Casssava Faqs--help Needed

[sok19812003]

Hi,

I am planning to plant 55hectares(1ha=6.25rai) of cassavas. I already purchased the land.

Some of the land is still virgin(with shrub). some is already cultivated with cashew.

-I am planning to plough the cultivated land in November. Is it possible? but i think it's impossible to find cassava root in november.

-And do the rest in March-April, after cleaning the shrub land.

The problem is my virgin land is gonna give very little yield during the first year coz of too much big tree root and i don't have tractor.

My questions are:

Is it possible to improve yields during my first year?

Wat kind of variety to choose for me?

Can i get some cassava root in november?

Is fertilizer will improve my yield for my shrub land?

i'll be very gratefull for Any of ur comments?

I am totally new

Best regards

[sokmeister]

Hi,

I am planning to plant 55hectares(1ha=6.25rai) of cassavas. I already purchased the land.

Some of the land is still virgin(with shrub). some is already cultivated with cashew.

-I am planning to plough the cultivated land in November. Is it possible? but i think it's impossible to find cassava root in november.

-And do the rest in March-April, after cleaning the shrub land.

The problem is my virgin land is gonna give very little yield during the first year coz of too much big tree root and i don't have tractor.

My questions are:

Is it possible to improve yields during my first year?

Wat kind of variety to choose for me?

Can i get some cassava root in november?

Is fertilizer will improve my yield for my shrub land?

i'll be very gratefull for Any of ur comments?

I am totally new

Best regards

Welcome to TV "Farming in Thailand"....although i can't answer your questions at the moment...I'm pretty sure the more experience members will jump in when they have time.

I believe one of the gurus of casava is "Khonwan", hopefully he or someone of experience will be able to help you...it takes time cus they too busy with their plantation...or if the farangs...always after a few cold ones like me...which is cool! hahahaha.

Sok

[billd766]

Khonwan is in the land of deep fried haggis for a short while but he will be looking in frequently bearing in mind the time difference.

[somo]

I recomend you read everything in Khonwan's pinned thread Pinned: Topic has attachmentsGrowing Cassava In Thailand

It will answer nearly all your questions.

As far as I know November is not a normal time of year to plant cassava unlesss you have a water supply and can irrigate.

On advice I planted this year in early June and used the Rayong72 variety

[sok19812003]

Thanks, I read all Khonwan's pinned thread. I got alot of idea of how to proceed.

There're two variety for me to choose from. KU(KM) 94 and Rayong. Don't know yet which 1 is better for my soil condition.

It's kind of sandy soil.

[somo]

As regards soil and varieties it is probably best to ask locally what is best plus buying the stems for your first planting will be easier.

[soidog2]

Hi,

I am planning to plant 55hectares(1ha=6.25rai) of cassavas. I already purchased the land.

Some of the land is still virgin(with shrub). some is already cultivated with cashew.

-I am planning to plough the cultivated land in November. Is it possible? but i think it's impossible to find cassava root in november.

-And do the rest in March-April, after cleaning the shrub land.

The problem is my virgin land is gonna give very little yield during the first year coz of too much big tree root and i don't have tractor.

My questions are:

Is it possible to improve yields during my first year?

Wat kind of variety to choose for me?

Can i get some cassava root in november?

Is fertilizer will improve my yield for my shrub land?

i'll be very gratefull for Any of ur comments?

I am totally new

Best regards

OK we start with the basics , you need cassava trees for planting, not roots.

You chop up the trees into sticks about 12" and than you stick them into the ground.

You are talking about a lot of land , the kind of trees you need depend on soil condition, water ETC

A good tree to look for is Rayong 70 ,

Finding trees is easy , what province is the land in ?

You must hire a high power tractor with a subsoiler to clear the roots and prepare the virgin land.

If the land is prone to flooding , furrows are a must as well.

Fertilizer is basically unaffordable if you want to make a profit.

Find yourself a good source for dry chicken manure ( about 15 baht per sack ), put about 50/60 sacks per rai.

Cassava loves acidy soil.

Picking trees (about 400 baht per thousand for good trees) is not easy. You need (depending on height) about 1000 trees or less per rai

They must be freshly cut, not too young or too old , not too thin and so on. Have somebody with experience with you when you buy.

To make a long story, some of the information posted on this board is not too accurate.

A good yield to look forward, 8/10 tons per rai , the price today is about 1.3 baht per kilo.

Density must also be considered, planting too close leads to smaller yield, too far , you’re wasting your land and you’ll have a hel_l of a time with the weeds.

Successful cassava farming is profitable , there is a lot of learning.

If you need specific help, feel free to ask.

Edited October 6, 2008 by soidog2

[pete_r]

Thanks, I read all Khonwan's pinned thread. I got alot of idea of how to proceed.

There're two variety for me to choose from. KU(KM) 94 and Rayong. Don't know yet which 1 is better for my soil condition.

It's kind of sandy soil.

Just curious, are you in/from Vietnam? KM94 is the name used in Northern Vietnam for the KU50 variety.

Rayong varieties are supposed to be more adapted to sandy soils.

Edited October 6, 2008 by pete_r

[Saiyan]

Fertilizer is basically unaffordable if you want to make a profit.

Are you saying that Fertiliser must not be used to make a profit? Can you elaborate please.

[Maizefarmer]

I can rent you a suitable tractor with plough/disc/subsoiler, or whatever tool you want - choice of turbo'd Ford 6610 (+/-148hp) or New Holland 8970 (+/-260hp).

The New Holland with a 6 - 8 x 130cm legs (sub-soiler) will loosen the soil nicely (and establish good drainage for the crop) down to around 80cm, and clear the land of all shrubs/roots/small & medium trees - then plough and disc over with the 6610.

[slapout]

Is rental at a non-profit rate?

[soidog2]

Fertilizer is basically unaffordable if you want to make a profit.

Are you saying that Fertiliser must not be used to make a profit? Can you elaborate please.

With most chemical fertilizes at over 1000 baht per sack ; to apply properly you need at least two or more per rai (you do the math )

The only viable choice at this time is: home made organic spray applied at least once a month when the trees get going.

[slapout]

I can rent you a suitable tractor with plough/disc/subsoiler, or whatever tool you want - choice of turbo'd Ford 6610 (+/-148hp) or New Holland 8970 (+/-260hp).

The New Holland with a 6 - 8 x 130cm legs (sub-soiler) will loosen the soil nicely (and establish good drainage for the crop) down to around 80cm, and clear the land of all shrubs/roots/small & medium trees - then plough and disc over with the 6610.

What kind of engine are you running to get those hp rating? Possibly the +- covers a rating range of which I am not aware.

[sok19812003]

Yes, Chemical Fertilizer is infeasible. But chicken manure is also maybe impossible coz of the amount needed and labor cost. (50 hectares is about 300 rai)

I ask people around they said Organic fertilizer is impossible for large land.

I am considering EM(Effective MicroOrganism). Has anyone got success with it?

[Saiyan]

With most chemical fertilizes at over 1000 baht per sack ; to apply properly you need at least two or more per rai (you do the math )

The only viable choice at this time is: home made organic spray applied at least once a month when the trees get going.

The maths is simple the alternatives were not. Thanks for the explanation. Appreciated.

[Saiyan]

The only viable choice at this time is: home made organic spray applied at least once a month when the trees get going.

What quantities of spray do you use per Rai per time and for how many months do you spray?

[soidog2]

The only viable choice at this time is: home made organic spray applied at least once a month when the trees get going.

What quantities of spray do you use per Rai per time and for how many months do you spray?

You use 4/5 backpacks ( about 7 gallons each ) per rai.

Best time to spray, early morning after rain or strong humidity. Hot sun & dry = no good

You can spray until about chest height or minimum three or four times.

To be effective, you must get your mixture right, make sure you have EM to get it started.

Ask the older people in your area, they will know the right ingredients. ( basically all the kitchen leftovers dead things ETC , smells bad, keep it covered and away from your house )

[soidog2]

What quantities of spray do you use per Rai per time and for how many months do you spray?[/size][/font]

Please note ; the 7 gallon figure is wrong, regular backpack = 16 liters motorized backpack = 25 liters ( 4.227 gallons & 6.604 gallons )

Edited October 7, 2008 by soidog2

[Saiyan]

You use 4/5 backpacks ( about 7 gallons each ) per rai.

Best time to spray, early morning after rain or strong humidity. Hot sun & dry = no good

You can spray until about chest height or minimum three or four times.

To be effective, you must get your mixture right, make sure you have EM to get it started.

Ask the older people in your area, they will know the right ingredients. ( basically all the kitchen leftovers dead things ETC , smells bad, keep it covered and away from your house )

Thanks siodog2.for the info. The quantities required for the cassava was what I needed to work out and be prepared for. We have made some fertilizer in a 20 lt bucket, but we have yet to see the end result. Presently our cassava is quite large (about 10 months old) and was treated with the chemical fertilizer, but it was cheaper than B1000.00 at the time. Depending on the yield and the price we get, we should still make a profit.

[soidog2]

Thanks siodog2.for the info. The quantities required for the cassava was what I needed to work out and be prepared for. We have made some fertilizer in a 20 lt bucket, but we have yet to see the end result. Presently our cassava is quite large (about 10 months old) and was treated with the chemical fertilizer, but it was cheaper than B1000.00 at the time. Depending on the yield and the price we get, we should still make a profit.

Good luck, we average about 30% NET profit .

[Maizefarmer]

Slapout - both use the same turbo’d 6 pot, 4valve 7,5litre Genesis engine - the fuel pumps are different. That’s the main difference. There are some other diff’s like the 89 has a larger turbo and an intecooler, but it’s primarily about fueling (larger fuel pump and higher flow rate in the 89).... and the 2 smaller models in the series (the 8690 and 8790) share a 2 valve version of the Genesis block.

In standard form the 89 comes off the production line rated for around 240hp (again, output varies a little depending on the market the 89 is manufactured for). The output can be raised to 260hp by changing the fuel settings and increasing the boost – but no parts need changing.

I have on my 88 an 89 turbo, intercooler and fuel pump – setup as a 8970 for 260hp. Reliability? – 100%. Actually, it’s more a project about torque than it is about hp. Hp goes up around 20 odd%, but the torque goes up over 30%.

The 6610 is a different story – as well as changing the fuel pump, the block needs to be rebuilt – liners have to be changed, turbo has to be added ( a 7610 turbo will do, but there are better choices), compression has to be raised, and a bunch of other things. It’s not as straightforward.

Nope – it will a commercial rate.

[Maizefarmer]

Slapout - opening sentance above should have included the words:

".... the 8870 and 8970 use the same turbo'd ..... blah blah, blah blah"

[sokmeister]

man...theres more here than just "farming in thailand" bunch-o-hicks, beer, and HP.....ahahahahahah....my crowd...

isn't compression inherent(sp) in regards to turbo chargin? gots to raise them octane!

hahaha..sorry, i'm nursing a cold one and trying to sleep, n listening to Allen Jackson "it's 5 o'clock somewhere"

Sok

[slapout]

Sok; man after my own heart, I have so many questions on a 6610 rated to 148+-_ hp (pto, draw bar, etc) but then again those tractor pull fellows can do wonders with beefing up a engine. Problem comes when you try to use additional hp to pull the sled (implement) with the factory machine, tires,weight etc.

[Maizefarmer]

Go on then - whats the questions????

Its a lot of work and I only undertook the 6610 project because it seemed like a fun project, and Thailand been what it is (from a tractor avalibility point of view), it was a practical option at the time. In Europe or State side you'd go looking for a higher output standard tractor.

The 7610 is effectively a standard 6610 with a turbo on it - other than for that and the fuel settings the standard 6610 and 7610 are the same machines with the same mechanics. My 6610 could be called a 7610 on steriods. I beleive the drivetrain and transmission on both the 6610 and 7610 is good for 185hp plus.

Tractor pulling!!!!!!!!! - yer they do produce some power don;t they, but just kep in mind: those engines are not running at 2000 - 3000rpm - they turn them over at 2 x or even 3 x that speed - and as such used as a working tractor on/for the farm, never mind the fact that you'd wouldn't be able to change gears, or the fact that you;d have to have a gas station follow you around - note: pulling tractors run in one gear only - they are absolutely useless: you'd be rebuilding the engine block 20 to 50 working hours such is the rate of wear & tear.

Compression increase : as in boost? - yes, but not as in comp ratio (which would lead to early ignition - too early!)

[JungleBiker]

I can rent you a suitable tractor with plough/disc/subsoiler, or whatever tool you want - choice of turbo'd Ford 6610 (+/-148hp) or New Holland 8970 (+/-260hp).

The New Holland with a 6 - 8 x 130cm legs (sub-soiler) will loosen the soil nicely (and establish good drainage for the crop) down to around 80cm, and clear the land of all shrubs/roots/small & medium trees - then plough and disc over with the 6610.

Hi MF,

So what would it cost to rent your New Holland with sub soiler (assuming you include the sub soiler?)? Any additional info on work rates and operating costs would also be welcome. Thanks.

JB

[Maizefarmer]

Sorry JB - I missed this one (I don't always read the threads on subjects I don't think I have have anything to ad too):

As indicated in your PM to me, generally getting a tractor into PDR is much the same as a local car - just drive it over - so thats not a problem. But it will have to be with my driver - cant let the tractor go into Lao with someone I don't know.

Cost? - how many rai has to be prepeared and do you know when it would be needed? - then there are things like accomodation/food and access to clean fuel ("at cost" points which we can deal with later).

[JungleBiker]

Sorry JB - I missed this one (I don't always read the threads on subjects I don't think I have have anything to ad too):

As indicated in your PM to me, generally getting a tractor into PDR is much the same as a local car - just drive it over - so thats not a problem. But it will have to be with my driver - cant let the tractor go into Lao with someone I don't know.

Cost? - how many rai has to be prepeared and do you know when it would be needed? - then there are things like accomodation/food and access to clean fuel ("at cost" points which we can deal with later).

Hi MF,

Not sure yet how many rai/hectares. Also do not know about the timing - there is much to be done before we get to potential implementation stage. I would guess land preparation would have to be done before the start of the rainy season in 2009. Not sure if the sub-soiling work can be done during the dry season (i.e. would the ground be too hard?). This is just a budgeting exercise first, so approximate numbers would be welcome. I reckon it would be safe to assume a minimum of at least 100 hectares (625 rai). About the driver going with the tractor - that would good for us too - better to have a driver who knows and cares about the machine, etc.

I hope nobody minds us discussing this on the forum, but I think others may be interested in the info too. If anyone objects, we can move to PM.

Best regards,

JB.

[Maizefarmer]

100hctares !! - thats a lot of subsoiling - a good few weeks work. I'll have to do some figure work - of the top of my head there won;t be much change from Baht 250K or so - so use that as a starting figure. Its defineatly a big tractor job - you won't be able to do it with a 66/7610 type.

Best if the soil has some moisture in it when done.

[slapout]

Is the sub soiler what I am thinking of? It was developed several decades ago to cut deep (2 to 3 foot)with various spacing, usually 4 foot. The shoe (underground) was about 6 inches wide by 1 1/2 foot long. Just wondering as I had not heard the term sub soiler in a while.