Thai Food From "heaven" At Talat San Pa Khoi

[orang37]

Sawasdee Khrup, TV Friends,

My human often starts chuckling when he hears people talk about the great Thai food they had in some restaurant because he knows there is no equal to the fresh home-made on offer at Chiang Mai's markets like Thannin and San Pa Khoi. And there are many dishes at these markets we've never seen in any Thai restaurant inside our outside Thailand.

Up until this year, we never thought we'd see Thai food equal in quality to the home-made we used to buy at Talat Thannin (off Thanon Chotana), and, although our human's radiation-whacked-out taste-buds can't really tell much about food's taste anymore (by taste : his sense of smell is remarkable, and smell alone can "evoke" vivid "food memories") ...

We can clearly see that Khun Leilai at Talat San Pa Khoi has achieved the kind of diversity and quality to create an alternative to Thannin east of the Ping, nearer the river. Our favorite is the egg-plant (which she'll prepare special for us with very little kapow and no chili, if asked in advance).

The last few months, with a new chef who, we believe, is cooking almost everything right there, she's added more and more dishes that really look beautiful, and smell beautiful, and, while we can't eat them because we can't swallow anything but mushy-softy, at least we will have the pleasure of informing you about her banquet of delights. As you probably know this is all "take out," not a restaurant.

The name of her "stand" or area inside the market is "Lan Samee;" her name is Khun Leilai, and she is most definitely a matriarch with a heart of gold, with a certain fierceness about her visage (to my human's eyes) that suggests she never takes crap off any human, male, female, or whatever.

By around 2:30 Pm each day, she'll have the full range of what she offers out on display, and, like others who sell fresh-made, she's done by about 7:30-8PM, with the really busy period being around 5PM to 6:30PM. We'd guess there at least twenty types of Thai dishes on offer, and also things like tuptim fish braised in ginger, and crab rolls, and, of course, what's on offer varies.

To get to Talat San Pak Khoi

1. cross the main bridge (Nakhorn Ping) heading east : onto Thaon Charoen Muang : continue on straight after crossing the bridge, past the red light on the east side of the Ping.

2. the third possible right turn you could make is at a red light : there's a Khrung Si bank on the corner to your right. this is Bum Rung Rat road.

3. make a right turn onto Bum Rung Rat and drive down to make the first possible left turn which is only about 60=70 meters away.

4. you are now on Thanon Sai Thong, and Talat San Pak Hoi is on your left. Parking your car may be difficult depending on time of day. There is a place you can park for 10 baht near where they have a Muay Thai boxing arena, make the first possible right into a driveway as you travel down Thanon Sai Thong and you may find it.

5. if you walk into the market so you are heading north, as if you were walking back to Thanon Charoen Muang, you'll come across an area toward the back where the fresh food vendors are.

Don't know if this market's on Nancy Chandler's map or not; we suspect it is.

Ask anyone "Lan Samee yu nai ?"

Enjoy !

~o37;

Edited December 22, 2009 by orang37

[rohitsuk]

Oh yes indeedee Orang37 is spot on. San Pa Khoi market is like the Treasure Island of Thai food in CM. We do all of our fresh produce shopping there, as well as often buying the take-away cooked delights and the odd bowl of eat in noodles. Don't miss the Hor Muk at Baht 25 cooked in banana leaves it is just fabulous.

The fruit and veg is often half the price of the supermarkets and as fresh as the morning dew, including some nice surprises like beetroot, courgettes and champignon mushrooms, just back in season. I have my favourite ladies from whom I usually buy and I am jealously guarded by them from the temptations of the competitors so that if dozy old Grandpa has gone alone and overloaded on the goodies, they help the poor old boy carry the stuff back to the car. Now is that service or what ?

It's not just cheaper, fresher, better and more delicious at Talad San Pa Khoi it's a lot more fun than shopping at most other places as there is usually some giggle or other doing the rounds.

So you chaps just pop on over there and see if Orang37 and me aren't right, you'll be awfully glad you did. It's not just food shopping, it's entertainment !

Edited December 22, 2009 by rohitsuk

[orang37]

.... snip ... San Pa Khoi market is like the Treasure Island of Thai food in CM. We do all of our fresh produce shopping there, as well as often buying the take-away cooked delights and the odd bowl of eat in noodles. Don't miss the Hor Muk at Baht 25 cooked in banana leaves it is just fabulous ... snip ...

Sawasdee Khrup, Khun Rohitsuk,

Delighted to hear you have taste buds that work, and appreciate Talat San Pa Khoi !

We have to admit we still think Thannin has the most variety (I'd estimate at least twice the number of types of food and dishes on offer than San Pa Khoi). There was one family at Thannin about six years ago that we got to know very well; we remain convinced the matriarch and her extended family's food was the greatest Thai food we ever had in our lives (and my human used to be 'nuts' about Thai food : it was one of the reasons he moved here). Unfortunately the matriarch died, and the family discontinued their stand.

Any time we have guests from outside Thailand, or farangs living in Thailand, but not from Chiang Mai, we always take them to Thannin around 3-4PM (before the big evening rush) to feel the wonderful ambience of the combination of food, the people, the socializing that's going on. To see, to smell, to taste. It's always been a highlight of their visit, my friends tell me later.

San Pa Khoi is a smaller, quieter venue (except for maybe 6-7PM when buy take-out for dinner rush is on): my favorite time there so far was when the travelling Chinese Opera group came through (all Thai cast; they sang in Chinese one night, Thai the next).

Many of you probably know Talat Nong Hoi, south on the old Chiang Mai Lamphun Highway, past the turn-off to the Gymkhana Club; we've never really "vibed" with that one. Dreadful soy milk vendor.

Talat Tonpayom going west on Thanon Suthep, towards Doi Suthep, about 1 kilometer past Nimmanheiman Road, just before the intersection with Thanon Chonlaprathan (the canal road) is another great local market of Chiang Mai. Great fresh-made orange juice. Used to get fried chicken there many years ago that was supreme. It's small and friendly. Selection of fresh-made complete Thai dishes quite limited compared to San Pa Khoi or Thannin, but sometimes have hill-tribe ladies selling fresh-gathered mushrooms and fungi that are sensational to lightly stir-fry (if you have taste buds, that is).

regards, ~o:37;