Cambodia Motorbike Road Trip 2019 The good, the bad and the painful!

[chrissables]

Day 15. 17th Jan. Siem Reap to Koh Ker. 304km

I had planned to see a few sites today but my phone stopped working and i could not navigate my way around.

I eventually found Koh Ker and really enjoyed riding around the different temples in the area. 

You actually ride a loop around stopping as you wish, it was for me great as no tourists until the main temple at the end of the loop.

Unfortunately Somchai’s the Thai parking supervisor’s Cambodian brother was in charge of the parking. After being told to move two times to places where my bike was balanced too close to vertical and him refusing to let me park in a safer area he got #u@k off and i rode off without seeing the main temple. There was enough room to park 100 bikes as you wish, but……

[chrissables]

[chrissables]

Day 16. 18th Jan. Angkor Wat

I bought a 3 day pass to wander around the temples so I did not have to rush when there.

As I entered the main walk into the complex they asked for my ticket, but it was not punched. So Somchai’s other Cambodian brother decided to lecture me on what I had done wrong. He was fuming as I explained I turned up, I have a ticket, if someone did not check it, they were wrong. He looked as if he wanted to fight about it, which encouraged me to annoy him more. Finally another guy just clipped to ticket and all was ok. (I found out later you have to stop 5 km away and get it clipped on the way in).

I decided to get a guide for the main Angkor Wat Temple, it was money well spent and he also explained how to ride around to the other temples. Where the local tuk tuk mafia were telling me it was illegal and I would be arrested! <deleted>!

[chrissables]

[chrissables]

Day 17. 19th Jan. Preah Vihea 471km

A long ride today to the temple on the Cambodian / Thai border which Thailand still disputes is theirs.

The final stretch of road to the summit was extremely steep, but fun to ride. One of the Cambodians soldiers allowed me to park in his front garden and it was a pleasant walk with some great views.

[thaiguzzi]

46 minutes ago, chrissables said:

As I started the pannier on my right side hit the side of the rut I was in, pushing me to the left but there was no way to get a foot on the ground and over I went.

 

47 minutes ago, chrissables said:

I took a slightly different route than riding up and the pannier again hit the side of the rut I was in and over I went again! This was getting tedious and annoying!

Those goddamm hard panniers again Chris!

Soft bags next time.

48 minutes ago, chrissables said:

But as I removed my boot to start the cleaning the sole of the boot came away! I had actually bought the boots especially for this trip and they were still next to new,

They look like Formas Chris?

Forma Adventure?

Jeez, i've got Forma trials boots, different sole and method of sole attachment (stitched as well as glued), and they are great, but those boots of yours quality control is dreadful. Or they forgot the glue.

Designed in Italy.

Made In Rumania....

Carry on. Excellent thread as usual.

[chrissables]

[chrissables]

Day 18. 20th Jan. Siem Reap Temples Banteay Kidei and Ta Keo.

I had a great time exploring these temples and surrounding areas and managed to miss large tourist groups.

The climb to the top of Ta Keo was extremely steep, but worthwhile.

[jmd8800]

Excellent thread!!!

[chrissables]

[chrissables]

Day 19. 21st Jan. Banteay  Chhmar Temple 360km

Banteay Chhmar is a temple complex in the north west of Cambodia near the Thai border.

The route was road 6 westwards from Siem Reap followed by turning north at Kralanh onto road 68 which loops around to the temple complex. Leaving the temple I continued the loop to Sisophon and Siem Reap.

The temples were largely in ruins, but health and safety does not exist here, which meant you could climb and scrabble your way around.

[chrissables]

[chrissables]

Day 20. 22nd Jan. Siem Reap temples Angkor Wat and a temple whose name I forget.

I enjoyed Angkor Wat more this time, I entered on the outside pathways, far fewer tourists and a pleasant walk. I gave the inside area a miss.

The second temple was great as you walked into the jungle off the beaten track to see it all. Most other tourists did not bother and I found myself alone with just the birds singing from the treetops, a wonderful experience.

[taninthai]

Nice trip and nice report...I have heard shanokville has completely changed been taken over b Chinese......on one pic I notice ..you ride with only one pannier that must really upset balance of bike.

[chrissables]

[chrissables]

Day 21. 23rd Jan. A failed ride to the Tonle Sap lake

I intended to get to shore of the lake and see some of the rural life there, but failed.

It seems the stilted villages are designated tourist areas and they force you to park up and take their transport, I refused and gave it a miss.

[chrissables]

[chrissables]

Day 22. 24th Jan. Walking around Siem Reap.

Today was a nice relaxing day, walking for a couple of hours in Pub street area and the old market

[chrissables]

[chrissables]

Day 23.25th Jan. Siem Reap to Stung Treng via Bang Mealea Temple. 326km

Today’s route was a return trip of my ride from Ban Lung to Siem Reap.

I had tried to find this temple complex before, but my phone had died.

This time it was easy to find, but after parking and starting to walk in I was told to buy a ticket…. A few km away. Just such a strange set up!

This was a great place to walk around, but there many groups of Japanese tourists there also. And it was very difficult to take photos as they would all take it in turns to take selfies, then stay there while sending them to wherever. They were totally oblivious to what was going on around them.

When I arrived at Stung Treng it seemed all the hotels were booked up, eventually I found a big room with 2 double beds in a nice purple colour! And a jogging machine!

[chrissables]

[chrissables]

Day 24. 26th Jan. Stung Treng to Phnom Penh. 403km

The day started cool and windy as I rode down road 13 to Kratie, then took the reverse route of Phnom Penh to Kratie along the side of the Mekong river to Kompong Cham and west to the capital city.

[chrissables]

[chrissables]

Day 25. 27th Jan. Phnom Penh

I spent the morning walking around the markets and Wat Phnom, which was very pleasant, a small jungle in the city center.

[chrissables]

[chrissables]

Day 26 28th Jan. Phnom Penh

My plan today was to walk around the Palace, but every tuk tuk driver was telling me it was shut. The problem was I was not asking them. It seemed like the tuk tuk drivers at the palace in Bangkok, saying the Palace is shut so they can take you somewhere.

There were unbearable, just would not stop trying to get you riding with them. Eventually I told them I was going where there was quiet and no tuk tuk drivers to annoy me! At least some listened!

As it happened the palace was closed, but only for another hour, but I decided to walk along the river edge to get some peace.

[chrissables]

Fishing the dirty waters!

[chrissables]

Day 27. 29th Jan. Phnom Penh to Kampot 163km?

The road to Kampot is straight forward, road 3 all the way. But a terrible ride!

100 km of hell, 40km of ok followed up by 26km of hell again. If wet it would be so dangerous.

Once the roadwork’s are complete it will be ok, but at the moment, not!

The good thing about Kampot is all the restaurants and bars and of course the sunsets.

[chrissables]

A nice sunset after a terrible ride.

[chrissables]

Day 28. 30th Jan. Bokor mountain. 102km

I decided to ride up Bokor Mountain again today, really good fun.