Electrical Cabling And Fuses (what Sizes How Many)

[gdhm]

Hi,

As many know I am having a large house built. My Builder is running short on finances (due to the unforeseen massive hikes in building material prices) and I sense is seeking to save money. Additionally I have (so far) little confidence in local electricians I have met.

The Electrician hired to do my new house seems to be aware of things (as best I can tell) but I wish to be sure as electrical work is NOT a money saving item I amNOT prepared to comprise on safety and would pay more rather than that.

I am not seeking in depths replies (although they would be most apprecaited ) as I know it would be onerous for respondents with knowledge. However, I would appreciate ANY amount of advice, guidelines and spot checks whcih will assist me in a successful and safe outcome to my new homes electrical wiring.

My concerns and questions:

1) I see safe -T- cut boxes on sale for around 3,500 baht 32A 64A.

i) If an electrician installs two main fuse boxes do I need 2 of these (one for each box) or can one serve both?

ii) Is 64A sufficient I have not seen any higher?

iii) Can the Amp rating be too high?

2) Even though I cannot afford to install all aircons desired immediately, I wish to prepare the wiring and conduit and fuse connections now in anticipation.

i) What cable type and Fuse amp is required for aircons several around 10000 btu or 18000 btu and one maybe 26,000 btu

ii) does EACH one need its one fuse/breaker in the main fuse box?

3) Water heaters and shower heaters

I am having a 6Kw water heater in the Kitchen for its sink taps ONLY.

i) What cable is needed and what fuse in fuse rating in main fuse box?

ii) Should it have its own single fuse?

3 separate electrical 3.5W Shower heaters in 2 bathrooms

i) What cable is needed and what fuse in fuse rating in main fuse box?

ii) Should it have its own single fuse?

Multipoint in main bathroom 8 Kw will heat bath taps and shower water.

i) What cable is needed and what fuse in fuse rating in main fuse box?

ii) Should it have its own single fuse?

4) Kitchen

I will have an electric fan assisted Oven, overhead filter extractor and 1 electric hotplate (4 other gas). Additionally there will be a wall extractor fan

Once again

i) What cables are needed and what fuse rating in main fuse box?

ii) Should they have their own single fuse or can some be linked together on the same fuse (i.e. single hotplate, and oven)?

4) Water Pump and tank outside

1) Should that have its own separate fuse and circuit?

5) The house has many lights (including 8 ceiling fans with 5 light each, and 10 PIR (150W halogen outside) and a large number of twin

I count 8 ceiling fans (5 low energy bulbs each), 15 recessed energy lights, 18 ring 32w tubes, 10 PIRs, 1 Garden lamp post (4 lights) 1 twin 2 x40 W fluorescent tube and 2 single 40w tubes, 6 other low energy lights.

70 twin (3 pin) plug outlets (mostly interior).

i) How twin plug outlets many can safely go on one circuit and fuse.

ii) How many separate circuits and main fuses in the fuse box are needed approximately

I have seen main fuse boxes with 12, 16 or less fuses/breakers per box. My instinct is that these are way too few for my house and safety and that I need 26 plus fuses/breakers (2 main fuse boxes).

What are others opinions based on my info please?

6) ALL wiring and lights and plug outlets will be Grounded.

1) Is ONE 2 metre Ground rod adequate? I am told yes but I do not know.

I attach house schematics. Forgive me if symbols are not standard as I am no architect and I have adjusted my architects plans.

Sorry for the lengthy questions but this is an important matter and I wish to be aware if the builders electrician is below par. ANY knowlegable accurate info (no matter how small) will be of huge help to me in making sure he does the job correctly and safely.

Many Thanks for reading

Kindest Regards

Dave

[Crossy]

OK, firstly have a look here (if you've not already), many of your questions answered http://www.crossy.co.uk/wiring/index.html

My responses in RED

i) If an electrician installs two main fuse boxes do I need 2 of these (one for each box) or can one serve both? One unit can serve both boxes but consider using split-service Consumer Units (fuse boxes) as a protection against nuisance trips, see here http://www.crossy.co.uk/wiring/Consumer.html Do note that if you have multiple Consumer Units there MUST be a single switch that kills ALL power to the installation.

ii) Is 64A sufficient I have not seen any higher?

iii) Can the Amp rating be too high?

Use DIN mount ELCBs rather than Saf-T-Cut boxes in a new installation, size to suit circuits being protected

2) Even though I cannot afford to install all aircons desired immediately, I wish to prepare the wiring and conduit and fuse connections now in anticipation.

i) What cable type and Fuse amp is required for aircons several around 10000 btu or 18000 btu and one maybe 26,000 btu

ii) does EACH one need its one fuse/breaker in the main fuse box?

Use individual circuits, protect with a 20A motor-rated breaker and 2.5mm² cable for each

3) Water heaters and shower heaters

I am having a 6Kw water heater in the Kitchen for its sink taps ONLY.

i) What cable is needed and what fuse in fuse rating in main fuse box?

ii) Should it have its own single fuse?

Use an individual circuit breaker of 32A and 6mm² cable

3 separate electrical 3.5W Shower heaters in 2 bathrooms

i) What cable is needed and what fuse in fuse rating in main fuse box?

ii) Should it have its own single fuse?

Use an individual circuit breaker of 20A and 2.5mm² cable for EACH heater

Multipoint in main bathroom 8 Kw will heat bath taps and shower water.

i) What cable is needed and what fuse in fuse rating in main fuse box?

ii) Should it have its own single fuse?

Use an individual circuit breaker of 40A and 10mm² cable. If you use a 7kW heater you can use 6mm² cable and 32A breaker.

4) Kitchen

I will have an electric fan assisted Oven, overhead filter extractor and 1 electric hotplate (4 other gas). Additionally there will be a wall extractor fan

Once again

i) What cables are needed and what fuse rating in main fuse box?

ii) Should they have their own single fuse or can some be linked together on the same fuse (i.e. single hotplate, and oven)?

Use an individual circuit breaker of 32A and 6mm² cable, both the oven and hob can share the supply.

4) Water Pump and tank outside

1) Should that have its own separate fuse and circuit?

Use an individual circuit breaker, size and cable depends upon your pump rating, watch long cable runs, volt drop calculator on the crossy page

5) The house has many lights (including 8 ceiling fans with 5 light each, and 10 PIR (150W halogen outside) and a large number of twin

I count 8 ceiling fans (5 low energy bulbs each), 15 recessed energy lights, 18 ring 32w tubes, 10 PIRs, 1 Garden lamp post (4 lights) 1 twin 2 x40 W fluorescent tube and 2 single 40w tubes, 6 other low energy lights.

You can put the fans on the lighting circuits, limit to 15 fittings on each circuit, use 1.5mm² cable and a 15A breaker

70 twin (3 pin) plug outlets (mostly interior).

i) How twin plug outlets many can safely go on one circuit and fuse.

ii) How many separate circuits and main fuses in the fuse box are needed approximately

There is no legal limit, try to limit to 7 double outlets per circuit (we've split by room), 20A breaker 2.5mm² cable. Run two circuits to the kitchen.

I have seen main fuse boxes with 12, 16 or less fuses/breakers per box. My instinct is that these are way too few for my house and safety and that I need 26 plus fuses/breakers (2 main fuse boxes).

What are others opinions based on my info please?

6) ALL wiring and lights and plug outlets will be Grounded.

1) Is ONE 2 metre Ground rod adequate? I am told yes but I do not know.

No problem but look up the MEN link requirements on the crossy pages, your ground spike must be wired to the Consumer Unit where all the earths come together.

I attach house schematics. Forgive me if symbols are not standard as I am no architect and I have adjusted my architects plans.

We have a single 4kW heater for each shower / bath hot and another in the kitchen.

Investigate a solar pre-heater.

Outdoor lighting and outlets MUST be on ELCB protected circuits.

You really need to do a prospective load calculation, depending upon your location you may need to arrange a 3-phase supply for a house this size.

Edited August 10, 2008 by Crossy

[gdhm]

Wow!! Crossy Thanks a million .

Yes I had already found your http://www.crossy.co.uk/wiring/Consumer.html and very helpful and useful it is. It is a big trigger for me asking so many questions and the type of questions asked.

Forgive my ignorance Crossy I understand most of what you said but not a couple of things

1) ii) Is 64A sufficient I have not seen any higher?

iii) Can the Amp rating be too high?

Use DIN mount ELCBs rather than Saf-T-Cut boxes in a new installation, size to suit circuits being protected

What are these, how complicated and how much?.

How would I recognise one?

what are they called or labelled or known as in Thailand?.

The electrician speaks no English and my wife cannot explain technical things, so I need to know exactly what I am telling or asking him.

2) Outdoor lighting and outlets MUST be on ELCB protected circuits.

what exactly are these please (same type of trip switch you see built into shower heaters? Where do they go, in the main fuse box or between main fuse box and sockets or light?

Is it not a ELCB that fuse boxes have to trip the whole house circuits if a fault occurs? (usually the breaker on the left of fuse boxes (looks like the one in Saf -T-Cut boxes)

We have a single 4kW heater for each shower / bath hot and another in the kitchen

Yes. I thought 8Kw was over the top but thew ever so knowledgeable staff at Global and HomePro said 4Kw would only give me warm water.

I thought 5Kw or 6Kw would be fine but they said for one tap or shower but for a bath NO.

I did not really believe them but as the extra cost was not high and if they are wrong then the units will not be using anywhere near their max capacity anyway.

Do you know if these heater can heat water to any heat or do they all stop at a certain max temperature? I am thinking of getting the green hot water PVC piping which i think maxes C. The steel lined with PVC or whatever seem to be 3 times more expensive and yet they do not seem to deal with any higher temperatures. Any views or knowledge on these Crossy.

I decided to get 2 heaters to avoid guessing pressure if only one in kitchen when sending it to an upper bathroom on the other side of house. I was also afraid the KW would need to be higher sue to increased piping and use more electricity than 2 units with much shorter piping.

Don't know if I have flawed logic.

You really need to do a prospective load calculation, depending upon your location you may need to arrange a 3-phase supply for a house this size.

What is this 3-phrase supply?. 3 separate power lines into the house? If so will this cause me much more on my electricity bills (irrespective or whatever cost there is for additional lines).

What I can tell you is that although the house will be large our consumption is not high. At present we get through a MAX of 880 units of electricity in a month in a HOTTEST MONTH (never higher in 2½ years and usually around 600 -700 - I have kept accurate daily records throughout).

We expected a maximum of 7 to live in our new house BUT the extended family has spread out due to individual changes of direction and circumstances.

There will be the normal 3 (me, my wife and 5yr old stepson) plus my wife's 80 year old mum of my wife (she hates air cons bedrooms so will not use them at night). We may in time have one more child who like aircons (10) and my wife's cousin (also dislikes aircons in bedroom as bad asthmatic.

In all honesty I see 4 people max for some time and (maybe 5 within a year as the 10 year old may be passed to us by the person looking after her now, on behalf of an uncaring absent mother)

With that scenario (which I feel is full and accurate) do you consider a 3-phrase (whatever it is) necessary.

I have no idea what Load calculations are.

I know I use my bedroom aircon all night (and during the day sometimes) as does my stepson.

Most cooking is by gas.

I only use the shower heater (my son would like it if my wife did the same for him).

The water pump will be geared to only kick in if the mains water stops (and will not be on all the time water is run (unlike some where I live now).

We use my PC and associated equipment a lot.

We do not have many social events or parties (birthday and Xmas).

We do use UBC equipment and several TVs at once quite often and DVDs (but these are low wattage users, and we use ceiling fans and lights in rooms where we are.

Kitchen is our biggest user as my wife has a rice cooker often on and a washing machine is used a lot. We have two fridge freezers and I intend buying a freezer only when we move. The electrical hotplate and oven will I feel sure be rarely used but the overhead filter extractor and wall extractor will be.

We will have 2 water cooling machine on at all times and an alarm system.

That's about it we are not high livers. We may have a small water fall feature with a small pump in time that's about it Crossy

I do not anticipate using much extra electrical units than now except if the Qcon 10 cms blocks insulation prove not to balance our extra houses size (over our rental) with the extra space needing to be cooled by aircons.

Our current rental is like a glass house and our new house, even with no windows or doors yet, or 6 inch roof insulation is already cooler than our rental often is (my air con bedroom excepted of course).

I feel we will use one lounge Air con more (nearest where TV and sofa will be) than we do in our rental at present. and maybe the air con in the room where I use my PC for 4 to 6 hours a days a day.

I would guess electrical consumption may rise to 1000 on average a month (my wife and I are careful not to waste electricity and she is not a great aircon user herself either (when I am not there she rarely uses it).

Oh nearly forgot - Water Pump.

I have noted water pumps by Mitsubishi and Hitachi are made for 3/4 or 1 inch water pipes (in and out). Does this mean all pipes in house need to be those widths (I think my builder is installing ½ piping for most water outlets - I maybe mistaken).

Is it OK to immediately downsizing connecting pipes if I get a pump that uses larger pipes, or does that cause too much resistance and problems and is self defeating of a pumps ability and makes it fight itself?

I wish the Builders knew all these answers as I really feel they should. It certainly should not be for the client to be the foreman and technical advisor but TIT and that approach and belief would only end in tears when I got caught out.

I am so sorry if I have asked what seems to be really DUMB questions. Regretfully I am NO expert, but I know a little but I feel I need to be on top of the basics for my house to ensure the electrician is no cowboy and tries installing dodgy electrical circuits. I am doing my best to be aware of the important basics and recognise IF he fails to follow them.

Once again thanks ever so much for you wonderful info Crossy.

Best Wishes

Dave

Edited August 10, 2008 by gdhm

[Crossy]

There is no such thing as a dumb question, only dumb answers.

A 'DIN' mount ELCB clips onto the same mounting rail as your regular breakers, it looks like a double width breaker and will have a 'test' button, makes for neater installation than the separate box (which is mainly air anyway).

By the way, an ELCB, RCCB, RCD, GFI or Saf-T-Cut are all actually the same device.

I suggest that since you are likely to need two Consumer Units why don't you install an ELCB feeding one whole unit and put your water heaters, outdoor lighting and outdoor outlets on that CU. Items that are going to be affected by nuicance trips (your freezer etc.) or which are naturally leaky (stove, aircons) go on the CU without the ELCB. Sort of like a giant split-service CU. Don't forget your 'main' breaker must disconnect ALL supplies.

Our 4kW heater produces water that is too hot to handle, OK not in a massive gush but easily enough to wash up. An 8kW heater will produce a gallon of 60C (hot enough to wash up) water every 70 seconds, ours takes longer theoretically twice as long but it doesn't seem like that.

All the heaters I've seen have a temperature dial that sets the outlet temperature. I know nothing about the plastic hot water piping (ours is galvanised steel). I agree with using seperate heaters.

A 3-phase supply is effectively three incoming lines with a special meter. IIRC the standing charge is slightly higher than a regular single phase supply and you need to organise your house wiring for 3-phase. The problem is that the largest single-phase supply generally available is 45A (9.9kW) which may not be sufficient with that 8kW water heater, in some areas a 100A supply is available which solves your issue.

You should use the largest pipe possible for as far as possible (if you see what I mean) to keep the flow rate up, most taps (faucets) are 1/2" (13mm). Ensure that your pump does not draw water directly from the incoming mains, it must pull from the tank. I assume you're using a non-return valve arrangement for city water and using the pump when pressure is too low.

[Crossy]

I must add this to the website, maximum demand calculation.

Maximum Demand in Mains and Submains in a Single Residence.

1. By calculation as in the table below.

2. Limitation. The maximum demand may be determined by the current of affixed setting circuit breaker, or by the load setting of an adjustable circuit breaker. The maximum demand of consumers mains may be determined by the sum of the current settings of the circuit breakers protecting the associated final subcircuit/s and any further submain/s.

Maximum demand in final subcircuits.

1 For single items of equipment, by assessment of the connected load or,

2 For multiple items of equipment, by limitation of the current rating a circuit breaker.

Notes.

Information derived from AS3000.

The maximum demand is the sum of the load groups where applicable. Eg A+B+D+E

A twin socket outlet shall be treated as a single point for the purposes of calculation.

Lighting, for calculation of the connected load, 60W for incandescent lamps, full connected load current for fluorescent and discharge lamps.

Single domestic electrical installation or individual living unit

Load Group

A Lighting 3A for 1 to20 points + 2 A for each additional 20 points or part thereof

B Socket outlets not exceeding 10A, permanently connected electrical equipment not exceeding 10A and not included in other load groups

10A for 1 to 20 points + 5A for each additional 20 points or part thereof

Where the electrical installation includes one or more 15A or 16A socket outlets other than socket outlets provided to supply electrical equipment set out in groups C,D,E,F, and G. add 10A

C Cooking appliances or socket outlets rated at more than 10A for the connection thereof.

50% connected load

D Airconditioning equipment or socket outlets rated at more than 10A for the connection thereof

75% connected load

E Instantaneous water heaters 33.3% connected load

F Storage water heaters Full connected load

G Motors Full connected load of 1st motor + 50% of the FL current of remainder

[gdhm]

There is no such thing as a dumb question, only dumb answers.

Thanks for seeing it that way and for being so understanding and helpful in your answers Crossy.

A 'DIN' mount ELCB clips onto the same mounting rail as your regular breakers, it looks like a double width breaker and will have a 'test' button, makes for neater installation than the separate box (which is mainly air anyway).

By the way, an ELCB, RCCB, RCD, GFI or Saf-T-Cut are all actually the same device.

Thought so. Looks like the only advantage of a Saf-T-cut device is that one can lower the trip level and lessen any shock. So what exactly is MEN that I read so much about. I have read your website link but STILL do not understand what it looks like (is it in the main fuse box?) I already knew and remembered I must have MEN (Thai regulations) thanks to your website

I suggest that since you are likely to need two Consumer Units why don't you install an ELCB feeding one whole unit and put your water heaters, outdoor lighting and outdoor outlets on that CU. Items that are going to be affected by nuisance trips (your freezer etc.) or which are naturally leaky (stove, aircons) go on the CU without the ELCB. Sort of like a giant split-service CU. Don't forget your 'main' breaker must disconnect ALL supplies.

Will try to get that across to electrician Thanks. Why do I do not have an ELCB in each fuse box (I assume most with only one fuse box would have an ELCB and be vulnerable to nuisance trips. Isn't not having one less safe we have not had any nuisance trips in my rental or my wife's Aunts old wired house where I lived 14 months.

Our 4kW heater produces water that is too hot to handle, OK not in a massive gush but easily enough to wash up. An 8kW heater will produce a gallon of 60C (hot enough to wash up) water every 70 seconds, ours takes longer theoretically twice as long but it doesn't seem like that.

All the heaters I've seen have a temperature dial that sets the outlet temperature. I know nothing about the plastic hot water piping (ours is galvanised steel). I agree with using separate heaters (thats good).

A 3-phase supply is effectively three incoming lines with a special meter. IIRC the standing charge is slightly higher than a regular single phase supply and you need to organise your house wiring for 3-phase. The problem is that the largest single-phase supply generally available is 45A (9.9kW) which may not be sufficient with that 8kW water heater, in some areas a 100A supply is available which solves your issue.

.

Will have to find out what Khon Kaen's is.

why 3 lines and not two?

I know when we added a 2nd aircon to my wife's Aunt's house they made us pay for an additional extra power line just to feed the aircon as they felt it may push demand over the 1st lines limits).

What happens if over 9.9 is used does the power trip a breaker as in Spain (you pay for the fuse rating you want to a max of about 8.8Kw for private houses. They like putting 3.3Kw in new houses which is ridiculous.

I upgraded mine from 4.4Kw ish to around 6.6Kw ish cannot remember the exact figures (units of electricity were on a higher tariff) but even that tripped when aircons and electric oven and hotplates were in full use. Real nuisance but saving electricity usage was Spain's priority, not making money charging for high use.

You should use the largest pipe possible for as far as possible (if you see what I mean) to keep the flow rate up, most taps (faucets) are 1/2" (13mm). Ensure that your pump does not draw water directly from the incoming mains, it must pull from the tank. I assume you're using a non-return valve arrangement for city water and using the pump when pressure is too low.

Thanks again.

Yes I see what you mean . The layout you describe is the system in my rental and as we live in Khon Kaen City itself. This seems the ideal system layout. Our rental rarely has water off EXCEPT for some reason mid August to October where it goes off for a few hours either daily or every other day. Many times late at night but for about 10 days separate days its off during the day and has been occasionally for up to 10 hours. WEIRD.

Thanks again Crossy. Absolutely Brilliant and very kind of you to spend so much of your time for me. I promise it will be used and will be the blue print my builder's electrician is going to be told to follow (or else ).

Kind Regards

Dave

[sanuk12345]

OK, firstly have a look here (if you've not already), many of your questions answered http://www.crossy.co.uk/wiring/index.html

My responses in RED

i) If an electrician installs two main fuse boxes do I need 2 of these (one for each box) or can one serve both? One unit can serve both boxes but consider using split-service Consumer Units (fuse boxes) as a protection against nuisance trips, see here http://www.crossy.co.uk/wiring/Consumer.html Do note that if you have multiple Consumer Units there MUST be a single switch that kills ALL power to the installation.

ii) Is 64A sufficient I have not seen any higher?

iii) Can the Amp rating be too high?

Use DIN mount ELCBs rather than Saf-T-Cut boxes in a new installation, size to suit circuits being protected

2) Even though I cannot afford to install all aircons desired immediately, I wish to prepare the wiring and conduit and fuse connections now in anticipation.

i) What cable type and Fuse amp is required for aircons several around 10000 btu or 18000 btu and one maybe 26,000 btu

ii) does EACH one need its one fuse/breaker in the main fuse box?

Use individual circuits, protect with a 20A motor-rated breaker and 2.5mm² cable for each

3) Water heaters and shower heaters

I am having a 6Kw water heater in the Kitchen for its sink taps ONLY.

i) What cable is needed and what fuse in fuse rating in main fuse box?

ii) Should it have its own single fuse?

Use an individual circuit breaker of 32A and 6mm² cable

3 separate electrical 3.5W Shower heaters in 2 bathrooms

i) What cable is needed and what fuse in fuse rating in main fuse box?

ii) Should it have its own single fuse?

Use an individual circuit breaker of 20A and 2.5mm² cable for EACH heater

Multipoint in main bathroom 8 Kw will heat bath taps and shower water.

i) What cable is needed and what fuse in fuse rating in main fuse box?

ii) Should it have its own single fuse?

Use an individual circuit breaker of 40A and 10mm² cable. If you use a 7kW heater you can use 6mm² cable and 32A breaker.

4) Kitchen

I will have an electric fan assisted Oven, overhead filter extractor and 1 electric hotplate (4 other gas). Additionally there will be a wall extractor fan

Once again

i) What cables are needed and what fuse rating in main fuse box?

ii) Should they have their own single fuse or can some be linked together on the same fuse (i.e. single hotplate, and oven)?

Use an individual circuit breaker of 32A and 6mm² cable, both the oven and hob can share the supply.

4) Water Pump and tank outside

1) Should that have its own separate fuse and circuit?

Use an individual circuit breaker, size and cable depends upon your pump rating, watch long cable runs, volt drop calculator on the crossy page

5) The house has many lights (including 8 ceiling fans with 5 light each, and 10 PIR (150W halogen outside) and a large number of twin

I count 8 ceiling fans (5 low energy bulbs each), 15 recessed energy lights, 18 ring 32w tubes, 10 PIRs, 1 Garden lamp post (4 lights) 1 twin 2 x40 W fluorescent tube and 2 single 40w tubes, 6 other low energy lights.

You can put the fans on the lighting circuits, limit to 15 fittings on each circuit, use 1.5mm² cable and a 15A breaker

70 twin (3 pin) plug outlets (mostly interior).

i) How twin plug outlets many can safely go on one circuit and fuse.

ii) How many separate circuits and main fuses in the fuse box are needed approximately

There is no legal limit, try to limit to 7 double outlets per circuit (we've split by room), 20A breaker 2.5mm² cable. Run two circuits to the kitchen.

I have seen main fuse boxes with 12, 16 or less fuses/breakers per box. My instinct is that these are way too few for my house and safety and that I need 26 plus fuses/breakers (2 main fuse boxes).

What are others opinions based on my info please?

6) ALL wiring and lights and plug outlets will be Grounded.

1) Is ONE 2 metre Ground rod adequate? I am told yes but I do not know.

No problem but look up the MEN link requirements on the crossy pages, your ground spike must be wired to the Consumer Unit where all the earths come together.

I attach house schematics. Forgive me if symbols are not standard as I am no architect and I have adjusted my architects plans.

We have a single 4kW heater for each shower / bath hot and another in the kitchen.

Investigate a solar pre-heater.

Outdoor lighting and outlets MUST be on ELCB protected circuits.

You really need to do a prospective load calculation, depending upon your location you may need to arrange a 3-phase supply for a house this size.

Thanks for the information on electrical wiring in Thailand. I would like to check whether the electrical distribution system within my condo is wired correctly. Does anybody know where I can buy a polarity tester in Bangkok ? I have tried Homepro but they have no idea what I am talking about.

Thanks!

[Crossy]

Thanks for the information on electrical wiring in Thailand. I would like to check whether the electrical distribution system within my condo is wired correctly. Does anybody know where I can buy a polarity tester in Bangkok ? I have tried Homepro but they have no idea what I am talking about.

I have some which I bought from the US and modified for 220V, unfortunately I'm not in Thailand until the end of September

If you're still in the market then, drop me a PM, this post refers http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/index.php?s=...t&p=2101131

[sanuk12345]

Thanks for the information on electrical wiring in Thailand. I would like to check whether the electrical distribution system within my condo is wired correctly. Does anybody know where I can buy a polarity tester in Bangkok ? I have tried Homepro but they have no idea what I am talking about.

I have some which I bought from the US and modified for 220V, unfortunately I'm not in Thailand until the end of September

If you're still in the market then, drop me a PM, this post refers http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/index.php?s=...t&p=2101131

Thanks for the offer Crossy. Unfortunately, I will not be in Thailand at the end of September. Do you think that I can use a simple handheld AC meter to check for proper wiring at each socket by applying the following procedure ?

1. Connect the voltage probes from meter between the hot and neutral. Check Voltage. If socket is properly wired, voltage reading between hot and neutral should be 220V.

2. Connect voltage probes from meter between hot and ground. Check Voltage. If properly socket is wired, voltage reading between hot and ground should be 220V.

3. Connect voltage probes from meter between Neutral and ground. Check Voltage. If socket is properly wired, voltage reading between neutral and ground should read 0V.

Any advice you can give would be greatly appreciated.

[longball53098]

Read Crossy's site on testing and do as he says and you will be fine.

http://www.crossy.co.uk/wiring/testing.html

[Crossy]

1. Connect the voltage probes from meter between the hot and neutral. Check Voltage. If socket is properly wired, voltage reading between hot and neutral should be 220V.

2. Connect voltage probes from meter between hot and ground. Check Voltage. If properly socket is wired, voltage reading between hot and ground should be 220V.

3. Connect voltage probes from meter between Neutral and ground. Check Voltage. If socket is properly wired, voltage reading between neutral and ground should read 0V.

That will work just fine.

Use a neon screwdriver to verify that live really is live, it's not unkown for them to get swapped at the meter

A neon screwdriver is the best 100 Baht you can spend, invaluable for checking that that wire really is dead. If you've not got one, get one today

[Bagwan]

Use a neon screwdriver to verify that live really is live, it's not unkown for them to get swapped at the meter

A neon screwdriver is the best 100 Baht you can spend, invaluable for checking that that wire really is dead. If you've not got one, get one today

Check that the neon is operative on a known live wire, just in case the neon has given up the ghost.

When building our des res I used the next wiring size up on all circuits to ensure good current flow with minimum resistance.

I have found that following advice from shop assistants, particularly at Homebase, is a recipe for disaster. One particularly persistent, even aggressive, young man trying to sell me a 9Kw heater was totally flummoxed when I asked him how many amps the heater used and why would I need all that power to heat water in Pattaya?

[sanuk12345]

1. Connect the voltage probes from meter between the hot and neutral. Check Voltage. If socket is properly wired, voltage reading between hot and neutral should be 220V.

2. Connect voltage probes from meter between hot and ground. Check Voltage. If properly socket is wired, voltage reading between hot and ground should be 220V.

3. Connect voltage probes from meter between Neutral and ground. Check Voltage. If socket is properly wired, voltage reading between neutral and ground should read 0V.

That will work just fine.

Use a neon screwdriver to verify that live really is live, it's not unkown for them to get swapped at the meter

A neon screwdriver is the best 100 Baht you can spend, invaluable for checking that that wire really is dead. If you've not got one, get one today

Crossy,

Thanks for all your advices.