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Looking for a roof foam spray company in Phuket.


merijn

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I'm looking for a company who can do the expanding roof spray in my house.

It is the expanding spray which is done in the inside of the roof of existing houses for insulation and water protection.

Unfortunately the phone numbers i have don't work and there is very limited information available on the net.

Does anybody knows a company on Phuket who is doing this ?

 

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The expanding foam may be useful for protection against water leaks but it's not that great for insulation against heat......been there, done that. The foam is applied quite thinly, even if it was a couple of inches thick, it will be defeated within a couple of hours if the roof tiles are made from concrete. A better solution perhaps might be a radiant barrier combined with good ventilation, the barrier can be retrofitted in many cases, if the house is already built. Ventilation is the most useful item, vented soffit boards provide a good source for cooler  air intake, as long as there's a source of hot air out, preferably at the peak or gable. In either case, attic ceiling insulation will help prevent heat penetration into the living space.

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31 minutes ago, nigelforbes said:

The expanding foam may be useful for protection against water leaks but it's not that great for insulation against heat......been there, done that. The foam is applied quite thinly, even if it was a couple of inches thick, it will be defeated within a couple of hours if the roof tiles are made from concrete. A better solution perhaps might be a radiant barrier combined with good ventilation, the barrier can be retrofitted in many cases, if the house is already built. Ventilation is the most useful item, vented soffit boards provide a good source for cooler  air intake, as long as there's a source of hot air out, preferably at the peak or gable. In either case, attic ceiling insulation will help prevent heat penetration into the living space.

I know,  i have it in my house where i life in but it is great for water protection and the risk of roof tile movements.

Therefore i want to do it also in my renting houses. Specially to avoid damage and minor leaks from the roof.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I had spray foam installed to the underside of my roof in November 2015.   One of the driving factors was a complete new paint of the house exterior, which included painting the roof tiles a dark charcoal colour (which obviously was going to absorb more heat).

 

Anyway, first thing was to have the roof tiles checked for any missing or gaps which could cause leakage of the foam when sprayed.    Job took the team 2 days to complete, with the foam applied to a thickness of 50mm.   The house interior temperature was lowered quite markedly, I estimate between 3 to 5 deg C.   As mentioned in other posts, there's the added advantage of the tiles being effectively locked in position, which eliminates potential leaks.

 

Can't remember the last time I was in the roof space, but co-incidentally was there today as there's an issue with a domestic water header tank in the roof space, where the ball cock cut off seems to be stuck with the result that there's a constant overflow.   Fortunately the over flow pipe discharges outside the house onto a lower passage roof.

 

Some photos of the insulation, taken at the time of installation but still looks the same 7 years on.

 

 

20150928_161542.jpg

20150928_161559.jpg

20150928_161614.jpg

20150928_161551.jpg

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On 11/27/2022 at 10:04 AM, pagallim said:

I had spray foam installed to the underside of my roof in November 2015.   One of the driving factors was a complete new paint of the house exterior, which included painting the roof tiles a dark charcoal colour (which obviously was going to absorb more heat).

 

Anyway, first thing was to have the roof tiles checked for any missing or gaps which could cause leakage of the foam when sprayed.    Job took the team 2 days to complete, with the foam applied to a thickness of 50mm.   The house interior temperature was lowered quite markedly, I estimate between 3 to 5 deg C.   As mentioned in other posts, there's the added advantage of the tiles being effectively locked in position, which eliminates potential leaks.

 

Can't remember the last time I was in the roof space, but co-incidentally was there today as there's an issue with a domestic water header tank in the roof space, where the ball cock cut off seems to be stuck with the result that there's a constant overflow.   Fortunately the over flow pipe discharges outside the house onto a lower passage roof.

 

Some photos of the insulation, taken at the time of installation but still looks the same 7 years on.

 

 

20150928_161542.jpg

20150928_161559.jpg

20150928_161614.jpg

20150928_161551.jpg

I have some bad news for you that is closed cell sprayfoam which shouldn’t be applied to residential properties with timber roofs as it is not breathable,it will destroy your roof the beams will eventually turn to dust and you will be shelling out for a new roof structure at an eye-watering cost.

The only sprayfoam that should be applied to houses is open cell and the best is Icynene from Canada,it should also be sprayed onto membrane preferably breathable membrane to validate the 25-year guarantee directly from the Canadian manufacturer.

Spraying directly onto the tiles or slate is problematic as if you get a cracked tile or slate in a storm when you replace it you will pull a plug of sprayfoam out with it and it will need to be resprayed.

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On 11/9/2022 at 7:33 AM, nigelforbes said:

The expanding foam may be useful for protection against water leaks but it's not that great for insulation against heat......been there, done that. The foam is applied quite thinly, even if it was a couple of inches thick, it will be defeated within a couple of hours if the roof tiles are made from concrete. A better solution perhaps might be a radiant barrier combined with good ventilation, the barrier can be retrofitted in many cases, if the house is already built. Ventilation is the most useful item, vented soffit boards provide a good source for cooler  air intake, as long as there's a source of hot air out, preferably at the peak or gable. In either case, attic ceiling insulation will help prevent heat penetration into the living space.

This is absolute nonsense Icynene from Canada is specifically manufactured to work in massive extremes from minus 40 degrees to plus 40 degrees,as that is what they have in parts of Canada they even say 40 to 40 for winter to summer over there!

Insulation is measured by U values and the lower the figure the more efficient the insulation is,fibreglass has a U value of either 0.20 or 0.30 I can’t remember exactly now but Icynene open cell has a U value of 0.036,.

So it is at least 7-8 times more effective possibly more than fibreglass which is probably the most used form of insulation worldwide but a product from the 1930s.

To dispose of fibreglass in the UK now it must be bagged,tagged and incinerated disposed of in the same way as deadly asbestos what does that tell you?

It is banned in many states in the USA,it is banned in Germany also and probably many other European nations?

Icynene open cell sprayfoam is widely used in America in the hot states like California and Florida to reduce the ridiculous cost of air-conditioning systems it performs with excellence in hot climates as it is designed exactly for this,as well as to keep homes warm in cold climates.

In Europe if it doesn’t work you will be cold at winter,in Canada it is matter of life and death!

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38 minutes ago, Phnom Penh Trader said:

I have some bad news for you that is closed cell sprayfoam which shouldn’t be applied to residential properties with timber roofs as it is not breathable,it will destroy your roof the beams will eventually turn to dust and you will be shelling out for a new roof structure at an eye-watering cost.

The only sprayfoam that should be applied to houses is open cell and the best is Icynene from Canada,it should also be sprayed onto membrane preferably breathable membrane to validate the 25-year guarantee directly from the Canadian manufacturer.

Spraying directly onto the tiles or slate is problematic as if you get a cracked tile or slate in a storm when you replace it you will pull a plug of sprayfoam out with it and it will need to be resprayed.

Maybe calling your knowledge of Thai roof constructions into question.   With the exception of Lanna type houses, you would struggle to find any that haven't been constructed with steel and concrete tile or metal sheeting.   The only wood in most houses are the decorative board pieces used on the underside of roof overhangs (see photo), and even then smart board is commonly used.

20221129_070006.jpg

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43 minutes ago, Phnom Penh Trader said:

This is absolute nonsense Icynene from Canada is specifically manufactured to work in massive extremes from minus 40 degrees to plus 40 degrees,as that is what they have in parts of Canada they even say 40 to 40 for winter to summer over there!

Insulation is measured by U values and the lower the figure the more efficient the insulation is,fibreglass has a U value of either 0.20 or 0.30 I can’t remember exactly now but Icynene open cell has a U value of 0.036,.

So it is at least 7-8 times more effective possibly more than fibreglass which is probably the most used form of insulation worldwide but a product from the 1930s.

To dispose of fibreglass in the UK now it must be bagged,tagged and incinerated disposed of in the same way as deadly asbestos what does that tell you?

It is banned in many states in the USA,it is banned in Germany also and probably many other European nations?

Icynene open cell sprayfoam is widely used in America in the hot states like California and Florida to reduce the ridiculous cost of air-conditioning systems it performs with excellence in hot climates as it is designed exactly for this,as well as to keep homes warm in cold climates.

In Europe if it doesn’t work you will be cold at winter,in Canada it is matter of life and death!

What is nonsense, that sprayed on insulation used in Thailand is not that great protection against heat, really?

 

It doesn't matter what type of insulation is used, the same basic premise remains true in every case. If the heat source is sufficiently powerful and the insulation sufficiently thin enough, the insulation will not be effective, regardless of the R value of the insulation. If you don't believe that basic premise of physics, take some of your Icynene foam and see how close you can get to the sun before you melt!

 

In Thailand, most roofs are covered in concrete tile which are a heat store, the same principle that is used in storage heaters.  Once the tiles are fully heated they begin to radiate heat, well after the time the sun has set, typically until the small hours each morning.

 

Traditional insulation of any type delays the transfer of heat, it does not prevent it, only slows it down. For example, three inches of fibre glass insulation will be defeated by a major heat source such as radiated heat from heat tiles, within a few hours. Three inches of sprayed on foam insulation will prevent radiated heat from roof tiles but does nothing to prevent convective heat transfer which must be dealt with using ventilation and other means. This is why houses in Thailand use radiant barriers in conjunction with concrete roof tiles, to convert the heat from radiated heat to convected heat, which can be dealt with more easily by venting.

 

And because nearly all roofs in Thailand use steel beams and not wood, conductive heat from concrete roof tiles often bi-passes all types of insulation and travels down the steel and and concrete. This results in secondary heat radiation transfer, into the living space - go check the temperature of the upper part of the inside walls after 3pm.

 

I am certain that houses in Canada have better standards of construction that cater out of necessity to extremes of heat and cold, plus they don't use storage heater materials on their roofs, neither do they use a labyrinth of steel in them, they use wood. I'm also sure that the spray type insulation used there is applied properly and is of a correct thickness and composition. But that's Canada, this is Thailand! And if you think that sprayed on foam insulation is applied here with the same degree of thoroughness using Canadian standards or similar, you would be mistaken.

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1 hour ago, Phnom Penh Trader said:

This is absolute nonsense Icynene from Canada is specifically manufactured to work in massive extremes from minus 40 degrees to plus 40 degrees,as that is what they have in parts of Canada they even say 40 to 40 for winter to summer over there!

Insulation is measured by U values and the lower the figure the more efficient the insulation is,fibreglass has a U value of either 0.20 or 0.30 I can’t remember exactly now but Icynene open cell has a U value of 0.036,.

So it is at least 7-8 times more effective possibly more than fibreglass which is probably the most used form of insulation worldwide but a product from the 1930s.

To dispose of fibreglass in the UK now it must be bagged,tagged and incinerated disposed of in the same way as deadly asbestos what does that tell you?

It is banned in many states in the USA,it is banned in Germany also and probably many other European nations?

Icynene open cell sprayfoam is widely used in America in the hot states like California and Florida to reduce the ridiculous cost of air-conditioning systems it performs with excellence in hot climates as it is designed exactly for this,as well as to keep homes warm in cold climates.

In Europe if it doesn’t work you will be cold at winter,in Canada it is matter of life and death!

I forgot to add........cold (energy) transfers at a rate about four times slower than heat, this means that insulation against extreme cold is four times more effective than the insulation used to prevent heat transfer.

 

"Just like a hot body, a cold body radiates energy at a rate proportional to the fourth power of its temperature (referenced to absolute zero), so it does it much more slowly".

 

https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/193054/thermodynamics-possibility-of-cold-radiation#:~:text=Just like a hot body,does it much more slowly.

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On 11/27/2022 at 5:04 PM, pagallim said:

I had spray foam installed to the underside of my roof in November 2015.   One of the driving factors was a complete new paint of the house exterior, which included painting the roof tiles a dark charcoal colour (which obviously was going to absorb more heat).

 

Anyway, first thing was to have the roof tiles checked for any missing or gaps which could cause leakage of the foam when sprayed.    Job took the team 2 days to complete, with the foam applied to a thickness of 50mm.   The house interior temperature was lowered quite markedly, I estimate between 3 to 5 deg C.   As mentioned in other posts, there's the added advantage of the tiles being effectively locked in position, which eliminates potential leaks.

 

Can't remember the last time I was in the roof space, but co-incidentally was there today as there's an issue with a domestic water header tank in the roof space, where the ball cock cut off seems to be stuck with the result that there's a constant overflow.   Fortunately the over flow pipe discharges outside the house onto a lower passage roof.

 

Some photos of the insulation, taken at the time of installation but still looks the same 7 years on.

 

 

20150928_161542.jpg

20150928_161559.jpg

20150928_161614.jpg

20150928_161551.jpg

As said elsewhere, the foam prevents radiated heat from the roof tiles. As long as the roof void is capable of expelling convected heat, ie hot air, the foam will be of benefit. But without that hot air exhausting ability, the foam by itself wont be useful.

 

Also to add.... we did the opposite of you and painted our roof tiles a very light grey, they previously were dark brown. The change in internal temperatures was dramatic, the cost was around 40k. We no longer need to use air con at any time of the year whereas previously it would run constantly from early afternoon into the evening. Occasionally we run one air con in de-humidify mode to make things more pleasant. Our problem now is that the house is cold during the winter months with absolutely no heat coming in via the roof! Our attic floor is layered with about one floor of rolled fibre glass insulation but even that was defeated before the roof was painted. If you want an inexpensive solution to internal heat, paint your roof with two coats of a good quality roof paint, three years on ours still looks very good indeed plus the roof tiles are almost impossible to dislodge (we've tried to get access a couple of times but the paint is like glue).

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7 hours ago, nigelforbes said:

What is nonsense, that sprayed on insulation used in Thailand is not that great protection against heat, really?

 

It doesn't matter what type of insulation is used, the same basic premise remains true in every case. If the heat source is sufficiently powerful and the insulation sufficiently thin enough, the insulation will not be effective, regardless of the R value of the insulation. If you don't believe that basic premise of physics, take some of your Icynene foam and see how close you can get to the sun before you melt!

 

In Thailand, most roofs are covered in concrete tile which are a heat store, the same principle that is used in storage heaters.  Once the tiles are fully heated they begin to radiate heat, well after the time the sun has set, typically until the small hours each morning.

 

Traditional insulation of any type delays the transfer of heat, it does not prevent it, only slows it down. For example, three inches of fibre glass insulation will be defeated by a major heat source such as radiated heat from heat tiles, within a few hours. Three inches of sprayed on foam insulation will prevent radiated heat from roof tiles but does nothing to prevent convective heat transfer which must be dealt with using ventilation and other means. This is why houses in Thailand use radiant barriers in conjunction with concrete roof tiles, to convert the heat from radiated heat to convected heat, which can be dealt with more easily by venting.

 

And because nearly all roofs in Thailand use steel beams and not wood, conductive heat from concrete roof tiles often bi-passes all types of insulation and travels down the steel and and concrete. This results in secondary heat radiation transfer, into the living space - go check the temperature of the upper part of the inside walls after 3pm.

 

I am certain that houses in Canada have better standards of construction that cater out of necessity to extremes of heat and cold, plus they don't use storage heater materials on their roofs, neither do they use a labyrinth of steel in them, they use wood. I'm also sure that the spray type insulation used there is applied properly and is of a correct thickness and composition. But that's Canada, this is Thailand! And if you think that sprayed on foam insulation is applied here with the same degree of thoroughness using Canadian standards or similar, you would be mistaken.

I was talking about U values NOT R values but there is no point in talking with you as you are a know-it-all with little experience on any subject you preach about I have noticed?

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6 hours ago, nigelforbes said:

I forgot to add........cold (energy) transfers at a rate about four times slower than heat, this means that insulation against extreme cold is four times more effective than the insulation used to prevent heat transfer.

 

"Just like a hot body, a cold body radiates energy at a rate proportional to the fourth power of its temperature (referenced to absolute zero), so it does it much more slowly".

 

https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/193054/thermodynamics-possibility-of-cold-radiation#:~:text=Just like a hot body,does it much more slowly.

It depends what the heat or cold is transferring through quite obviously and it is called thermal bridging but I wouldn’t expect you to know that,you seem rather clueless tbh?

It’s why aluminium frames are no longer used for windows in colder countries like the UK and Canada,UPVC is preferred due to the rate of thermal bridging being much lower make sense?

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6 hours ago, Dante99 said:

Timber roof?  Looks like steel framing to me.

The roofs in Thailand are steel like factory units in the west,seriously?

What next do they use the corrugated asbestos sheeting also,like a commercial unit I honestly never knew how poor building standards were over there just laughable?

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25 minutes ago, Phnom Penh Trader said:

The roofs in Thailand are steel like factory units in the west,seriously?

What next do they use the corrugated asbestos sheeting also,like a commercial unit I honestly never knew how poor building standards were over there just laughable?

Mostly galvanised steel framing with concrete tiles.   Again, in this environment, wood isn't practical being prone to infestation of termites and high humidity levels.   Galvanised steel sheeting if used in place of concrete tiles, is typically to Australian manufacturing standard (common roof material there).

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1 hour ago, Phnom Penh Trader said:

I was talking about U values NOT R values but there is no point in talking with you as you are a know-it-all with little experience on any subject you preach about I have noticed?

An easy and straight forward choice for my ignore list, the second today, it's been a good day. Byee.

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