drtreelove

https://www.organictotto.com/shop/ FB and LINE too beneficial for fish WATER TREATMENT MICROORGANISMS - ELIMINATE ODORS FORMULATED SPECIFICALLY FOR ALL TYPES OF AQUACULTURE PONDS. Solve the problem of rotten, smelly, black, viscous water in fish ponds, shrimp ponds, shrimp ponds, and various aquaculture ponds. Used as microorganisms to adjust the water condition, making the water clear, transparent, still color, and decomposing sediment sludge. Eliminate animal excreta. food waste left in the pond Prevent and solve the problem of rotten bottom soil. for the good health of aquatic animals Helps aquatic animals grow fast, strong and gain weight

My opinion is: this generalization is a myth. I'm back in California for the season and dealing with customer's trees, landscapes, home orchards and gardens and there are far more pest and disease problems here where soil regeneration has not been utilized. Through years of study and trials in the US and Thailand I became convinced of the efficacy of soil fertility improvements in pest and disease suppression. even with the most aggressive tropical pest types. BTW, weaver ants are not a plant pest, they do not feed on the trees, but are a natural biological control for some plant pests. They are evil little kamakaze dive bomber pests for people, but soil improvements or bio-pesticides do not apply for control. Ask your local village neighbor to collect the weaver ant nests. Those interested in Permaculture may appreciate Matt Powers: The Permaculture Student - YT Channel with a wealth of information, and Matt's new book on Regenerative Soil: https://www.thepermaculturestudent.com/shop/regenerative-soil-science-amp-solutions-manual-pre-order Regarding "food-forest", = agro-forestry, you might find value in the pinned discussion in our organic subforum. Also, there is an excellent book on Agroforestry from Nepal, by my friend and fellow member of ISTF (Intnl Soc of Tropical Foresters) These principles regarding the inherent 'integrated' nature of agroforestry are a brilliant observation and should be taken into account by all farmers, to move away from monocropping and it's inherent problems: Agroforestry Systems and Practices in Nepal by SWOYAMBHU MAN AMATYA (From the Forwards and Preface) Agroforestry systems are, by definition, more complex than mono-cultural production systems, it is important for the student to understand the many interactions between the components of an agroforestry system: trees, crop plants, livestock, soil, water, climate, as well as the farming household. The knowledge of the principles of these interactions is essential for scientifically informed innovation of agroforestry systems that meet the developmental needs of the rural economy. The combined use of land for different crop types in agroforestry systems often leads to increased productivity and other added benefits as compared to a segregated use of land either for agriculture or for forestry. The multifunctional approach of agroforestry systems may consequently help solve or alleviate many problems associated with increasing human population densities, poverty, and scarcity of land for food production and for goods and services derived from trees. Agroforestry has been practiced all over the world since time immemorial. Farmers have developed sustainable agroforestry systems that produce crops, trees, livestock, fish, medicinal and aromatic plants, and other related forest resources. In our country empirical evidence suggests that agroforestry can provide a sound ecological basis for increased crop and animal productivity, more dependable economic returns, and greater biodiversity. In view of these, agroforestry is increasingly becoming an important landscape feature of Nepal and the entire hill farming systems of the country. Agroforestry practice in Nepal generally aims for meeting the present and future requirements of fuel wood, small timber, fodder, and Non-Timber Forest Products including Medicinal and Aromatic Plants, and for environmental services to include watershed functions, slope stabilization and erosion control, environmental protection, and microclimate amelioration. Farming system in Nepal generally depends on the various types of products that are obtained from forests. Rural people collect green biomass (fodder) as livestock feed and leaf litter from forests for animal bedding. They take livestock to forests for grazing throughout the year. As a result, forests are degraded and receding from villages. This type of systems is being practiced in Nepal since time immemorial. In other words, forestry is an integral part of farming system in Nepal. Our forefathers have been planting tree species for multiple uses such as food, shelter, medicine, and spices in and around their farmland. Agroforestry practices are seen to improve livelihood through increasing the asset base for households, increasing productivity of both tree and agriculture crops, help conserve ecosystem and biodiversity, and improving agriculture landscapes including protection against environmental degradation.

Check with member Grafting Ken, our citrus propagation specialist, (who has high quality citrus plants for sale too). My father was a prolific grafter, I grew up with "coctail trees" in our yard (multiple fruit varieties on one tree); I don't remember him using air-layering with citrus. He primarily used and taught me cleft-grafts and shield-grafts with citrus. Timing is usually at peak growing season, now, as long as the trees have adequate fertility and water management. But with soaring temps right now it is probably wise to shade the plants and grafts, or hold off for early rainy season.

If you put that much attention on building the soil fertility you wouldn't need all the bio-pesticides. Get in touch with Soil Food Web - Regenerative Ag science, principles and practices. It works.

Lemongrass may help, but something else to consider: Use EM (effective microorganisms) in the drain water to suppress odors. The excellent proven product from Organic Totto is on the shelf at HomePro, not in gardening section but with home cleaning supplies. They also make EM balls for pond water clarity management.

Methods and materials options for mitigating over fertilization with high salt index materials: Scrape the surface organic layer containing high salts material, replace with a clean mulch; copious watering/leaching; humic substances (humid acid, fulvic acid) drench with liquid solution; gypsum (Calcium sulfate) not the Calcium oxide that you usually get in Thailand sold as gypsum. CaO is 'quicklime' a Calcium product, but is a very different chemistry than ag gypsum CaSO4. If planted too low - (uppermost root flare should show at soil grade or above) - dig out with a good root ball intact and re-plant at a higher level as Cooked has recommended in previous post.

Especially fresh, un-aged, un-composted manure. Cooked is right, avocados worldwide are notoriously susceptible to Phythophthora crown rot, and that often happens by planting too deep in a clayey soil, where drainage is poor, the root crown stays wet and can't dry out in between waterings. But crown rot signs in the foliar canopy, in my experience, usually presents as wilting and branch tip die-back in the top Your photos don't look like that too me and the leaf tip and margin drying are characteristic of water deficit or salt burn or both. Sunburn can be a contributing factor when foliage moisture content is compromised, from water deficit or root damage that prevents good hydration.

With chlorotic (yellowed) appearance of foliage, leaf tips and margins drying/dying, dried up grass, I would consider nutrient deficiences, water deficit/drought stress, high salts fertilizer (manure and/or high NPK chemical fertilizer that dessicates roots and destroys beneficial soil biology and soil aggregate structure and therefore limits soil moisture retention).

Terminology issue. "Trace elements' means different things to different people. To me it means the minerals that occur in the soil and in soil amendments products in truly 'trace' amounts and are usually not included in a routine soil test for chemcial farming: Chromium, Cobalt, Iodine, Molybdenum, Selenium, Nickel, etc. These are best obtained from excellent trace mineral souces like kelp, Azomite and granite rock dust, and chelated by additon of humic substances (All available from Best Garden State on FB and LINE) Are you referring to those, or to what is usually called "micro-nutrients" or "secondary elements", Boron, Iron, Manganese, Copper and Zinc? These secondary elements can be found in some fertilizer products, especially in a good COF (complete organic fertilizer) like Organic Totto's Bokashi, or some of the COF products from Best Garden State. And you can also find these mixed and formulated for foliar fertilizer. I buy packets of a mix like this from a local ag shop in MaeJo, Chiang Mai. BTW, don't be afraid to spray foliar fertilizer. Be afraid of not researching what you are using and of not suiting up with PPEs for any concentrated substances that you apply, sprays, powders, etc, including biologicals, botanicals and chemicals. A better way is to cultivate the soil biology, which effectively mines these substances from the mineral soil and rock, and cycles nutrients without the need for so much input of expensive fertilizers. See Soil Food Web and Regenerative Ag literature and videos.

So true! And "once and for all" is not an option. Glufosinate ammonium is a contact herbicide primarily for top growth burn down, with only minimal systemic action, so it does not effectively translocate into the root system for a complete kill, like glyphosate. And it is not a pre-emergent (inhibiting seed germination). Therefore what you are experiencing is regrowth from persistent roots, and possible re-seeding. Also, weeds develop resistance to this chemical and you lose effectiveness over time unless you change up and alternate the class of herbicide for subsequent applications. But its true that chemical dependancy is a losing battle and is environmentally irresponsible. Consider some of the other suggestions for alternative plantings and management, because bare ground and repeated use of herbicides degrades the soil and will always be ugly and favor weed growth.

http://www.itfnet.org/gfruit/Templates English/durian.harv.pre.htm

Correct. Somewhat. If you come in from San Kamphaeng on the 1006 and cross the 11 (superhwy) you will be on Charoeng Muang Rd. Continue straight and turn right on Charoeng Rat (106, the road along the East side of the river). Go north past Goodview on left, Wat Ket Karam on right, and pass through the next major intersection which is Kaeonawarat Rd. Sriyont is on the right in that stretch before Rattanakosin Rd. Can't miss it. Ask for Khun Neung the owner /manager, he'll fill you in on warranty.

I had a similar situation in Chiang Mai where my wife and I took over the 10 rai farm of a deceased horticulturist friend, with 3 rai of mature fruit trees, 73 longan and 55 mango. We refurbished a bore well and tank tower, as well as pond pump water supply. I went with bunds and flood irrigation where possible and hand held 1" hose watering where needed. I can't comment on the drip system you are asking about. I am not in favor of drip emitters for trees. As a tree care professional for over 50 years (mostly trees in landscapes and home orchards). And I grew up watching my father manage citrus orchards in the Arizona desert, with a very successful system of flood irrigation every 10 days. I have found that drip systems can keep trees alive, but is unnatural and not adequate for full absorbing root zone saturation, tree health and metabolic processes. One exception is well designed Netafim-type smart-drip soaker tubing systems. Infrequent deep watering is preferred. https://www.thespruce.com/watering-deeply-1402418 A lot can be done to improve and enhance soil moisture retention and water usage efficiency . Soil aggregate structure is the key factor. This comes with building soil organic matter content, beneficial soil biology cultivation, especially AMF (arbuscular micorrhizal fungus) that produces glomalin which binds soil crumb structure and extends the absorbing capacity of tree root systems . This is best achieved with Redox principles (reduction vs oxidation factors, including minimal tillage and avoidance of harsh chemical fertilizers, herbicides and pesticides) and photosynthate root exudates from mixed species cover cropping. Plus bio-inoculants. Matt Powers with Dr Olivier Husson on Redox https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LMACAg0ANCA

I don't know Chaiyaphum, but as for which manure, avoid fresh raw manure and go with well-aged or preferrably composted manure. Ask around locally for dairy cattle or chicken manure. For your berries, veggies and weed, if not needed in bulk quantities, you may want to consider ordering sacks of COF (complete organic fertilizer) from Best Garden State, on FB or LINE, or bokashi COF from OrganicTotto. And/or the excellent Takumi Fish Fertilizer and other products from Maruchu Bussan. I also use a composted bat guano and cow manure sack product from a local ag shop here in MaeJo Chiang Mai.

Soil preparation and good water management is everything. Incorporate (rototill) vermicompost to 15cm depth or more before planting if possible. With adequate soil fertility and irrigation, ya malaysia usually does fine in the sun. Mow it high, 3 inches, because scalping it with a krueng tat ya will expose the soil surface to sunlight and rapid drying. Mow frequently enough (weekly during the growing season) so that you don't cut more than 1/4 to 1/3 off the top of the grass blades. More than that is physiologically stressful and a setback for consistent health and appearance. Avoid high NPK, high salt index chemical fertilizers that are detrimental for the benefical soil biology, dessicate roots and reduce drought tolerance. Use organic fertilizers and a mulching mower that returns the grass clippings to the soil. As for the old TV garden subforum, this is it, the dog and snake and sometimes plant forum. Farming in Thailand is better for more experienced and helpful growers. Almost every farm has a farmhouse and a landscape, lawns and trees, birds and bees, and growers living there.

Nothing new about that! It goes with the territory. As a paramedic ambulance attendent in big-city California in the late 70s early 80s I've faced the suicidal, the homicidal and the criminally insane, I've been slapped, slugged, spit at in the face, drawn down on (gun to the head), stabbed in the back, and had to fight for my life on the street a few times. I remember a gang war in the SF east bay that raged for 3 nights, we had our ambulance windshield bashed with baseball bats and some of our crews were attacked, all because we were trying to help the fallen opposing gang members. And we were unarmed first responder medics. How the police get treated is far more hostile. That's just what you have to deal with all day, every day, the worst people and worst situations that a "civilized society" has to offer. After 5 years of that I went back to tree work. The trees are hard work and sometimes dangerous, but are far more peaceful than humans.

Sriphat OPD 5th floor https://sriphat.med.cmu.ac.th/en/service/detail/17

https://nimut.com/en/multi-purpose-shredder/ No personal experience with these. I go for the larger models: https://banditchippers.com/whole-tree-chippers/#:~:text=Bandit whole tree chippers throw,producing a better end-product.

Forcing a lime tree to fruit should not be necessary. I would look first to improving the growing conditions, soil and water manaagement to enhance the tree's best genetic potential. Do you know what you have, lime or lemon? or suckers from an unknown root-stock? Are you are certain that the tree is what you think it is, and that the desireable grafted fruiting stock has not died back and been overtaken by suckers from the root stock? (one of the most common problems that I have seen when addressing citrus fruiting issues). What does the foliar crown look like? full and green? Do flowers form? flowers form and drop off before fruit forms? Fruit forms but drops off before fully developing? In the ground or in a container? and what kind of soil and soil fertility improvements? To address soil and water management, use a compete organic fertilizer, mulching of the root zone soil surface, a weekly deep watering. Avoid daily watering. How do you water the tree, how often and how much and do you monitor depth of water infiltration? Could it be getting too much water, and/or is soil or mulch piled up above the root collar causing root and crown rot? (which is one of the most common problems with citrus trees). Post photos of the entire tree and the site. There are commercial growers here who may have more experience and suggestions than I do.

There are multiple factors to be considered. Citrus trees normally thrive in full sun in hot desert climates, but the concrete environment presents a level of heat reflexion intensity that may need buffering with afternoon shade, water misting, and/or a stepped up watering requirement. Your new plantings will be more sensitive and vulnerable to foliar sunscald. And it is important to promote a full foliar canopy to provide shading of the tree trunk, which will also be vulnerable to sunburn. A good potting soil blend with adequate organic matter content and humic substances, plus mulching of the soil surface, will make a difference in soil moisture retention and the requirement for frequency in watering. The soil blend will make a big difference in drainage vs soil moisture rentention and the watering requirement. Getting all this right takes some experience and conscious discovery process, with daily monitoring. A soil moisture meter is a very useful tool. (see Lazada for soil moisture meters like: Smart Sensor 4-In-1 Soil Tester, Moisture Meter) Over watering can cause root and crown rot, a common problem and the probable cause for many cases of mortality for container grown citrus, as well as in-the-ground plantings. Plant high, with the root crown at or slightly above the soil grade, and keep the mulch clear from piling up on the root collar at the base of the tree trunk.

I believe live plant material will be prohibited, confiscated at SFO or LAX, and you may be fined. Galangal is availble in SF Chinatown and some Asian supermarkets like "99 Ranch" in Calif, I don't know about Utah.

Takumi Organic Fertilizer - Maruchu Bussan Organic This company has a sack potting soil mix along with their other excellent products. Incl a cannabis starter kit with container, potting soil, organic fertilzer and all. But I was there last week and they are in the process of moving from the Sansai location, to MaeRim we were told.

Good tips! I also use coconut and rice hulls, as mulch only. Don't incorporate course raw organic matter like this into the soil you will be planting in any time soon. What kind of volume are you looking for? A few sacks, or truck loads? There is sack soil available at Kamtieng Plant Market and at most garden centers, but its almost impossible to know the true contents of what you are buying. The sellers often don't really know. It's best to blend your own. There is bulk soil available at the many building materials yards around the greater CM area. You can order 6 or 10 wheeler loads, or they will sack it up for you and load your pickup or the trunk of your car with small orders. I'm always on the look out, and each materials-yard changes frequently with soil texture (sand/silt/clay particle size) and organic matter content, depending on their current sourcing. The best dark brown sandy loam I've seen recently was a big pile at a yard on the 1014 between Borsang and Doi Saket. There is usually some decent sandy loam at a yard on the 1001 between RaumChok and MaeJo. If you see an old white guy stopped and digging into a pile, handling, smelling and tasting the soil, thats probably me. Then I buy finished compost from MJU Farm Cannabis operation, or Vermicompost from Best Garden State and mix that with the loamy soil. I add some sack bat guano/cow manure fertilizer from an ag shop in MaeJo, and OrganicTotto bokashi COF (complete organic fertilizer). For a super rich mix, I add some granular humate ore from Best Garden State, or Agrolig humates online (incorporating humic substances is one of the best things you can do for any plantings). Paramagnetic rock dust, kelp meal and/or Azomite volcanic dust for trace minerals would be a bonus for your mix and high nutrient density plants and food production. I also forage undisturbed forest floor soil with leaf litter and root particles, to inoculate with fungal-dominant beneficial soil biology. With this and good growing conditions, water management and appropriate sun exposure, along with mid season Takumi hydrolyzed fish fertilizer applications, your landscape plants, fruit trees, veggies, or cannabis can reach the full genetic potential, appearance and quality. Don

Organic gardeners take note: I just found this excellent article. https://www.planetnatural.com/worm-castings-benefits/ Farm the composting worms yourself, or buy vermicompost and liquid extract from Best Garden State/Biosurge Thailand, or in Chiang Mai from the MaeJo University Farm worm and cannabis operation, or other suppliers. Encourage local earthworms with 'build the soil and they will come' approach, and not poisoning the soil with harsh chemistries, high NPK fertilizers and pesticides.