sometimewoodworker

if the video is the extent of the problem the DIY fix is likely to function, be effective and reasonably easy to try. if it’s the problem I will elaborate.

@GammaGlobulin giving To much information “ The AC is not working” or “the AC is about to explode” You know what the problem is but telling them is not going to help you. They have to realises it themselves and give a solution. The problem is extreme noise at some fan speeds. They have to solve the problem Their solution maybe “replace the complete outside unit” They probably can’t fix the real problem because they don’t have components. The “fix” may cost 100 x the real fix but that’s their problem not yours.

At this point you have 2 real options. 1 make the instal technician return giving a little information as possible so they can witness the problem, claim that there are more different problems you can’t describe so they must attend. 2) play around with fan blade weights to change the harmonic It is absolutely a problem of a harmonic vibration, however just because the fan is producing the vibration does not mean that something else is not responding to the movement of the fan. The "high-pitched" rattling sound, is either a loose component or 2 components that are rubbing due to the vibration. The self cure is to discover exactly where the noise originates and put a block or rubber/foam between them. to locate the sound use a mechanics stethoscope. Option 1 is preferable in reality there probably is no real guarantee beyond the “its working” and you are on your own. Unfortunately you have discovered why buying one of the big names is worth the extra money they cost.

It is clear from your description that there is a harmonic vibration at certain speeds. Yes the first step should be the installation company followed by the maker. Were this an older unit the answer would be different and would involve some or all the following, adding bracing, adding different shock absorbent mounts, tightening all bolts, adding very small weights (many higher end fans come with these) on to the blades to move the harmonic, adding rubber sheet to the casing, moving the outdoor unit in relation to the wall. etc. As to the cause it’s difficult to be sure as the drive is to reduce energy use and what you consider to be cheaping out on materials is not doing that but saving energy. The fan may well be faulty as for sure the original design will not have had this problem. FWIW while HVAC people may have a good understanding, it’s a fluid dynamic problem

So you don’t know the difference between constant current drivers and constant voltage drivers? It is certainly possible that the land down under has regulations that make that knowledge redundant, but since we are not governed by those idiosyncratic rules we can have a more flexible approach. 😜

Having lived in Japan for a third of my life I can comment with authority. When I first lived there the difference in general was that Japan was 8 to 10 time more expensive. However the relative cost of beer in Japan was that a bottle of beer (larger than in Thailand by 10%) cost about 20 minutes work. The smaller (but still large bottle) in Thailand cost about 3 hours work, these are all takeout prices. So in absolute terms beer in Japan is more expensive. In relative terms beer in Thailand costs more than 10 times the price in Japan FWIW there has been zero to negative inflation in Japan for about 30 years so now Thailand is around ½ the Japanese costs

If you follow the pictures and caveat. then there are no problem if however you decide to use the kinds of recycled versions then you either know what you are doing, get lucky or are aiming to win a Darwin Award The general guide is that small capacitors are like small cats, they may bite but don’t do anything more than that. The bigger the capacitor the bigger the bite, big fan starter and motor starter capacitors are designed to kick a large inertial load into motion so short them out or get a rather significant understanding of the power they contain

Not all AC units work as yours. A couple of mine don’t show a temperature in humidity control mode, another does so, QED I can set a higher than ambient temperature in humidity mode

You clearly don’t have an answer as the tingle from the type of capacitor suggested (which will not happen if you short it out) is far less than from the mains If you are going to repurpose a capacitor from an old TV or microwave then you have to know what you are doing as they can kill

He is actually living on the isle of Mann and was the inspiration for the modification, however the rather long instructional video is lost in the annals of time. I have never seen another but if you have links I would appreciate them. the reason was for the people who know how to avoid the bites from electricity to have an easy cheap way to have fun. I deliberately did not include instructions for those who are not already conversant with power but may not have an electronics background. I have also had this light on for months A point is that there is no rewireing of the light it’s in the fitting

While that is a possibility, don’t forget that the unit is virtually new.

Electricity can bite, it can bite badly if you don’t know what you are doing, don’t do it There is far too much nanny going on. In Thailand there a vanishing few electricians, the method above can multiply the life of lights to decades, it reduces the power requirements by up to a factor of ten.

Yes I am sure “for those who are moderately confident and competent with plugging wire A into socket B it is simple reasonably easy, and totally reversible” and if you are moderately competent you know how to test you setup before installing it. I would like to know how it can go badly wrong? this is not for it is for those who, as I said are moderately confident and competent with plugging wire A into socket B if you are not then don’t do it, simple.

you can just plug the capacitor legs into the blue and brown in your picture

Use 2 of these or something similar colour code red power from the switch blue power to the light white one leg of the capacitor I can’t immediately find my capacitors so you must use imagination you can use the Thai system of twisting all 3 wires together

Going on from @sandyfs problems with the LEDs burning out quickly. This is not a sure fire way for all LEDs but for those who are moderately confident and competent with plugging wire A into socket B it is simple reasonably easy, and totally reversible. warning anyone following the instructions takes total personal responsibility. This doesn’t mean that there is much/any significant chance of failure or accidents but electricity and capacitors do bite as @Crossy said requirements a series of capacitors in a variety of powers (thanks @Crossy for the picture under) a lamp holder or several several quick connect fittings a verity of lights that are at least 2 to 4 times the required brightness (I used 27W light from China) you need several as the modification will not function with all drivers so just swap them until one works the instructions connect the power feed to 1 of your lamp holders feed wires connect the other power feed wire to one of the legs of 1 of your capacitors connect the other leg of the capacitor to the other lamp holder wire insert the bulb into the holder switch on the light possible Results the light doesn’t turn on; troubleshooting; 1) swap the power legs 2) swap the bulb 3) change the capacitor value 4) confirm that the bulb still functions in an unmodified fitting the light turns on full brightness; troubleshooting; 1) swap the bulb until you find one that turns on dimmer 2) change the capacitor value the light turns on lower brightness but is too bright or too dim; troubleshooting; 1) change the capacitor value the above tutorial too much longer to write than to do here is the light mentioned above, it would be way to bright for the location, it runs cold or barely warm, it uses less power, it has been in use for about 5 years it is around ⅓ power the fittings, I will put them into the ceiling sometime the qr fittings and the picture I borrowed

Humidity control!

So they didn’t get a picture from the land down under!!!

Handsome man ???

The glowing lights are due to the electronics. It is very easy to design the circuit so that they don’t glow but it saves a little bit to leave off the bits that cut the glow. It may stop the glow by swapping the line and neutral however it is equally possible that that is not enough. The reason for the glow is due to the extremely small current required for the LEDs to light, though I’m not an electronics engineer one usual item to control the glow is a capacitor and discharge resistor.

Talk to CW and ask them, this is because each office can make their own requirements However in my office you are always required to present 2 copies of all documents, there is no requirement for any to be in B&W only. Some of the second set are required to be in colour (photos), some don’t matter. NB this is for the marriage extension only.

That is why I buy from AliExpress, it may take up to 3 months (usually about a week) but you can get what you order and find almost anything. Yes I have had items arrive faulty, resulting in a refund. Yes I have had an incorrect item shipped, resulting in a refund or corrected item sent no cost Yes I have had an item never arrive, resulting in a refund. the percentage of problems is less than 0.01% of items purchased. The percentage of problems uncorrected is zero

Slightly interested but wrong information. The standard supply voltage in Thailand is more often a hope than a prediction. where you are in relation to the supply is going to govern the usual unloaded voltage for your situation. Where the larger consumers are in relation to you is going to govern the loaded voltage. as an example in our village the unloaded voltage is 225v anything higher is virtually never seen. The loaded voltage (we don’t have any big consumers) can go as far down as 180v or lower.

It could generate enough static electricity to have some fun with