chiangrai

! had the frames made up spechialy in the lumber yard.

They said they were made from what they call "Mai Daeng"

which means red wood.They were much more expensive than the

ready made ones.

They seem really hard when driving screws in and the grain is really fine

on the cross section after I saw it.

I don't know how moist the wood is.It would be great to not have to varnish

them.

If I do can you recomend a varnish.I see on the internet that "decking"varnish is the most expensive

so does that mean it's the best.I want a mat finish.One side of each doorframe is outside but the

ones in the back porch don't get direct sunlight.

I was thinking of painting the ones on the front because they get sun all day.

I have 5 window frames and 6 doorframes to do.

If I could just "stain and oil in one" and not varnish the shaded ones and pain the few

on that are exposed it would be great.

How do I know if they are need varnish.I've only had them made about 6 weeks ago.

I just started sanding a doorframe to get it ready to stain and varnish.

It,s a new doorframe in a new house but the builder got concrete on it

and when I sanded it off it's left dark stains on the wood.

The doorframe is made out of redwood and I was planning on using redwood

stain on it.Now I'm thinking that the stain might make it look worse.

What do you advise me to do.

Also I see on Youtube that you should use a conditioner before staining hardwoods.Is redwood a hard wood.Can you buy wood conditioner in Thailand.

"the uninstaller" is thaame of the program Lostinsiam.

I must check it out.

I've solved my proplems the only thing I interedted in now is

solveing the problem that not all programs show up on Revo.

Which is why I had these problems in the first place.

Right Pomthai........that was it.

Potplayer was still in my start up tap on task manager.

I disabled it and restarted with no problem.

I have Revo and CCleaner.I wanted to uninstall Potplayer

first day with Revo but the icon wasn't showing on it.

This happens with a lot of programs why is this.

My problem was that I had to uninstall with the windows option

and it didn't do it fully.

Firefox is updating on start up even though it updated

the last time I started the computer.

I will probably have to uninstall it and do a full clean up and reinstall.

Thanks all.

Are you saying that this problem is caused by 8.1

I would much prefer not to go to all that hassle unless

you can convince me it's worth it.

I went to program filles and found one empty Potplayer file.

I deleted it and restarted but it still wans to reinstall.

I have windiws 8.1 and I just installed Firefox and Daum potplayer.

Now everytime I restart my computer Potplayer wants to be installed

and Firefox wants to be updated.

Never happened to me before.Anyone know how to fix it.

I've actually uninstalled Potplayer,did a disk and regestery clean up and restarted the computer and the box came up "do yo want this program to make changes to this computer.

What next........

I"m not looking for perfection.I'm trying to make them look old and rough

hence the rasp.

I have an random orbital sander which I haven't used yet but I thought it wouldn't take enough

off.It would be great if it did.

I could buy a router and bit but it's not the effect I'm looking for.

So if you think that the random orbital sander wont wont work

is there an attatchment I can put on an angle grinder to do the job.

I see all sorts of strange attatchments on eBay.

I have a lot of new redwood window frames and doorframes already installed but there is no glass in the windows and no doors in the frames.They were all made in the lumder yard.

So they look very angular with all sharp edges which looks wrong with my rustic house.

So I was thinking of taking off the sharp edges before I stain and varnish them.I've done this before on a small scale and it looks great to me.

I allways used a rasp before but this time I have so much to do I need to use a power tool.

But what power tool and what attatchment.

Thank you.

All 3 are outside.

That wall putty sounds good,can it be used outside,will it shrink,is it good for the

dryboard too.

I've got 3 filling jobs to do on a house I just had built.

The first is in a concrete wall (block and morter)wich had 2 10mm holles drilled in it that were never used.

What kind of filler should I use.

Next I had a concrete wall same as before which had a doorframe set in it.I got the builder to replace the doorframe.Which he did and re-mortered the gap between the new doorframe and the wall but when the new render dried it left a large crack between it and the doorframe.

I need to fill this gap.What filler should I use.

Thirs i have a room with drywall(plasterboard)sheets on the outside with light coming through in spots.I'm not going to render these walls I just want to fill the gaps and paint it.

What king of filler should I use.

Got it .......Thanks a lot.

%%%%%%%%%%????????????????

1-- the questionmark is either shift + forward slash ...done

2--I've found the end button--It sais PgDn on top in white

and "end" in red below it.There must be another button t

to prees at the same time but it's not ctrl or shift

3-- the percentage sign is shift + 5.

I'm on windows 8.1 and the language is English US.

If I could just find what button I have to press whith the end

button I would be sorted.

Thanks a lot Pib,

I've found the questionmark.

It sounds like the it's the end key I'm looling for.It's used when you

go back and correct something half way through the line you've just typed.

When you've done the corection and want to get back to the end

of the line and continue typing there is a button for this and that's what I'm looking

for.

And this bloody corection sign,I can see it but can't operate it.

I've got a Lenova Flex 10 with a Thai keyboard.

There are somethings I can't do on it.

1- I can't find the question mark anywhere.

2-I can't find the button that you press to move the cursor to the end of the

line and

3-I can see the percentage sign,It's just to the left of the number 1.

There are 4 things on the button

1- (`) bottom left,is activated by pressing the button normally

2- (~) top left,activated when you press thelarge button with the arrow

pointing upwards on it,The one you press when you want to make

a capital letter.

3-The percentage sign is on the top left and I would really like to know

how to use it.

Anybody else got a flex 10 with a Thai keyboard t hat can help me.

The other thing I thought of is how to cut the pipe longways.

The guys on utube all have table saws.

I have a circular saw and an angle grinder.

Right Guys,

This thread is realy working out for me.

Keep it up,I'm nearly there.

The roof is suroundes in wet concrete today so I can't go and do

RichCor's test but I red the 3 links ChiangMai sent.

I want to go with the first or second method if the materials are available in Thailand.

I'm going to try to get a matt blact colour.

For the first method I will need Krylon Fusion Paint.Is that available in Thailand.

For the second method I will need a cleaner and some stain.

I'm not sure what I should use for these.

The only thing I learned from the third post is that I don't want to do it that way.

He used bleach as a cleaner and maybe I can use that for method 2.

Method 1 sounds the easyiest If you know where I can get a can of that paint in Thailand

or on line I would be sorted

Good answer RichCor,

I will have a look at it tomorow.

And by the way....what sort of paint should I use,

both fot the PVC and the metal brackets.

I'm nearly there.

There are just 2 things I need to decide.

1-Wheather to use 3 or 4 1nch PVC pipe and,

2-What the distance between the underside of the roof

and the top of the gutter should be and.

3-How far should I tuck the gutter in under the roof edge.

Just to clarify,I've got a concrete wall with a flat concreate foor(slightly pitched)

and a nine inch overhang.

I think I will get spechial brackets made up and go with 3 inch PVC pipe..

paint it all black and it shouls look allright.

The only one I can find online is HomePro "hoffen" brand,500bht for 3 meters.

There is a Thai Wat Sa Du near me and I suppose they would have a better selection.

Are the metal gutters for sale in the shops or do you have to get them made up spechially..

Still the only way so far to get round gutters is by PVC DIY.The brackets are the thing that would

get me there.

How would you go about this.

Would they make them up in a metalwork shop for me.

How wide should the pipe be

I don't know how much the roof is oitched but it is quite visable to the naked eye.

The roof itself is about 4 inches thick.

The eves gutter is the one I'm looking for.

I should have a look at it when it's actually raining to see how the water is actually

spilling.

But the main problem now is that I haven't seen a roundy gutter since the 70's

I found some upvc gutters online.

I'm now concentrating on finding roundy ones

as angular ones would look terrable on my old world house,

Hence the DIY pvc pipe notion.

The roof is pitched and there is an overhang of 9 inches.

So the back wall where the rainn runs off is damp.

My builder says that that's because the overhang is only 9 inches.

So that's the side where I want to gutter,16 foot straight.

What are the options for guttering in Thailand and how much do they cost.