priority to be solar and EV. He is probably persuadable to change your priority. However without either solar or EV your electricity bill is going to jump significantly as daytime TOU cost is roughly 25%higher than you currently pay, so not changing the meter is saving you money and him from your complaints.

That is exactly as @Crossy described and for the majority of uses it will do the job perfectly well. Unfortunately it will also bend the wood out of straight to a minute degree, The wood (or any other) packing strips will compress a bit bending the wood unless you don’t tighten the screws then there is not much point in putting them in. If you shave down the back of the wood so it matches the wall shape, then screw it down, you should have a little deformation as your skill in shaping wood allows. if you don’t mind that your extrusion gets slightly deformed then the simple fast way will do the job perfectly. If you need the extrusion to be perfect then spending the time to fit the wood profile will pay dividends.

The best way would be to use the cabinet fitters technique of contouring the back of a wood strip to the wall, while @Crossys idea of using a piece of hardwood is partly correct, used in his suggested way it will no longer be straight if you are putting screws through it, into air, then into the wall. That will almost always either immediately or over time cause the wood to bend, you may have success if the wood is about 200mm+ square but even then a bend is possible, for the vast majority of uses the bend would be insignificant but for @OneMoreFarangs purposes it would be likely to bend his profile.

The assumption of an inexperienced poster can often be made when not every scenario has been explained in the detail and manor that someone who has seemingly only ever been exposed to a subset of situations is expecting. From experience as well as the knowledge of the basic physics that @JBChiangRai has well explained, the cure suggested of larger cabling could be a part of the problem that @zlodnick is experiencing, this is unlikely to be the fix as the PEA has visited on 4 consecutive days, and while there is a significant lack of belief by some in the competence of the training required to become an electrician for the PEA this is a canard, the PEA has excellent well trained employees, though I don’t know if they also have muppets, it is less likely that all of local staff are incompetent. The statement that the the only other “fix” than larger supply from the meter to the house, would be to move the house closer to the supply is a possible answer but again is fanciful, impractical, likely impossible and does not guarantee a cure. There are other, more likely, correct answers that have not been thought of but @zlodnick will have difficulty getting implemented. The first, least likely answer, is that the PEA were incompetent in their calculations and the mains cables are too small. The situation is much more probably that when the current low voltage transformer (low voltage, in that it is suppling 220v) was installed the PEA load calculations assumed the usual load demand for Thai houses. Over time the households gained wealth and now are making a significantly larger demand. Also likely foreigners have built or upgraded houses. This means that in the daytime when many are out of the houses the PEA calculated load is not exceeded, but come evening when the microwaves, IR cookers, TVs, hot showers and AC units are all getting used there is insufficient PEA power or the installed transformer was undersized so isn’t able to cope with demand. If the second scenario is correct the only people who can fix the problem are the PEA who likely don’t have the budget (though reducing tea consumption could help). One of the fixes the PEA may be able to do is to change the transformer tap. Commonly there are 3 available on the transformers this may be an answer unless the transformer is maxed out already. Another fix that is possible is to change which phase the transformer is on, this is dependent on the location of the 3 phase supply (usually at 22k) A third fix, though the most expensive, and dependant on the PEA load availability, is installing, at the customer’s expense a new transformer (this then becomes PEA property and can have other users added without consent from the person paying for it. All in all an AVR is a relatively cheap answer to test and while it will increase the load on the current section of the network it maybe enough for @zlodnick. It may also make the voltage drops for other users annoying enough that they will put more pressure on the PEA and persuade them that your section is higher on the list for upgrading.

That is precisely one of the fundamental functions of an AVR/AVS, it regulates over and under voltage to maintain the optimum (220v, other voltages are available, ) output. There are certainly some extremes that it can’t fix but then usually has a Hi/Low voltage cut contactor for the extremes, if not they are simple enough to fit.

Again you are misquoting I said Exactly the opposite Corrected wording That is absolutely true but irrelevant Again it is true but it fails to address the point It not only holds the heat for very significantly longer but because of that it gives a greater total heat load into the roof space. If your insulation, ventilation etc doesn’t allow your ceiling to heat up at all the fact that you get a greater heat load above the ceiling means that any roof material is perfectly OK. That however would be a very unusual situation as usually nobody bothers with that level of insulation