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Chain Keeps Falling Off


mazd2

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Gary A, its possible that the chain was lubed with wrong oil. Have to remember that the next time down in the garage with it and see what they try to put on it.

It's also an uncovered chain and I'm sure lots of dirt and muddy water got in there since I started riding the bike. I hit lots of muddy ponds of water, some were deeper than the wheel radius which would have totally immersed the chain, and with the wrong oil, this might have caused it also. Just bad care.

By new rig I meant new chain and sprockets.

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Sounds like a troll to me too or else a complete f*ckwit (in which case I apologise).

BTW Mazd2, you have been asked a couple of times what bike you are having these probs with and have not told - why not. No need to be ashamed because as you know, us guys who ride bikes don't have predudice or "size envy" and we might even be able to help you more if you share the make and model with us..........

Cheers,

Pikey.

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Sounds like a troll to me too or else a complete f*ckwit (in which case I apologise).

BTW Mazd2, you have been asked a couple of times what bike you are having these probs with and have not told - why not. No need to be ashamed because as you know, us guys who ride bikes don't have predudice or "size envy" and we might even be able to help you more if you share the make and model with us..........

Cheers,

Pikey.

I've already given enough details about the bike. Do you think I wouldn't have given the model if I thought it was going to make a difference?

Your just as big a meathead as some of the other <deleted> and timewasters who've replied to this thread.

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Hi :o

if your chain lengthens that much that you have to remove individual chinks from it (shouldn't that be "links"??) me thinks it's not the chain that's at fault, but rather the chain tensioner. Maybe the thread is worn down and, under load, the rear wheel is pulled towards the front? Because, honestly, in 41,000 kilometers on my RXZ here in Bangkok i been through 4 chain/sprocket sets, but never even reached the end of the tensioners yet.

I ride about 50% of my kilometers with passenger, which of course puts extra load on the chain and i myself am no flyweight either (90+ kilos).

I can recommend you to have the chain AND BOTH SPROCKETS replaced at the earliest convenience, and indeed do NOT go for "cheapest" but ask for D.I.D. which is decent quality Japanese stuff. Cost more, yes, and not available everywhere, but they DO last a lot longer. If you can't get hold of D.I.D. go for "Asahi" (yes, same as the beer) which is also Japanese and of similar quality. Currently i run Asahi on both my bikes and am completely happy - there was some lengthening during the first few hundred kilometers, i have re-tensioned it then and since then another almost 1,000 kilometers later, it is still like on that day, no further tensioning needed.

Oh, and once a week i spray the chain from both sides (!) with "Kemex" chain lube, during the rainy season i do this twice a week as i ride the bike every day, some 300-400 kilometers per week.

Regarding change interval - you should always replace the complete set at once, i.e. chain and both sprockets together. Everything else is nonsense - a worn chain will quickly wear a new sprocket and a worn sprocket will quickly wear a new chain as those two will always try to adapt to each other. Hence change them together and they will be equal from start to, well, finish. Usually a change is due latest when you are at the end of the tensioners, i.e. further tensioning is no longer possible. But it could well be earlier - when the sprocket's teeth become pointed or bent, or when you can move the chain "chinks" against the teeth while they are on the sprocket. Driving with such a chain wastes energy - the bike does get slower, loses power, needs more fuel.

Best regards.....

Thanh

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......... NEW JAP CHAIN & have it fitted and tensioned correctly. ....

i have heard that o-ring chains, when u have used wrong, totally wrong

oil, get worn quickly, so after the chain gets hot, it will have ''own life''...

BE CAREFULL THERE, NO MORE FARANG LOSSES B'CAUSE SAVED 30 BAHT AT TESCO.....

That's very true. Some chain lubricants contain a powerful solvent to eat through the crud and allow the lubricant to get into the roller and pins. The solvent evaporates and the grease that was mixed with the solvent remains. It works pretty well unless you use it on an "O" ring chain. The solvent destroys the rubber "O" rings and shortens the chain life considerably.

Do you have any info on what not to use on O ring chains, are you saying that some mcycle chain lubes are harmfull to the O rings ? which ones ?.

Cheers

HH

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Sounds like a troll to me too or else a complete f*ckwit (in which case I apologise).

BTW Mazd2, you have been asked a couple of times what bike you are having these probs with and have not told - why not. No need to be ashamed because as you know, us guys who ride bikes don't have predudice or "size envy" and we might even be able to help you more if you share the make and model with us..........

Cheers,

Pikey.

I've already given enough details about the bike. Do you think I wouldn't have given the model if I thought it was going to make a difference?

Your just as big a meathead as some of the other <deleted> and timewasters who've replied to this thread.

Really mate.. you need to reel that neck in a bit.. Pikeys one of the most helpful bods out there, on the forum and where it counts out in the real world, he makes a constructive post saying that a bit more info might actually help in solving the problem and for that you call him a meathead ??

I havent joined in taking the piss out of you or any other criticism, so you cant put this down to anything other than your own actions / reactions. Reread it and think if thats really the reply you meant.

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Thanks LivinLOS :o

All I can say to Mazd2 is if he wants a proper opinion, bring the bike to my shop - Tony's Big Bikes, Chiang Mai. But be prepared for a very heavy smack in the mouth at the same time! (really - <deleted>!)

Cheers,

Pikey.

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Quote:     Moving on, what liquids or greases destroy the O rings in a high quality chain?

The safest course is to use only chain lubes which are clearly marked  " Suitable for use on 'O' ring' or 'X' ring chains.  However some people do not like to use these sticky type of sprays.

Engine oil or WD 40 type lubricants should be OK, it is the more agressive solvents in some lubes that can attack the rubber 'O' rings.

There are many threads on the web and camps are divided on what lube type or system is best. 

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If I had a high quality "O" ring chain I would not use aerosol lubricants. Gear oil or heavy duty high viscosity sticky lubricants are safer. I used to use STP when I was in the US. That's the heavy stringy stuff that was difficult to get off of your fingers.

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Sounds like a troll to me too or else a complete f*ckwit (in which case I apologise).

BTW Mazd2, you have been asked a couple of times what bike you are having these probs with and have not told - why not. No need to be ashamed because as you know, us guys who ride bikes don't have predudice or "size envy" and we might even be able to help you more if you share the make and model with us..........

Cheers,

Pikey.

I've already given enough details about the bike. Do you think I wouldn't have given the model if I thought it was going to make a difference?

Your just as big a meathead as some of the other <deleted> and timewasters who've replied to this thread.

Really mate.. you need to reel that neck in a bit.. Pikeys one of the most helpful bods out there, on the forum and where it counts out in the real world, he makes a constructive post saying that a bit more info might actually help in solving the problem and for that you call him a meathead ??

I havent joined in taking the piss out of you or any other criticism, so you cant put this down to anything other than your own actions / reactions. Reread it and think if thats really the reply you meant.

Have a read of the first sentence above. He's the one slinging shit.

You go calling someone a fuc_kwit and whatever other names, what do you expect in return? Seriously??

I come on here and ask for some information (which is what these forums are all about, exchanging information/knowledge) and get called an idiot/fuc_kwit/you name it.

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Regarding change interval - you should always replace the complete set at once, i.e. chain and both sprockets together. Everything else is nonsense - a worn chain will quickly wear a new sprocket and a worn sprocket will quickly wear a new chain as those two will always try to adapt to each other. Hence change them together and they will be equal from start to, well, finish. Usually a change is due latest when you are at the end of the tensioners, i.e. further tensioning is no longer possible. But it could well be earlier - when the sprocket's teeth become pointed or bent, or when you can move the chain "chinks" against the teeth while they are on the sprocket. Driving with such a chain wastes energy - the bike does get slower, loses power, needs more fuel.

Thahn, EXCELLENT POST mate. Great advice.

Mazd2, the reason why some of these blokes want to know what bike you are riding is because there is alot of experience in here and some of us might know about chain adjustment of your model and or any other related problems with it.

Anyway, its all up to you....YOU've got the advice, I hope you deal with it before someone gets killed or injured.

Peaceblondie, Can you take care of this.....its almost like its never going to end.....the OP's question has been answered but hes not that interested in it, he is now more interested in engaging the negative answers.

Hey Pikey, if I drop in for a chain adjustment.....I hope you don't give me the added service of a smack in the jaws :o

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