Don't mean to divert from topic here, but back when was Sanam Luang the site of the weekend market? I didn't know much about Bkk on that first trip, but I do remember the market was all canvas roofs and carts. It was the first time I saw a cast-iron wok, so impressed I bought one to bring back. Being near Hualumpong meant it was a short bus ride (for pennies) to Lumpini night market, which also was just a big piece of dirt with canvas and bamboo poles. None of these markets had any of the glitz and structures they do now. The "backpacker" thing came up in the mid to late 1980s, that was when that word came into use. Before that it was hippie or cheap traveller, and there was no sort of guide books, it was the overland grapevine and an obscure newsletter from UK called BIT. A lot of the people I met on the road were Aussies/Kiwis headed to UK, or Brits headed to down under. There were a few other places near the RR station, like Pepsi Hotel. There's also still a few hostel type places in that area that are decently maintained. About ten years ago I stayed a few nights in a B&B for old times' sake, nasty old battle axe ran the place but her gracious young daughter would apologize for her. I liked the novelty of getting off the train and walking to my hotel.
