Problem Green Colour

[komptrade]

when I put liquide chlorine in olimpic swiming pool for 2 hours water is green. What I must to do?

[Chang_paarp]

A little more information will help us give a usefull reply.

1. How big is the pool? In litres or the dimensions.
   
2. What is the Ph of the pool water?
   
3. How much chlorine are you adding?
   
4. How old is the chlorine, if you are using liquid chlorine?
   
5. Are you running the pumps? If so how long?
   
6. How green is the pool? Can you see the bottom in the deep end? In the shallow end? Can you see the stairs?
   
7. Has someone applied fertilizer to the surrounding area reciently?
   

The answer to these questions will help give a sensible answer.

[cdnvic]

You're saying it's an olympic sized pool?

What exactly were you adding?

Edited July 6, 2007 by cdnvic

[barryandhelen]

Hi

I had same problem. Man from pool shop in Pattaya paid me a call.Turns out i was adding too much fresh water at a time . I was told only to add max 1cm of nresh water a day. If i was to add more it would mix with chemicals in water. The water would then turn green.

I often had this problem. Since his visit , problem gome

Barry

[cdnvic]

You can add more so long as you test and rebalance the water afterwards. pH, alkalinity, and hardness are especially important. If you are using a chlorine feeder the levels for that should rise on their own.

Even if you only add a cm a day, your water balance will suffer over time. This is especially true of water hardness as your minerals won't evaporate with the water.

Edited July 12, 2007 by cdnvic

[lazeeboy]

You can add more so long as you test and rebalance the water afterwards. pH, alkalinity, and hardness are especially important. If you are using a chlorine feeder the levels for that should rise on their own.

Even if you only add a cm a day, your water balance will suffer over time. This is especially true of water hardness as your minerals won't evaporate with the water.

this is where im going wrong adding too much fresh water ,wht didnt my pool shop tell me this ,ah then no more de greening liquid sales .....

[cloudhopper]

After a year my water suddenly turned green too!

I have a lap pool of about 60 cu mt. I run the pump about 8 hours a day and water circulates by surface pour-off into a sump then thru the filter. I confess I don't use huge amounts of the powdered Cl but do use the water clarifier/algicide stuff once a week. The pH is 7.8 and I haven't needed to add much water as it's the rainy season.

Is this green color a chemical or algae? How important is Cl level and what is the best way to "rebalance" the pool? Is circulation via pour-off instead of a bottom drain causing a problem?

Thanks!

[cdnvic]

You need to make sure you're using stabilized chlorine. Most of the granular stuff is not stabilized and will flash off when hit by sunlight. Stabilized chlorine contains cyanuric acid which works like sunscreen for the chlorine. I'd recommend getting a puck feeder and installing it anywhere along the pipes. You can adjust the chlorine it dispenses to maintain the proper level in the pool.

I don't recommend the floating basket chlorinators or putting the pucks in the skimmer, particularly if you have kids using the pool.

Your total chlorine level should always be between 1 and 3 parts per million. Combined chlorine should stay below .5ppm

Before adjusting pH, measure your total alkalinity and make sure it is between 90-120ppm. This will keep your pH stable. Raise Alkalinity with sodium bicarb, lower with muriatic acid.

Keep your pH at 7.2-7.8, preferably 7.4 to 7.5 which is the pH of a human eye, and that will eliminate most eye irritation in a clean pool.

Reduce pH by adding an acid. I use muriatic acid but it requires a lot of caution handling it. You may want to instead get granular sodium bisulphate. Increase it with soda ash or caustic soda.

Calcium hardness should be around 200-250ppm. Keep it on the high end of that if you have a tiled pool.

I would also run you pool pump longer, or get a timer that spreads out the sessions more evenly throughout the day.

Do you have a test kit or testing strips?

[cloudhopper]

OK thanks for all that good info vic - never had a pool before...

All I have is the double tester kit - 5 drops of yellow for Cl, 5 drops of red for pH. I'll see what the pool shop has next time I get down to CM. BTW do you recommend a shop there?

[cdnvic]

OK thanks for all that good info vic - never had a pool before...

All I have is the double tester kit - 5 drops of yellow for Cl, 5 drops of red for pH. I'll see what the pool shop has next time I get down to CM. BTW do you recommend a shop there?

I usually recommend having some good test strips that measure Total and Free Chlorine, Alkalinity, and pH for daily checks, and a good titration kit that can handle the following for more in-depth weekly checks:

Free Chlorine

Total Chlorine

pH

These three must be checked daily because they affect swimmer health

Total Alkalinity

Alkalinity affects chlorine and pH stability, but varies little day to day except under a heavy swimmer load.

Calcium Hardness

This doesn't vary much on a daily basis. Calcium affects equipment, tiles and water quality

Acid Demand

Base Demand

These simply tell you how much adjusting you need to archive pH balance. If you know your pool volume you can normally just use a chart.

Cyanuric Acid

Not a big issue if you're using stabilized chlorine pucks as you shouldn't have to add any.

For pool shops in CM, I can't make a recommendation because I haven't been back in a while but there was a recent thread in the Chiang Mai forum about it:

http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=130106

Once you get your pool in balance and get used to a regular maintenance routine, it's not nearly as complicated as it looks at first.

Edited October 2, 2007 by cdnvic

[cloudhopper]

After a couple of false starts I finally found CHEMICAL FAREAST on Mahidol Rd. Mgr is switched on and speaks English.

check out www.worldchemical.co.th for more info...

[cdnvic]

After a couple of false starts I finally found CHEMICAL FAREAST on Mahidol Rd. Mgr is switched on and speaks English.

check out www.worldchemical.co.th for more info...

This Account Has Been Suspended

Please contact the billing/support department as soon as possible.

Don't lend him money

[phanu]

I have pool in Chiang Mai ~ 400 m3 and I have no problem regarding green algues...

I have 2 sand filters (700l/mn each) + 1 UV traitment...

No chlorine, no brome, no actif oxygen... except 1 glass of chemical against every 10 days in summer and 15 dayus in winter!!!

It's clear and perfect

Phanu

[Naam]

I have pool in Chiang Mai ~ 400 m3 and I have no problem regarding green algues...

I have 2 sand filters (700l/mn each) + 1 UV traitment...

No chlorine, no brome, no actif oxygen... except 1 glass of chemical against every 10 days in summer and 15 dayus in winter!!!

It's clear and perfect

Phanu

so what's this miracle chemical???

[cloudhopper]

After adjustingthe pH and hyper chlorinating the water without good result, a bit of research turned up this interesting paper written by a Thai professor which I believe accurately represents my green color problem as a chemical reaction with iron in the water, not algae.

http://sahatchaiw.com/page1/files/Swimmingpool.pdf

If I'm able to locate the chemicals described I will report the results. I already know my well water has high iron, as evidenced by a reddish silt collected by the 30 mic paper filter. Actually I need to find a switched on water treatment company in CM and have my whole well pump/filter system re-evaluated; the ground water here is very mineralized...

[phanu]

I have pool in Chiang Mai ~ 400 m3 and I have no problem regarding green algues...

I have 2 sand filters (700l/mn each) + 1 UV traitment...

No chlorine, no brome, no actif oxygen... except 1 glass of chemical against every 10 days in summer and 15 dayus in winter!!!

It's clear and perfect

Phanu

so what's this miracle chemical???

I order this product in bkk : I'm in France for the moment but I remember that the name is like "SWIMTRIM PLUS".... delivery in 3 days in CM / 1.700 THB / Gal

[cdnvic]

A copper based algaecide is the last thing you should be putting in Chiang Mai's already mineral heavy water. This stuff is chemically similar to the antifoul paint that you put on boats to kill barnacles.

Strongly suggest you find a polyethylene dichloride based algaecide and use a proper sanitizer in there. Algae is an annoyance, but it's rarely harmful to humans. The stuff that you can't see that won't be killed by an algaecide is. (Coliform and other bacteria for example)

[cloudhopper]

How do we know if it's copper based? I've been using "Pooltrine" algaecide sold by the pool shops in CM.

[cdnvic]

How do we know if it's copper based? I've been using "Pooltrine" algaecide sold by the pool shops in CM.

Pooltrine is polyethylene dichloride. No copper content that I can see.

http://www.poolspacare.com/app/msds/Applie...s_Pooltrine.pdf

[cloudhopper]

GREEN COLOR GONE!

After consulting with the guy at World Chemical on Mahidon Rd, he recommended the following, a simpler proceedure than the one I previously mentioned to remove the ferrous ion: 1)Bring pH up to 8.0 with soda ash. My pool water turned a very milky blue at this point.2)Then sprinkle poly alumiminum chloride, a bright yellow powder, over the surface. I used 1 kg for my 70 cubic meter lap pool. 3)Let settle overnight without the pump running 4)Vacuum the white precipitate TO WASTE (the filter will not remove it).5) Bring the pH down with acid and/or chlorine to 7.5 or so and run the pump/filter. After the viz improved enough the next day to see the bottom, I could see where I missed vacuuming the first time and vacuumed again TO WASTE.

Now the water is crystal clear, although I can still see some remaining iron deposits on the walls that need to be scrubbed off with a wire brush. THIS WAS NOT AN ALGAE PROBLEM! I am now using filtered klong water for makeup instead of well water, which in my case has so much iron that the resin filter either can't remove it all or is completely saturated - I have subsequently learned that unless resin filters are backwashed with salt water, which none of the local ones (that I have seen so far) can do, they eventually (or quickly) become useless until the resin is replaced.

Finally!!

[Naam]

I am now using filtered klong water for makeup instead of well water, which in my case has so much iron that the resin filter either can't remove it all or is completely saturated - I have subsequently learned that unless resin filters are backwashed with salt water, which none of the local ones (that I have seen so far) can do, they eventually (or quickly) become useless until the resin is replaced.

i am a bit confused Cloudhopper. are you using resin grains in your pool filter?

[cloudhopper]

I am now using filtered klong water for makeup instead of well water, which in my case has so much iron that the resin filter either can't remove it all or is completely saturated - I have subsequently learned that unless resin filters are backwashed with salt water, which none of the local ones (that I have seen so far) can do, they eventually (or quickly) become useless until the resin is replaced.

i am a bit confused Cloudhopper. are you using resin grains in your pool filter?

No, it's just a standard pool sand filter. I now take my makeup water from the concrete irrigation canal thru a 30m paper filter into a 5 cubic meter sump tank where it gets superchlorinated before sending it thru the pool filter. It appears that this surface water is much less mineralized than the well water, but I have not tested it.

In my well house are a 30m paper, then sand/charcoal, then resin filters in series. We had the effluent tested at a govt lab in CM which pronounced it drinkable but hardness was still 244 and we are still getting scale on the plumbing. I saw your softener setup on the other thread - are you using (or could we use) a standard, backwashable resin filter then just changing the valving to use brine instead of source water for backflushing? If so that sounds simple enough to rig up. I would also guess that adding water to a bucket of rock salt would always result in a maximally concentrated brine solution (until the rocks eventually disappear) - is that what your venturi is doing? Surely you are sending the brine to waste and not into the domestic feed ?